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^.y i THE
COOK'S ORACLE;
CONTAINING
RECEIPTS FOR PLAIN COOKERY
ON THE
MOST ECONOMICAL PLAN FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES
ALSO
THE ART OF COMPOSING THE MOST SIMPLE, AND
MOST HIGHLY FINISHED
iBrotfis, CSftabies, Soups, gbaiues, Sbtore fauces,
AND FLAVOURING ESSENCES:
The Quantity of each Article is
ACCURATELY STATED BY WEIGHT AND MEASURE;
THE WHOLE BEING THE RESULT OF
virtual €}:pmmmt^
INSTITUTED IN
THE KITCHEN OF A PHYSICIAN.
Miscuit Utile dulci/'
Sfie iF^urtS Litton,
TO WHICH ARE ADDED,
ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY NEW RECEIPTS,
FOR
PASTRY, PRESERVES, PUDDINGS,
AND
An Easy, Certain, and Econotnical Process for preparmg
PICKLES,
By which they will be ready in a Fortnight, and remain good for Years.
THE WHOLE REVISED BY THE AUTHOR OF
THE ART OF INVIGORATING LIFE BY FOOD, &c.
LONDON :
PRINTED FOR A. CONSTABLE & Co. EDINBURGH;
AND HURST, ROBINSON, & Co. CHEAPSIDE.
And sold also by all Booksellers in Town and Country,
1822.
THE NEW
YORK
puBir- M-
RARY
- /7^^37
-^
r ■
AND
T-
. .GNS.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY J. MOYt>i, CREVILLE STREET.
CONTENTS.
Page
Preface •• * v
Introduction «-...^ .... ....-*. i
Culinary Curiosities • • 33
Invitations to Dinner 38
Carving • • • • • • 49
Friendly Advice to Cooks • • - 54
Table of Weights, &c. • - 83
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
Chapter 1. Boiling .-...•. 85
Baking 92
2. Roasting 95
3. Frying • • * 104
4. Broiling 107
5. Vegetables • 109
6. Fish 113
7. Broths and Soup 117
8. Gravies and Sauces* 133
9. Made Dishes 141
Receipts 143
Marketing Tables • 463
APPENDIX.
Pastry, Confectionary, Preserves, &c.' . . -- * 469
Bread, &c. 508
Observations on Puddings and Pies oil
Pickles ►. . . - 520
Index 527
THE ART
OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING
LIFE,
BY
FOOD, CLOTHES, AIR, EXERCISE, WINE, SLEEP, &t.
AND
PEPTIC PRECEPTS,
POINTING OUT
AGREEABLE AND EFFECTUAL METHODS
TO PREVENT AND RELIEVE
INDIGESTION,
AND TO
REGULATE AND STRENGTHEN THE ACTION
OP THE
STOMACH AND BOWELS.
Suaviter in modo, fortiter in re.
TO WHICH IS ADDED,
THE PLEASURE OF MAKING A WILL.
Finis coronat opae.
BY
THE AUTHOR OF '' THE COOK'S ORACLE,
4-C. 4;C. 4-C.
THIRD EDITION, ENLARGED.
LONDON :
PRINTED rOR HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO.
AND A. CONSTABLE AND CO. EDINBURGU.
1822.
PREFACE
TO
THE THIRD EDITION.
Among the multitude of causes which concur to
impair Health, and produce Disease, the most
general is the improper quality of our Food :
this, most frequently, arises from the injudicious
manner in which it is prepared; — yet, strange,
" passing strange," this, is the only one, for which
a remedy has not been sought; — and few persons
bestow half so much attention on the preservation
of their own Health, — as they daily devote to
that of their Dogs and Horses.
The observations of the Guardians of Health
respecting Regimen, &c. have formed no more
than a Catalogue of those articles of Food, which
they have considered most proper for particular
Constitutions.
Some Medical writers, have " in good set terms"
warned us against the pernicious effects of im-
a3
VI PREFACE.
proper Diet; but — not One, has been so kind,
as to take the trouble to direct us how to pre-
pare Food properly.
The Editor, has endeavoured to write the fol-
lowing Receipts so plainly, that they may be as
easily understood in the Kitchen as He trusts they
will be relished in the Dining Room — and has
been more ambitious to present to the Public, a
Work which will contribute to the daily Comfort
of All — than to seem elaborately Scientific.
The practical part of the philosophy of the
Kitchen, is certainly not the most agreeable ; —
Gastrology has to contend witli its full share of
those great impediments to all great improve-
ments in scientific pursuits, — the prejudices of
the Ignorant, — and the misrepresentations of
the Envious
The Sagacity to comprehend and estimate the
importance of uncontemplated improvement — is
confined to the very few, on whom Nature has
bestowed a sufficient degree of perfection of the
Sense which is to measure it; — the candour to
make a fair report of it is still more uncommon, —
and the kindness to encourage it — cannot often be
expected from those, whose most vital interest it
is, to prevent the developement of that, by which.
PREFACE. VU
their own importance — perhaps their only means
of Existence — maybe forever eclipsed — so as
Pope says —
" All fear, — None aid you,— and Few understand."
Improvements in Agriculture and the Breed of
Cattle have been encouraged by Premiums ; —
(see Note under (No. 19.) and under (No. 59.)
Those who have obtained them, have been hailed
as benefactors to Society, — but the Art q/' making
use of these means of ameliorating Life, and
supporting a healthy Existence — Cookery, has
been neglected.
While the cultivators of the raw materials are
distinguished and rewarded, — the attempt to
improve the processes, without which, neither
Vegetable nor Animal substances are fit for the
food of Man (astonishing to say), has been
ridiculed, — as unworthy the attention of arational
Being ! ! !
This most useful* Art, — which the Editor has
chosen to endeavour to illustrate, because nobody
else has — and because he knew not how he could
employ some leisure hours more beneficially
* " The only test of the utility of Knowledge, is its promoting the
happiness of mankind." — Dr. Stark on Diet, p. 90.
Vlll PREFACE.
for Mankind, — than to teach them to combine the
" ntiW with the *' duke/' and to increase their
pleasures, without impairing their Health or im-
poverishing their Fortune — has been for many
Years his favorite employment, and *' The Art
OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING LiFE* BY
DiET AND Regimen,"&c. and this Work, — have
insensibly become repositories, for whatever Ob-
servations he has made, which he thought would
make us — Live happy, and Live long.
The Editor has considered the Art of
Cookery, not merely as a mechanical operation,
fit only for working Cooks — but as the Analeptic
part of the Art of Phi/sic,
" How best the fickle fabric to support
" Of mortal man, — in healthful body how
*' A healthful mind, the longest to maintain,'""
Armstrong.
is an Occupation — neither unbecoming nor un-
worthy. Philosophers of the highest class : — such
only, can comprehend its Importance, — which
amounts to no less, than not only the enjoyment
of the present moment, but the more precious
* A new Edition of this Is just published, by Hurst, Robinson,
and Co. Cheapside, and A. Constable and Co. Edinburgh.
PREFACE. IX
advantage, of improving and preserving Health,
and prolonging Life — which depend on duly
replenishing the daily waste of the human frame
with materials which are pregnant with Nutri-
ment, and easy of Digestion.
If Medicine be ranked among those Arts which
dignify their Professors — Cookery may lay claim
to an equal, if not a superior distinction ; — to
prevent Diseases, — is surely a more advantageous
Art to Mankind, than to cure them. " Physi-
cians should be good Cooks, at least in Theory." —
Dr. Mandeville on Hypochondriasis, p. 316.
The learned Dr. Arbuthnot observes in page 3
of the preface to his Essay on ylliment, that *' the
choice and measure of the materials of which our
Body is composed, and what we take daily by
Pounds, is at least of as much importance, as
what we take seldom, and only by grains and
spoonsful."
Those in whom the Organ of Taste is obtuse, —
or who have been brought up in the happy habit
of being content with humble fare, — whose Health
is so firm, that it needs no artificial adjustment ;
who with the appetite of a Cormorant, have the
digestion of an Ostrich, — and eagerly devour
whatever is set before them, without asking any
X PREFACE.
questions about what it is, or how it has been
prepared — may perhaps imagine that the Editor
has sometimes been rather overmuch refining the
business of the Kitchen.
" Where Ignorance is bliss, — 'tis Folly to be wise."
But, few are «o fortunate, as to be trained up to
understand how well it is worth their while to
cultivate sutli habits of Spartan forbearance, — we
cannot perform our duty in registering wholesome
precepts, in a higher degree — than by disarming
Luxury of its sting — and making the refinements
of Modern Cookery, minister not merely to sen-
sual gratification, — but at the same time suppoit
the substantial excitement of '* mens sana, in
corpore sano."
The Delicate and the Nervous, who have un-
fortunately a sensitive palate, and have been
accustomed to a luxurious variety of savoury
Sauces, and highly seasoned Viands — Those
who from the infirmity of age are become inca-
pable of correcting habits, created by absurd
indulgence in Youth, are entitled to some con-
sideration — and for their sake, — the Elements
of Opsology are explained in the most intelligible
manner.
PREFACE. XI
By reducing Culinary operations to something
like a certainty, an Invalid will be less indebted
to chance, or the caprice of careless attendants,
&c. whether he shall recover — and Live long,
and comfortably — or speedily — Die of Starva-
tion in the midst of Plenty.
These Rules and orders for the regulation of the
business of the Kitchen, have been extremely be-
neficial to the Editor's own Health and Comfort. —
He hopes they will be equally so to others, —
they will help those who enjoy Health, to preserve
it — teach those who have delicate and irritable
Stomachs, how to keep them in good temper —
and with a little discretion enable them to indulge
occasionally, not only with impunity, but with
advantage, in all those alimentary pleasures which
a rational Epicure* can desire.
There is no Question more frequently asked —
or which a Medical man finds more difficulty in
answering to the satisfaction of himself and his
Patient, than — If hat do you wish me to eat ?
The most judicious choice of Aliment will avail
nothing, unless the Culinary preparation of it be
* For the Editor's definition of this terra, see the note in page 5
of the following Introduction.
XU PREFAdE.
equally judicious. — How often is the skill of a
pains-taking Physician counteracted by want of
corresponding attention to the preparation of
Food — and the poor Patient, instead of deriving
Nourishment — is distressed by Indigestion.
Parmentier, in his Code Pharmaceutique, has
given a chapter on the preparation of Food —
some of the following Receipts, are offered as an
humble attempt to form a sort of Appendix
TO THE Pharmacopceia — like pharmaceutic
pre.scriptions they are precisely adjusted by weight
and measure, — and in future, by ordering such
Receipts of the Cook's Oracle as appearadapted
to the case — the recovery of the patient and the
credit of the Physician, as far as relates to the
administration of Aliment, — need no longer —
depend on the discretion of the Cook. — For in-
stance : Mutton Broth, (No. 490 or 564) ; Toast and
Water, (No. 463) ; Water Grml, (No. 572) ; Beef
Tea, (No. 563) ; and Portable Soup, (No. 252).
This concentrated Essence of Meat — will be found
a great acquisition to the comfort of the Army —
the Navy — the Traveller — and the Invalid — by
dissolving half an ounce of it in half a pint of
hot water, you have in a few minutes, half a Pint
of good Broth for three halfpence.
PREFACE. XIU
He has also circumstantially detailed, the
easiest, least expensive, and most salubrious
methods of preparing those highly finished Soups
—Sauces — Ragouts — and piquante relishes, which
the most ingenious " Officers of the Mouth,"
have invented for the amusement of thorough
bred " Grands Gourmands''
It has been his Aim, — to render Food accept-
able to the Palate, v^^ithout being expensive to the
P.urse, or. offensive to the Stomach — nourishing
without being inflammatory, and savoury without
being surfeiting, — constantly endeavouring to
hold the balance even, between the agreeable and
the wholesome — the Epicure and the Economist.
In this Third Edition, which is almost entirely
re-written, — He has not printed one Receipt — that
has not been proved in His own Kitchen — which
has not been approved by several of the most
accomplished Cooks in this Kingdom — and has
moreover, been eaten with unanimous applause
by a Committee of Taste, composed of some of the
most illustrious Gastropholists of this luxurious
Metropolis.
The Editor h^^ beeo materially assisted ly
Mr. Henry Osborj^e, the excellent Cook to
the late Sir Joseph Banks: — that woithy
XIV PREFACE.
President of the Royal Society, was so sensible
of the importance of the subject the Editor was
investigating — that He sent his Cook to assist
him in his arduous task — and many of the
Receipts in this Third Edition, are much improved
by his suggestions and corrections. See (No.
560.)
This is the only English Cookery Book which
has been written from the Real Experiments of
a Housekeeper, for the benefit of House-
keepers,— which the reader will soon perceive,
by the minute attention that has been employed
to elucidate and improve the Art of Plain
Cookery, — detailing many particulars and pre-
cautions, which may at first appear frivolous —
but which experience will prove to be essential —
to teach a common Cook how to provide, and to
prepare common Food — so frugally, and so per-
fectly, that the plain Family Fare of the most
Economical Housekeeper, may with scarcely
any additional trouble — be a satisfactory Enter-
tainment for an Epicure or an Invalid.
To facilitate which. He has at the end of his
work given Marketing Tables, showing the
tine of the year, when the several kinds of Fish
' — Poultry — and Vegetables — are Cheapest.
PREFACE. XV
By an attentive consideration of " the
Rudiments of Cookery," and the respective
Receipts — the vaost ignorant Novice in the business
of the Kitchen — may work with the utmost
facility and certainty of success, — and soon
become a Good Cook.
Will all the other Books of Cookery that ever
were printed do this ? — To give his readers an
opportunity of applying the test of comparison,
he has given a list of upwards of Two Hundred
Cookery Books, (see page 24) — which he pa-
tiently pioneered through, before he set about re-
cording these results of his own Experiments ! ! !
Store Sauces and many articles of Domestic
Comfort, which are extravagantly expensive to
purchase, and can very seldom be procured
genuine — He has given plain directions how to
prepare at Home — of infinitely finer flavour, and
considerably cheaper than they can be obtained
ready-made : — for example.
Mushroom Catsup, (No. 439.)
Essence of Celery, (No. 409.)
Anchovy, (No. 433.)
■ Sweet Herbs, (No. 417.)
-~ Lemon Peel, (No. 408.)
XVI PREFACE.
Essence of Savoury Spice, (No. 421, and 457,
4:39, 460.)
Ginger, (No. 411.)
Cayenne Pepper, (No. 404.)
Curry Powder, (No. 456.)
EsHALLOT Wine, (No. 402.)
Portable Soup, (No. 252.)
Pickles, &c., &c., &c., and see page 119.
Thus, the table of the most economical Family
may, by the help of this Book — be served with
as much delicacy and salubrity, as that of a
Sovereign Prince.
PREFACE
TO
THE FOURTH EDITION.
lo this Fourth Edition are added One Hun-
dred and Thirty New Receipts, which will greatly
improve the Comfort and Economy of all, es-
pecially of Catholic Families; — being the
best methods of making:
Omelettes,
Puddings,
Maigre and Savoury Pasties,
Maigre and Savoury Patties,
Preserves,
Tarts,
Cakes,
and the general business of
The Pastry Cook and the Baker.
Also an easy and economical Process for preparing
Pickles ;
by which they will be ready in a fortnight, and
remain good for Years.
XVllI PREFACE.
The Editor hopes that in these New Receipts,
the quantities of the various articles, and the
processes for compounding them, are described
so accurately and so plainly, — that the most
inexperienced person may work from them : but
he does not vouch for all those new Receipts, —
as some of them have not yet been proved in his
own kitchen.
INTRODUCTION,
The following Receipts are not a mere marrowless
collection of shreds, and patches, and cuttings, and
pastings ; — but a boftdfide register of Practical Facts, —
accumulated by a perseverance not to be subdued, or
evaporated, by the igniferous terrors of a Roasting
Fire in the Dog-days, — in defiance of the odoriferous
and califacient repellents, of Roasting, — Boiling, —
Frying, — and Broiling: — moreover, the author has
submitted to a labour no preceding Cookery-Book-
maker, perhaps, ever attempted to encounter — having
eaten each Receipt, before he set it down in his book.
They have all been heartily welcomed by a suffi-
ciently well educated Palate, and a rather fastidious
Stomach ; — perhaps this certificate of the reception of
the respective preparations — will partly apologize for
the Book containing a smaller number of them, than
preceding writers on this gratifying subject, have
transcribed, — for the amusement of " every man's
Master," the STOMACH*.
* " The Stomach is the Grand Organ of the human system, upon the
state of whi<'h, all the powers and feelings of the Individual depend." — See
Hunter's Culina, p. 13.
" The faculty the Stomach has of communicating the impressions made
by the various substances that are put into it, is such, that it seems more
like a nervous expansion from Ihe Brain, than a mere receptacle for Food." —
Dr. WATEiiHoi;st's Lecture on Health, p. 4.
B
2 INTRODUCTION.
Numerous as are the Receipts in former Books, they
vary little from each other, except in the name given
to them ; the processes of Cookery are very few, — I
have endeavoured to describe each, in so plain and
circumstantial a manner, as I hope will be easily un-
derstood, even by the Amateur, who is unacquainted
with the practical part of Culinary concerns.
Old Housekeepers may think 1 have been tediously
minute on many points, which may appear trifling ; —
ray Predecessors seem to have considered the Rudi-
ments OF Cookery quite unworthy of attention.
These little delicate distinctions, constitute all the
difference between a common and an elegant Table,
and are not trifles to the Young Housekeeper, who
must learn them either from the communication of
ethers, — or blunder on till his own slowly-accumulating
and dear-bought experience teaches him.
A wish to save Time, Trouble, and Money, to inex-
perienced Housekeepers and Cooks, — and to bring the
enjoyments and indulgencies of the Opulent within
reach of the middle Ranks of Society, — were my motives
for publishing this book; — I could accomplish it, only
by supposing the Reader, (when he first opens it,) to
be as ignorant of Cookery, — as I was when I first
thought of writing on the subject*.
* " De toutes les Connaissancesuecessaires ^rhumanite souffrante; la plus
agreable, la plus importante a la conservation dcs hommes, et a la perpetuite
de mutes Ics jouissances de la nature, c'est la parfaite connalssance des
alimens destines a former notre constitution, a fortifier tous nos membres, a
ranimer ces organes destines k la perfection des sens, et a 6tre les mediateurs
des talens, de I'esprjt, du genie, &c. &c.
" C'est du sue exprime de nos flnides alimentaires, qu'est forme le tissu do
uotre frele machine; c'est au chyle qui en provient, que notre sang, noa
chairs, nos nerfs, nos organes, et tous nos seni, doivent leur existence et leur
seusibilite."
INTRODUCTION. 6
I have done my best to contribute to the comfort of
my fellow-creatures: — by a careful attention to the
directions herein given, the most ignorant may easily
learn to prepare Food — not only in an agreeable
and wholesome, — but in an elegant and economical
manner.
This task, seems to have been left for me, and I
have endeavoured to collect and communicate in the
clearest and most intelligible manner, the whole
of the heretofore abstruse Mysteries of the Culinary
Art; which are herein, 1 hope, so plainly developed,
that the most inexperienced student in the occult Art of
Cookery, f?2ai/ work from my Receipts, with the utmost
JhciUty .
I am perfectly aware of the extreme difficulty, of
teaching those who are entirely unacquainted with the
subject, and of explaining my ideas effectually by mere
Receipts, to those who never shook hands with a
Stew-pan.
In my anxiety to be readily understood, — I have
perhaps been under the necessity of occasionally re-
peating the same directions, in different parts of the
book : but I would rather be censured for repetition,
than for obscurity, — and hope I shall not be accused
of Affectation, while my intention is Perspicuity.
Our neighbours in France, are so justly famous for
their skill in the affairs of the Kitchen, that the adage
says, " As many French?jien, as many Cooks ;" surrounded
as they are by a profusion of the most deUcious Wines,
and seducing Liqueurs offering every temptation to
render drunkenness delightful, yet a tippling French-
man is a " rara avis."
b2
4 INTRODUCTION.
They know how so easily to keep Life in sufficient
repair by good eating, that they require httle or no
screwing up with hquid Stimuh. — This accounts for
that ** toujours gai," and happy equihbrium of the ani-
nial spirits, which they enjoy with more regularity than
any people: — their elastic Stomachs, unimpaired by
Spirituous Liquors, digest vigorously, the food they
sagaciously prepare and render easily assimilable, by
cooking it sufficiently, — wisely contriving to get half
the work of the Stomach done by Fire and Water,
till-^
" The tender morsels on the palate melt,
" And all the force of Cookery is felt."
See Nos. 5 and 238, &c.
The cardinal virtues of Cookery, " cleanliness,
FRUGALITY, NOURISHMENT, AND PA LATEABLENESS,"
preside over each preparation ; for I have not presumed
to insert a single composition, without previously
obtaining the " imprimatur" of an enlightened and in-
defatigable " COMMITTEE OF TASTE," {composed
of thorough-bred grands gourmands of the first
magnitude,) whose cordial co-operation 1 cannot too
highly praise ; and here do I most gratefully record
the unremitting zeal they manifested during their
arduous progress of proving the respective Recipes, —
they were so truly philosophically and disinterestedly
regardless of the wear and tear of teeth and stomach,
that their Labour — appeared a Pleasure to them. —
Their laudable perseverance, — which has enabled me
to give the inexperienced Amateur an unerring and
economical Guide, how to excite as much pleasure as
possible on the Palate, and occasion as little trouble as
INTRODUCTION. O
possible to the Principal Viscera, has hardly been
exceeded by those determined spirits who lately in the
Polar expedition braved the other extreme of tempera-
ture, &c. in spite of Whales, Bears, Icebergs, and
Starvation.
Every attention has been paid in directing* the
proportions of the following Compositions, not merely
to make them inviting to the Appetite, but agree-
able and useful to the Stomach ; — nourishing without
being inflammatory, and savoury without being sur-
feiting.
I have written for those who make Nourishment
the chief end of Eating*, and do not desire to provoke
* I wish most heartily that the restorative process was performed by us
poor mortals, in as easy and simple a manner, as it is in " the Cooking
Animals i?i the Moon," who " lose no time ai their meals; but open their
left side, and place the whole quantity at once in their stomachs, then shut it,
till tlie same day in the next month, for they never indnlge themselves with
food more than twelve times in a year."-^.5tc Baron Munchausen's
Travels, p. 188.
Pleasing the Palaie is the main end in most books of Cookery, but it is my
aim to hlend the toothsome ivith the uholesome ; for, after all, however the
hale Gourmand may at first differ from me iu opinion, the latter, is the chief
concern ; since if he be even so entirely devoted to the pleasure of eating, as
to think of no other, still the care of his Health becomes part of that; — ^jf he
is Sick, he cannot relish his Food.
'• The term Gourmand or Epicuke, has been strangely perverted; it has
been conceived synonymous with a Glutton, " Tie. pour la digestion," who
will eat as long as he can sit, and drink longer than he can stand, nor leave
his cup while he can lift it: or like the great eater of Kent whom Fuller
places among his Worthies, and tells us that he did eat with ease, thirty
dozens of Pidgeons at one meal, — at another, four score Rabbits, and
eighteen Yards of Black-Pudding, I^ndon Measure ! ! ! — or a fastidious
Appetite, only to be excited by fantastic Dainties, as the brains of Peacocks,
or Parrots, the tongues of Thrushes or Nightingales, or the teats of a
lactiferous Sow.
" In the acceptation which I give to the term Epicure, it mems only the
person who has good sense and good taste enough, to wish to have his food
cooked according to scientific principles; that is to say, so prepared, that the
b INTRODUCTION^.
Appetite, beyond the powers and necessities of Na-
ture;— proceeding however on the purest Epicurean
principles of indulging the Palate, as far as it can
be done without injury or offence to the Stomach —
and forbidding* nothing, but what is absolutely un-
friendly to Health.
This is by no means so difficult a task, as some
gloomy philosophers (uninitiated in culinary science)
have tried to make the world believe — who seem to
p.ilate be not offendtd — thai it be reutiered easy of solution in tlio Stoinacli,
and ultimately contribute to Health; exciting him as an animal, to the
vigorous cnjoynicnt of those recreations and duties, physical and intellectual,
which constitute the happiness and dignity of his nature." For this illustra-
tion I am indebted to my scientific friend Apicius Calius, Jan., wiih whose
erudite observations several pages of this work are enriched, to which I Iwve
affixed the signature A. C. Jun.
* " Although air is more immediately necessary to life than food, the
knowledge of the latter seems of more importance ; it ailmits certainly of
great variety, and a choice is more frequently in our power. A very spare
and simple diet has commonly been recommended as most conducive to
Health; but it would be more beneficial to mankind if we could show them
that a pleasant and vaiied diet, was equally consistent witii health, as the
very strict regimen of Arnard, or the Miller of Essex. These and other
abstemious people, who, having experienced the greatest extremities of bad
health, were driven to temperance as their last resource, may run out in
praises of a simple diet ; but the probability is, that nothing but the dread of
former sufl'erings could have given them the resolution to persevere in so
strict a course of abstinence ; which, persons who are in health, and have no
such apprehension, could not be induced to undertake, or, if they did, would
not long continue.
" In all cases, great allowance must be made for the weakness of human
nature; the desires and appetites of mankind, must to a certain degree be
gratified, and the Man who wishes to be most useful, will imitate the
indulgent Parent, who whilst he endeavours to promote the tine interests of
his children, allows them the full enjoyment of all those innocent pleasures
which they take delight in. If it could be pointed out to mankind, that some
articles used as food were hurtful, while others were in their nature innocent,
and that the latter were numerous, various, and pleasant, they might, perhaps,
be induced to forego those which were hurtful, and confine themselves to
those which were innocent."— See Dr. Stark's Experiments on Diet. p. 89
and 90.
INTRODUCTION. /
have delighted in persuading you, that every thing that
is nice must be noxious ; and that every thing that is
nasty, is wholesome.
But as worthy Wilham Shakespeare declared he
never found a philosopher who could endure the
Tooth-ach patiently, — the Editor protests that he has
not yet overtaken one, w^ho did not love a Feast.
Those Cynical Slaves, —who are so silly, — as to sup-
pose it unbecoming a wise man, to indulge in the
common comforts of Life — should be answered in the
words of the French philosopher. *' Hey — What — do
you Philosophers eat dainties?" said a gay Marquess.
" Do you think,'' replied Descartes, " that God made
good things only for Fools?''
Every individual, who is not perfectly imbecile and
void of understanding, is an Epicure in his own way —
ttie Epicures in boiling of Potatoes are innumerable —
the perfection of all enjoyment, depends on the perfec-
tion of the faculties of the Mind and Body — the
Temperate man, is the greatest Epicure, — and the only
true Voluptuary.
The Pleasures of the Table, have been highly
appreciated, and carefully cultivated in all Countries —
and in all Ages*, — and in spite of all the Stoics, — every
one will allow they are the first and the last we enjoy, —
and those we taste the oftenest, — above a Thousand
times in a Year, exery Year of our Lives II!
The Stomach, is the mainspring of our System, — if
it be not sufficiently wound up to warm the Heart, and
• See a curious account in CouRs Gastronomiqce, p. 145, aud in
Anacharsis' Travels, Robinson — 1796. — Vol. ii. p. 58, and Obs, and note
under No. 493.
8 INTRODUCTION.
support the Circulation, — the whole business of Life,
will in proportion be ineffectively performed, — we can
neither 7'hink with precision, — Sleep with tranquillity, —
IValk with vigour, — or sit doivn with comfort.
There would be no difficulty in provinr;, that it
influences (much more than people in general imagine)
all our actions : — the destiny of Nations has often
depended upon the more or less laborious digestion of
a Prime IVTinister* — see a very curious A/iecdute in the
Memoirs of Count Zin den dorff in Dodsley's Annual
Register for 1762. 3d Edition, p. 32.
The philosopher Pythagoras, seems to have been
extremely nice in eating, — among his absolute injunc-
tions to his disciples, he conunands them, to " abstain
from Beans."
This ancient Sage, has ])een imitated by the learned
who have discoursed on this subject since — who are
liberal of their negative — and niggardly of their posi-
tive precepts — in the ratio, that it is easier to tell you
not to do this, than to teach you how to do that.
Our great English moralist Dr. S. Johnson, his
biographer Boswell tells us, " was a man of very nice
discernment in the science of Cookery," and talked of
good eating, with uncommon satisfaction. " Some
people^" said he, " have a foolish way of not minding,
or pretending not to mind what they eat : for my part,
I mind my Belly very studiously and very carefully,
and 1 look upon it, that he who does not mind his
Belly, will hardly mind any thing" else."
The Dr. might have said, cannot mind any thing
• See Ihe 2d, 3d, and 4tb pages of Sir Wji. Templb's Essay on the Cure
of the Gout by Moxa.
INTRODUCTION. >J
else — the energy of our Bratns is sadly dependent on
the behaviour of our Bowels* — those who say His no
matter what we eat or what we drink, — may as well say,
'Tis no matter whether we eat, or whether we drink.
The following Anecdote I copy from Boswell's
Life of JoHNSOx.
Johnson. — " I could write a better Book of Cookery
than has ever yet been written; — it should be a book
on philosophical principles — I would tell what is the
best Butcher's Meat — the proper seasons of different
Vegetables — and then, how to roast, and boil, and to
compound.''
DUly. — " Mrs. Glasse's Cookery^ which is the best,
was written by Dr. Hill,"
Johnson. — " Well, Sir — this shows how much better
the subject of Cookery t may be treated by a Philoso-
pher| ; — but you shall see what a book of Cookery I
♦ " He that would have a clear Head, must have 2l. clean Stomach." —
Dr. Cheyne on Health, 8vo. 1724, p. 3!.
" It is sntficiently manifest how much nncomt'ortable feelings of the Bowels
affect the Nervous System, and how immediately and completely the general
disorder is relieved by an alvine evacuation." — p. 53.
" We cannot reasonably expect tranquillity of the Nervous System,
whilst there is disorder of the digestive organs. As we can perceive no per-
manent source of strength, but from the digestion of our food, it becomes
important on this account, that we should attend to its quantity, quality, and
the periods of taking it, with a view to ensure its proper digestion." —
A&iiRNET-HY's Sur. Obs. 8vo. 1817, p. &5.
t " If Science can really coctiibute to the happiness of mankind, it must be
in this department; the real comfort of the majority of men in this country-
is sought for at their own fire-side; how desirable does it then become
to give every inducement to be at home, by directing all the means of
Philosophy to increase Domestic Happiness!" — Sylvester's Philosofhy
of Domestic Economy, 4to. 1819, p. IT-
X The best Books of Cookery have been written by Physicians: — Sir
Kenelme Digby — Sir Theodore May erne — Professor Bradley —
Dr. Hill — Dr. Le Cointe — Dr. Hunter, &c.
B 5
10 INTRODUCTION.
shall make, and shall agree with Mr. Dilly for the
Copyright."
Miss Seward. — '' That would be Hercules with the
distaff indeed!" —
Jolmson. — '' No, Madam ; Women can spin very
well, — but they cannot make a good book of Cookery."
See vol. iii. p. 311.
Mr. B. adds, *' I never knew a man who relished
good eating more than he did : when at Table, he was
totally absorbed in the business of the moment: nor
would he, unless in very high company, say one word.
"To understand the Theory of Cookery, wc must attend to the
action of heat upon the various constituents of alimentary substances as
applied directly and iiidirectlj through the medium of some fluid, in the former
way as exemplified." In the processesof Roasting and roiLiNu,the chief
constituents of animal substances undergo the following changes— the Fibrine
is corrugated, ilie Albumen coagulated, the Gt7a</Hf and Osmazonie rendered
more soluble in water, the Fat liquefied, and the Water evaporated.
" If the heat exceed a certain degree, the surface becomes fust brown, and
then scorched. In consequence of these changes, the muscular fibre becomes
opaque, shorter, lirmer, and drier; thetendons less opaque, softer, and gluey ;
the fat is either melted out, or rendered semi-tianspareut. Animal !liu(ij
become more transparent; the albumen is coagulated and separated, and they
dissolve gelatine and osmazome.
" Lastly, and what is the most important change, and the immediate object
of all Cookery, the meat loses the vapid nanseous smell and taste peculiar to
its raw state, and it becomes savoury and grateful.
" Heat applied through the intervention uf boiling oil, or melted fat, as in
Frying, produces nearly the same changes; as the heat is sutiicient to
evaporate the water, and to induce a dei^rce of scorching.
" But when water is the medium throue.h which heat is applied— as io
Boiling, Stewing, and Baking, the eficcts are somewhat ditterent, as the
heat never exceeds 21 C", which is not snllicieDt to commence the process of
browuiug or decomposition, and the soluble constituents are removed,
by being dissolved in the water, forming soup or broth ; or, if the direct
contact of the water be prevented, they are dissolved in the juices of the
meat, and separate in the form of Gravy."
Vide Supplement to Encyclop. Brit. Edm. vol. iv. p. 344, the Article
" Food," to which we refer our reader as the most scientific paper on the
gubject that we have seen.
INTRODUCTION. 11
or even pay the least attention to what was said by
others, till he had satisfied his Appetite."
The peculiarities of his constitution were as great
as those of his character : Luxury and Intemperance
are relative terms — depending on other circumstances
than mere quantity and quality. — Nature gave him an
excellent Palate, and a craving appetite, — and his
intense application rendered large supplies of nourish-
ment absolutely necessary to recruit his exhausted
spirits.
The fact is, — this great Man had found out, that
Animal, and Intellectual Vigour*, are much more entirely
dependent upon each other, — than is commonly under-
stood;— especially, in those constitutions, whose diges-
tive and chylopoetic organs are capricious and easily
put out of tune, or absorb the " pabulum vita:" indolently
and imperfectly, — with such, it is only now and then,
that the " sensorium commune'^ vibrates with the full
tone of accurately considerative, or creative energy.
Thus does the Health always, — and very often the
Life of Invalids, and those who have weak and infirm
Stomachs, depend upon the care and skill of the
Cook. — Our Forefathers were so sensible of this, — that
in days of Yore, — no man of consequence thought of
making a day's journey without taking his " Magister
Coquorum" with him.
The rarity of this talent, in a high degree — is so well
* " Health, Beauty, Strength and Spirits, and I might add all the faculties
of the Mind, depend upon tlie Organs of the Body ; when these are in good
order, the thinking part is most alert and active, the contrary when they are
disturbed or diseased." — Dr. Cauogan on Nursing Children, 8vo. 1757,
p. 5.
12 IJ^TRODUCTION.
understood, that besides very considerable pecuniary
compensation, his Majesty's first and second Cooks*'
are now Esquires by their office ; — we have every
reason to suppose they were persons of equal dignity
heretofore.
In Dr. Pegge's *' Forme of Cur y," Svo. London, 1780,
we read, that when Cardinal Otto, the Pope's Legate,
was at Oxford, A.D. 1248, his brother officiated as
" Magister Coquin^e."
This important post, has always been held as a situa-
tion of high trust and confidence; and the " Magnus
CoQULS," Anglic^, the Master Kitchener, has, time
immemorial, been an Officer of considerable dignity,
in the palaces of Princes.
The Cook in Plautus (Pseudol) is called " Homi-
num serxatoiem,*' the preserver of mankind; and by
Mercier " un Medeciii qui guerit radicaUnicnt deux
fnaladie-s mortelles ; la Faim ct la Soif."
The Norman Conqueror William bestowed several
portions of Land on thtse highly favoured domestics, the
'• CoQuoRUM Propositus," and " Coquus Regius,"
— a Manor was bestowed on Robert Argyllon the
" Grani> Queux" to be held by the following service.
See that venerable Record, the Doomsday Book.
" Addington — Co. Surrey.
" Robert Argyllon holdeth one carucate of Land in
Addington in the County of Surrey, by the service of
• " We have some good families in England of the name of Cook or Coke.
I know not what they may think; but we may depend upon it, they all
originally sprang from real and professional Cooks ; and they need not be
ashamed of their extraction, any more than the Butlers, Parkers, 8c,c." —
Pegge, Forme ofCury, p. l62.
INTRODUCTION. 13
making one mess in an earthen pot in the kitchen of our
Lord the King, on the day of his coronation, called De
la Groute," i. e. a kind of Plum porridge, or Watergruel
with Plums in it. This dish is still served up at the
Royal Table, at Coronations, by the Lord of the said
Manor of Addington.
At the Coronation of King George IV., Court of
Claims, July 12, 18-20.
" The petition of the Archbishop of Canterbury,
which was presented by Sir G. Nayler, claiming to
perform the service of presenting a dish of De la
Groute to the King at the banquet, was considered
by the Court, and decided to be allowed."'
A good Dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of
human life; — ^ and as the practice of Cookery is at-
tended with so many discouraging difficulties *, so many
disgusting and disagreeable circumstances, and even
dangers, we ought to have some regard for those who
encounter them, to procure us pleasure, and to reward
their attention, by rendering their situation every way
as comfortable and agreeable as we can. JMere money
is a very inadequate compensation to a complete
Cook ; — he who has preached Integrity to those in the
* It is said, there are seven chances against even the most siirvple dish
being presented to the Mouth in absolute perfection ; for instance a Leu
OF Mutton.
lit. — I he Mutton must be good,
2d. — Must have been kept a good time,.
3d. — Must be roasted at ^ good fire,
4lh. — By a good Cook,
5th. — Who must be hv good temper,
6th. — With all this felicitous combination you must hn\e good luck, and
7th. — Good Appetite. — The Meat, and the mouths which are to eat it,
must be ready for each other, at the same moment.
14 INTRODUCTION.
Kitchen, — (see " Advice to Cooks") may be permitted to
recommend LiberaUti/ to those in the Parlour ; — they
are indeed the sources of each other.
Depend upon it, " True Self- Love and Social — are the
same;' " Do as you uould he done by ;" give those you
are obUged to trust, every inducement to be honest, —
and no temptation to play tricks.
When you consider that a good servant eats* no
more than a bad one, — how much waste is occasioned
by provisions being dressed in a slovenly and unskilful
manner — and how much a good Cook (to whom the
conduct of the Kitchen is confided) can save you by
careful management — no Housekeeper will hardly
deem it an unwise speculation, — it is certainly an ami-
able experiment, — to invite the Honesty and Industry of
domestics, by setting them an example of Liberality ^ —
at least, show them, that " according to their Pains,
will be their Gains." But trust not your servants with
the secret of their own strength; — Importance of any
kind, being what human frailty is hast able to hear.
Avoid all approaches towards Familiarity, which to
• To guard against " la gourmandise," of the second table, " provide
cicli of your servants with a hiri^e pair of spectacles of the liiglKs-t magnifying
power, and never permit them to sit down to any meal without weariog
them; they are as necessary, and as useful in a Kitchen as Pols and
Kettles: they will make a Lark look as large as a Fowl, a Goose as big as
a Swan, a Leg of Mutton as large as a Hind Quarter of Beef ; a twopeuny
loaf as large as a quartern ;" and as Philosophers assure you that Pain
even is only imaginary, we may justly believe the same of llaoger.
Tlins, if a servant who eats no more than one pound of food, imagines, by
the aid of these glasses, that he has eaten tliree pounds, his hunger will
be as fully satisfied — and the Addition to your Optician's Account, will
soon be overpaid by the Subtraction from your Batcher's and Baker's. — Life
of Col. Hanger, vol. ii. p. 153.
INTRODUCTION. 15
a proverb is accompanied by Contempt, and soon
breaks the neck of obedience.
Servants are more likely to be praised into good con-
duct— than scolded out of bad — always commend
them when they do right — to cherish the desire of
pleasing in them, you must show them that you are
pleased : —
•' Be to their Faults a little blind,
" And to their Virtues very kind."
By such conduct, — ordinary Servants, will often
be converted into Good ones ; — few so hardened, as
not to feel gratified when they are kindly and liberally
treated.
It is a good Maxim to select .Servants not younger
than THIRTY, — before that age, hov/ever comfortable
you may endeavour to make them, their want of expe-
rience, and the Hope of something still better — prevents
their being satisfied with their present state. — ^fter,
they have had the benefit of experience, if they are
tolerably comfortable, they will endeavour to deserve
the smiles of even a moderately kind master, for Fear
they may change for the worse.
Life may indeed be very fairly divided into the sea-
sons of Hope and Fear. In Youth, we hope every
thing may be right ; — in Age, we fear exery thing will be
wrong.
Do not discharge a good servant for a slight
offence —
" Bear and forbear, thus preached the stoic eages.
And in two v/ords, include the sense of pages." — Pope.
Human nature, is the same in all stations;
16 INTRODUCTION.
— if you can convince your Servants, that yon have a
generous and considerate regard for then* Health and
Comfort — why should You imagine that They will be
insensible to the good they receive ?
A Benevolent old Gentlewoman told ns that on
Wednesdays and Saturdays she allowed her servants
(three in number) half a Crown to purchase any thing
they pleased for Supper — that she was sure, that she
saved much more than double that sum by the general
Economy which this provision for their comfort induced
her domestics to observe.
Impose no commands but what are reasonable, — nor
reprove but with justice and temper — the best way to
ensure which, is — neier to Lccfinc thfin, till at hast one
dai/f after they haie offended you.
If they have any particular hardship to endure in
your service, — let them see that you are concerned for
the necessity of imposing it.
J f they are Sick, — remember you are their Patron as
well as their Master, — not only remit their labour,
but give them all the assistance of Food, Physic,
and every comfort in your power. — Tender assiduity
about an Invalid is half a Cure, — it is a balsam to
the Mind, which has a most powerful effect on the
Body, — sooths the sharpest Pains, and strengtlKins
beyond the richest Cordial.
The following estimate of the Expenses of a
Female Servant — was sent to us by an experienced
Housekeeper —
They are often expected to find their own Tea
and Sugar, — which with sober servants is the
INTRODL'CTION. 17
most comfortable meal they have — • and will re-
quire
Half a pound of Tea, per month ^ f
Ditto Ditto Snz^v,perueek \ per annum 3.10 0
4 pair of Shoes, per annum 0 18 0
2 pair of black worsted Stockings 0 4 0
2 pair of white Cotton Do. 0 5 0
2 Gowns 1 10 0
6 Aprons — 4 check, 2 white 0 10 6
6 Caps 0 10 6
A Bonnet, a Shawl or Cloak, Pattens, &c. Ribands, Haudker-
ciiiefs, Pins, Needles, Threads, Thimbles, Scisfars, and other
woikiiig tools, — Stays, Siay-tape, and Buckram, &c. &c 2 0 0
£9:8:0
Besides these, She has to make a shift and buy pet-
ticoats, pockets, and many other articles.
We appeal to the neatest managing and most economical
Housewife, to inform us how this can be done — and
how much a poor Girl will have remaining to place to
her account in the Saving Bank, — for help in Sickness,
— when Out of Place, — and for her support in Old Age.
— Here, — is the source, — of the swarms of distressed
Females which we daily meet in our streets.
Ye, who think that to protect and encourage Virtue, —
is the best preventive frofn Vice, — give your Female Ser-
vants liberal zvages.
" Charity should begin at home," — '* Prevention
is preferable to Cure," but I have no objection to see
your names ornamenting the Lists of Subscribers to
Foundling Hospitals, and Female Penitentiaries*.
* Much real reformation might be effected, and most grateful services
obtained, if Families which consist wholly of females, would take servants
recommended from the Magdalen — Penitentiary — or Guardian —
who seek to be restored to virtuous society.
'•' Female ser rants who pursue an honest course — have to travel in their
peculiar orbit, through a more powerfully resisting medium than perhaps any
18 INTRODUCTION.
" To say nothing of the deleterious vapours and
pestilential exhalations of the charcoal, which soon
undermine the health of the heartiest, the glare of a
scorching fire, and the smoke so baneful to the eyes
and the complexion, are continual and inevitable
dangers; — and a Cook must live in the midst of them,
as a Soldier on the field of battle, surrounded by
bullets, and bombs, and Congreve's rockets; — with
this only difference, that for the first, every day is a
fighting day, that her warfare is almost always without
glory, and most praisewortliy achievements pass not
only without reward, but frequently without even
Thanks; — for the most consummate Cook is, alas!
seldom noticed by the master, or heard of by the
guests; who, while they are eagerly devouring his
Turtle, and drinking his Wine, — care very little who
dressed the one, or sent the other." — Ahnanach iks
Govrmands.
This observation applies especially to the Second
Cook, oy Jirst Kitchai Maid, in large families, who
have by far the hardest place in the house, and are
other class of people in civilized Life, — they should be treated with some-
thing like Christian kindness — for want of this — a fault which might at the
time have been easily amended — has become the source of interminable
sorrow."
" By the clemency and benevolent interference of two mistresses known
to the writer, two servants have become happy wives, who, had they been in
some situations, would have been litirally Outcast?."
A most laudable Society for the Encouragement of Female
Servants, by a gratuitous Registry, and by Rewards, was instituted
in 1813.
Plans of which may be had gratis at the Society's House, Is'o. 10, Ilatton
Garden. The above, is an extract from the Rev. II. G. Watkins's
Hints to Heads of ramilies — a work well deserving their attentive con-
sideration.
INTRODUCTION. 19
worse paid, and truly verify the old adage, *' the more
work, the less wages.'' — If there is any thing right, the
Cook has the praise — when there is any thing wrong,
as surely the Kiicken maid has the blame. — Be it
known, then, to honest John Bull, that this humble
domestic, is expected by the Cook to take the entire
management of all Roasts and Boils, Fish and Vege-
tables — i. e. the principal part of an Englishman s
dinner.
The Master, who wishes, to enjoy the rare luxury,
of a table regularly well served in the best style, must
treat his Cook as his friend, — watch over her Health*
* The greatest care should be taken by the man of fashion, that his Cook's
health be preserved: —one hundredth part of the attention usually bestowed
on his dog, or his horse, will suffice to regulate her animal system.
" Cleanliness, and a proper ventilation to carry off smoke and steam,
should be particularly attended to in the construction of a kitchen; — the
grand scene of action, the fire-place, should be placed where it may receive
plenty of light : — hitherto the contrary has prevailed, and the poor Cook is
continually basted with her own perspiration." — A. C. Jun.
" The most experienced artists in Cookery cannot be certain of their
work, without Tasting: —they must be incessantly Tasting. — The Spoon of a
good Cook, is continually passing from the Stewpan to his Tongue ; — nothing,
but frequent Tasting his Sauces, Ilagouts, &c., can discover to him what
progress they have made, or enable him to season A Soup with any
certainty of success:— his Palate, therefore, must be in the highest state of
excitability, that the least fault may be perceived in an instant.
" But, alas! the constant empyreumatic fumes of the stoves, the necessity
of frequent drinking, and often of bad beer, to moisten a parched throat ; —
in short, every thing around him conspires quickly to vitiate the organs of
taste; the palate becomes blunted, its quickness of feeling and delicacy, on
which the sensibility of the organs of taste depends, grows daily more obtuse,
and in a short time the gustatory nerves become quite unexcitable.
"If you find your Cook neglect his business,— that his i?«g'(m?*
are too highly spiced or salted, and his cookery has too much of the " haut
goiit," — you may be sure that his Index of Taste wants regulating,— his
Palate has lost its sensibility,— and it is high time to call in the assistance of
the Apothecary.
" ' Purger souvent' is the grand Maxim in all Kitchens where le Mattre
d' Hotel has any regard for the reputation of his table. Les Boniies Ilommes
20 INTRODUCTION.
with the tenderest care, and especially, be sure, her
Taste does not suffer from her Stomach being deranged
by Bilious Attacks.
Besides understanding the management of the
Spit, — the Stewpan, — and the RoUivig Pin, a Com-
plete Cook must know how to go to Market, write
legibly, and keep Accounts accurately. In well re-
gulated Private Families, the most convenient custom
seems to be, that the Cook keep a house-book, con-
taining an account of the miscellaneous articles she
purchases — and the Butcher's, — Baker's, — Butter-
man's, — Green-grocer's, Fishmonger's, — Milkman's —
and Washing Bills are brought in every Monday ;
these it is the duty of the Cook to examine, before she
presents them to her employer every Tuesday morning
to be discharged.
The advantage of paying such bills weekly, is incal-
culable ; among others — the constant check it affords
against any excess beyond the sum allotted for defray-
de Bouche — submit to the operation, without a murmnr ; — to bind otiicrs, it
shocild be ma.le the first condition in hiring them. Those who refuse, —
prove they were not born to become Masters of their Art ; — and their indif-
ference to Fame, will rank them, as they deserve, among those stupid
Slaves, who pass their lives as in much obscurity as their own stewpans."
To tlie precedLig observations from the " Almanack des Gourmands,"
we may add, that the MouthJcian will have a still better chance of success, if
he can prevail on his master to observe the same regime which he orders for
his Cook, — or, instead of endeavouring to awaken an idle Appetite, by
reading the Index to a Cookery Book, or an additional use of the Pepj>er-Box
and Salt-Cellar — rather seek it from Abstinence, or Exercise — the philoso-
phical Gourmand will consider that the edge of our Appetite is generally
keen, in proportion to the activity of our other habits — let him attentively
peruse our " Peptic Precepts," &c., which briefly explain the Art of
refreshing the Gustatory Nerves — and of Invigorating the whole System. — See
in the following Chapter on Invitations to Dinner — A Recipe ta
make Forty Peristaltic Persuaders.
INTRODUCnON. 21
ing them, and the opportunity it gives of correcting
increase of expense in one week by a prudent retrench-
ment in the next. '* If you would hve tien with the
world, calculate your expenses at /lalf your Income — if
you would grow rick, at one-third." — See Bacon's
Essays.
See " Ten Minutts' Advice on the Management of
Income, Hatchard, Piccadilly, 1810;" Dr. Truster's
" Domestic Management, or the Art of managing a
Family ;" and by the same author, another v/ork well
worth the purchase of Young Housekeepers, called,
" The Honours of the Table, or the Art of Caning:" the
latter has been copied in a mutilated state into almost
every Cookery Book that has been made during the
kst thirty years.
The most complete Housekeeper's Account
Book is Poole's, published at No. 48, Fetter Lane.
It is an excellent plan to have a table of rules for
regulating the ordinary expenses of the Family, in
oi'der to check any innovation or excess v/hich other-
wise might be introduced unawares, and derange the
proposed distribution of the annual revenue.
it is almost impossible for a Cook to attend to the
business of the Kitchen with any certainty of perfection
if employed in other household concerns. — It is a
service of such importance^ and so difficult to perform
even tolerably well, that it is sufficient to engross the
entire attention of one person.
This is a Maxim which is neither understood nor
admired in some families, where the Cook is expected
to be a house servant also, and Coals are meted out to
her by the Quart, and Butter by the Ounce, &c. —
22 INTRODUCTION.
Nevertheless, these ignorant and unreasonable masters
and mistresses, are surprised, if most of their Ragouts,
and Sauces, &c. are spoiled ; and the Roasts either
burnt up, or not half done; but how can it be other-
-vvise, — if the Cook is obliged to be the slave of the
Bell*, &c. as well as of the Spit?
" If we take a review of the Qualifications that are
indispensable in that highly estimable domestic, a com-
plete Good Cook, we shall find that very few deserve
that namef."
♦ At Merlin's Mechanical MuseuiiUherG was a contrivance by the Beil,
which moved an Index to a corresponding word in the Kitchen. Tor
inBtauce —
Lay the Cloth.
Coals.
Candies.
Dinner.
Tea.
Hot Water.
Snpper.
Housemaid.
Cook, &c.
Before you rim; the Bell set this Index to what yon want — the Servant will
then know what yon wish for — and tlius much time and trouble will be saved
to both Master and Servant.
t " She must be quick and strong of sight ; her hearing most acute, that she
may be sensible when the contents of her vessels bubble, although they be
closely covered, and that she may be alarmed before the pot boils over: her
auditory nerve ought to discriminate (when several saucepans are in operation
at the same time) the simmering of one, the ebullition of another, and the full
toned wabbling of a third.
" It is imperiously requisite that her organ of smell be highly susceptible of
the various effluvia, that her nose may distinguish the perfection of aromatic
ingredients, and that in animal substances it shall evince a suspicious accuracy
between tenderness and putrefaction : above all, her olfactories should be
tremblingly alive to mustiness and empyrciraa.
" It is from the exquisite sensibility of her palate, that we admire and judge
of the Cook ; from the alliance between the olfactory and sapid organs it will
be seen, that their perfection is in iispensable." — A. C. Jun.
INTRODUCTION. 23
" The majority of those who set up for Professors of
this Art, are of mean ability, selfish, and pilfering
every thing they can : others are indolent and insolent.
Those who really understand their Business, (which
are by far the smallest number,) are too often, either
ridiculously saucy, — or insatiably thirsty : — m a word,
a good subject of this class, is a rara avis indeed !"
" God sends Meat," — who sends Cooks*? the pro-
verb has long saved us the trouble of guessing. Vide
Almanack des Gourmands ^ p. 83.
Of what value then is not this Book? — which will
render every person of common sense — a good Cook,
in as little time as they can read it through atten-
tively.
If the Masters and Mistresses of Families will
sometimes condescend to make an amusement of this
Art, they will escape a number of disappointments, &c.
which those who will not, must suffer, to the detriment
of both their Health and their Fortune.
The author wishes he had more time to devote to the
subject. An ingenious Chemist, and an intelligent
Cook, might form a very complete work, by taking
for their text Dr. George Pearson's admirably
arranged catalogues of Food, Drink, and Seasoning:
this most comprehensive abstract of this subject we
have ever seen, was printed for his Lectures on Thera-
peutics, &c. which the author attended in 1801.
I did not presume to offer any observations of my
* A facetious Gourmand suggests that the old story of " lighting a Candle
to the Devil" probably arose from this adage — and was an offering presented
to his Infernal Majesty, by some Epicure who was in want of a Cook.
24 INTRODUCTION.
own, till I had read all that I could find written on the
subject, and submitted (with no small pains,) to a patient
and attentive consideration of every preceding work, re-
lating to culinary concerns, that I could meet with.
These Books vary very little from each other, —
except in the preface, they are
" Like in all else as or.e Fgs; to another:"
** ah uno, disce omnes,'' cutting and pasting seem to
have been much oftener employed than the Pen and
Ink : any one who has occasion to refer to two or three
of them, will find the Receipts almost always '' i*trbatim
€t literatim ;'' equally unintelligible to those who are
ignorant, — and useless to those who are acquainted
with tlie business of the Kitchen.
Tlie following works are in my own Library; others
ray friends have favoured me with the perusal of,
amounting in all to not less than 250 Volumes.
Apicins Caliiis <le Arte Coqiii- A BodUc of Cookiyc, gathered
narin — cum notis. I\I. Lister, b) J. W 1591
M.D. F.R.S. ' Siindrie N'ew Remedies againste
The Boke of Kervynge, b. 1. i Famine, by II. Piatt, Esq. .. 1590
4IO. by \\ynkyn de Worde.. 1513 , F-pulario — or the Italian lian-
The Bookeof Carvyi.gc, b. 1. — qiict, b. 1 139^
no djric. I Butte's Dyets Dry Dinner .... ISpy
Sir Thomas Elyot, Cookerie.. 1539 Bread for the Boor l608
Ehasmiis' Ipicure, b. 1 1545 Dawson's Good Huswife's Jewel,
The Good Husive's Handmaid 1550 • and rare Conceits in Cookery l6lO
Cnrtius de Prandii et Coenaj \ The Booke of Carving and
Modo — Aldus 156c I Serving, b. 1 l(5l.3
V/illicJiii de Arte Magirica hoc i Api^s Dinees par A. Balinghem l6l5
efit Coqniiiaria 1563 ' A Closet of Delights for Ladica l630
A proper, new Booke of Cookery 1575 I Murrell's Cookerie and Manner
'J he Ilusbandly C)rdring and of making Kickshawes, &c. l030
Governniente of Poultrie, ! The Philosopher's Banquet. . .. :633
practised by the Karnedsie JA Bookeof Cookery 16.34
and such as have bene knowne | Vcnner, on Diet l638
skilfullest in that art, b. 1. .. 1581 j Bartolomeo Scappi del Cuoco 1643
The Honseholder's Philosophic, j Wisdom's Call to Temperance l65t>
■ito. b. I 1588 I The Schoolmaster, or Jeacher
Partridge's Treasury of Con- | of Table Philosophy, small
cietes, and Closet of Provision 1580 4to l652
The Good Housewife's Closet | The Ladies' Companion l653
of Provision 1590 ' Lord Ruthven's Cabin«;t, Ibmo. l654
INTRODUCTION.
25
Nature uiiembowelled, or 1720
Receipts 1655
Archimagirus's Receipts in
Cookery, by Sir Theodore
Mayerne, Physician to Chas.
II 1658
Lovell's Cookery l66l
The Complete Cook l662
The Court and Kitchen of Eliza-
beth Cromwell 1664
May's Accomplished Cook. . . . l665
The Office of Clerk of the
Market 1665
Sir Kenelm Digby's Cookery.. l669
Countesse of Kera's Choice Se-
crets, &c 1671
The True Gentlewoman's De-
light 1671
Cookery Dissected, by William
Rabisha l673
Kitchen Physic l675
The Gentlewoman's Cabinet
Unlocked, 7ih edition, l2mo. 1675
Rose's Sciiool for the Officers
of the Mouth l682
Hartman's Cookery, and De-
scription of aa Engine to
Cook without Wood, Coals,
Candle, or Oil 1682
Markham's iMiglish Housewife,
. -Ito 1683
Hannah Woi. ley's Rare Receipts l684
The Accomplished Ladies' De-
light 1686
Marnitte's Perfect English Cook 1686
The Kitchen 1 hysician I688
The Cupboard Door Opened . . 1689
Tillinghasi's Young Cook's Mo-
nitor 1690
The Complete Servant Maid .. i6gi
Tryon on Liquid Food 169I
'Iryon's Good Huswife made a
Doctor 1692
Thomas Tryon's Seventy five
Noble Dishes 1606
The way to save Wealth 1697
Evylyn's Discourse on the
Thirty.fi ve Sallets I699
The plain dealing Poulterer, or
Poulterer's Shop Opened, Bvo. I699
England's ILippiuess Improved
— no date.
The Compleat Cook's Guide . . 1701
The Accomplished Female In-
structor 1704
The Cook's Vade Mecura .... 1705
The Queen's Cookery 1709
Dr. Salmon's Cookery 1710
Incomparable Secrets in Cook-
ery 1710
The Compleat Cook 1710
The Whole Duty of Woman, and
Guide from 16 to 60 1712
The Court and Country Cook. . 1712
Le vrai Cuisinier Francois, et
Maitre d'Hotel, par le Sieur
de la Varenne 1712
Hall's Royal Cookery I719
Cookery and Pastry Cards.... 1720
Lamb's Royal Cookery 1726
Howard's Cookery 1726
Carte, 's System of Cookery . . 1730
Mrs. Eales' Receipts 1733
Middleton's 500 Receipts in
Cookery 1734
Smith's Cookery 1734
The Young Lady's Companion 1734
Three Hundred Receipts in
Cookery 1734
Bailey's Cookery 1736
Dr. King's Art of Cookery, in
verse 1740
Arnaud's Alarm to all Persons
touching their Health and
Lives 1740
Directions for Housekeeping
and Cookery 1741
The Family Piece 1741
The Ladies' Companion 1743
A Present to a Servant Maid,
or the sure IVIeans of gaining
Love and Esteem 1743
Adam's Luxury and Eve's
Cookery 1744
The Accomplis-hed Housewife 1745
Cocchi on Vegetable Diet .... 1745
Brownrigg on Salt 1748
Kidder's tieceipts for the use
of his Scholars 1750
Lemery on Food, Bvo 1750
Ha lison's Family Cook 1750
The Country Housewife, by R.
Bradley, F.R.S. and Pro-
fessor of Botany at Cam-
bridge 1753
La Chapelle's Modern Cook .. 1754
Miirtha Bradley's British House-
wife 1755
Sarah Jackson's Cook Director 1755
Essay on Diet, Nursing, &c. .. 1757
Mrs. Glassi.'s Art of Cookery. . 1757
Dr. Moifett on Foods, — cor-
rected by C. Bennet, M.D.
and R.James, M.D 1757
The Cook's Cookery, and Com-
ments on Mrs. Glasse 1758
Mrs. Phillips' Cookery 1758
Ur. ^Markham on the Ten Ingre-
dients used in the Adultera-
tion uf Bread 1758
Jackson on Bread 1758
Verral's Cookery ,, 1759
26
INTRODUCTION.
E. Cleland's new and easy
Method of Cookery 1759
Dr. Mauning's Art of niakitig
Bread I759
Primitive Cookery 176"
Virtues of a Crust of Bread .... 1767
Jeuk's Complete Cook 17(38.
Considerations relative to Bread 1768
E. Taylor, Art of Cookery —
Berwick, 8vo I769
The isorthnmberland House-
hold Book iu 1512 1770
Mary Smith's Complete House-
keeper, 8vo 1772
Sayer on I-ood, Exercise, and
Sleep 1772
The Use and Abuse of the
Steward's 1 able 1772
Essay on Bread 1773
'Ihe great Advantagtr of eating
pai e Bread I773
The most proper Bread for ge-
neral Use 1773
Easy \\:ty to prolong Life by
attention to%Nliat we Eat and
Drink 1775
C lermuni's Cookery ,,.. I77C
Adair on Diet.
Sarah 1 Unison's Housekeeper's
Pocket Book I777
Observations on Uiet and Regi-
men, by Wni. Falconer, M.D.,
F.R.S 1788
Pegge's Forme of Ciiry, com-
piled by the Master Cooks,
A.D. ir'AjO 1780
Mason's Cookery 1780
Dr. Graham on Regimen.
Keilet's Cookery 1780
Borella's Housekeeper's Guide 1780
Dalryniple's Cookery 17HI
Montague's Cookery I78I
Essay on Culinary Poisons, 8vo. 178I
Parmenlier on N utritive Vege-
table« 1783
Mrs. Fisher's Prudent House-
wife 17K8
Dr. Stark's Dietelical Experi-
ments, 4to 1788
Mrs. Maciver's Cookery, &c.
12nv 1789
The Complete Housewife .... 1790
Effects of Hard Drinking, J.
Lettsom, M D., F.R.S 1790
Moxon's Cookery I79O
Royal Household Book, from
King Edward UI. to William
and Mary 1790
Henderson's Cookery 17yo
Warner's Antiquitates Culina-
riae, 4to 1791
Briggs's Cookery 1791
Frazer's Cookery 1791
Coles' Cookc' y 1701
The Frei.ch tamily Cook (a
1 ranslation of La Cuisiniire
Bourgeoi^e) 1793
Martin's English Housekeeper 1795
The Seaman's Guide, by ihe
Hon. J. Cochrane 1797
Sandlord on the Ettects of Wine
and Spirits I799
Modern Method of Regulating
the Table with Bills of Fare,
&c. folio.
Skeat's Art of Cookery ,&c.4to.
Collingwood and Williams'
Cookery 1801
Arrai ged Catalogues of Food,
Drink, &c. by G. Pearson,
M.D., F.R.S., &c 1801
Practical Economy, by a Phy-
sician 1801
Millington's Cookery 1805
Rattald's Cookery I8O6
Culina I'amulati ix Mcdirina;, by
A. Hunter, M.D., F.R.S., &c. 1807
MoUard's Cookery 18t;6
The Lincolnshire Family Jewel
— Lincoln, l-2mo 1808
.Macdonald's Family Cook.... 1808
Nutt's Koyal Cook I8O9
Melroe's Cookery 1810
Smith's Female Economist.... 1810
Domestic Receipts 1810
Mrs. Carter's Frugal Housewife 1810
Hints to Butchers, Bakers, and
Fi^hmongeis 1810
Family Receipts 1810
The Bath Cookery Book 1810
Frugal Housewife lUll
Farley's Cookery 1811
Mrs. Powel's Art of Cookery.. 1811
Newton on \'egetable Regimeu 1811
Simpson's System ofCookery., 1813
Domestic Cookery 1813
Honistoii's Housekecjai 's As-
sistant, 12mo 1813
Ude's French Cook 18)3
Domestic Management 1813
Mrs. Price's Mew book of
Cookery 1813
The Scliotd of Good Living.... 1814
Reynold's Piofes^ed Cook.... 1815
Catharine Brook's linglishCook 1815
Young's Kpicure ., 1815
The Epicure's Almanack 1815
The HiHisekee pet's Receipt
15<)ok, 8vo 1815
Dallaway's Servant's Monitor 1815
Burford's Complete Instructor 18lfi
Haslehursi's Family Friend .. I8I6
INTRODUCTION. 27
Moubray on Breeding and Fat-
tening Poultry 1816
Hammond's Modern Domestic
Cookery 18l6
Complete Housewife's Best
Fran9ois ••.. 1752
La Science da Maitre d'Hotel 1776
La Cnisini^re Gasconne 1790
Les Dons de Comus, 3 toms... 1775
Nouvelle Chimie du Gout, 2
Companion — Derby 1817! toms I8I9
House's Family Cookery I8I9
The Banquet I8J9
Tlie Dessert I8I9
Sylvester's Philosophy of Do-
mestic Economy, 4to. ...... I8I9
Chamber's Ladies' best Com-
panion 1820
Accum on Adulteration of Foods
and Drinks, 2d Edit 1820
Do. on Brewing and Baking.. 1820
Le Menage des Champs et de la
Ville, ou Nouveau Cuisinier
La Cuisini^re Bourgeoise .... 1798
Le Parfait Cuisinier 1811
Le Nouveau Cuisinier ........ 1812
Le Cours Gastronomique .... 180g
Manuel des Amphitryons .... 1808
Almanach des Gourmands, &c.
8 toms * 1808
Le Cuisinier imperial, par A.
Viar, homme de bouche .... 1812
L'Art du Cuisinier, par Beauvil-
liers 1814
During the Herculean labour of my tedious progress
through these books — many of which did not afford the
germ of a single idea — I have often wished that the
authors of them had been satisfied with giving us
the results of their own practice and experience —
instead of idly perpetuating the errors, prejudices, and
plagiarisms, of their predecessors, — the strange, un-
accountable, and uselessly extravagant farragos, and
heterogeneous compositions, which fill their pages, are
combinations no rational being would ever think of
either dressing or eating, and without ascertaining the
practicability of preparing the receipts, and their
fitness for food when done, they should never have
ventured to recommend them to others ; — the reader
of them will often put the same qucere, as Jeremy, in
Congreve's comedy of " Lot: e for Love," when Valentine
observes, '* There's a page doubled down in Epictetus,
that is a feast for an Emperor." — Jer. Was Epictetus
a real Cook, — or did he only write Receipts ?
Half of these books are made up with pages cut
out of obsolete works, such as the " Choice Manual of
Secrets," the " True Gentlewoman's Delight," &c. of as
c2
28 INTRODUCTION.
much use, in this Age of refinement, as the following
curious passage from *' The Accomplished Ladys Rich
Closet of Rarities, or Ingenious Gentleivomans Delightful
Companion,'' 12mo. London, 1653, chapter 7, page 42;
which I have inserted in a note * to give the reader
a notion of the barbarous manners of the \Qth century,
with the addition of the Arts of the Confectioner, —
the Brewer, — the Baker, — the Distiller, — the Gardener,
— the Clearstarcher, — and the Perfumer, — and how
to make Pickles — Puff Paste — Butter and Blacking,
(SlTC. — together with all my Lady Bountiful's sovereign
remedies for an inward Bruise, — and other ever-
failing Nostrums — Dr. Killemquick's wonder-working
Essence, and fallible Elixir which cures all manner
of incurable maladies directly minute — Mrs. Notable's
instructions how to make soft Pomatum — that will
soon make more hair grow upon thy Head, — *' than
Dobbin, thy thill horse, hath upon his tail" — and many
• " A GenUewoinan bein^ at table, abroad or at home, must observe to Ijcep
her body straight, and lean not by a.;y means with her elbows, nor by
ravenous gesture discover a voracious appetite; talk not when you hare
meat in your mouth; and do not smack like a Pig, nor venture to eat
Spoonmeat so hot that the tears stand in your Lyes, which is as unseemly as
the Gentlewoman who pretended to have as little a Stomach as she had a
Month, and therefore would not swallow her Peas by spoonsful; but took
them one by one, and cut ihcm in two bclbre she would eat them. It is very
nncoraely to drink so large a draught that your Breath is almost gone — and
are forced to blow strongly to recover yourself — throwing down your liqiior
as into a Funnel is an action fitter lor .t Juggler than a Gcntletvoman ; thui
much for your Observations in general ; if t am defective as to particulars,
your own prudence, discretion, and curious observations will supply.
" In Cakving at your own Table, distribute the best pieces first, and it
will appear very comely and decent to use a Fork ; so touch no piece of
Meat without it."
" Mem. The English are indebted to ToM Coryat for introducing the
Fork, for which they called him Furci/er." — See his Crudities, vol. i.
p. 106. — Edit. lT7G,8vo.
INTRODUCTION. 29
Others equally invaluable ! ! ! — the proper appellation
for which, would be " a dangerous budget of vulgar
errors," concluding with a bundle of extracts from
" the Gardener's Calendar" and " the Publican's Daily
Companion."
Thomas Carter, in the preface to his " City and
Country Cook," London, 1738, says, " What I have
published, is almost the only book, one or two excepted,
which of late years has come into the world, that has
been the result of the author's own practice and expe-
rience ; for though very few eminent practical Cooks
have ever cared to publish what they knew of the
art, yet they have been prevailed on, for a small
premium from a Bookseller, to lend their names to
performances in this art, unworthy their owning."
Robert May, in the introduction to his " Accomplished
Cook," 1665, says, " To all honest and well-intending
persons of my profession., and others, this hook cannot but he
acceptable, as it plainly and profitably discovers the mystery
of the whole art ; for which, though I may be envied by
some, that only value their private interests above
posterity and the public good ; yet, (he adds,) God
and my own conscience would not permit me to bury
these, my experiences, with my silver hairs in the
grave."
Those high and mighty Masters and Mistresses of
the Alimentary Art, who are commonly called " Pro-
fess" Cooks — are said to be very jealous and myste-
rious beings : — and that if in a long life of laborious
Stove work, they have found out a few useful secrets —
they seldom impart to the public the fruits of their
experience, but sooner than divulge their discoveries for
30 INTRODUCTION.
the benefit and comfort of their fellow-creatures — often
run the risk of a reprimand from their employers, —
and will sooner spoil a good Dinner, — than suffer their
fellow-servants to see how they dress it ! ! !
The silly selfishness of short-sighted mortals, is never
more extremely absurd — than in their unprofitable
parsimony, — of what is of no use to them, —but would
be of actual value to others, — who in return would
willingly repay them tenfold : — however, I hope 1 may
be permitted to quote in defence of these culinary
Professors — a couple of lines of a favourite old song:
" If yon search the world round, each profession, you'll find,
Hath some snug little secrets, which the Mystery • they call."
My Receipts are the results of experiments care-
fully made, and accurately and circumstantially re-
lated :
• " Almost all Arts and Sciences are more or less encumbered with vulgar
errors and prejudices, which avarice and ignorance have unfortunately
sufficient influence to preserve, by help (or hinderance) of mysterious, unde-
finable, and not seldom unintelligible, technical terms — Anglicd, nicknames
— which, instead of enlightening the subject it is professedly pretended they
were invented to illuminate, serve but to shroud it in almost impenetrable
obscurity; and, in general, so extravagantly fond are the professors of an art
of keeping up all the pomp, circumstance, and mystery of it, and of preserving
the accumulated prejudices of agus past undiminished, that one mitlit fairly
suppose those who have had the courage and perseverance to overcome
these obstacles, and penetrate the veil of science, were delighted with placing
difficulties in the way of those who may attempt to follow them, on purpose
to deter them from Uie pursuit, and that they cannot bear others should
climb the hill of knowledge by a readier road than they themselves did : and
such is Vesprit du corps, that as their predecessors supported themselves by
serving it out gradatim et stillatim, and retailing with a sparing hand the
information they so hardly obtained, they find it convenient to follow their
example : and, willing to do as they have been done by, leave and bequeath
the inheritance undiminished to those who may succeed them." — See page 7
of Dr. KiTCHiNBR's Observations on Telescopes, 3d Edit.
INTRODUCTION. 31
The Time requisite for dressing being stated.
The Quantities of the various articles contained
in each composition being carefully set down in
Number, Weight, and Measure.
The Weights are Avoirdupois; the Measure,
Lynes graduated Glass, i. e. a Wine pint divided into
sixteen ounces, and the Ounce into eight Drachms : — ■
by a Wine-glass, is to be understood two ounces liquid
measure ; — by a large or table Spoonful^ half an ounce :
— by a small or Tea Spoonful^ a drachm, or half a
quarter of an ounce, i. e. nearly equal to two drachms
avoirdupois.
At Price's glass warehouse, near Exeter 'Change,
in the Strand, you may get measures divided into Tea
and Table Spoons. — No Cook should be without one,
who wishes to be regular in her business.
This precision has never before been attempted in
Cookery books, but I found it indispensable, from the
impossibility of guessing the quantities intended by
such obscure expressions as have been usually em-
ployed for this purpose in former works.
For instance : a little bit of this — a handful of that —
a nip or pinch of t'other, — do 'em over with an Egg —
and a sprinkling of salt, — a dust of flour, — a shake of
pepper, — a squeeze of lemon, — or a dash of vinegar,
&c. are the constant phrases; season it to your Palate,
(meaning the Cook's,) is another form of speech:
now, if she has any, — it is very unlikely that it is in
unison with that of her employers, — by continually
sipping piquante relishes, it becomes blunted and
insensible, and soon loses the faculty of appreciating
32 INTRODUCTION.
delicate flavours, — so that every thing is done at
random.
These Culinary technicals* are so very differently
understood by the learned who write them, — and the
unlearned who read them, — and their "■ rule ofT/iumb"
is so extremely indefinite, — that if the same dish be
dressed by different persons, it will generally be so
different, that nobody would imagine they had worked
from the same directions, which will assist a person
who has not served a regular apprenticeship in the
Kitchen, no more than reading " Robinson Crusoe,"
would enable a Sailor to steer safely from England to
India.
It is astonishing how cheap Cookery Books are held
by practical Cooks : when I applied to an experienced
artist to recommend me some books that would give
me a notion of the first principles and rudiments of
Cookery, he replied with a smile — " You may read
Don Quixote, or Peregrine Fick/e, they arc both very
good books."
Careless expressions in Cookery are the more sur-
prising, as the Confectioner is regularly attentive, in
the description of his preparations, to give the exact
quantities, though his business, compared to Cookery,
• " In the present language of Cookery, there has been a woeful departure
from the simplicity of our Ancestors, such a farrago of unappropriale and
unmeaning terms, many corrupted from the French, others disguised from
the Italian, some mis;ipplied from the German, while many are a disgrace to
the English. What can any person suppose to be the meaning of a Shoulder
of Lamb in eyigram, unless it were a poor dish, for a Tennyless Poet f
Aspect of Jish, would appear calculated for an Astrologer; and shoulder
of mutton surprised, designed for a Sheep stealer." — A. C. Jun.
INTRODUCTION.
33
is as unimportant, as the Ornamental is inferior to the
Useful.
The maker of Blanc-mange, Custards, &c., and the
endless and useless collection of pretty playthings for
the Palate, (of first and second childhood, for the
vigour of manhood seeketh not to be sucking Sugar-
candy, or sipping Turtle,) is scrupulously exact, even
to a grain, in his ingredients ; whilst Cooks are unin-
telligibly indefinite, although they are intrusted with
the administration of our food, upon the proper quality
and preparation of zvJiich, all our poxiers of Body and
Mind depend; — their Energy, being invariably^ in the
ratio, of the performance of the restorative process, i. e.
the quantity, quality, and perfect digestion of what v^e
eat and drink ; and a sufficient portion of sound
Sleep, '' the balm of hurt minds, chief nourisher in life's
feast, gTeat Nature's second course/'
Unless the Stomach be in good humour, every part
of the machinery of life must vibrate with languor ; —
can we then be too attentive to its adjustment! ! !
CULINARY CURIOSITIES.
The fallowing specimen of the unaccountably whimsical Harlequinade of
Foreign Kitchens is from " La Chapelle" Nouveau Cuisinier, Paris, 17^8.
" A Turkey," in the shape of " a Football," or " a Hedge-Hog." — " A
Shoulder of Mutton," in the shape of a " Bee-Hive." — " Entree of Pigeons,"
" in the form of a Spider" or .S/<«-Fashion, or " in the form of a Frog," or,
in " the form of the Moon." — Or, " to make a Pig taste like a Wild Boar;"
Take a living Pig, and let him swallow the following drink, viz. boil together
in vinegar and water, some rosemary, thyme, sweet basil, bay-leaves, and
sage ; when you have let him swallow this, immediately uhip him to Death,
and roast him forthwith. How " to still a Cocke for a weake bodie that k
consumed," " take a red Cocke that is not too olde, and beate him tw
death." — See the Eooke of Cookrye, very necessary for all such
C.5
34 INTRODUCTION.
as delit^ht therein. — Gathered by A. W. 159I, 12mo. p. 12. How to Roast a
pound o/" Butter, curiously and well; and lo farce (the culinary technical
for to stuff J a boiled kg of Lamb with Red Herrings and Garlick; with
maDy other receipts of as high a relish, and of as easy digestion as the Devil's
Venison, \. e. a roasted Tiger stufied with tenpenny >.'ails, or the " Bonne
Bouchc," the Rareskin Rowskiinowmowsky, oflfered to Baron Munchausen
"a fricasee of Pistols, with Gunpowder and Alcohol sauce," — see the
Adventures 0/ Baron Munchausen, icmo. 1792, p. 2O0: — and the hor-
riblc hut authentic account of AaoKsoiF in Moubray's Treatise on
Poultry, 8vo. I8I6, p. 18.
But the most extraordinary of all the Culinary Receipts that have been
under my eye, is the following diabolically cruel directions of jMizald's.
" Hoiv to roast and eat a Goose alive." — "Take a GOOSE, or a DUCK, or
some such lively creature, (but a Goose is best of all for this purpose,) pull
off all her feathers, only the head and neck must be spared: then make a fire
round about her, not too close to her, that the smoke do not choke her, and
that the fire may not burn her too soon; nor too far oft", that she may not
escape free : within the circle of the fire let there be set small cups and pots
full of water, wherein salt and hone}' are mingled; and let there be set also
chargers full of sodden Apples, cut into small pieces in the dish. The Goose
must be all larded, and basted over with butter, to make her the more fit to be
eaten, and may roast the belter : put then fire about her, but do not make too
much haste, when as you see her liegin to roast ; for by walking about, and
flying here and there, being cooped in by the fire that stops her way out, the
unwearied Goose is kept in; she will fall to drink the water to quench her
thirst and cool her heart, and all her body, and the Apple Sauce will make
her dung, and cleanse and empty her. And when she roastcth, and consumes
inwardly, always wet her head and heart with a wet sponge ; and when you
see her giddy with running, and begin to stumble, her heart wants moisture,
and she is roasted enough. Take her up, set her before your guests, and she
will cry as you cut off any part from her, and will be almost eaten up before
she be dead : it is mighty pleasant to behold! !!" — See Weckkr's Secrets of
Xature, in folio, London, 166O, pp. 148, 309 •.
" We suppose IMr. Mizald stole this receipt from the kitchen of his Infernal
Majesty : probably it might have been one of the dishes the devil ordered
when he invited Nero and Caligula to a feast." — A. C. Jun.
This is also related in Baptista Porta's Natural Magicke, fol. l658,
p. 321. This very curious (but not scarce) Book contains among other strange
tricks and fancies of " the Olden Time," directions, " how to Roast a«d
Boil afoul, at the same time, so that one-half shall be Roasted — and
the other Boiled;" — and " if you have a lacke of Cooks — How toper,
suade a Goose — to roast himselfe .' ! .'"
Many articles were in vogue in the 14th Century which are now obsolete —
♦ See Isote to (No. 59,) how to plump the liver of a Goose.
INTRODUCTION. 35
ve add the following Specimens of the Culinaey Affairs of Days op
Yore. ~
Sauce for a Goose, A.D. 1381.
" Take a faire panne, and set hit under the Goose whill she rostes;— and
kepe clene the grese that droppes thereof, and put therto a godele (good deal)
of Wyn, and a litel vynegnr, and verjus, and onyonsmynced, or garlek; then
take the gottes (gut) of the Goose and slitte horn, and scrape horn clene in
watur and salt, and so wash horn, and hack horn small, then do all this
togedur in a piffenent (pipkin) and do thereto raisinges of corance, and
poudei- of pepur and of ginger and of canell, and hole clowes and maces, and
let hit boyle and serve hit forthe."
" That unweiidy marine animal the PORPUS was dressed in a variety of
modes, salted, roasted, stewed, &c. Our ancestors were not singular in their
partiality to it ; I find, from an ingenious friend of mine, that it is even nowj
A. D. 1790, sold in the markets of most towns in Portugal — the flesh of it is
intolerably hard and rancid." — Warner's Ant'iq. Cul. 4to. p. 15.
" The Swan* was also a dish of state, and in high fashion when the elegance
of the Feast was estimated by the magnitude of the articles of which it was
composed ; the number consumed at the Earl of Northumberland's table, A. D.
1512, amounted to twenty." — Northumberland Household Book, p. 108.
" The Crane, whs a darling dainty in William the Conqueror's time, and
so partial was that monarch to it, that when his prime favourite William Fitz
Osborne, the steward of the household, served him with a Crane scarcely half
roasted, the King was so highly exasperated, that he lifted up his fist, and
would have strucken him, had not Eudo (appointed Dapifer immediately
after) warded oflF the blow." — Warner's Antiq. Cul. p. 12.
Seals, Curlews, Herons, Bitterns, and the Peacock— that noble
bird " the food of Lovers and the meat of Lords" — were also at this time in high
fashion — when the Baronial Entertainments were characterized by a grandeur
and pompous ceremonial, approaching nearly to the magnificence of Royalty :
there was scarcely any Royal or Noble feast without Pecokkes, which were
stuffed with Spices and Sweetherbs, roasted and served up whole, and covered
after dressing with the skin and feathers — the beak and comb gilt and the tall
spread — and some, instead of the feathers, covered it with leaf-gold: — it was a
common dish on grand occasions — and continued to adorn the English table
till the beginning of the 17th Century.
In Massinger's Play of " the City Madam," Holdfast exclaiming against
city luxury says, " three fat wethers bruised, to make sauce for a single
Peacock."
This Bird Is one of those luxuries which were often sought, because they
were seldom found : its scarcity and external appearance are its only recom-
mendation— the meat of it is tough and tasteless.
• " It isa curions illustration of the de gustibus non est disputandum, that
the ancients considered the Swan as a high delicacy, and abstained from the
flesh of the Goose as impure and indigestible."— Mou bray om Poultry, p.36»
36 INTRODUCTIOX.
Another favoorile Dish at the tables of onr Forefathers was a Pie of
tto^eDdons magnitude, out i.>f which, on its being opened, a flock of li>ing
birds flew forth, to the no small surpiiie and amnsensent of the gnests.
*' Four-and-twenty Blackbirds bak'd in a Tie ;
" When the Pie was opeuM the birds began to sing —
" Oh : what a dainty dish — 'lis fit for any King."
This was a common Joke at au old English Feast. These animated Pies
were often introduced " to set on," as Hamlet sajs, " a quantity of barren
•pectators to Ungh," — there is an instance of a Dwarf undergoing such au
incrustation. — About the year l630. King Charles ai}d his Queen were
entertained by the Doke and Dutchess of Buckingham, at Burleigh ou the
Hill, on %\hich occasion Jeffery Hidsox, the DuarJ, was served op in a
cold Pie.— Sec NValpolk's Anecdotes of Painting, vol. ii. p. H.
The Baron of Beef was another favorite anil substantial support of Old
English Hospitality.
AmoBg the most polished nations of the 15th aud l6th Centuries the
foudcred (salted) Hone secuis to have been a dish iu some esteem :
Grimalkin herself could not e5ca|>e the andistiugnishing fury of the Cook.
Don Anthony of Guevera, the Chronicler to Charles V., gives the following
account of a Feast at which he was present. " I will tell you no he, 1 sawe
soch kiudes of mcates eaten, as are wont tj be sene, but not eaien — os a
Horse roasted — a Cat in gdy — Lyzakds in hot broihe, Frocges
fried," &:c.
While we are thus considering the carious diihcs of olden limes, \ve will
cursorily mention the singular diet of two or three n.uiou6 of antiquity
noted by Herodotus, L. 4. " Ihe Androphagi (the cannibals of ilie ancient
world) greedily devoured the carcasses of their fellow creatares; while the
iDofl°ensive L'abri (a Scythian tribe) found both food aud drink in the
agreeable nut of the Pontic Tree. The Lotophagi lived entirely on the fmit
of the Lotus Tree. The savage Troglodyte esteemed a living serpent the
inost delicate of all morsels; while the capricious palile of the ZyguJitini
preferred the Ape to every thing." — Vide War.ner's Antiq. Cut. p. 135.
" The Romans, in the luxurious period of their empire, took five meals a
day ; a Breakfast (jentaculumj; a Dinner, which was a light meal without any
formal preparation (prandiumj; a kind of Tea, as we should call it, between
dinner and s-.ipper {merendaj ; a Supj>er (canaj, which was their great
meal, aud commonly consisted oftt\o courses; the first of meats — the second,
what wc call a Dessert; — and a Pusse:, or something delicivus after supper,
(co»«/»«J«/M)>"— Adam's Rom. Antiq. p. 454 and 447-
The Romans usually began their enteMainmeuls wiih eggs, aud ended with
fruits; hence Ab ovo csque AD mala, from the beg;iuDing to the end of
snpper, llorat. Sat. i. 3. 6.; Cic.Fam. is. £0.
The dishes (edulia) held in the highest estimation by the Romans are
enumerated, Cell. vii. 10. Macrob. Sat. ii. 0. Martial, v. 7;\ ix. 48. xi. 53.
tec. a Peacock, (pavo, v. us} Horat.Sat. ii. £. C3. Juvenal, i. 143. first used
by Hortensias ,the orator .at a snpper, which he gave when adnmted into the
INTEOUUCTIOX. 6/
tollege of priests, (aditiali cana sacerdotii), Plin. x. £0. s. 23. a pheasant,
;'PHASIANA, cx Thasi Colchidisjluiio ) Martial, iii. 58. siii. "2. Seuec. ad
Helv. 9. Petron. "0. Manil. v. 372. a bird called Attagen vel -iJia, from louia
or Phryaia, Horat. Epod. ii. 54. Martial, xiii. 61. a gaiuea hea, {aih Afra,
Horat. ibid. Gallina Xumidica vel A/ricana, Javenal, si. 142. :Maitial.
xiii. 73.) a ilelian crane; an A:ubracian kid; nightingales, lu&cinia ;
thrushes, titrdi i ducks, geese, &c. Tomaculcm, (a TEjOcva;), ifZIsicicM,
fab iriscco), sausages or paddings, Juvenal, x. 355. Martial, i. 42. 9.
Petron. Zl.—See Adam's Roman Antiquities, 2d Edition, 8vo. 17U2, p. 447.
That the English reader may be enabled to form some idea of the
heteroseneous messes vith wh'ch the Roman Palate was delighted, I
introduce the following Receipt from Apicius.
" Thick Sacce for a Boiled Chicken." — Put the followi.^g ingredients
into a Mortar;— Aniseed; dried Mint, and Lazer Root, (fimilar to Asa-
fcptija.) cover them with vinegar. — Aud dales; pour in Liquameji, Oil, and
a small quantity of Mustard Seeds— redcoe all io a proper thickness wi;h Port
Wine wanned; aud ihen por.r this same over your Chicken, which should
previously be boiled in Anise-seed water."
Liquamcn aud Carum wove synonymons terms for the sjme thing;
the former adopted in the loom of the la'ter — about the age of Aurelian. It
was a Liquid, and thus prepared: — The Guts of large Fish and a variety of
small Fish, were put into a vessel and well salted, and then exposed to the
Sun till they became putrid. A liquor was produced in a short time, which
being strained ofi', v. as the Liquamen. — Vide Lister in Apicinm, p. 16, notes.
Essence of Anchory, as it is usually made for sale, wheaitbas beenopenetl
about 10 days, is not much unlike the Roman Liquamen. See No. 433. — Some
suppose it was the same thing as the Rus-iau Caviar, which is prepared from
the Roe of the Sturgeon.
The Black Br.OTH of Lacedcrmon wiil long coutinue to excite the
wonder of the Philosopher, and tee disgust of the Epicure. Y*'h.u the
ingredients of this sable composition were, v,e cannot exactly ascertain.
Jul. Pollux says, the Lacedemonian Elack Broth was blood, thickened in a
certain way: Dr. Li£TER {in Apicium) supposes it to h&se'bee-a ho^'s blood ;
if so, this celebrated Spartan dish bore no very dbtant resemblance to the
black-puddings of our days, it could not be a very alluring mess, since a
citizen of Sybaris having tasted it, declared, it was no longer a matter of
astonishment with him, ^\hy the Spartans were so fearless of death, since
any one in his senses would much rather die, than exist on such execrable
foo,i. Tide Athen-aum, L. iv. c. 3. When Dionysius the Tyrant had tasted
the Black Broth, he exclaimed against it as miserable stuff; the Cook
replied, — " It was no wonder, for the sauce was wanting." " What sauce ?" says
Dionysius. The answer was, — " Labour and exercise, hunger and thirst,
these are the sauces ue Lacedemonians use," and they make the coarsest
fare agreeable.— CxcEF.o, 3 Tnscul.
INVITATIONS TO DINNER.
In '' the AJfairs of the Mouth" the strictest punctuality
is indispensable; — the Gastronomer ought to be
as accurate an observer of Time, as the Astronomer.
The least delay produces fatal and irreparable Mis-
fortunes.
Almost all other Ceremonies and Civil Duties may
be put off for several hours without much incon-
venience, and all, may be postponed without absolute
Danger. — A little Delay, may try the patience of those
who are waiting; but the act itself will be equally
perfect and equally valid. — Procrastination sometimes
is rather advantageous than prejudicial. It gives
time for Reflection — and may prevent our taking a
step which would have made us miserable for Life ; the
delay of a Courier has prevented the conclusion of a
Convention, the signing of which might have occasioned
the niin of a Nation.
If from Affairs the most important, we descend to
our Pleasures and Amusements, we shall find new
arguments in support of our assertions. The putting
off of a Rendezvous, or a Ball, &c. will make them the
more delightful. To hope, is to enjoy.
" Man never is, but always to be blest."
The anticipation of Pleasure warms our imagination,
INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 39
and keeps those feelings alive, which Possession too
often extinguishes.
" 'Tis Expectation only makes ns blest;
" Enjoyment disappoints us at the best."
Dr. Johnson has most sagaciously said : " Such is
the state of Life, that none are Happy, hut by the antici-
pation of Change : the Change itself is nothing; when
we have made it, the next Wish, is immediately to
change again."
However singular our assertions may have at first
appeared to those who have not considered the subject,
we hope by this time v/e have made converts of our
readers, and convinced the " Ajnateurs de Bonne Chere'
of the truth and importance of our remarks ; and that
they will remember, that Dinner is the only act of the
day which cannot he put off with Impunity, for even five
MINUTES.
In a well regulated family, all the Clocks and Watches
should agree ; on this depends the fate of the Dinner ;
•what would be agreeable to the Stomach, and restorative to
the System, if served at five o'clock, — will be uneatable
and indigestible at a quarter past.
The Dining room should be furnished with a good
going Clock; — the space over the Kitchen fire-place
with another, vibrating in unison with the former, so
placed, that the Cook may keep one Eye on the Clock,
and the other on the Spit, &c. She will calculate to a
minute the time required to roast a large Capon or a
little Lark, — and is equally attentive to the degree of
heat of her Stove, and the time her Sauce remains on
40 INVITATIONS TO DINNER.
it — when to withdraw the Bakings from the oven, the
Roast from the spit, and the Stew from the pan.
With all our Love of punctuahty, the first considera-
tion must still be, that the Dinner " he u-ell dune, uhcn
'ris done.''
It is a common fault with Cooks uho are uver'aniious
about Time — to overdress txcry thing — the Guests had
better wait than the Dinner — a little delay will improve
their Appetite*; — but if the Dinner waits for the
Guests, it will be deteriorated every minute : — there-
fore the Host who wishes to entertain his friends with
food perfectly well dressed, must, while he most
earnestly endeavours to impress on their minds the
importance of being punctual to the appointed hour, —
will still allow his Cook — her quarter of an hour's
grace.
The old Adage that " the Eye is often bigger than
the Belly," is often verified by the ridiculous vanity of
those, who wish to make an appearance above their
fortune — nothing can be more ruinous of real comfort
• " II y a trois sortes d'appeliis; celui que Ton eprouve :i jeun ; sensation
imptricuse qui nc chicane point sur le met', et qui vous fait vciiir I'eau a la
bouclie a I'aspect d'un bon ragout. Je le compare au dtsir impclueux (i'uii
jeuuc homme qui voit sourirc la beante qu'il aime. — Le second appttii est
celui que I'on ressent lorsquc, s'etant mis a table sans faim, on a deja goiite
rt'un plat succulent, et qui a consacre Ic proverbe, I'apfctit lient en mangeant.
Je rassimile ii IViat d'un inari dont le ccEur ticde s'eclnuffe aux premieres
caresses de sa fenime. — Le troisicme appetit est celui qu'excile nn iiicls
delicieux qui paraU a la fin d'un repas, lorsqne, I'estomac satisfait, I'liommc
sobrc allait quiltcr la table sans regret. Celui-la trouve son cmbl^me dans
Ics feux da libertinagc, qui quoique illusoires, font naitre cependaut quL-lques
plaisirs reels. La connoissance de cette metaphysique de I'appetit doit
guider le Cuisinier habile dans la composition du premier, du second, et du
troisiime service."— C't>«r4 Gastrono7nique, p. 64.
INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 41
than the too common custom of setting out a table,
with a parade and a profusion, unsuited not only to
the circumstances of the Host, but to the number of the
Guests : — or more fatal to true Hospitality, than the
multiplicity of dishes which luxury has made fashion-
able at the tables of the Great, the Wealthy — and
the Ostentatious, — who are often, neither great nor
wealthy.
Such excessive preparation, instead of being a com-
pliment to our Guests, is nothing better than an
indirect offence; it is a tacit insinuation, that it is
absolutely necessary to provide such delicacies — to
bribe the depravity of their palates, when we desire the
pleasure of their company — and that Society in Eng-
land, ':iow, must be purchased, at the same price
Swift told Pope, he was obliged to pay for it in
Ireland — "I should hardly prevail to find one Visitor,
if I were not able to hire him with a bottle of Wine." —
Vide Swift's Letters !o Pope, July \Oth, 1732.
When twice as much cooking is undertaken as there
are Servants, or conveniencies in the Kitchen to do it
properly — dishes must be dressed long before the
dinner hour, and stand by spoiUng — the poor Cook
loses her credit, and the poor guests get Indigestions —
Why prepare for eight or ten Friends, more than
sufficient for twenty or thirty Visitors ? '* Enough is as
good as a Feast," and a prudent provider, who takes
measure of the Appetites, instead of the Eyes of his
Guests, may entertain his Friends, — three times as
often, and ten times as well.
It is vour SECOND COURSES — ridiculous variety of
42 INVITATIONS TO DINNER.
Wines, Liqueurs, Ices*, Desserts, Sec. — which are
served up to feed the Eye — that overcome the Stomachy
and paralyze Digestion, and seduce *' children of a
larger Growth" to sacrifice the health and comfort of
several days, — for the Baby-pleasure of tickling; their
tongue for a few minutes, with Trifles and Custards!!!
&c. &c.
" Indigestion will sometimes overtake the most
experienced Epicure ; — when the gustatory nerves are
in good humour, Hunger and Savoury Viands will
sometimes seduce the Tongue of a " Grand Gourmand^
to betray the interests of his Stomach, in spite of his
Brains.
*' On such an unfortunate occasion, when the Stomach
sends forth eructantf signals of distress, for help, the
Peristaltic Persuaders are as agreeable and effectual
assistance as can be offered ; and for delicate Consti-
tutions, and those that are impaired by Age or Intem-
perance, are a valuable Panacea.
** They derive, and deserve this name, from the
peculiar mildness of their operation. One or two very
gently increase the action of the principal viscera, help
them to do their work a little faster, and enable the
Stomach to serve with an ejectment whatever offends
it, and move it into the Bowels.
• Swilling cold Soda Water immediately after rating a hearty diuner, is
another very unwholesome custom.
t The Strong Peppermint, or Ginger Lozenges, made by Smith, Fell
Street, Wood Street, Cheapside, are an excellent help for that flatulence with
which some aged and Dyspeptic people are afflicted three or four hours after
Dinner.
INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 43
*' Thus Indigestion is easily and speedily removed, —
^;);?e^?7e restored, —(the mouths of the absorbing vessels
being cleansed) Nutrition is facilitated, — and Strength
of Body, and Energy of Mind, are the happy results." —
See " Peptic Precepts," from which we extract the
following prescription —
To make Forty Peristaltic Persuaders,
Take
Turkey Rhubarb, finely pulverized, — two drachms.
Syrup, (by weight) one drachm.
Oil of Cairaway, ten drops (minims.)
Made into Pills, each of which will contain Three
Grains of Rhubarb.
" The Dose of the Persuaders must be adapted
to the constitutional pecuharity of the Patient — when
you wish to accelerate or augment the Alvine Exonera-
tion— take two — three — or more, according to the
eflPect you desire to produce — Tzco Pills will do as
much for one person, as Jiie or six will for another ;
they will generally very regularly perform what you
wish to-day, — without interfering with what you hope
will happen to-morrow ; — and are therefore as con-
venient an argument against Constipation as any we
are acquainted with.
*' The most convenient opportunity to introduce them to
the Stomach, — is early in the morning, when it is unoc-
cupied, and has no particular business of Digestion,
&c. to attend to — i. e. at least half an hour before
breakfast. Physic must never interrupt the Stomach,
when it is engaged in digesting Food.
" From two to four Persuaders, will generally produce
one additional motion, within twelve hours. They
may be taken at any time by the most delicate
44 INVITATIONS TO DINNER.
Females, whose constitutions are so often distressed
by constipation — and destroyed by the drastic purga-
tives they take to reheve it.''
The Cloth* should be laid in the Parlour, and all the
paraphernalia of the dinner table completely arranged,
at least an hour before dinner time.
The Cook's labour will be lost, if the Parlour table
be not ready for action, — and the Caters ready for the
Eatables — which the least delay will irreparably
injure: — therefore, the Gouumand will be punctual
for the sake of gratifying bis ruling passion; — the
Invalid, to avoid the danger of encountering an
Indigestion from eating ill-dressed food ; and the
Rational Ep'cure, who happily attends the Banquet
with " mens sana in corpore sano," will keep the time not
only for these strong reasons, but that he may not lose
the advantage of being introduced to the other Guests.
He considers not only what is on the Table, — but
Who are around it; — his principal inducement to-
leave his own Fire-side, is the charm of agreeable and
instructive Society, and the opportunity of making
connexions, which may augment the interest and enjoy-
ment of existence.
It is the most pleasing part of the Duty of the Master of
the Feast, (especially when the Guests are not very
• Le Grand Sommelier, or Chief Bltler, in former times was expected
10 be especially accomplished in the Art of folding Table Linen— so as to
lay his napkins in different forms every day — these transformations are
particularly described in Rose's Instructions for the Otlicers of the Mouth,
l682, p. Ill, &c. " To pleat a napkin in the form of a CockleShell Double."
— " In the form of^Hen and Chickens" — " shape of two capons in a Pye"—
or " like a Dog with a Collar about his Keck" — aud many others equally
wliimsical.
INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 46
numerous,*) to take advantage of these moments to
introduce them to one another, — naming them indivi-
dually in an audible voice, — and adroitly laying hold
of those ties of acquaintanceship or profession which
may exist between them.
This will much augment the pleasures of the Festive
Board, — to which it is indeed as indispensable a
Prelude, as an Overture to an Opera: and the Host
will thus acquire an additional claim to the gratitude
of his Guests. — We urge this point more strongly,
because, from want of attention to it, — we have seen
more than once, — persons whom many kindred ties
would have drawn closely together, pass an entire day
without opening their lips to each other, because they
were mutually ignorant of each other's names, profes-
sions, and pursuits.
To put an end at once to all Ceremony as to the
order in which the Guests are to sit, it will save much
time and trouble if the Master of the House adopts the
simple and elegant method of placing the name of each
Guest in the plate which is intended for him. — This
proceeding, will be of course the result of consideration,
and the Host will place those together who he thinks
will harmonize best.
Le Journal des Dames informs us, that in several
fashionable houses in Paris, a new arrangement has
been introduced in placing the company at a Dinner
table.
'' The Ladies first take their places, leaving intervals
• " Depuis long-temps le nonibre des Gi ices ou celni des Muses a regie les
diners airaables; passe ce dernier nombre il n'y a plus ni intimite, ni conver-
sation generale."— Co?<r* Gostronomique, p. 311.
46 INVITATIONS TO DINNER.
for the Gentlemen ; after being seated, each is desired
to call on a gentleman to sit beside her; and thus the
Lady of the House is relieved from all embarrassment
of etiquette, as to rank and pretensions/' &c.
But without doubt, says the Journalist, this method
has its inconveniences.
" It may happen that a bashful Beauty dare not name
the object of her secret wishes, and an acute observer
may determine, from a single glance, — that the elected,
is not always the chosen."
If the Party is large, the Founders of the Feast
shoald sit in the middle of the Table, instead of at
each end, — thus they will enjoy the pleasure of
attending equally to all their Friends — and being in
some degree relieved from the occupation of Carving —
will have an opportunity of administering all those
little attentions which contribute so much to the
comfort of their Guests.
If the GuRSTS have any respect for their Host, — or
prefer a well-dressed dinner to one that is spoiled, —
instead of coming ha/fan hour after, they will take care
to make their appearance a quarter of an hour before the
time appointed.
The operations of the Cook are governed by the
Clock, — the moment the Roasts, S^c. are ready, they
must go to table, if they are to be eaten in perfection.
An invitation to come at Five o'clock, seems to be
generally understood to mean Six', Five precisely,
half past Fixe; and not later than Five, (so that
Dinner may be on the table within ten minutes after,
•llowing this for the variation of watches,) Five
o'clock exactly.
INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 47
Be it known to all Loyal Subjects of the Empire of
Goodlking, that the Committee of Taste have
unanimously resolved, " an Invitation to ETA. BETA.
PI. 7nust he in Writing, and sent at least ten days before
tlie Banquet — and must be answered in Writing, {as soon
as possible after it is received) — within Twenty four hours
at latest" — especially if it be not accepted — then, in
addition to the usual complimentary expressions of
thanks, &c. the best possible reasons must be assigned
for the non-acceptance, as a particular pre-engagement,
or severe indisposition, &c.
Nothing can be more disobhging than a refusal
which is not grounded on some very strong and un-
avoidable cause, — except not coming at the appointed
hour; — " according to the Laws of Conviviality, a cer-
" tificate from a Sheriff's Officer, a Doctor, or an
*' Undertaker, are the only Pleas which are admissible.
" The duties which Invitation imposes, do not fall only
" on the Persons invited, but like all other Social
" duties, are reciprocal.
•'As he who has accepted an Invitation cannot
" disengage himself from it; the Master of the Feast
" cannot put oft' the entertainment on any pretence
" whatever. — Urgent Business,— Sickness, — not even
" Death itself can dispense with the obligation which he
" is under of giving the Entertainment for which he has
" sent out invitations, which have been accepted; — for
" in the extreme cases of compulsory Absence, or
*' Death, his pkce may be filled by his Friend or
" Executor." — Vide le Manuel des Amphitryons, 8vo.
Paris, 1808, f/ Corns Gastronomique, 1809; — to which
the reader is referred for further Instructions.
48 INVITATIONS TO DINNER.
It is the hast Punishment that a blundering Ill-Bred
Booby can receive^ txho comes half an hour after the time he
•ii;<is bidden, to Jind the Soup removed, and the Fish cold:
moreover, for such an Oftence, let him also be mulcted
in a pecuniary Penalty, to be applied to the fund for
THE BENEFIT OF DECAYED COOKS. This is the least
punishment that can be inflicted on one whose silence,
or violation of an engag:ement, tends to paralyze an
entertainment, and to draw his friend into useless
expense.
Box LEA u, the French satirist, has a shrewd obser-
vation on this subject. " 1 have always been punctual
" at the hour of Dinner," says the Bard, " for 1 knew,
" that all those whom I kept waiting at that provoking
" interval, would employ those unpleasant moments,
" to sum up all my faults. — Boileau is indeed a man
*< of Genius — a very honest man; — but that dilatory
" and procrastinating way he has got into, would mar
" the virtues of an Angel."
There are some, who seldom keep an appointment;
— we can assure tbem they as seldom " 'scape without
whipping" — and exciting those murmurs which inevit-
ably proceed from t'le best regulated Stomachs, — when
they are empty and impatient to be filled.
The most amiable Animals, when hungry, become
Ill-tempered, — our best Fiiends employ the time they
are kept waiting, in recollecting and repeating any real
faults we have, — and attributing to us a thousand
imaginary ones.
Ill-Bred Beings, who indulge their own caprice,
regardless how they wound the feelings of others,
if they possess brilliant and useful talents, — may
CARVING.
49
occasionally be endured as convenient Tools; —
but deceive themselves sadly, if they possess all the
Wisdom, and all the Wit in the World, — they fancy
they can ever be esteemed as Friends.
Manners make the Man.
Good Manners have often made the Fortune of
many, who have had nothing else to recommend them :
III Manners have as often marred the hopes, of
those who have had every thing else to advance them.
These regulations may appear a little rigorous to
those phlegmatic philosophers,
I, past all pleasures, damn the joys of sense,
1 rev'rend dulness, and grave impotence;"
" Who. .
" With rev'rend
and are incapable of comprehending the Importance
(especially when many are invited) of a truly hospitable
Entertainment: but Genuine Connoisseurs in the Science
of Good Cheer, will vote us Thanks for our endeavours
to initiate well-disposed Amateurs,
CARVING.
Ceremony, does not in any thing, more commonly,
and completely triumph over Comfort, than in the
administration of " the Honours of the Table."
Those who serve out the Loaves and Fishes, seldom
seem to understand, that he is the best Carver — who
fills the plates of the greatest number of Guests, in
the least portion of time.
To effect this,^// the Plates and send them round —
50 CAR^I^■G.
instead of asking' each Individual if they choose Soiij)
— Fish, &c. or what particular part tliey prefer — for
as they cannot all be Choosers — you will thus escape
making any invidious distinctions.
A dexterous Carver*, (especially if he be possessed
with that determined enemy to Ceremony and Sauce, a
keen appetite,) will help half a dozen people in half the
time, one of your would be thought polite folks wastes
in making civil faces, <&rc. to a single Guest.
Jt uoitld save a great deal of Time, <^c. if Poultry,
especially large Turkeys and Geese — were sent to
table ready cut up. (No. 530*.)
Fish that is fried, should !)e previously divided into
such portions as are fit to liclp at table — see (No. 145.)
A prudent Carver will cut fairt ; and observe an
equitable distribution of the Dainties he is serving out
— and regulate his helps, by the proportion which his
dish bears to the number he has to divide it amongst,
— taking into this reckoning, the quantum of Appetite
— the several guests are presumed to possess.
• In Days of Yore " I.e Grand Ecuyer Tranthant," or the Master
Cah vtn, wastlie next Officer of the Mouth in rank tothe " Militred'Hutel,"
^nd the technical terms of his Art, were as singular as any of those >vliicli
ornament " Grose's Classical Slang Dictionary," or" Ihe Gipsies Ciliberi^Ii :"
the only one of these old phrases now in common u?c is, " cut up the
TiKKET," — we are no longer desired to " disfigure a Peacock" — " unbrace
a DncR" — " unlace a Conev" — " tame a Crab" — " tire an Euc" — and
" spoil the Hen," &c. —See Instructions/or the Officers of the Mouth, by
Rose, i68C.
+ Those in the Parlour, should recollect the importance of setting a good
example to their friends at the second table. — Tf they cut Bread, — Meat —
Cheese— &c. fairly — it will go twice as far as if they hack and mangle it—
a* if they had not half so much consideration for those in the Kitchen, as a
■^)od Sportsman has for Lis Dogs.
CARVING. Ol
" Study their Genius, caprices, Gout —
" They, in return, may haply study you :
'* Some wish a Piuioo, some prefer a Leg,
" Some for a IMerry-thought, or Sidesbone beg : —
" The wings of Fowls, then slices of the round, —
" The triiil of Woodcock, of Codfish the sound.
" Let strict impartiality preside —
" Nor freak, nor favour, nor affection guide."
From the Banquet.
The Guest who wislies to ensure a hearty welcome,
and frequent invitation to the board of hospitaUty,
may calculate that the '' easier he is pleased, the
oftener he will be invited ;" instead of unblushingly de-
manding of the fair Hostess that the prime " tit bit" of
every dish be put on his plate — must receive, (if not
with pleasure — or even content) with the liveliest ex-
pressions of thankfulness whatever is presented to him,
— and let him not forget to praise the Cook, and the
same shall be reckoned unto him even as the praise of
the Mistress,
The Invalid or the EpicurCj when he dines out, to
save trouble to his friends, may carry with him a port-
able Magazine of Taste, (See No. 463.)
" If he does not like his fare, he may console
himself with the reflexion, that he need not expose his
Mouth to the like mortification again ; — Mercy to the
feelings of the Mistress of the Mansion, will forbid his
then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with
it, — notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy."
" If he likes it ever so little, he will find occasion to
congratulate himself on the advantage his digestive
organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner,
— and consolation from contemplating the double
relish he is creating for the following meal, and antici-
d2
62 CARVING.
pating the (to him) rare and delicious zest of (that best
sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence
of his gormandizing fancies at the Chop-house he
frequents."
** Never intrust a Cook-Teaser with the important
office of Carver, — or place him within reach of a
Sauce-boat. These Chop-house Cormorants, who
" Critique yonr wine, and analyze your meat,
Yet on plain piulding deign at home to eat,"
are, generally, tremendously officious in serving out
the loaves and fishes of other people, — for, under the
notion of appearing exquisitely amiable — and killingly
agreeable to the Guests — they are ever on the watch to
distribute themselves — the dainties — which it is the
peculiar part of the Master and Mistress to serve out,
and is to them the most pleasant part of the business
of the Banquet, — the pleasure of helping their friends
is the gratification, which is their reward for the trouble
Ihey have had in preparing the Feast: such Gentry are
the terror of all good Housewives; — to obtain their
favourite Cut — they will so unmercifully mangle your
Joints, — that a dainty dog would hardly get a meal
from them after, — which managed by the considerative
hands of an old Housekeeper, would furnish a decent
Dinner for a large Family." — Vide '■^Almanack cies
Gourmands!'
I once heard a gentle hint on this subject, given to a
Blue-mould fancier, who by looking too long at a
Stilton cheese, was at last completely overcome by his
Eye exciting his Appetite, till it became quite un-
governable and unconscious of every thing but the mity
CARVING. 53
object of his contemplation ; he began to pick out in
no small portions, the primest parts his Eye could
select from the centre of the Cheese.
The good-natured Founder of the Feast, highly
amused at the Ecstacies each morsel created in its
passage over the palate of the enraptured Gourmand,
thus encouraged the perseverance of his Guest — " Cut
away, my dear sir, cut away, use no Ceremony, I pray :
— I hope you will pick out all the best of my Cheese —
THE RIND and the rotten will do very well for my Wife
and Family ! /"
Half the trouble o/" waiting at table may be sated,
by giving each guest, two plates, two knives and forks,
two pieces of bread, a spoon, a wine glass, and a tum-
bler, and placing the Wines and Sauces, and the
Magazine of Taste, 463, &c. as a Dormant, in the
centre of the table ; one neighbour may then help
another.
Dinner tables are seldom sufficiently lighted, or
attended — an active waiter will have enough to do,
to attend upon half a dozen active Eaters — there should
be half as many Candles as there are Guests — and
their flame be about 18 inches above the table — our
foolish modern pompous Candelabras, seem intended
to illuminate the Ceiling, rather than to give light on
the Plates, &c.
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS*,
AND OTUrR
SERVANTS.
\.B. Read Die pncodiiig Preface, &c. and " the Rj'dimevts oi
COOKERY," before the following Addres?.
On your first coining into a family, lose no time in
immediately getting into the good oraces of vour
fellow-servants, — that you may learn from them the
customs of the Kitchen, and the various rules and
orders of the House.
Take care, to be on good terms with the servant who
waits at table; — you may make use of him as your
Sentinel to inform you how your work has pleased in
the parlour, and by his report you may be enabled in
some measure to rectify any mistake; — but re(|uest the
favour of an interview with your Master or Mistress, —
depend as little as possible, on seeond-hand opinions — judge
of your Employers, from your own observations, and
f/ieir behaviour to you, — not from any idle reports from
tlie other Servants, who, if your Master or Mistress
inadvertently drop a word in your praise — will innne-
• A Chapter of Advice to Cooks, will, we hope, be found as useful as it is
original : all we have on this subject in the works of our predccessurs, is ilii-
following : " I shall strongly recommend to all Cooks of lither sex, tu keep
their htomachs free from strong liquors till after Dinner, and their Noses
irom snutt." — Fide Clermont's Professed Cook, p. 30, 8vo. London, 1776.
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 55
diately take alarm, and fearing your being more in
favour than themselves, will seldom stick at trifles to
prevent it, by pretending to take a prodigious liking
to you, and poisoning your mind in such a manner as
to destroy all your confidence, &c. in your Employers,
and if they do not immediately succeed in worrying
you away — will take care that you have no comfort
while you stay.
If you are a good Cook, — and have tolerably
fair play, — you will soon become a favourite domestic
— if your Master is a Man of Taste — but never boast
of his approbation, for in proportion as they think you
rise in his estimation — you will excite all the tricks,
that Envy, Hatred, and Malice, and all Uncharitable-
ness, can suggest to your fellow-servants; — every one
of whom — if less diligent, — or less favoured than
yourself — will be your Enemy.
While we warn you against making others your
Enemy — we must caution you also to take care that
you do not Yourself become your own and greatest
Enemy. — '•' Favourites are never in greater danger of
falling, than when in the greatest favour" — which often
begets a careless inattention to the commands of their
employers, and insolent overbearance to their equals —
a gradual neglect of duty — and a corresponding for-
feiture of that regard — which can only be preserved
by the means which created it.
Jf your Employers are so pleased with your conduct
as-to treat you as a friend rather than a servant — do
not let their kindness excite your self-conceit, so as to
make you for a moment forget you are one. Con-
56 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
descension even to a proverb produces Contempt — in
inconsiderate minds — and to such the very means
which Benevolence takes to cherish attention to duty,
becomes the cause of the evil you wished to prevent.
To be an agreeable Companion in the Kitchen, —
without compromising your duty to your Patrons in the
Parlour, — requires no small portion of good sense and
good nature — in a word, you must *' do as you would he
done by."
Act for, — and speak of every body as if
they were present.
We hope the Culinary Student who peruses these
pages, will be above adopting, the common, mean and
base, and ever unsuccessful way of " holding with the
Hare, and running with the Hounds," — of currying
favour with fellow-servants — by flattering them, and
ridiculing the Mistress when in the Kitchen, — and then
prancing into the Parlour — and purring about her,
and making opportunities, to display all the little
faults you can find {or invent) that will tell well
against those in the Kitchen — assuring them, on your
return, — that they were praised^ — for whatever you
heard them blamed, — and so, excite them to run more
extremely into any little error — which you think will
be most displeasing to their Employers — watching an
opportunity to pour your poisonous lies into their
unsuspecting ears, when there is no third person to
bear witness of your Iniquity — making your Victims
believe, it is all out of your sincere regard for them —
assuring them (as Betty says in the Man of the World.)
" That indeed you are no busybody that loves fending
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 57
Dor proving, but hate all tittling and tattling — and
gossiping and back-biting," &c. &c.
Depend upon it, if you hear your fellow-servants
speak disrespectfully of a Master or Mistress with
whom they have lived some time — it is a sure sign
that they have some sinister scheme against yourself —
if they have not been well treated, why have they
stayed?
" There is nothing more detestable than defamation,
— I have no scruple to rank a Slanderer, with a
Murderer or an Assassin. — Those who assault the
reputation of their Benefactors — and ' rob you of
that which nought enriches them' — would destroy
your Life, if they could do it with equal impunity."
*' If you hope to gain the respect and esteem of
others, and the approbation of your own Heart — be
respectful and faithful to your Superiors ; obhging and
good natured to your fellow-servants — and charitable
to all."
*' Let your character be remarkable for Industry,
and Moderation — your Manners and Deportment, for
modesty and humility ; and your Dress distinguished
for simplicity, frugality, and neatness, — if you outshine
your companions in finery, you will most inevitably
excite tiieir Envy, and make them your Enemies."
" Do every thing at the proper time."
'* Keep every thing in its proper place."
" Use every thing for its proper purpose."
*' Never think any part of your business too trifling
to be well done."
d5
58 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
" Ea2:erly embrace every opportunity, oflearning- any
thing which may be useful to yourself— or of doing any
thing which may benefit others." — Dallaway's
SenanCs Monitor, 1815, p. 165, &zc. a work well wortii
the perusal of Young Housekeepers.
Do not throw yourself out of a good place for a slight
affront. *' Come when you are called, and do what
you are bid."
Place yourself in your Master's situation, and then,
consider, what you would expect from him, if he were
in yours.
Although there may be "■ more places than parish
churches," it is not very easy to find many more good
ones. —
" A rolling stone never gathers moss.''
** Honesty is the best Policy."
** A still tongue, makes a wise head."
*' Saucy answers are highly aggravating— and answer
no good purpose."
Let your Master or Mistress scold ever so much, or
])e ever so unreasonable; — as " a soft answer turneth
away wrath" — " so will silence, or a mild answer, be
the best a servant can make."
" If your Employers are hasty, and have scolded
without reason — bear it patiently — thev will soon s^ee
their error, and be happy to make you amends —
muttering on leaving the room — or slamming the
<loor after you, is as bad as an impertinent reply — it is,
in fact, showing that you would be impertinent if you
dared"
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 59
** A faithful Servant, will not only never ^peak
disrespectfully to her Employers — but will not hear
disrespectful words said of them." — Trus leu's Do-
inestic Management ^ p. 12, 17, &c.
Apply direct to your Employers^ and beg of them to
explain to you, as fully as possible, how they like their
Victuals dressed, — whether much — or little done*.
Of what complexion they wish the Roasts, of a gold
colour, or well browned, and if they like them frothed ?
Do they like Soups and Sauces, thick or thin,
or white or brown, clean or full in the mouth? What
accompaniments they are partial to?
What Flavours they fancy? especially of Spice and
Herbs.
" Namqne coquns doraini debet habere gulam." — Martial.
It is impossible that the most Accomplished Cook
can please their palates, till she has learned their
particular taste — this, it will hardly be expected, she
can hit exactly the first time — however, the hints we
have here given, and in the 7th and 8th Chapter of the
Rudiments of Cookery, will very much facilitate the
ascertainment of this Main Chance of getting into their/
favour.
Be extremely cautious of Seasoning High, — leave it to
the Eaters, to add the piquante condiments, according
to their own palate and fancy : for this purpose,
" The MAGAZi'isrE of Taste," or " Sauce-box'','' (No.
463.) will be found an invaluable acquisition — its
* Meat that is not to be cut till it is Cold, mist be thorouglily done,
especially ia summer.
60 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
contents will, instantaneously, produce any flavour that
may be desired.
" De gustibus non est disputandnin."
Tastes are as different as Faces, — and without a
most attentive observation of the directions g:iven by her
Employers, the most experienced Cook will never be
esteemed a sagacious Palatician.
It will not go far to pacify the rage of a ravenous
Gourmand^ who likes his Chops broiled brown (and
done enough, so that they can appear at table decently,
and not blush when they are cut,) to be told that some
of the Customers at Dolly's Chop house choose to have
them only half-done, and that this is the best way of
eating them.
We all think that is the best "way^ which JVe relish
best, and which agrees best with our Stomach : — in
this. Reason and Fashion — all powerful as they are
on most occasions, — yield, to the imperative caprice of
the Palate.
Chacun a son Gout.
" The Irishman loves Usquebaugh, the Scot loves Ale cali'd Blue-Cap,—
" The Welchman, he loves Toasted Cheese, and makes liis mouih like a
Monsc-trap."
Our Italian neighbours regale themselves with
Macaroni and Parmesan, and eat some things, which
we call Carrion. — Vide Ray's Travels, p. 362 and 406.
Whilst the Englishman boasts of his Roast Beef,
Plum Pudding and Porter —
The Frenchman feeds on his favourite Frog and
Soupemaigre —
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 61
The Tartar feasts on Horse-Jlesh —
The Chinaman on Dogs —
The Greenlander preys on Garbage and Train
Oil — and each " blesses his Stars and thinks it
Luxury." — What at one time or place, is considered as
beautiful, fragrant, and savoury, at another — is
regarded as deformed and disgustful*.
*' Ask a Toad what is Beauty, the supremely
beautiful, the TO KALON ! He will tell you, it is my
Wifcy — with two large eyes projecting out of her little
head, a broad and flat neck, yellow belly, and dark
brown Back. — With a Guinea Negro, it is a greasy
black skin, hollow eyes and a flat nose. — Put the
question to the Devil, and he will tell you, that
Beauty is a pair of -Horns, four Claws, and a Tail." —
Voltaire's Fliilos. Diet. 8vo. p. 32.
Assafxtida was called by the Ancients, " Food for
the Gods." The Persians, Indians, and other
Eastern people, now eat it in Sauces, and call it by
that name: — the Germans call ic " Dexil's Dung" —
Vide PoMET on Drugs.
Garlick, and Clove, or Allspice, combined in certain
proportions, produce a flavour very similar to Assa-
foetida.
The organ of Taste is more rarely found in perfec-
tion, and is sooner spoiled by the operations of Time,
excessive use, &c. than either of our other senses.
There are as various degrees of sensibility of Palate,
as there are of gradations of perfection in the Eyes and
* See Chapter xv. " Chaque Pays, chaqiie Coutiime."~Cours Castrono-
mique, 8vo. I8O9, p. l62.
62 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
Ears of Painters and Musicians: — after all the pains
which the Editor has taken to explain the Harmony ol
subtle relishes, — without nature has given the Orgart of
Taste in a due degree, this book will, alas ! no more make
an OsBORN * — than it can a Reynolds — or an Arne.
Where nature has been most bountiful of this
faculty, its sensibility is so easily blunted, — by a
variety of unavoidable circumstances, — that the
Tong-ue, is very seldom, in the highest condition for
appreciating delicate flavours, or accurately estimating,
the relative force, of the various materials, the Cook
employs in the composition of an harmonious relish; —
Cooks express this refinement of Combination by
saying, a well finished Ragout *' tastes of every thing,
and tastes of nothing:" (this is " kitchen gibberish," for
a Sauce in whicli the component parts arc,' well
proportioned).
However delicately sensitive nature may have
formed the or;jans of Taste, — it is only during those
few happy moments, — that they are perfectly awake,
nnd in p-rfect good humour — (alas! how very seldom
they are) that the most accomplished and experienced
Cook, lias a chance, of working with any degree of
certainty, witp.out the auxiliary tests of the balance
and the measure : — by the help of these, when you are
once right, it is your own fault if yow arc ever
otherwise.
The sense of Taste, depends much on the health of
the Individual, and is hardly ever for a single hour, in
• Coek to Sir Jusepu Banks, Bart., late Prcsi(K'n! of ilie liojal Society.
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 63
the same state, — - such is the extremely intimate
sympathy, between the Stomach and the TongMie, that
in proportion as the former is Empty*, the latter is
acute and sensitive : — this is the cause that " good
Appetite is the best Sauce" — and that the dish we find
relishing and savoury at Luncheon, — is insipid at
Dinner, — and at Supper quite tasteless.
To taste any thing in perfection, the Tongue must be
moistened, or the substance applied to it contain
moisture — the nervous papilla which constitute this
sense are roused to still more lively sensibility by Salt
— Sugar — Aromatics, &c.
If the Palate becomes dull by repeated tasting, one
of the best ways of refreshing it — is to masticate an
Apple, or to wash your mouth well with JMilk. See
p. 19.
The incessant Exercise of Tasting, which a Cook is
obliged to submit to during the Education of her
Tongue, — frequently impairs the very faculty she is
trying to improve. " 'Tis true —'tis pity — and pity
'tis," (says a grand Gourmand,) " 'tis true, — her too
anxious perseverance to penetrate the mysteries of
Palatics, may diminish the tact, exhaust the power and
destroy the Index Vvithout which all her labour is in
vain."
* " Son Diner sera tonjours une pi^ce en trois actes, ou la gradation des
saveuis suivra celle qu' Aristote present pour I'interet I lientral.
" II faut preparer avec art les jonissances du gourmand; Le Premier
service doit ttre doiix et feu epici ; c'est I'acte d'exposition : T.e Second —
plus iiiteressant, plus releve : Le Troisieme, appeler ensuite a son secours le
Sucre et I'atnbrosie, s'armer des brulaiis aroniates, des spiritueux volaliles, ft
<emp^rer de tpmps en temps leur energie par la fraicliPur des fniiti
savouienx." — Court Gastronomique, p. 67 and 312.
64 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
Therefore, a sagacious Cook, instead of idly and
wantonly wasting the excitability of her Palate — on
the sensibility of which, her reputation and fortune
depends, when she lias ascertained the relative
strength of the flavour of the various ingredients she
employs, will call in the Balance and the Measure, to
do the ordinary business, and endeavour to preserve
her Organ of Taste, with the utmost care, that it may
be a faithful Oracle, to refer to, on Grand occasions,
and new Compositions*, — of these an ingenious Cook
may form as endless a variety, as a Musician with his
seven notes, or a Painter with his colours: — read
chapters 7 and 8 of the Rudiments of Cookery.
• " The diversities of Tasti- are so many arn' so considerable, that it seeraeth
strange to see the matter treated of, both by Philosophers and I'hysicians with
so much scantiness and delect: for the tubject is not barren, but yieldeth
mnch a';d pleasant variety, and doth also appear to be^ of great importance."
— Fiom Dr. Crew's Anatomy of Plants, fol. 1682, p. 286. The Dr.
enumerates sixteen ^ilnple tastes: however, it is ditficult to define more than
fix. — Is-t. Bitter as Wormwood. 2d. Sweet as Sugar. 3d. Sour as Vinegar.
4th. Salt as Brine. 5th. Cold as Ice. 6th. Hot as Brandy. Compound
lastcs, inuuiiierable, may be foimed by the conibiaatioD of these simple tastes
— as words are of letters."
" Si I'association de certaiiies couleors plaisent ^ I'oeil, tandis que d'autres
choqueiit la vue, <le meme ceitaiues saveurs mariees ensemble flatlent le goGt,
tandis que d'autres repugnent au palais : ainsi le jaune et le violet, le vert
avec le rose font un elfet agreable; le bleu perd sa nuance quand il est mis
sur du vert: ainsi le sucre s'aliie ires-bien avec Ics alimens doux, acides on
amers; mais il ne peut s'ascocier avec les substances salees : on doit done
etudier ces convenances. Je vais plus loin ; il faut savoir que dans la bonche,
les organes du gout, disiribues sur diHerens points, ne sont pas tous afl'ecies
par les meuies saveurs. Le pimeut, par exemple, piq te principalement les
bords lateraux de la langue ; la canelle slitnule specialement le bout de ce
meme muscle; le poivre fait sentir son ardeur sur le milieu, les amers dans
Je fond de la bouche, les spiritueux au palais, et sur les joues ; il est meme
des substances qui ne sont sapides que dans le gosier, et d'autres d::ns
I'esloinar." — Cours Gastronomique, p. Q5.
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 65
Receive as the highest testimonies of your Employer's
regard, whatever observations they may make on your
work — such admonitions are the most vnequiiocal
proofs, of their desire to make you thoroughly under-
stand their taste — and their wish to retain you in
their service — or they would not take the trouble to
teach you.
Enter into all their plans of Economy*, and endeavour
to make the most of every thing, as well for your own
honour as your master's profit — take care that the
Meat which is to make its appearance again in the
Parlour, is handsomely cut with a sharp knife — and
put on a clean dish — take care of the Gravy, see
(No. 326,) which is left, it will save many pounds of
Meat in making sauce for Hashes, Poult ry, and many
little dishes.
Many things may be re-dressed, in a different form,
from that in which they were first served, and improve
the appearance of the table without increasing the
expense of it.
Cold Fish,— Soles— Cod— Whitings— Smelts, &c.
may be cut into bits, and put into Escallop Shells —
with cold Oyster, Lobster, or Shrimp Sauce, and
bread crumbled and put into \ Dutch Oven, and
browned like scalloped Oysters. (No. 182.)
The best way To warm cold Meat is to sprinkle
the joint over with a little salt, put in a Dutch Oven,
at some distance before a gentle fire, that it may warm
» "I am persuaded that no Servant ever saved her Master sixpence, but she
found it in the end in her own pocket." — Tkusler's Domestic Manage-
ment, p. 11.
66 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
gradually — watch it carefully, and keep turning it till
it is quite hot and brown ; it will take from twenty
minutes to three quarters of an hour, according to its
thickness— serve it up with Gravy; — this is much better
than Hashing it, and by doing it nicely, a Cook will get
great credit. Poultry, (No. 530*.); Fried Fish,
(See No. 145.) &c. may be re dressed in this way.
Take care of the Liquor you have boiled Poultry or
Meat in : in five minutes you make it into excellent
So IP — see Ohs. to (No. 555.) and 229, No. 5, and the
7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery.
No good Housewife has any pretensions to Rational
Economy who boils Animal food without converting
the Broth into some sort of Soup.
However highly the uninitiated in the Mystery of Soup
making — may elevate the external appendage of his
Olfactory Organ at the mention of " Pot Liquor," if
he tastes (No. 5, or 218, 555, &c.), he will be as well
pleased with it, as a Frenchman is with " I'otage a la
Camerani," of which it is said " a single spoonful will
lap the Palate in Elysium, — and while a drop of it
remains on the Tongue, each other sense is eclipsed
by the voluptuous thrilling of the Lingual nerves ! !"
Broth of Fragments. — When you dress a large
Dinner, you may make good Broth, or Portable Soup,
(No. 252.) at vert/ amall cost, by taking care of all the
trimmings and parings of the meat, game, and poultry
you are going to use ; wash them well, and put them
into a stewpari, with as much cold water as will cover
them ; set your stewpan on a hot fire ; when it boils,
take "off all the scum, and set it on ag:ain to simmer
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 67
gently; put in two carrots, two turnips, a large onion,
three blades of pounded mace, and a head of celery ;
some mushroom parings will be a great addition. Let
it continue to simmer gently four or five hours, strain
it through a sieve into a clean basin. This will save a
great deal of expense in buying Gravy Meat.
Have the Dust, &c. removed regularly once in a
fortnight, — and have your Kitchen Chimney swept
once a month ; — many good Dinners have been
spoiled and many houses burnt down by the soot
falling — the best security against this, is for the Cook
to have a long birch broom, and every morning brush
down all the soot within reach of it. — Give notice to
your employers when the contents of your Coal
Cellar are diininished to a chaldron.
It will be to little purpose to procure good Provi-
vions, — v/ithout you have proper Utensils* to prepare
them in : the most expert Artist cannot perform his
work in a perfect manner without proper instruments ;
— you cannot have neat work — without nice tools, nor
can you dress Victuals well — without an apparatus
appropriate to the work required. See 1st page of
Chapter Vil. of the Rudiments of Cookery.
In those houses where the Cook enjoys the confi-
dence of her employer so much as to be intrusted with
the care of the store-room, which is not very common^
she unli keep an exact account of every thing as it comes in,
and insist upon the weight and price being fixed to every
* " A Surgeon may as well attempt to make an incision with a pair of
Sheers, or open a vein with an Oyster-Knife, as a Cook pretend to dress a
Dinner wiihotit proper Tools." — Verrall's Cookery, 8vo. 1759, p. vi.
68 FRIExNDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
article she purchases — and occasionally — will (and it
may not be amiss, to jocosely drop a hint to those who
supply them — that she does) re^ueigh them, for her
own satisfaction, as well as that of her employer, and
will not trust the key of this room to any one ; she will
also keep an account of every thing she takes from it,
and manage with as much consideration and frugality
as if it was her own property she was using, endea-
vouring to disprove the adage, that " plenty makes
Waste," and remembering that '• wilful waste makes
woefal want."
The honesty of a Cook must be above all suspicion :
she must obtain, and, {in spite of the nujubcrkss Tempta-
tions, S^'C. that daily ofer to bend her from it,) preserve
a character of spotless Integrity, and useful Industry*,
remembering that it is the fair price of In depen de:n ce,
which all wish for, but none without it can hope for;
onli/ a Fool or a Madman will be so silly or so crazy, as to
expect to reap, where he has been too idle to sow.
• Many Cooks miss excellent opportui.itics of making ihemselves inde-
pendent,— by their Idlene?s,— in lefiising any place, however profitable, &c.
if there is not a Kitchen Maid kept to wait upon ihem.
There are maiiy Invaliils wlio require a good Cook, and as (after reading
tliis Book they will understand how much) their comfort and effective
existence depends on their food being properly prepared, will willingly pay
handsome wages — (who would not rather pay the Cook than the Doctor?) —
bat have so little work in the Kitchen — that one person may do it all with
the utmost ease, wiihout injury t<» their health, — which is not the case in a
large family, where the poor Cook is roasting and stewing all day — and is
often deprived of her rest at night. No artists have greater need to " make
Hay while the Sun shines," and timely provide for the infirmities of Age.
It is melancholy to fm^l, that according to the authority of a certain gicat
French author — " Cooks, half stewed, and half roasted, when unable to work
any longer, generally retire to some unknown corner, and die in forlornness
and want." — Blackwood's Edhib. Mag. vol. vii. p. 668.
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 69
Very few modern built Town houses have a proper
place to preserve provisions in — the best substitute, is
a Hanging-safe, which you may contrive to suspend
in an airy situation, and when you order Meat,
Poultry, or Fish, tell the Tradesman when you intend
to dress it, — he will then have it in his power to serve
you with provision that will do him credit, which the
finest Meat, &c. in the world, will never do, unless it
has been kept a proper time to be ripe and tender.
If you have a well-ventiiated Larder, in a shady,
dry situation, you may make still surer, by ordering in
your Meat and Poultry, such a time before you want
it as will render it tender, which the finest meat cannot
be, unless hung a proper time ; (see 2d Chapter of the
Rudiments of Cookery ;) according to the season, and
nature of the meat, &c., but always as " les bons
hommes de bouche de France,'' say, till it is '* assez
mortifiee."
Permitting this process to proceed to a certain
degree, renders Meat much more easy of solution in
the Stomach, and /or those whose digestive faculties are
delicate, it is of the ufniost importance, that it be attended to
with the greatest nicety, — for the most consummate skill
in the Culinary preparation of it, will not compensate
the want of attention to this. Read Obs. to No. 68.
Meat that is thoroughly Roasted, or Boiled, eats much
shorter and tenderer, and is in proportion more
digestible, than that which is under done.
You will be enabled to manage much better, if your
Employers will make out a Bill of Fare for the
70 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOK1?.
AVeek, oa the Saturday before — for example for a
Family of half a dozen —
Sundai/ Roast Beef (No. ig.)* and My Pudding (No. 551.)
Mondinj ....Fowl (Nos. l6, 58.) Do. boiled.
Tuesday ....Calf Head (No. 10.) Apple Pic.
Wed ncsda I/.. Leg of Mutton (No. 1.), oi (No. 23.)
Thursday ..Do. broiled or hashed (No. 487.), or (No. 484.), Pan Cakus.
Friday Fish (No. 145.). Pudding (No. 554.)
Saturday ..Fish, or Eggs and Bacon (No. 545.)
It is an excellent plan to have certain things on certain
days — When your Butcher or Poulterer knows v.'hat you
will want, he has a better chance of doing his best for
you: and never think of ordering Beef for Roasting
— except for Sunday.
H'hen the IVcather or Season* is lery unj'axourahle for
keeping Meat, SfC. — give him the choice of sending that
which is in the best order for dressing — i. e. either Ribs
or Sir-Loin of Beef — or Leg — Loin — or Neck of
Mutton, &c.
Meat in which you can detect the slightest trace of
putrcscency, has reached its highest degree of tender-
ness, and should be dressed without delay ; but before
• " The Season of the year has considerable influence on the quality of
£utchcr meat — depending upon the more or less plentiful supply of Food,
upon the periodical change whicli takes place in the body of the Animal, and
upon temperature. The flesh of most full grown Quadrupeds is in highest
seaaoii during the first months of Winter, after having enjoyed (he advantage
of the abundance of fresh summer food. lis flavour then begins to be injured
by the turnips, &c. given as winter food, and in Spring it gets lean fioni
deficiency of food. Although Beef and Mutton are never absolutely out of
seiison, or not fit for the table, they are best in November, December, and
.l.muary. Pork is absolutely bad, except during the Winter." — Sufpler.ient
to the Edinburgh Ency. Brit. p. 3C8.
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 71
this period, which in some kinds of meat is offensive,
the due degree of inteneration may be ascertained, by
its yielding readily to the pressure of the finger, and by
its opposing little resistance to an attempt to bind the
joint.
Although we strongly recommend that Animal Food
should be hung up in the open air, till its fibres have
lost some degree of their toughness — yet, let us be
clearly understood, also to warn you — that if kept till
it loses its natural sweetness — it is as detrimental to
Health, as it is disagreeable to the Smell and Taste.
In very cold weather — bring your Meat,
Poultry, &c. into the kitchen, early in the mornino- —
if you roast — boil — or stew it ever so gently and
ever so long — if it he frozen — it will continue touo-h
and unchewable.
Without very watchful attention to this, the most
skilful Cook in the world will get no credit, be she ever
so careful in the management of her Spit or her
Stewpan.
The time Meat should hang to be tender — depends on
the heat and humidity of the air : if it is not kept
long enough, it is hard and tough ; — if too long, it
loses its flavour : — it should be hung where it will
have a thorough air, and be dried with a cloth night
and morning, to keep it from damp and raustiness.
Before you dress it, wash it well, — if it is roasting
Beef, pare off the outside.
If you fear Meat% &c. will not keep till the time it
Larbers, Pantries and Safes— must be sheltered from the Suu, and
72 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
is wanted, — par-ro:ist or par-ho'i\ it, — it will then keep
a couple of days longer, when it may be dressed in
the usual way, only it will be done in rather less.
time.
The Cook and the Butcher as often lose their
credit, by Meat being dressed too fresh, as the Fish-
monger does by fish that has been kept too long.
Dr. Franklin in his philosophical experiments tells
us, that if Game or Poultry be killed by Electricity
it will become tender in the twinkling of an eye, and if
it be dressed immediately, will be delicately tender.
During the su/try summer months, it is almost
impossible to procure meat that is not either tough —
or tainted — the former, is as improper as the latter for
the unbraced stomachs of relaxed Valetudinarians —
for whom, at this season. Poultry — Stews, &c., and
Vegetable Soups, are the most suitable food — when
the digestive organs are debilitated by the extreme
heat — and profuse perspiration requires an increase
of liquid to restore equilibrium in the constitution.
I have taken much nturc pains than aity of my predeces-
sors, to teach the young Cook how to perform, in the best
manner, the common business of her profession; — being
well grounded in the RUDIMENTS of COOKERY,
olhtrwise removed from the heat, be dry, and if possible have a current of
dry, cool air continually passing through them.
"The freezing temperature, i. e. 32 degrees of Fahrenheit, is a perfect
preservative from putrefaction — warm moist muggy weather is the worst for
keeping meat. — The south \^ind is especially unfavourable, and lightning
is quickly destructive; but the greatest Enemy you have to encounter,
is the IKsh-lly, which becomes troublesome about the month of May, and
continues so till towards Michaelmas." — For further Obs. on this subject*
See " The Experienced Butcher," p. l6().
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 73
she will be able to execute the orders that are given
her, with ease to herself, and satisfaction to her
Employers, and send up a delicious dinner, with half
the usual Expense and Trouble.
I have endeavoured to lessen the labour, of those
who wish to be thoroughly acquainted with their
profession ; and an attentive perusal of the following
pages, will save them much of the irksome drudgery,
attending an apprenticeship at the Stove; — an ordeal
so severe, that few pass it without irreparable injury
to their Health*; and many lose their lives, before
they learn their business.
To encourage the best performance of the machinery
of Mastication, the Cook must take care that her
Dinner is not only well cooked — but that each dish
be sent to table, with its proper accompaniments — in
the neatest, and most elegant manner.
Remember, to excite the good opinion of the Eye,
is the first step towards awakening the Appetite.
Decoration is much more rationally employed, in
rendering a plain wholesome nutritious dish inviting,
than in the elaborate embellishments which are
crowded about Trifles and Custards.
Endeavour to avoid orer-dressing Roasts and Boils,
&c. and orer-seasoning Soups and Sauces with Salt,
Pepper, &c. — it is a fault which cannot be mended.
* " Bny it with health, strength, and reiolution.
And pay for it, a robust constitutiou."
Preface to the Ctwk's Cookery, 1758,
See the preface to " The Cook's Cookery," page 9. This work, which is very
scarce, was, we believe, written to develope the mistakes in what He calls
" the Thousand Errors," L e. " The Lady's Cookery," i. e. Mrs. Glasse's, i. e.
Sir John Hill's.
/4 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
If your Roasts, &c. are a little tnider-done; with the
assistance of the Stevvpan, — the Gridiron, — or the
Dutch Oven, you may soon rectify the mistake made,
— with the Spit or the Pot.
If oiTr-done, the best juices of the Meat are evapo-
rated,— it will serve merely to distend the Stomach,
and if the sensation of Huufrer be removed, it is at the
price of an Indigestion.
The chief business of Cookery, is to render food
easy of Digestion — and to facilitate Nutrition. This
is most completely accomplished by Plain Cookery in
perfection— i. e. neither over nor vnder-ilione.
With all your care, you will not get much credit by
Cooking to perfection, if more than One Dish goes to
table at a time.
To l)e eaten in perfection, the interval between Meat
being taken out of the Stevvpan, and its being put into
the Mouth, must be as short as possible : — but Cere-
mony, that most formidable enemy to good Cheer, too
often decrees it otherwise, and the Guests seldom get
a bit of an " Entrcmtt' till it is half cold. (See
No. 485.)
So much time is often lost in placing every thing in
Apple-pie order, — that long before Dinner is an-
nounced, all becomes lukewarm, — and to complete
the mortification of the grand Gourmand, his meat is
put on a sheet of Ice in the shape of a Plate, which
instantly converts the Gravy into Jelly, and the Fat
into a something which puzzles his teeth and the roof
of his mouth as much as if he had Birdlime to masti-
cate : — a complete Meat Skreen will answer the pur-
pose of a Hot closet Plate uarmer, &c, — r See Index.
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 75
It will save you infinite trouble and anxiety, if you
can prevail on your employers to use the '* sauce-eox,"
No. 463, hereinafter described in the chapter of Sauces.
With the help of this " Magazine of Taste/' every
one in company may flavour their Soup and Sauce, and
adjust the vibrations of their Palate, exactly to their
own fancy : — but if the Cook give a decidedly predo-
minant, and pi(jiianie gout to a dish, to tickle the
Tongue of two or three visitors, whose taste she knows,
— she may thereby make the Dinner disgusting to all
the other guests.
Never i/nderfake more work than you are quite cer-
tain you can do uell ; — if you are ordered to pre-
pare a larger Dinner than you think you can send
up with ease and neatness, — or to dress any dish
that you are not acquainted with, rather than run any
risk of spoiling any thing — (by one fault. You may
perhaps lose all your credit) — request your em-
ployers to let you have some help. — They may acquit
you for pleading guilty of inability — but if you
make an attempt, and fail, will vote it a capital
<3fFence.
Do not trust any part of your work to others "without
carefully overlooking them ; whatever faults they com-
mit, You will be censured for — if you have forgotten
any article which is indispensable for the day's dinner,
request your employers to send one of the other
servants for it. — The Cook must never quit her Post,
till her work is entirely finished.
It requires the utmost skill and contrivance to have
all things done as they should be, and all done to-
E 2
76 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
gether — at that critical momoit when the Dinner Bell
sounds — " to the Banquet."
" A feast must be without a fault ;
And if, 'tis uot all ritrlit, 'tis naueht."
But
" Good natare will some failings overlook,
Forgive mischance, not errors of the Cook;
As, if no salt is thrown about the tlisii,
Or nice crisp'd parsley scattei-'d on the fish ;
Shall we in Passion from our Dinner fly.
And hopes of pardon to the Cook deny,
For things which Mrs. Glasse herself might oversee.
And all mankind commit as well as she?"
\'ide King's Art of Cooker v-
Such is the endless variety of Culinary preparations,
it would be as vain and fruitless a search, as that for
the Philosopher's Stone, to expect to find a Cook who
is quite perfect in all the operations of the Spit, — the
Stevvpan, — and the Rolling Pin; — you will as soon
find a Watchmaker who can make, put together, and
regulate every part of a Watch.
" The universe cannot produce that Cook who
knows how to do every branch of Cookery well, be his
Genius as great as possible." — Vide the Cook's Cooker]/,
8vo. page 40.
The best rule for marketing, is to pa?/ ready
MONEY for every thing, and to deal uith the moat
respectable Tradesmen in your neighbourhood.
If you leave it to their integrity to supply you with
a good article, at the fair market price, — I have, from
my own experience, — every reason to believe, you wiW
be supplied with better Provisions, and at as reasonable
a rate, as those Bar gain- Hunters, who trot " around
around around about " a market till they are trapped to
1?R1ENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 77
buy some vnchewahte old Poultry — tough Tup-Mutton — -
stringy Cow-Beef — or stale unseasonable Fish* — at a
very little less than the price of prime and proper
food: — with savings like these, they toddle home in
triumph, cackling; all the way, like a Goose, that has
got ankle deep into good luck.
All the skill of the most accomplished Cook will
avail nothino-, unless she is furnished with prime
PROVISIONS. The best way to procure these is to deal
with shops of established character; — you may pay,
perhaps. Ten per Cent more than you would were you
to deal with those who pretend to sell cheap — but you
will be more than in proportion better served.
Every Trade has its tricks and deceptions, — those
who follow them can deceive you if they please, — and
they are too apt to do so, if you provoke the exercise
of their over-reaching talent f.
Challenge them to a game at " Catch who Can,^' by
entirely relying on your own judgment: and you will
soon find nothing but very long experience can make
you equal to the combat of marketing to the utmost
advantage.
• See the Marketing Tables at the end of the Work.
t " He who will not be cheated a little, — must be content to he abused
a great deal; the first lesson in the art of comfortable Economy, is to learn
to submit cheerfully to small impositions,— if you do not, you will continually
be in hot water.
" If you think a tradesman has imposed upon you, never use a second word,
if the first will not do— nor drop the least hint of an imposition :— the only
method to induce him to make an abatement, is the hope of future favours, —
pay the demand — and deal with the Gentleman no more; — but do not let him
see that you are displeased, or as soon as you are out of sight, — your Repji-
tation will suffer as much as your Pocket has."— Trusler's Way to be Rich,
Svo. 1776. p. 85.
78 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS,
Before you go to Market, look over your Larder, and
consider well what things are wanting — especially on
a Saturday. No well-regulated family can suffer a
disorderly Caterer, to be jumping in and out to the
Chandler's Shop on a Sunday morning.
Give your directions to your assistants, and begin
your Business early in the Morning, or it will be
impossible to have the Dinner ready at the time it is
ordered.
To be half an hour after the time, is such a frequent
fault, that there is the more merit in being ready at the
appointed hour. This is a difficult task, and in the
best regulated family you can only be sure of your
time by proper arrangements.
With all our love of punctuality, we must not forget
that the first consideration must still be, that the
Dinner '* be well done when 'tis done." — If any accident
occurs, which is likely to prevent your sending the
Soup, &c. to table at the moment it is expected, send
up a message to your employers, stating the circum-
stance, and bespeak their patience for as many minutes
as you think you shall want to be ready. — This is
better than either keeping the Company waiting
without an apology ; or dishing your Dinner before it
is done enough, and so disgusting the Stomachs of the
guests at the first appearance of it.
Those who desire regularity in the service of th'^ir
table, should have a DIAL of about twelve inches
diameter, placed over the Kitchen fire-place, carefully
regulated, to keep time exactly with the clock in the
Hall or dining Parlour; — with a frame on one side.
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. /9
containing a taste table, of the peculiarities of the
master's palate, and the particular rules and orders of
his Kitchen ; — and on the other side, of the rewards
given to those who attend to them, and for long and
faithful service.
Ill S77iaU Fatnilies where a Dinner is seldom given —
a great deal of preparation is required, and the pre-
ceding day must be devoted to the business of the
Kitchen.
On these occasions a Chair-woman is often employed
to do the dirty work ; but we rather advise you to hire
a Cook to help to dress the Dinner — this would be
very little more expense — and the work got through
much better.
When you have a very large Entertainment
to prepare, get your Soups and Sauces, Force-
meats, &c. ready the day before — and read the 7th
Chapter of our Rudiments of Cookery: — many Made
Dishes may also be prepared the day before they are
to go to table — but do not do them quite enough the
first day — that they may not be overdone by warming
up again.
Prepare every thing you can, the day before the
Dinner, and order every thing else to be sent in early
in the Morning — if the Tradesmen forget it — it will
allow you time to send for it.
The Pastry, — Jellies, &c. you may prepare while
the Broths are doing : then truss your Game and Poul-
try,—and shape your Collops, Cutlets, &c., — and trim
them neatly — cut away all Flaps and Gristles^ S^c. — No-
thing should go to Table but what has indisputable preten-
sions to be eaten !
80 FRIENDLY ADVH E TO COOKS.
Put your MADE Dishes in plates, and arrange them
upon the dresser in regular order : — next see that your
Roasts and Boils are all nicely trimmed, trussed, &c.
and quite ready for the Spit or the Pot.
Have your Vegetables neatly cut, pared, picked,
and clean washed in the cullender : — provide a tin dish
with partitions to hold your fine herbs ; Onions and
Shallots —Parsley — Thyme — Tarragon— Chervil — and
Burnet — minced xery jine^ and Lemon peel grated,
or cut thin, and chopped very small, — Pepper and
Salt ready mixed, — and your Spice-box and Salt-cellar
always ready for action, — that every thing you want
may be at hand for your Stove-work, — and not be scam-
pering about the kitchen in a whirlpool of confusion,
hunting after these trifles, while the Dinner is waiting.
In one drawer under your Spice-Box, keep ready
ground, in well stopped Bottles, the several spices
separate ; and also that mixture of them which is
called " Ragout Powder:" (No. 457.), or (No. 460.)—
in another, keep your dried and powdered, Sweet, —
Savoury, — and Soup-herbs, &:c., and a set of weights
and scales : — you may have a third drawer, containing
Flavouring Essences, &c., an invaluable auxiliary
in finishing soups and sauces : (see the account of
the " Magazine of Taste," or " Sauce-Box,"
(No. 463.)
Have also ready, some thickening, made of the
best white flour sifted, mixed with soft water with a
wooden spoon till it is the consistence of thick batter, —
a bottle of plain Browning (No. 322.), some strained
Lemon-juice, and some good Glaze, or Portable
Soup, (No. 252.)
FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 81
Nothing can be done in perfection^ that must be done in
a hurry ; — therefore, if you wish the dinner to be sent
up to please your Master and Mistress, and do credit
to yourself, set a high value on your character for
punctuality : this shows the establishment is orderly,
is extremely gratifying to the Master and his Guests,
— and is most praiseworthy in the Attendants.
But, remember, you cannot obtain this desirable
reputation, without good management in every respect;
—if you wish to ensure Ease and Independence in the
latter part of your life, you must not be unwilling to
pay the price for which only they can be obtained,
and earn them by a diligent and faithful* performance
of the duties of your station in your young days,
which, if you steadily persevere in, you may depend
upon ultimately receiving the reward your services
deserve.
All Duties are reciprocal; and if you hope to receive
favour, — endeavour to deserve it — by showing yourself
fond of obliging, and grateful when obliged — such
Behaviour will win regard and maintain it, enforce
what is right, and excuse what is wrong.
Quiet steady Perseverance, is the only sure spring
* N. B. " If You will take half the pains, to deserve the regard of yon r
master, by being a good and faithful servant, you take to be considered
a good fellow-servaut, so many of you would not, in the decline of life, be
left destitute of those comforts which age requires, nor have occasion to quote
the saying that, " Service is no inheritance," unless your own misconduct
makes it so.
"The idea of being called a Tell-tale, has occasioned many good servants
to shut their Eyes against the frauds of fellow-servants. — In the eye of the
Jaw, persons standing by and seeing a felony committed, which they conld
have prevented, are held equally guilty v/ith those committing it." — Dr. Trus-
LER's Domestic Management, p. 12, and Instructions to Servants,
e5
82 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS.
which you can safely depend upon to infallibly pro-
mote your progress on the road to Independence.
If your employers do not immediately appear to be
sensible of your endeavours to contribute your utmost
to their comfort and interest, be not easily dis-
couraged ; — Persciere, and do all in your power to
MAKE YOURSELF tJSEFUL.
Endeavour to promote the Comfort of every Indivi-
dual in the Family — let it be manifest, that you are
desirous, to do rather more than is required of you,
than less than your duty — they merit little who perform
merely what would be exacted — if you are desired to
help in any business which may not strictly belong to
your department — undertake it Cheerfully, Patiently,
and Conscientiouslv.
TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES,
To reduce our Culinary Operations to as exact a
certainty, as the nature of the processes would admit
of;— we have, wherever it \7as needful, given the Quan-
tities of each article.
The Weights, are Avoirdupois.
The Measure, — the graduated glass of the Apo-
thecaries; this appeared the most accurate and con-
venient;— the Pint being divided into sixteen ounces,
the Ounce into eight drachms. A middling size Tea-
spoon will contain about a Drachm; — four such Tea-
spoons are equal to a middling size Tablespoon, or halt
an Ounce; — four Tablespoons to a common sized
IVinei^lass,
The specific gravities of the various substances, being
so extremely different, we cannot offer any auxiliary
standards* for the Weights, which we earnestly re-
commend the Cook to employ, if she wishes to gain
credit for accuracy and uniformity in her business : these
she w^ill find it necessary to have as small as the
quarter of a drachm Avoirdupois, which is equal to
nearly seven grains Troy.
Glass jMeasures, (divided into Tea, and Table-
spoons,) containing from Half an Ounce — to Half a
Pint, — may be had at Price's, near Exeter 'Change,
Strand; where also may be had, — the double
headed pepfer and spice-boxes, with caps over
the gratings. The superiority of these, by preserving
the contents from the action of the air, must be suffi-
ciently obvious to every one : the fine aromatic flavour of
Pepper is soon lost, from the bottles it is usually kept in not
• A large tablespnonful of Flour weighs about half an Onnce.
84 TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
bchig xvelt stopped. Peppers are seldom ground or
pounded sufficiently fine. (See N.B. to 369.)
N.B, The Trough Nutmeg Graters, made by
Brooks, Ironmonjier in Piccadilly, (near Bond Street),
are by far the best we have seen, especially for those
who wish to grate tine, and fast.
Lloyd, furnishincr Ironmonger, Strand, near Norfolk
Street, sells Springs which weigh from an ounce to
20 pounds, for £\ Is.
Lloyd's Balance, which weighs from \ of a
drachm to 20 pounds, is a very accurate and con-
venient machine for weighing.
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
CHAPTER I.
BOILING.
This most simple of Culinary processes is not often
performed in perfection, — it does not require quite so
much nicety and attendance, as Roasting, — to skim
your pot well, and keep it really boiling (the slower the
better) all the while, — to know how long is required
for doing the joint, &c., and to take it up, at the
critical monjent when it is done enough, — comprehends
almost the whole art and mystery. This, however,
demands a patient and perpetual vigilance, of which
few persons are capable.
The Cook must take especial care that the water really
boils all the zvhile she is Cooking, or she will be deceived in
the time ; and make up a sufficient fire (a frugal Cook
will manage with much less fire for Boiling than she
uses for roasting) at first, to last all the time, without
much mending or stirring.
JVhe?i the Pot is coming to a boil, there will always,
from the cleanest Meat and clearest Water, rise a
Scum to the top of it : proceeding partly from the
foulness of the meat, and partly from the Water, — this
must be carefully taken off as soon as it rises.
On this, depends the good appearance of all boiled
things.
When you have scummed well, put in some cold
water, which will throw up the rest of the scum.
The oftener it is scummed, and the cleaner the top
of the Water is kept, the cleaner will be the Meat.
86 BOILING.
If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the
Meat'; which, instead of looking- delicately white and
nice, — will have that coarse and filthy appearance we
have too often to complain of, and the Butcher and
Poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the Cook
in not scumming her pot.
Many put in Mi/k, to make what they boil look
white; but this does more harm than g-ood : — others
wrap it up in a cloth; — but these are needless pre-
cautions, if the scum be attentively removed, Meat will
have a much more delicate colour and finer flavour
than it has when muffled up. This may give rather
more trouble — but These u/io -wish to excel w their Art
must only consider how the processes of it can he most
perfectly peifurmeci ; — a Cook who has a proper pride
and pleasure in her business, will iv.ake this her maxim
on all occasions.
Put your Meat into colJi water, — in the proportion
of about a quart of Water to a pound of Meat : — it
should be covered with water during the whole of the
process of Boiling — but not drowned in it — the less
water, provided the meat be covered with it, — the more
Savoury will be the Meat, and the better will be the
Broth.
The Jl'ater should he healed gradually ~ according to
the thickness, &c. of the article boiled — for instance, a
Leg of Mutton of 10 pounds weight, (No. 1.), should
be placed over a moderate fire, which will gradually
make the uater hot, uithout causing it to hoii for ahout
forty minutes — if the water boils much sooner, the
meat will be hardened, and shrink up as if it was
scorched — by keeping the water a certain time heating
without boiling, its tibres are dilated, and it yields a
♦ If, unfortuna'.ely, this should happen, the Cook must carefully take it off
^hen she dishes up, either with a cleHD Sponge or a Paste-brusli.
t Cooks, however, as will as Ucctors, disagree; for some ssy, that ** ail
sorts of fresh meat should be put m when the water boils." 1 prefer the
above method, for the reason given — ger.tle slewii g renders Meat, &c. It-Jider,
and ttill leave* it sapid and nutritive.
BOILING. 87
quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon as
it rises.
" 104. If a vessel containing water be placed over a
steady Fire, the Water will grow continually hotter till it
reaches the limit of boiling, after which the regular ac-
cessions of heat, are wholly spent in converting it into
Steam — the Water remains at the same pitch of tem-
perature, however fiercely it boils. The only differ-
ence is, that with a strong fire it sooner comes to boil,
and more quickly boils away, and is converted into
Steam." — Buchanan on the Economi/ of Fuel, 1810.
The Editor placed a Thermometer in water in that
state which Cooks call gentle simmtring, — the heat
was 212^ — i. e. the same degree as the strongest boiling.
Two Mutton Chops were covered with cold water,
— and one boiled a gallop — and the other .simmered
gently for three quarters of an hour — the Flavour of the
Chop which was simmered was decidedly superior
to that which was boiled — the Liquor which boiled
fast, was in like proportion more savoury, and, when
cold, had much more fat on its surface : — this ex-
plains why quick boiling renders meat hard, &c. — be-
cause its juices are extracted in a greater degree.
Reckon the Time /ro/« its Jirst coming to a boil.
The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat, we
think rather too little; — the slower it boils, the ten-
derer,— the plumper, — and whiter it will be.
For those who choose their Food thoroughly cooked
— which all will who have any regard for their Stomachs
— Twenty minutes to a Pound will not be found
too much for gentle sinnnering by the side of the fire ; —
allowing more or less time, according to the thickness
of the Joint, and the coldness of the Weather, — always
remembering, the slower it boils the better.
Without some practice it is difficult to teach any
art; and Cooks seem to suppose, they must be right,
if they put meat into a pot, and set it over the fire for
88 BOILING.
a certain time, — making no allowance, whether it
simmers witliout a bubble, or boils a gallop.
Fresh- killed Meat will take much longer time boiling
than that which has been kept till it is what the
butchers call ripe, — and longer in cold than in 7iarm
weather; — if it he frvzcn, it must be thawed before
boiling as before roasting; — if it be fresh killed, it will
be tough and hard, if you .st&w it ever so long, and erer
so gently. — In cold weather, the night before the day
you dress it, bring it into a place of which the tempe-
rature is not less than 45 degrees of Fahrenheit's
thermometer.
'J'he Size of the Boiling Pots should be adapted to
what they are to contain : — the larger the Saucepan —
the more room it takes up on the fire, and a larger
quantity of Water requires a proportionate increase of
Fire to boil it.
In Small Families, we recommend BLOCK TIN
saucepans, &c. as lightest, and safest; — if proper care
is taken of them, and they are w^ell dried after they are
cleaned, tlu-y are by far the cheapest; — the purchase
of a ne^v Tin saucepan being little more than the ex-
pense of tinning a Copper one.
Take care that the Covers of your boiling pots fit
close, not only to prevent unnecessary evaporation of
the water, but that the smoke may not insinuate itself
under the edge of the lid, and give the meat a bad taste.
If you let meat or poultry remain in the water
after it is done enough, it will become sodden, and
lose its flavour.
Beef and IMuttox a little under-done (especially
very large joints, which will make the better Hash or
Broil), is not a great fault — by some people it is pre-
ferred;— but Lawb, — /'orA, — and Feal, are uneatable
if not thoroughly boiled — but do not otf;--do them.
A Trivet, or Fish drainer put on the bottom of the
boiling Pot, raising the contents about an inch and a
BOILING. 89
half from the bottom, will prevent that side of the
meat which comes next the bottom from being done
too much, — and the lower part of the meat will be as
delicately done as the other part ; and this will enable
you to take out the contents of the Pot without sticking
a fork, &c. into it. If you have not a trivet, use four
Skewers, or a Soup-plate laid the wrong side upwards.
Take care of the Liquor you have boiled Poultry or
Meat in ; in Five Minutes you may make it into excel-
lent Soup, see Obs. to (No. 555.) and (No. 229.)
The GOOD Housewife never boils a Joint without
converting the Broth into some sort of Soup, (Read
No. 5, and chapter 7, and see page 66). — If the 1 iquor
be too salt, only use half the quantity, and the rest
water; — wash salted Meat well with cold water be-
fore you put it into the boiler.
An Estimation of the Loss of Weight which takes place
in Cooking Animal Food. — From Mr. Tilloch's
Philosophical Magazine.
" It is well known that, in whatever way the flesh of
animals is prepared for food, a considerable diminution
takes place in its weight. We do not recollect, how-
ever, to have seen any where a statement of the loss
which meat sustains in the various culinary processes,
although it is pretty obvious that a series of experi-
ments on this subject would not be without their use
in domestic economy.
" We shall here give the result of a series of experi-
ments which were actually made on this subject in a
public establishment; premising that, as they were not
undertaken from mere curiosity, but, on the contrary,
to serve a purpose of practical utility, absolute accu-
racy was not attended to. Considering, however, the
large quantities of provisions which were actually ex-
amined, it is presumed that the results may be safely
depended upon for any practical purpose. It would
90 BOILING.
no doubt have been desirable to have known not only
the whole diminution of weight, but also the parts which
were separated from the nieat in the form of aqueous
vapour, jelly, fat, &c. ; but the determination of these
did not fall within the scope of the inquiry.
lli.t. or.t.
28 pieces of beef weighing 280 0
Lost in boiling • 73 14
*' Hence the weight lost by beef in boiling was in
this case about 262lbs. in lOOlbs.
lbs. ozt.
19 pieces of beef weighing 190 0
Lost in roasting 61 2
" The weight lost by beef in roasting appears to be
32 per cent.
lbs. f):t.
9 pieces of beef weighing 90 0
Lost in baking 27 0
" Weight lost by beef in baking, 30 per cent.
lbs. ozf.
27 legs of mutton weighing 260 0
Lost in boiling, and by having ) ^^ 4
the shank-bone taken ofV« • J
" The shank-bones were estimated at^
4 oimces each ; therefore the loss by , 55 8
boiling was J
" The loss of weight in legs of mutton, in boiling, is
21 \ per cent.
lbs. ozs.
35 shoulders of mutton weighing • • 350 0
Lost in roasting 109 10
" The loss of weight in shoulders of mutton, by
roasting, is about 31^ per cent.
lbs. ozs.
16 loins of mutton weighing 141 0
Lost in roasting 49 14
't Hence loins of mutton lose, by roasting, about 35^
per cent.
BOILING. 91
Ihs, ozs.
10 necks of mutton weighing 100 0
Lost in roasting • • • 32 6
" The loss in necks of mutton, by roasting, is about
32 i per cent.
" We shall only draw two practical inferences from
the foregoing statement. — 1st. In respect of economy,
it is more profitable to boil meat than to roast it.
2dly. Whether we roast or boil meat, it loses, by
being cooked, from one-fifth to one-third of its whole
weight."
The loss of Roasting arises from the melting out
of the Fat, and evaporating the water; but the nutri-
tious matters remain condensed in the cooked solid.
In Boiling, the loss arises partly from the fat
melted out, but chiefly from Gelatine and Osmazome
being extracted and dissolved by the water in which
the meat is boiled ; there is, therefore, a real loss of
nourishment unless the Broth be used; — when this
mode of cooking becomes the most economical.
The Sauces usually sent to Table with Boiled
Meat, ^c.
These are to be sent up in Boats, and never poured
over the Meat, &c.*
Gravy for boiled Meat (No. 3C7.)
Parsley and Butter (No. 26l.)
Mock Ditto (No. 262.)
Che.vil (No. C64.)
Caper (No. 274.)
Oyster (No. 278.)
Liver and Parsley (No. 287.)
Celery (No. 289-)
Onion (No. CQii, &c.)
Shallot (No. 295.)
Wow Wow CNo. 328.)
C^irry (^o. 318.)
* The diminution of weight, by Boiling and Roarting, is not all lost — the
Fat Skimmings and the Drippings nicely clarified, v,M well supily the
place of Lard and for Frying. See (No. 83.) and the Receipt for Cheap
Soup, (No. 229.)
92
BAKING.
BAKING.
The following Observations were written expressly
for this work by Mr. Turner, English and French
Bread and Biscuit Baker, the Corner of London
Street and Fitzroy Street, Fitzroy Square.
Baring is one of the cheapest, and most convenient
ways of dressincc a Dinner in small families; and i may
say that the Oven is often the only Kitchen a poor man
has, if he wishes to enjoy a joint of Meat at home with
his family.
I don't mean to deny the superior excellence of
Roasting to Baking; but some joints, when Baked, so
nearly approach to the same wiien Roasted, that I
have known them to be carried to the Table, and
eaten as such with great satisfaction.
Legs, and Loins of Pork ; — Legs of Mutton; —
Fillets of Veal; — and many other joints, will Bake
to great advantage if the meat be good ; I mean well
fed, rather inclined to be fat; — if the meat be poor,
no Baker can give satisfaction.
When baking a joint of poor meat, before it has
been half baked, I have seen it start from the bone,
and shrivel up scarcely to be believed.
Besides those Joints above mentioned, I shall enu-
merate a few Baked dishes, which I can particularly
recommend.
A Pig, when sent to the Baker prepared for Baking,
should have its Ears and Tail covered with buttered
paper properly fastened on, and a bit of Butter tied up
in a piece of linen to baste the back with, otherwise it
will be apt to blister : with a proper share of attention
from the Baker, I consider this way equal to a roasted
one.
BAKING. 93
A Goose prepared the same as for roasting, taking-
care to have it on a stand, and when half done, to tura
the other side upwards. A Duck the same.
A Buttocli of Beef the following way is particularly
fine. After it has been in salt about a week, to be
well washed and put into a brown earthen pan, with a
pint of water; cover the pan tight over with two or
three thicknesses of cap or foolscap Paper — never
cover any thing that is to be baked with Brown paper,
the pitch and tar that is in brown paper will give the
meat a smoky bad taste — give it four or five hours in
a moderate heated oven.
A Ham (if not too old) put in soak for an hour,
taken out and wiped, a crust made sufiicient to cover
it all over, and baked in a moderate heated oven; cuts
fuller of gravy, and of a finer flavour than a boiled one.
I have been in the habit of baking small Cod-fish, —
Haddock, — and Mackarel, with a dust of flour, and
some bits of butter put on them. Eels, when large
and stuffed. Herrings and Sprats, in a brown pan,
with vinegar and a little spice, and tied over with
paper. A FIare, prepared the same as for Roasting,
with a few pieces of Butter, and a little drop of Milk
put into the dish, and Basted several times, will be
found nearly equal to roasting ; or cut it up, season it
properly, put it into a jar or pan, and cover it over
and bake it in a moderate oven for about three hours. —
In the same manner, 1 have been in the habit of baking
Legs and Shins of Beef, — Ox Cheeks, &c. prepared
with a seasoning of Onions, Turnips, &c. : they will
take about four hours : let them stand till cold to skim
off the fat; then warm it up all together, or part,
as you may want it.
All these I have been in the habit of baking for
the first families.
The time each of the above articles should take,
depends much upon the state of the Oven, and I
94 BAKING.
do consider the Baker a sufficient judge ; — if they are
sent to him in time, he n)ust be very neglectful, if they
are not ready at the time they are ordered.
For Receipts for making
Bread,
French Rolls,
Mui TINS,
Crumpets,
Sally Lunn, &:c.
See the Appendix.
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
CHAPTER II.
ROASTING.
In all studies, it is the best practice, to begin with the
plainest and easiest parts ; and so on, by degrees, to
such as are more difficult: we, therefore, treated of
plain Boiling, and we now proceed to Roasting: — we
shall then gradually unravel, to our Culinary students,
the Art, (and mystery, until developed in this work) of
making, with the least trouble and expense, the most
highly finished Made-dishes.
Let the young Cook never forget, that Cleanli-
ness is the chief Cardinal Virtue of the Kitchen; —
the first preparation for Roasting is to take care that
the Spit be properly cleaned with sand and water:
nothing else. — When it has been well scoured with
this, dry it with a clean cloth. If Spits are wiped
elean, as boon as the meat is drawn from them, and whiter
they are hot, a very little cleaning will be reqnired. The
less the Spit is passed through the meat, the better*,
and before you spit it, joint it properly — especially
necks and loins — that the Carver may separate them
easily and neatly, and take especial care it be evenly
balanced on the spit, that its motion may be regular,
and the fire operate equally on each part of it; —
therefore, be provided with Balancing Skewers, and
Cookholds, and see it is properly Jointed.
• Small families have not always the convenience of roasting with a Spit,
— a remarJi uijon roasting by a string is necessary. — Let the Cook,
before she puts her meat down to the fire, pass a strong skewer through each
end of the joint: by this means, when it is about half done, she can with
ease turn ttie bottom upwards; the gravy will then flow to the part which ha«
been uppermost, and the whole joint be deliciously gravy-full.
A Bottle-Jack, as it is termed by the furnishing ironmongers, is a valu-
able instrument for roasting.
A Dutch Oven, is another very convenient utensil, for roasting fight
joints, or warming them up.
96 ROASTING.
Roasting should be done by the radiant heat,
of a clear glowing Fire, — otherwise it is in fact
Baked — the Machines the Economical Grate-makers
call ROASTERS, are in plain English, Ovens.
Count lUmiford was certainly an exact economist of
Fuel, when he contrived these things, — and those Phi-
losophers who try all questions " According to Cocker"
may vote for Baked Victuals; — but the rational Epi-
cure, who has been accustomed to enjoy Beef well
RoASTKD, will soon be convinced, that the Poet who
wrote our national Ballad at the end of this Chapter,
was not inspired by Sir Benjamin Thompson's Cookery.
All your attention in Roasting, will be thrown away,
it you do not take cart that your Meat, especial/}/ Beef^
(which can seldom be bought ready for the spit except on a
Saturday,) has been kept long enough to be Tender. See
" Advice to Cooks," — and Obs. to (No. 68.)
Make up the Fire in time; let it be proportioned
to the dinner to be dressed, and about three or four
inches longer, at each end, than the thing to be roasted
— or the ends of the meat cannot be done nice and
brown.
A Cook must be as j articular to proportion her Fire *
to the business f>he has to do., as a Chtmiit — the degree
of Heat most desirable for dressing the dijjerent sorts
of food ought to be attended to with the utmost pre-
cision.
* " T^ s viandes en e'neral nr doivcnt pas etre saisies par nn feu vif si
dies out nn certain volume, parce que 1'ex.lt-rieiii fcorait lissole el brule avant
que I'intericnr fiit ciiit : d'un autre cote il ne faut pas exposer trop long-
temps un roti a uiie chaleur modci ee, parce qne cette chaleur, qui suffit pour
evaporer tons les priiicipes iiqnides, et coa^uler I'albumiuee, rapprocheraitles
fibres miiscolairtb et Ui (iesst ciiei ait : il faut observer encore que la saveur
dcs viandes rbties ou uirillees depend ou dn goiit propre a la viande, on d'one
decomposition p.irtielie rie la pean, des muscles, et de la graisse. II se forme
par Taction seule du leu des substances sapides, qui n'existaieut pas dans la
viande crue.
" Les?nbstancessont I'acide prussique, I'acide zoonique, un peu d' huile
empyreumatlque ; il s'y developpe au^si dn stl murln. Tons ces corp«
sont stimulans, legereiiient acres; ils irritent Ics houppes nerveuses de notre
palais, appellent le sue salivaire, et reveillent uotre appeiit."
CouRs GasTROnomiqdes. — Paris, I8I9, p. 292.
ROASTING. 97
The Fire, that is but just sufficient to receive the
noble Sirloin, (No. 19.) will parch up a lighter joint.
From half an Hour, to an Hour, before you begin to
Roast, prepare the Fire, — by putting a few coals on,
which will be sufficiently lighted by the time you wish
to make use of your fire; — between the bars, and on
the top, put small or large Coals, according to the
bulk of the Joint, and the time the fire is required to
be strong ; — after which, throw the Cinders (wetted) at
the back.
Never put Meat down to a burnt up fire, if you can
possibly avoid it; — but should the fire become fierce, —
place the Spit at a considerable distance, and allow
a little more time.
Preserve the fat% by covering it with paper, for
this purpose, called " Kitchen Paper," and tie it on with
fine twine; — pins and skewers can by no means be
allowed, they are so many taps, to let out the Gravy:
— besides, the paper often starts from them and catches
fire, to the great injury of the meat.
If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire
should be little and brisk; — when you have a large
joint to roast, make np a sound, strong fire, equally
good, in every part of the grate — or your meat cannot
be equally roasted, nor have that uniform colour which
constitutes tlie beauty of good roasting.
Give the Fire a good stirring before you lay the joint
down -.—examine it from time to time, while the spit is
going round; — keep it clear at the bottom, and take
care there are no smoky coals in the front, which will
spoil the look and taste of the meat, and hinder it from
roasting evenly.
When the joint to be roasted, is thicker at one end
than the other, place the spit slanting, with the
thickest part nearest the fire.
Do not put Meat too near the fire at first; — the
• If there is more Fat than you think will be eaten uiih the lean — trim it off,
it will make an excellent Pudding. (No. 551, or o5^.) Or clarify it. {So. 83.]
F
98: ROASTING.
larger the joint, the farther it must be kept from the Fire :
— if once it gets scorched, the outside will become
hard, and acquire a disagreeable empyreumatic taste ;
and the fire being prevented from penetrating into it,
the meat will appear done, before it is little more than
half done, besides losing the pale brown colour, which
it is the Beauty of Roasted meat to have.
From 14 to 10 inches is the usual distance at which
meat is put from the grate, when first put down: — it is
extremely difficult to ofter any thing like an accurate
general rule for this, — it depends so much upon the
size of the fire, and of that of the thing to be roasted.
Till some Culinary Philosopher shall invent a Ther-
mometer to ascertain the heat of the Fire, — and a gra-
duated ^pit-Rack to regulate the distance from it,^the
process of Roasting is attended by so many ever-
varying circumstances, that it must remain among
those which can only be performed well, — by frequent
practice and attentive observation.
" Mr. Watt, for his Steam Engines where Wood fuel
is employed, allows three times the weight of Wood, that
he does of Newcastle Coals — -and a bushel of Newcastle
Coals, which weighs | of a Cwt. is reckoned to produce
as much heat as a Cwt. of Scottish or Glasgow Coal."
— Buchanan on Economy of Fuel. 1810. p. 82.
If you wish your Jack to go well, keep it as clean as
possible, oil it, and then wipe it; if the oil is not wiped
off again, it will gather dust ; to prevent this, as soon
as you have done roasting, cover it up. — Never
leave the winders on whilst the Jack is going round,
unless you do it, as Swift says, " that it may fly oflf,
and knock those troublesome servants on the head
who will be crowding round your Kitchen fire."
Be very careful to place the Dripping-Pan at such
a distance from the fire, as just to catch the drippings :
— if it is too near, the ashes will fall into it, and spoil
the Drippings* (which we shall hereafter show, will
* Iliis the Good Housewife will take op occasionally, and pass througli »
ROASTING. 99
occasionally be found an excellent substitute for Butter
or Lard; — to clarify Drippings, see No. 83, and Pease
and Dripping Soup, (No. 229,) {savoury and salubrious
for only a I'enny per Quart). If it is too far from
the fire to catch them, you will not only lose your
drippings, but the Meat will be blackened, and spoiled
by the foetid smoke, which will arise when the fat falls
on the live cinders.
A large Dripping Pan is convenient for several pur-
poses— it should not be less than 28 inches long-, and
20 inches wide — and have a covered well on the side
from the Fire to collect the Drippings — this will pre-
serve them in the most delicate state — in a frying pan
of the above size you may set fried fish, and various
dishes to keep hot.
This is one of Lloyd's contrivances.
The time Meat vjill take Roasting, will vary according
to the time it has been kept, and the temperature of
the weather : — the same weight* will be twenty minutes,
or half an hour longer in Cold Weather^, than it will be
in warm — and if fresh killed, than if it has been kept
till it is tender.
A good Meat Screen, is a great saver of Coals.
It should be on wheels, have a flat top, and not be less
than about three feet and a half wide, and with shelves
in it, about one foot deep — it will then answer all the
purposes of a large Dutch oven, — Plate Warmer, — Hot
Hearth, &c. Some are made with a Door behind —
this is convenient — but the great heat they are exposed
to soon shrinks the materials, and the currents of air
through the cracks cannot be prevented — so they are
sieve into a stone pan: — by leaving it ail in the Dripping-pan, until tlie Meat
is taken up, it not only becomes very strong, but, \vl3en the meat is rich and
yields much of it, it is apt to be spilt in Basting. — To clarify Drippings,
see iS'o. 83.
♦ Insist upon the Butcher fixing a Ticket of the Weight to each Joi?it.
t If THE Meat is frozen, the usunl practice is to put it into Cold Water
till it is thawed, then dry ard roast it as usual : — but we recommend jou to
bring it into the kitchen the night before, or early iu the morning of '.he day
you want to roast it, and the warm air will thaw it much better.
r2
100 ROASTING.
better without the Door. We saw one at Mr. Lloyd's,
furnishing Ironmonger, near Norfolk Street, Strand,
■which had on the top of it — a very convenient Hot
Closet — which is a great acquisition in Kitchens, where
the Dinner waits after it is dressed.
Every body knows the advantage of Slovi Boiling —
Slow Roasting is equally important.
It is difficult to give any specific Rule ior Time;
— but if your Fire is made as before directed, — your
Meat Skreen sufficiently large to guard what you are
dressing from currents of Air, — and the meat is not
FuosTHD, — you cannot do better, than follow the old
general rule of allowing rather 7norc than a Quarter of
an hdvi tu the Pound ; — a little more or less, according
to the temperature of the weather, — and in proportion
as the piece is thick or thin, — the strength of the Fire,
— the nearness of the Meat to it, — and the frequency
with which you baste it; the more it is basted; the
less time it will take, as it keeps the Meat soft and
mellow on the outside, and the Fire acts with more
force upon it.
Rechon the Time, not to the hour when Dinner is or-
dered—but to the moment the Roasts will be wanted —
supposing there are a dozen people to sip Soup, and
eat Fish first, you may allow them ten or fifteen mi-
nutes for the former, and about as long for the latter,
more or less, according to the temptations the " Bon
Gout" of these preceding courses has to attract their
attention.
ly/ien the Joint is halj done, — remove the Spit and
Dripping Pan back, and stir up your fire thoroughly,
that it may burn clear and bright for tlie Browning: —
when the steam from the Meat draws towards the fire*,
it is a sign of its being done enough; — but you will be
the best judge of that, from the time it has been down,
• When the St am begins to arise, it is a pro f that the >vhole joint is tho-
roughly sa'nratffl with heat; any unnecessary evaporation, is a waste uf the
Lie.ot uouribi.inviii of ihc rue.it.
ROASTING.
101
the strength of the Fire you have used, and the dis-
tance your Spit has been from it.
Half an hour before your meat is done, make some
Gravy, {nee Receipt^ No. 326,) and just before you take
it up, put it nearer the fire to brown it. — If you
wish to FROTH it, — baste it, and dredge it with flour
carefully, you cannot do this delicately 7iicc, without a
Dery good light ; — the common fault seems to be using'
too much Flour ; — the Meat should have a fine light
varnish of Froth, — not the appearance of being covered
with a paste ; — ihose u-ho are particular about the Froth,
use Butter instead of Dripping; {see Receipt to Roast a
Turkey^ No. 57;)
'* ApA send up what you Roast, with relish-giving Froth,"
says Dr. King, and present such an agreeable appear-
ance to the Eye, that the Palate may be prepossessed
in its favour at first sight.
A Good Cook, is as anxiously attentive to the ap-
pearance and Colour of her Roasts, as a Court Beauty
is to her Complexion at a Birthday Ball.
Though roasting is one of the most common, and is
generally <?onsidered one of the most easy and simple
processes of Cookery, — it requires more unremitting
attention to perform it perfectly well, than it does to
make most JIade dishes.
That Made-dislies are the most difficult preparations,
deserves to be reckoned among the Culinary Vulgar
Eriors ; — in Plain PvOasting and Boiling, it is not easy
to repair a mistake once made ; — and all the discretion
and attention of a steady careful Cook, must be unre-
mittingly upon the alert*.
* A celebrated Fieiich wiiter has given us the following observations on
Roasting: —
"• Iha Art of IIoHsting victuals to the precise degree, is one of the most
ditficult in this wo; Id, and you may find half a thousand good Cooks sooner
than one perj'ict Roaster: (See " Almanach des GourmandSy" vol. i.
p. 37j. In the mansions of the opulent they have, besides tlie Master
Ritchtuer, — a Roaster, (perfectly independent of the former) who is exclu-
eively devoted to ihe Spit.
*' AH erudite Gourmands know that these two important functions cannot
102
ROASTING.
A diligent attention to time, — the distance of the
Meat from, — and judicious management of the Fire, aad
frequent Bastings*, — are all the general rules we can
prescribe, — we shall deliver particular rules for parti-
cular things, as the several articles occur, and do our
utmost endeavours to instruct our reader as completely
as words can describe the process, and teach
" The inauagoincnt of cominoii iliiii^? so well,
" That what was thought the iiieaiitst shall excel:
" That Cook 's to British palates most complete,
" Whose sav'ry skill gives zcit to common meat:
" For what arc your soops,— your mgouts, — ami your sauce,
" Comparetl to the fare of old Knglanu,
" And OLD IL.vGLisH Roast JitEF!"
%• Take Notice, that the Time given in the J'ul-
hwing Receipts, — is calculated fur tho^e, xvhu like Meat
thoroughli/ Roasted. (See N. B. preceding No. 19.)
Some good Housewives order very large joints to be
rather under done — as they then make a better Hash or
Broil.
be performed by one artist ; it is quite impossible, at the same time, to super-
intend the operations of llic Spit, and ihc Stewpai.." — lurther on, the same
author observes: "No certain rules can be given for Roasting, the perfection
ol it depending on many circumstances which arc continually changing; the
age, and size, (especially ilic thicki.ess) of the pieces, the quality of the coals,
the temperature of the atmosphere, the currents of air in the kitchen, the
m^re or less attention of the roaster; and, lastly, the time of serving. — Sup-
posing the Dinner ordered to be on table at a certain time, if the Fi-h and Soup
are much liked, and detained longer than the roaster has calculated; or, on
the contrary, if they are despatched sooner than is expected, the roasts will in
one case be burnt up, in the other not tlone enough — two misfortunes equally
ip be deplored. The first, liowcver, is without a remedy ; _;^t'C minutes oi>
the Spit, more or less, decides the goqdness of this mode cj' Cookery ; — it is
almost impossible to seize the precise instant when it ought to be eaten ;
^'hich Epicures in roasts express, by sajiog, ' It is done to a turn,' So thai
there is no exac;geration in saying, the perfect Roaster, is even more rate,
Uian the professed Cook.
" In small families, where the Cook — is also the Roaster, — it is almost im-
possible the roasts should be well done; — the Spit claims exclusive attention,
and is an imperious Mistress, who demands the ei;tire devotion of her slave.
Eut how can this be? When the Cook is obliged, at the same time, to attend
her Fish and Soup kettles, and watch her Stewpans and all their accompani-
ments;— it is morally and physically im;)Ossible, if she gives that delicate and
constant attention to the Roasts, which is indispensably requisite, the rest of
the Dinner iiiust often be spoilt ; and most Cooks would rather lose their cha-
racter as a Roaster, than neglect the made-dishes and ' entremets,' bcc. where
they think they can display their Culinary Science ,—X\\nn sacrifice these to
the Roasts, the perfection of which, will only prove their steady Vigilance
and Patienoe."
• Our Ancestors were very particular in their Bastings andDredgings,
as will be seen by the following qootation from May's Accomplished
ROASTING. 103
To make GRAVY for Roasts, see (No. 326.)
N. B. ROASTS, must not be put on, — till the Soup
and Fish are taken off the Table.
Cook." London, l665, p. 136. — " The rarest ways of dressing of all manner
of roast meats, either flesh or fowl, by sea or land, and divers ways of bread-
ing or dredging meats to prevent the gravy from too much evaporating."
Dredgings.
1. Flour mixed with grated bread.
2. Sweet herbs dried and powdered, and tnixed with grated bread.
3. Lemon peel dried and pounded, or orange peel mixed with flour.
4. Sugar finely powdered, and mixed with pounded cinnamon, and flour, or
grated bread.
5. Fennel seeds, corianders, cinnamon, and sugar, finely beaten, and mixed
with grated bread or flour.
6. For young pigs, grated bread or flour mixed with beaten nutmeg, ginger,
pepper, sugar, and yolks of eggs.
f. Sugar, bread, and salt mixed.
Bastings.
1. Fresh butter.
2. Clarified suet.
3. Minced sweet herbs, butter and claret, especially for mutton and lamb.
4. ^V ater and salt.
5. Cream and melted butter, especially for a flayed pig.
6. Yolks of eggs, grated biscuit, and juice of oranges.
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
CHAPTER III.
FRYING.
Fryixg is often a convenient mode of Cookery, — it
may be performed by a fire which will not do for Roast-
ing or Broilinq:; — and by the introduction of the Pan
between the Meat and the Fire, things get more equally
dressed.
The Dutch Oven or Bonnet is another very con-
venient utensil for small things, and a very useful sub-
stitute for the Jack, — the Gridiron, — or Fryingpan.
A Fryingpan should be about four inches deep,
with a pcrfatli/Jlat and thick bottom, 12 inches long, and
9 broad — with perpendicular sides, and must be half
filled with Fat — Good Frying is in fact — Boiling
in Fat, To make sure that the Pan is quite clean^ rub a
little Fat over it — and then make it warm and wipe it
out with a clean cloth.
Be very particular in Frying, never to use any Oil, —
Butter, — l.ard, — or Drippings, — but what is quite
clean, fresh, and free from salt. Any thing dirty spoils
the look ; — any thing bad tasted or stale spoils the
flavour ; — and salt prevents its Browning.
Fine Olive Oil, is the most delicate for frying; — but
to have the best oil is very expensive, and bad oil
spoils every thing that is dressed with it.
For general purposes, and especially for Fish, clean
fresh Lard, is not near so expensive as oil or clarified
Butter, and does almost as well, except for Cutlets and
Collops. — Butler often burns before you are aware of
FRYING. 105
it, and what you fry will get a dark and dirty ap-
pearance.
Cooks in large kitchens, where there is a great deal
of frying, commonly use Mutton or Beef Suet, clarified,
(see No. 84); (if from the kidney, all the better).
Dripping, if nicely clean and fresh, is almost as good
as any thing-, — if not clean, it may be easily clarified ;
see (No. 83). Whatever Fat you use — after you have
done frying, let it remain in the Pan for a few mi-
nutes, and then pour it through a sieve into a clean
basin — it will do three or four times as well as it did atjirsty
i. e. if it has not burned — but Mem. — the Fat you have
fried Fish in must not be used for any other purpose.
To know when the Fat is of a proper heat, accord-
ing to what you are to fry, is the great secret in frying.
To fry Fish, — Parsley, — Potatoes, or any thing
that is watery, your Fire must be xery clear, and the Fat
quite hot, — which you may be pretty sure of, when it
has done hissing, and is still. — We cannot insist too
strongly on this point : — if the Fat is not very hot, you
cannot fry Fish either to a good colour, or firm uiul crisp.
To be quite certain, — throw a little bit of Bread into
the pan ; if it fries crisp, the Fat is ready : if it burns
the bread, it is too hot.
The Fire under the pan must le clear and sharp, other-
wise the fat is so long before it becomes ready, and de-
mands such attendance to prevent the a,ccident of its
catching fire*, the patience of cooks is exhausted, and
they frequently, from ignorance, or impatience, throw
in what they are going to fry, before the fat is half hot
enough. — Whatever is so fried, will be pale and sodden,
and offend the Palate and Stomach, not less than
the Eye.
* If this unfortunately liappeus, be not in the least alarmed, — but immedi-
ately wet a basket of Ashes and throw them down the Chimney, and wet a
Blanket, and hold it close all round the Fire-place, — as soon as the curient
of air is stopped, — the tire will be extinguished: with a charcoal
sTov K there is no danger, as the diameter of the Pan exceeds that of the flte,
f 5
106 FRYING.
Have a good light to fry by, — that you may see wheiir
you have got the right colour : — a Lmnp fixed on a
stem with a loaded foot, which has an arm that will
lengthen out, and slide up and down like a reading
candlestick, is a mo^sf useful appendage to Kitchen Fire-
places, which are very seldom light enough for the
nicer operations of Cookery.
After all, if you do not thoroughiy drain the fat from
what you hait fried, — especially from those things that
are full dressed in Bread-crumbs *, or Binuit Poudcr, &c.
— your Cooking will do you no credit.
The Dryness of Fish depends much upon its having
been fried in fat of a due degree of heat, it is then
crisp and dry in a few minutes after it is taken out
of the Pan — when it is not, lay it on a soft cloth
before the fire, turning it occasionally, till it is ; —
this will sometimes take 15 minutes: — therefore always
fry Fish as long as this before you want them — for
fear you may find this necessary.
To FRY Fisii, see Receipt to fry Soles, (No. 145.)
which is the only circumstantial account of the process
that has yet been priuted. — If the Cook will study it
with a little attention, she must soon become an ac-
complished Frier.
Frying, though one of the most common of culi-
nary operations, — is one that is least commonly per-
formed perfectly well.
• When yon want a great many BRE.v»>-CRi.Mns, divide your Loaf (wliicit
should be two days old,) into three equal parts — take the middle or cramb
piece, ihe top and bottom will do for table — in the usual uay of cuttm^,
the crust is uasted.
Oatmeal is a very satisfactory, and an extremely economical 'Jubstitute for
Bread Crumbs. See (No. 145)
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
CHAPTER IV.
BROILING.
Clean'liness is extremely essential in this mode of
cookery.
Keep your Gridiron quite clean between the bars,
and bright on the top; — when it is hot, — wipe it well
with a linen cloth ; just before you use it, rub the bars
with clean mutton suet, to prevent the Meat from
being marked by the gridiron.
Take care to prepare your Fire in time, so that it
may burn quite clear; a brisk and dear fire is indis-
pensable;— or you cannot give your meat that browning
which constitutes the perfection of this mode of cookery,
and gives a relish to food it cannot receive any other
way.
Be very attentive to watch the moment any thing is
done ; — never hasten any thing that is broiling, lest
you make smoke and spoil it.
Let the bars of the Gridiron be all hot through, but
yet not burning hot upon the surface; — this is the per-
fect and fine condition of the Gridiron.
As the Bars keep away as much heat as their breadth
covers, it is absolutely necessary they should be
thoroughly hot before the thing to be cooked be laid
on them.
The Bars of Gridirons should be made concave, and
terminate in a trough to catch the Gravy and keep the
Fat from dropping into the fire and making a smoke,
which will spoil the Broil.
108 BROILING.
Upright Gridirons are the best, as they can
be used ut any fire, without fear of smoke ; and the
gravy is preserved in the trough under them.
N.B. Broils must be brought to table as Hut as
possible : set a Dish to heat, when you put your Chops
on the Gridiron — from whence to the Mouth their
progress must be as quick as possible.
jr/ien the Fire is not clear — \\\c business of the
Gridiron may be done by the Dutch Oxtn or Bonnit.
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY
CHAPTER V.
VEGETABLES.
The Marketing Tables at the end of this Work,
show the Seasons of V^egttabhs, and point out the time
when they are Best and Cheapest.
There is nothing in which the difference bttwctn an
Elegant and an Ordinary table is more seen^ than in the
dressing of I'egetables, more especially of Greens : —
they may be equally as fine at first, at one place as at
another; — but their look and taste are afterwards
very different, entirely from the careless way in which
they have been cooked.
They are in greatest Perfection, iihtn in greatest Phnti/y
i. €. when in full season.
By Season, — I do not mean those early days, that
luxury in the buyers^ and avarice in the sellers about
London, force the various vegetables : but that time of
the year in which by nature and common culture, and
the mere operation of the Sun and Climate, they are
in most plenty and perfection.
Potatoes and Peas — are seldom worth eating before
Midsummer. — Unripe Vegetables, are as insipid and
unwholesome as Unripe Fruits.
As to the quality of Vegetables, the middle size are
preferred to the largest, or the smallest; — they are
more tender, juicy, and full of flavour, just before they
are quite full grown : Freshness is their chief value
and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting
an Animal alive, — as of boiling a Vegetable after it is
dead.
110 VEGETABLES.
The Eye easily discovers if they have been kept too
long; — they soon lose their Beauty in all respects.
Roots, Greens, Salads, &c., and the various pro-
ductions of the Garden, when first gathered, are
plump and firm, and have a fragrant freshness no art
can give them again, when they have lost it by long
keeping ; — though it will refresh them a little to put
them into cold spring water for some time before they
are dressed.
To boil them in soft xvater will preserve the colour
l>est of such as are Green ; if you have only hard water,
put to it a teaspoonful of Carbonate of Putaih.
Take care to uash and cleanse them thoroughly from
dust, dirt, and insects : -^ Mi^ requires great attention:
— pick oft all the outside leaves, trim them nicely, and
if not quite fresh gathered and have become flaccid — it
is absolutely necessary to restore their crispness before
cooking them, or they will be tough and unpleasant —
lay them in a pan of clean water, witii a handful of
salt in it, for an hour before you dress them.
" Most Vegetables being more or less succulent,
their full proportion of fluids is necessary for their re-
taining that state of crispness and plumpness which
they have when growing. — On being cut or gathered,
the exhalation from their surface continues, while,
from the open vessels of the cut surface, there is often
great exudation or evaporation, and thus their natural
moisture is diminished, the tender leaves become flac-
cid, and the thicker masses or roots lose their plump-
ness.— This is not only less pleasant to the Eye, but
is a real injur\' to the nutritious powers of the vege-
table : for in this flaccid and shrivelled state its fibres
are less easily divided in chewing, and the water which
exists in vegetable substances, in the form of their
respective natural juices, is directly nutritious. The
first care in the preservation of succulent vegetables,
therefore, is to prevent them from losing their natural
moisture." — Sup. to Edinb. Enci/clop. vol. iv. p. 335.
VEGETABLES. Ill
They should always be boiled in a saucepan by
themselves, and have plenty of water : if Meat is
boiled with them in the same pot, they will spoil the
look and taste of each other.
If you wish to have Vegetables delicately clean, put
on your Pot, make it boil, put a little salt in it — and
skim it perfectly clean before you put in the Greens,
&c. — which should not be put in till the water boils
briskly : tlie quicker they boil, the greener they will
be: — when the Vegetables sink, they are generally
done enough, if the water has been kept constantly
boiling. Take them up immtdintely^ or they mil lose
their colour and goodness. Drain the water from them
thoroughly before you send them to table.
This branch of Cookery, requires the most vigilant
attention.
If Vegetables are a minute or two too long over the
Fire, — they lose all their Beauty and Flavour.
If not thoroughly boiled te?ider, they are tremendously
Indigestible, and much more troublesome during their
residence in the Stomach, than underdone Meats*.
To preserve, or give colour in Cookery, many good
dishes are spoiled ; but the rational Epicure, who makes
nourishment the main end of eating, will be content
to sacrifice the shadow, to enjoy the substance. Vide
Obs. to (No. 322.)
Once for all, take care your vegetables are fresh; —
for as -the Fishmonger often suffers for the sins of the
Cook, so the Cook often gets undeservedly blamed
instead of the Green-grocer.
Vegetables in this metropolis, are often kept so long,
that no art can make them either look or eat well.
• " Cauliflowers and other Vegetables are often boiled only crisp, to
preserve their Beauty. For the look alone they had better not be boiled at
all, and almost as well for the use, as ii; this crude state they arc scarcely di-
gestible by the strongest stomach. On the other hand, when over-boiled,
they become vapid, and in a state similar to decay, in which they afford no
sweet purifying Juices to the body, but load it with a mass of mere feculent
matter." — Domestic Management, 12mo. 1813, p. 69.
11*2 VEGETABLES.
" Succulent Vegetables are best preserved in a cool
shady and damp place. Potatoes, — Turnips,— Carrots,
and similar Roots intended to be stored up, should
never be cleaned from the earth adhering to them —
and must be protected from the action of the air, and
frost, by layiuLi: them in heaps, burying them in
sand or earth, die. or covering them with straw or
mats.
" The action of Frost destroys the life of the Vege-
table, and it speedily rots." — Sup. to Edinb. E/uycluptdia,
vol. iv. p. 335.
N.B. When Greens, 6:c. are quite fnsh gathered,
they will not require so much boiling, by at least a third
of the time they take, when tliey have been gathered
the usual time those are that are brought to public
markets.
Mr. Appert has published his simple and unex-
pensive process of preserving fresh, both animal and
vegetable foods, from the season of produce, throu^ih the
season of scarcity, in their full Havour and excellence,
merely by a[)plying heat in a due degree to the several
substances, after having deprived them of all contact
with the external air.
There is not a Mistress of a Family who is ricli
enough to lay by a stock of these Articles, and not too
rich to despise Economy, who will not be benefited by
the perusal of Mr. Appert's Book, 12:no. 1812, or pur-
chase La CiiiMiE Du Gout, 2 tom. Paris, 1819.
HUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
CHAPTER VI.
FISH.
The Marketing Tables at the end of this Work
show when each kind of Fish is Best and Cheapest.
This department of the business of the Kitchen
requires considerable experience, and depends more
upon practice than any other; — a very Jhv momentSy
more or less, will thoroughly spoil Fish*; which, to be
eaten in perfection, — must never be put on the Table,
till the Soup is taken off.
So many circumstances operate on this occasion, it
is almost impossible to write general rules.
There are decidedly different opinions, whether Fish
should be put into cold, — tepid, — or boiling water.
• Whea the Cook has large dinners to prepare, aud the time of serving un-
certain, she will get more credit by FRiEn, (see No. 145.) or stewed, (see No.
164.) than by boiled Fish. It is also cheaper, and much sooner carved,
(see No. 14.5.)
Mr. Uae, pa^e 238 of his Cookery — advises, " Tf you are obiiged to wait
after the Fish is done, do not let it remain in the water, but keep the water
boiling — and put the fish over it, and cover it with a damp clotli — when the
dinner is called for, dip the fish agnin in the water — and serve it up."
The only circumstantial instructions yet printed for Frying Fish, the
Reader will find in (No. 145.): if this be carefully and nicely aiteiided to,
you will have delicious food, and let the Fish-Eater remember the Epitaph
of the Musician at Marseilles —
m
X2:
-&
which being read according to the French gamut and pronuncialion ■
— Sole — La — Mis — La.
is La
114 FISH.
We believe for some of the fame the Dutch Cooks
have acquired, they are a little indebted to their situa-
tion, affording them a plentiful supply of Fresh Fish
for little more than the trouble of catching it : — and
that the superior excellence of tlie fish in Holland,
is because none are used, unless they are brought
alive into the Kitchen, (Mackerel excepted, which die
the moment tiiey are taken out of the water.) The
Dutch are as nice about this, as Seneca says, the Ro-
mans* were ; who, complaining of the luxury of the
times, says, " they are come to that daintiness, that
they will not eat a Fish, unless upon the same day that
it is taken, that it may taste of the sea, as they ex-
press it."
On the Dutch flat coast, the Fish are taken with
nets ; — on our rocky coast, they are mostly caught by
bait and hook, which instantly kills them. — Fish are
brought alive by land, to the Dutch markets, in water-
casks with air-holes in the top. — Salmon, and other
fish, are thus preserved in rivers, in a well hole, in the
fishing-boat.
Fish of every kind are best some time before
they begin to spawn — and are unfit for food for some
time after they have spawned.
7/ie mofit convenient Utensil to boil Fish in, is a
TuREOT Kettle, — this should be 24 inches long,
22 wide, and 9 deep. — It is an excellent vessel to boil
a Ham in, &-c. &c.
Tlie good folks of this Metropolis are so often dis-
appointed, by having Fish which have been kept too
long, — that they are apt to run into the other extreme,
• They had Salt Water preserves for feeding diflferent kinds of Sea fish ;
those in ilie ponds of Lucullus, at his death, sold for 25,()00/. sterling. The
prolific po^^e^ of Fish is woiiderful: — the followiug calculations aie from
Petit, Bloch, and Leuwenhuek : —
Eggs.
A Salmon of CO pounds weight contained........ 27,850
A middling sized Tike 148,000
A Mackerel., 546,681
A Cod , , , 9,344,000
See Cours Gastronomiques , )8mo. 1806, p. 241.
risH. 11^
and suppose that Fish will not dress well, unless it is
absolutely alive. This is true of Lobsters, &c. (No.
1 76.) and may be of Fresh-water fish, but certainly not
of some Sea fish.
Several respectable Fishmongers and experienced
Cooks have assured the Editor, that they are often in
danger of losing their credit, by fish too fresh, and
especially Turbot and Cod, which, like Meat, require a
certain time before they are in the best condition to be
dressed: — they recommend them to be put into Cold
Water, Salted in proportion of about a quarter of a
pound of salt to a gallon of water, — Sea IVater is best
to boil Sea fish in, — and let them boil slowly till done ;
the sign of which is, that the skin of the fish rises up,
and the Eyes turn white.
It is the business of the Fishmonger to clean them,
&c. but the careful Cook will always wash them
again.
Garnish, with slices of Lemoriy — finely scraped
Horseradish, — fried Oysters, (No. 183.) — Smelts, (No.
173.) — or Whitings, (No. 153.) or Strips of Soles as
directed in No. 145.
The Liver, — Roc, — and Chitterlings, — should be
placed so that the Carver may observe them and
invite the Guests to partake of them.
N.B. Fish, like Meat, requires more cooking in cold
than in warm weather ; — if it becomes frozen*, it must
be thawed by the means we have directed for Meat,
in the 6th page of the 2d Chapter of the Rudiments of
Cookery. To go to Market for fish, see Observa-
tions, after (No. 182.) and the Marketing Tables, at the
end of this Work.
FISH SAUCES.
The MELTED Butter (No. 256.) for Fish, should he
thick enough to adhere to the Fish, and, therefore,
* Fish is very frequently sent home frozen by the Fishmonger, to whom an
Ice-house is now as i;ecessary an appendage (tc preserve Fish)— as it is to a
Confectioner.
116 Tisn.
must be of the thickness of light Batter, as it is to be
diluted with — Fssence of Anchovy. (No. 433.)
Soy, (No. 436.) Mushroom Catnup, (No. 439.)
Cayenne, (No. 404.) or Chilli Vinegar, (No. 405 )
Lemons or Lemon Juice, or Artijicial Ltmoa Juicc^
see (No. 407*.) &c. which are expected at all well
served Tables.
Cooks, who are jealous of the reputation of their
Taste, and Housekeepers uho laluc their Uealtli, ui/l
prepare thae articles at home; — there are quite as many
reasons why they should, as there are for the preference
usually given to Hume baked Bread and Home-breued
Beer*, &c. see Accum on Adulterations of Bread,
Beer, Wine, Tea, Coffee, Vinegar, Mustard,
Pepper, &c. " Indeed it would be difficult to men-
tion a single article of food which is not to be met
with in an adulterated state; and there are some
which are scarcely ever to be procured genuine."
12mo. 1820, page *3, '2nd Ldition.
N.B. The Jjiirr of the Fish, pounded and mixed
with Parsley and Butter, with a little Lemon Juice,
&c. is an elegant and inoffensive relisli to Fish. See
(No. 288.) Mushroom Sauce E.itempure, (No. 307),
the Soup of Mock Turtle, (No. 247 , will make an
excellent Fish Sauce.
On the comparatively nutritive qualities of Fish,
see N.B. to (No. 181.)
• See Accum o.n Brewing — ICino. 1820 — and " Ilojiii Brewld Ale,"
by a Housekeeper, Robinson, 1804, in page 18: our Uoiisikeeper tells us,
that " a poor widow in his uei'^hbxui hood, has filled up a Brewery for the
sum of eighteenpence sterling! A bntiei-tub (price nine-pence) is her masb-
tub: three half tubs of smaller size, (at threepence each) are her coolers
with these she brews half a buihcl of malt at a time, and declares Ihat she finds
her Home Brewed Ale " very coinj'ortahle indeed." — See also Rawlinso.n
on Brewi.vg Malt LiQUOR_/br Domestic use — printed for Johnson, InU
Edition, 18u7, price is.
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
CHAPTER VII.
BROTHS AND SOUPS.
The Cook must pay continual attention to the condi-
tion of her Stewpans * and Soup-kettles, &c. — which
should be examined every time they are used. Tlie pru-
dent Huvsewife uill carefuUij examine the condition of them
herself at least once a month. Their covers also must be
kept perfectly clean and well tinned, — and the Stewpans
not only on the inside, but about a couple of inches on
the outside : — many mischiefs arise from their g:etting
out of repair, — and if not kept nicely tinned^ all your
good work xiill be in tain ; the Broths and Soups will
look ^reen and dirty, — taste bitter and poisonous, —
and will be spoiled both for the Eye and Palate, and
your credit will be lost.
The Health, and even Life of the family, depends
upon this, and the Cook may be sure, her Employers
had rather pay the Tinman's bill than the Doctor's ; —
therefore, attention to this cannot fail to engage the
regard of the Mistress, between whom and the Cook,
— it will be my utmost endeavour to promote perfect
Harmony.
If a serxant has the 7ni fortune to scorch or blister the
tinning of her Pan-f, which will happen sometimes to the
most careful Cook, — 1 advise her, by all means, imme-
diately to acquaint her employers, who will thank her
• V\*e prefer the form of a Stewpan, to the Soup-Pot,— the former is more
eonvenient to skim; the most useful size is 12 inches diameier by 6 inches
deep: this we would have of Silver, — or Iron, — or Copper lined (not plated)
with Silver.
+ This may be always avoided by Browning your meat in the Frying-
pan — it is the browning of the meat that destroys the Stew pan.
118 BROTHS AND SOUPS.
for candidly mentioning such an accident; and cen-
sure her deservc'Jly if she conceal it.
Take care to be properly provided with Sieves and
Tammy cloths, — Spoons, and Ladles, — make it a
rule -without an exception, never to use them till they are
well cleaned and thoroughly dried, — nor any Stew-
pans, &c., without first washing them out with boiling
water, and rubbing them well with a dry cloth and a
little bran, to clean them from grease, sand, &c. or any
bad smell they may have got since they were last
used : never neglect this.
Though we do not suppose our Cook to be such a
naughty Slut, as to wilfully neglect her Buoth Pots,
&c. yet we may recommend her to wash them imme-
diately, and take care they are thoroughly dried before
the fire, before they are put by, and to keep them in a
dry place, for damp will rust and destroy them very
soon : — attend to this the first moment you can spare
after the dinner is sent up.
Never put by any Soup, Gravy, &c., in a metal
utensil ; in which, never keep any thing longer than is
absolutely necessary for the purposes of Cookery, —
the acid, vegetables, and fat, &c. employed in making
them — are capable of dissolving them; therefore stone
or earthen vessels should be used for this purpose.
Stewpans and Soup-pots, with thick and round
bottoms, (such as saucepans are made with) will wear
twice as long, and are cleaned with half the trouble, as
those whose sides are soldered to the bottom, of which
Sand and Grease get into the joined part, and it is next to
an impossibility, to dislodge it. The Editor claims the
credit of having first suggested the importance of this
construction of these utensils.
Take care that the Lids fit as close as possible, that
the Broth, Soup, and Sauces, &c. may not waste by
evaporation*. They are good for nothing, unless they
• " Fil-on jamais de bon bouillon — dans une marmite decouvcrtel Quelle
BROTHS AND SOUPS. 119
lit tight enough to keep the Steam in, and the Smoke
out.
Stewpans and saucepans should be always bright on
the upper rim, where the fire does not burn them : but
to scower them all over, is not only giving the Cook-
needless trouble, but wearing out the vessels.
Cultivate habits of regularity and cleanliness, &c. in
all your business, — which you will then get through
easily and comfortably. — I do not mean the restless
spirit of Mulidusta, " the Tidy One" who is always
frisking about, in a v/hirlpool of bustle and confusion ;
and is always dirty, — under pretence of being always:
cleaning.
Lean juicy Beef, — Mutton, — or Veal, — form the
basis of Broth : — procure those pieces which afford
the most and the richest succulence, and as fresh
killed as possible*. See The Marketing Tables at
the end of this work.
Stale Meat will make your broth grouty and bad
tasted, and Fat meat is only wasted. This only ap-
plies to those Broths which are required to be perfectly
clear: we shall show hereafter, in (No. 229.) that Fat
ajid Clarified Drippings may be so combined with
Vegetable Mucilage, as to aflord, at the small cost of
ONE Penny per Quart, a nourishing, and palatable
Soup, fully adequate to satisfy Appetite, and support
strength : — this will open a new source to those bene-
difference de gout, d'odeur, et de substance entre irne tranche de Boeuf cuite a
fea lent, dans uu valsseau fcrme, ou un morceau de Bceuf cuit ^gros bouillons,
dans une marmite enti^rement onverte! L'avantage en est si consequent, que
j'ai souvent reussi h faire de meilleur bouillon, en quantite egale, avec moi-
ti^ moins de viande, dans une marmite bien fermee, qu'avec le double dans
un vaisseau oiivert. D'oii provient done cette difference etonnante? C'esl
que dans un vaisseau decouvert, la plus grande partie du sue des viandes et dn
boaillon se dissipent en vapeurs, tandis que dans un vaisseau ferme, ces exha-
lations nutritives, toujours ccndensees, sont dans nue distillation {)erpetuellej
qui, relorabant dans le vase comme la rosee, concentre la totalite de icur
sacs, et conserve toutes leurs substances nourici^res."
• In general, it has been considered the best Economy to use the cheapest
and most inferior meats for Soup, &c. and to boil it down till it is entirely-
destroyed, and hardly worth pnttinginto the Ilog-tub. This is a false Frugality:
buy good fieces o/ Meat, and only steiv them till they are d&ne enough
to be eaten.
120
BPOTIIS AN D SOUPS.
volent housekeepers, who are disposed to relieve the
Poor, — and will show the industrious classes how
much they have it in their power to assist themselves,
and rescue them from being; objects of Charity depend-
ent on tlie precarious bounty of others, — by teaching
them how they may obtain a cheap, abundant, salu-
brious, and agreeable ahment for themselves and
families.
This Soup lias the advantag:e of bcinp: very easily
and very soon made, with no more fuel than is neces-
sary to warm a room — those who have not tasted it,
cannot imao;ine what a salubriojjs, savoury and satisfy-
iniT iMtal is produced by the judicious comljination of
cheap homely in^^redients.
Scotch B.vRLi.Y Broth, (No. 204) will furnish a
G(m(l I)tn/,ii i.i Soup and Mcat for Five jkiicp p^r Hrod,
Peask Soup (No.2'21), will cost only Sixpence per ilitart^
Ox Tail Si)LP(\o. 240) or the same Portable Soup,
(No. 252) for liie-pence per Quart, and (No. 224) an
excellent Guavy So up for Four-pence halfpenny per
Quar/. Di'CK GiBLET Soup, (No. 244) for Three-pence
per Qurirt, and Fowls' Head Soup in the same manner
Jar i(i/i /ess. (No. 239) will give you a good and
PLENTIFUL Dinner for Six people for Two Shillings
and Tuo pence. See also Shin of Beff stew: d, (No.
493; and Ala mode Beef (.No. 502j.
BUOTH HERBS, SOUP ROOTS, AND SEASONINGS.
Scotch barley, (No. 204.)
Pearl barley,
Flour,
Oatmeal, (No. 572.)
Bread,
Raspings,
Pea.s,
Bt-ans,
Rice,
Vermicelli,
Maccaroni,
Isinglass,
Potatoe mucilage, (448.)
Mushrooms*, (No. 439.)
• iMubHRooM Catsup, made as (No. 4.^9,) or (No. 440,) will answrrafl
tl«e purpose o( .MnslirooiuB iu soup or sauce, and no siore-room ibuuid be
Milhout a siuck uf it.
BROTHS AND SOUPS.
121
Champignons,
Parsnips, (No. 213.)
Carrots, (No. 212.)
Beet roots,
Turnips, (No. 208.)
Garlick,
Shallots, see (No. 402.)
Onions*,
Leeks,
Cucumberf,
Celery, (No. 214.)
Celery seedt,
Cress seed, see (No. 397. 1|)
Parsleyll, see N. B. to (No.
261.)
Common Thyme ||,
Lemon Thyme ||,
Orange Thyme 1|,
Knotted Marjoram 1|, (No.
417.)
Sage 11,
Mint, (No. 398.)
Winter Savoury H,
Sweet Basil 11, (No. 397.)
Bay leaves,
Tomatoe,
Tarragon, (No. 396.)
Chervil,
Burnet, (No. 399.)
Allspice §, (No. 412.)
Cinnamon^, (No. 416.*)
Ginger§, (No. 411.)
Nutmeg^,
Clove, (No. 414.)
• All Cooks agree in this opinion,
No savoury dish withoict an Omon.
Sliced Onionx fried, see (No. £99,) and note iiuder (No. 517,) vvitli some
butter and flour, liil they are browned, (<uid rubbed through h sieve,) are ex-
cellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and
form the basis of most of the Relishes furnished by the *' Restaurateurs" —
as we 51 rss from the odour which ascends from their Kitchens, and salutes
our olfactory nerves '' en passant "
The older and drier the Onion, the stronger its flavour, and the Cook will
regulate the quantity she uses accurdingly.
t Burnet has exactly the same flavour as Cucumber, — sac Burnet Vinegar,
(No. 399.)
1 The concentration of flavour in Celery and Cress Seed is such, that
half a drachm of it, {finely pou?ided) or double the quantity if not ground or
pounded, costing only one third of a Farthing, wWi impregnate half a gallon
of soup with almost as much relish as two or three heads of the fresh vegetable,
weighing seven ounces, and costing Two-pence. Ihis valuible acquisition to
the .Soup-pot deserves to be univers.dly known. See also (No. 409,) l^ssence
of Celery. Ihis is the most frugal Kelish we have to introduce to the Eco-
nomist— but that our judgment in Palatics may not be called in q'lestion by
our fellow mortals, who, as the Craniologists say, happen to have the Organ
of Taste stronger than the Organ of Accumulutiie>>ess, we must confess,
that, with the flavour, it docs not impart the delicate sweetness, &c. of the
fresh Vegetable: and when used, a bit of .Sugar should accompany it.
(I S(?e (No. 410) and (xVo. 4C0) and (No. 459.) Fiesli green Basil is seldom
to be procured. When dried, much of its fine flavour is lost, which is fully
extracted by pouring wine on the fiesh leaves, (see 397-)
To procure and preserve the flavour of sweet and savodry H£RBs,
celery, &c. these must be dried, &c. at home, (see No. 417* and 46l.)
$ See (No. 421) and (No. 457.)
G
122 BR0TH3 AND SOUPS.
Mace, Lemon-juice*,
Black pepper, I Seville orange juice f,
Lemon-peel, (No. 407 and Kssence of Anchovy, see
408.) (No. 433.)
White pepper,
'1 he above Materials — Wine and Mushroom Catsup,
(No. 439), combined in various ])roportions, — will nmke
an endless variety t of excellent Broths and Soups, quite
as pleasant to the Palate, and as useful and agreeable
to the Stomach, as consuming Pheasants and Par-
tridges, and the long list of inflammatory, piquante, and
rare and costly articles, recommended by former
Cookery-book makers, — whose elaborately com-
pounded Soups, are like their Made Dishes ; — iii
which, though variety is aimed at, every thing has the
same Taste, — and nothing its uun.
The general fault ojuur English Soups, seems to
• If yon have not fresh orange or Lemon Juice, or Coxwell's crystalllKed
Ixinou Acid, the artificial Lttnun Juice (No. 407) i» a good lubstilute
for it.
t The juice of the Seville Oh4NOE is to be preferred to that of the
Lemon,— the Flavonr is finer and the Acid milder.
I The erudite editor of the " Almanack des Gourmands," voL il. p. 30,
tells 119, that ten fulio volumes would not contain the Receipts of all the Soups
that have been invented in that Grand School of Good Ealing,— the Parisian
Kitchen.
We add the following Directions for SouP-MAKlNO from the celebrated
French Chemist, Parme.ntier: —
Rigles giniraUs pour la Preparation des Bouillons Alimentaires.
1. viande saine, et convenablenient sai{;n^e.
2. Vaisseaux de tii re, de preference a ceux de m^tal, parce que les premiers
sont moins condutteurs de la chaleur, et qu'une fois echautles, un peu de
cendre chaude entrtticnt IVbullition Ug^re que Ton desire.
3. Eau en qnaniitr double dn poids a celle de la viande employee.
4. Sutlisaiitu quaulile de »el commun pour faciliter la separation de I'albu-
miiie, ain?i que sa coagulation sous forme d'tcnme.
5. Temptrature capable de porter le melange a rebollitiou pendant tout k
temps que I'l cume se rassemblera ii la surlace du liquide, et qu'on aura sola
d'l-n separer exactemtnt.
6. Temptrature plus basse aprds I'op^-raiion precedente, et toujonrs cou-
stante, afin que le liquide ne tasse que fremir legerement, pour doiwier le
temps aux substances nutritives, colorantes et extractives, contenues dans la
viande, de s'uiiir el de se combiner avec I'eau, dans I'ordic qui convieiil a i«ui
jolubilite.— I'AR JiE.\ri£R, Code Pharmaceutiqut, 1811, p. 444.
BROTHS AND SOUPS. '123
be the employment of an excess of SpicE; and too small a
proportion o/" Roots and Herbs*.
Besides the Ingredients I have enumerated, many
Culinary scribes indiscriminately cram into almost
every Dish (in such inordinate Quantities — one would
suppose they were working for the Asbestos palate
of an Indian Fire-Eater) Anchovies, — Garlickf? — Bay
leaves, and that hot fiery spice CayenneX pepper; this
v/hich the French call (not undeservedly) Piment enrage^
(No. 404,) has somehow or other — unaccountably
— acquired a character for being xery wholesome^ —
whilst the milder Peppers and Spices, are cried down,
as destroying the sensibility of the Palate, and Stomach,
&c., and being the source of a thousand mischiefs. —
We should just as soon recommend Alcohol as being
less intoxicating than IVine.
The best thing that has been said in praise of
Peppeus is, '* that with all kinds of Vegetables, as
" also with Soups (especially vegetable soups) and
*' Fish, either Black or Cayenne tcpper may be taken
" freely : they are the most useful stimulants to Old
" Stomachs, and often supersede the cravings for
" strong drinks; or diminish the quantity otherwise
" required." See Sir A. Carlisle on Old Age^
• " Point de Legumes, point de Cuiiiiiiere" is a favourite culinary
adage of the French kitchen; and deserves to be so : a better soup may be
tna<le with a couple of pounds of Meat and plenty of Vegetables, than our
common Cooks will n)ake you with four times that quantity of meat; all for
want of knowing the uses of Soup roots, and Sv/eet and Savoury herbs.
t Many a i^ood dish is spoiled, by the cook not knowing the proper use
of this, which is to give a flavour, and not to be predominant over the other
ingredients : a morsel mashed with the point of a knife, and stirred in, is
enough. See (Mo. 4OC.)
X Foreigners have strange notions of English Taste, on which one of their
Culinary Professors has made the following comment: " J he organ of Taste
in these I&landkrs is very ditferent from our Delicate Palates — and saTice
that would excoriate the palate of a Frenchman, would be hardly piquante
enough to make any impression on that of an i.nglishrnan ; — thus, they
prefer Port to Claret," &c. As far as concerns our Drinking, we wish there
was not quite so much truth in Monsieur's remarks: but the < haracicristic
«>f the French and English kitchen is, Sauce without Substance — and
Substance witliout Sauce.
To make Cayenne of English Chillies, of infinitely finer flavour than the
Indian, see (No. 404.)
G 2
124 BROTHS AND SOUPS.
London, 1817. A certain portion of Condiment is
occasionally serviceable to excite and keep up the
languid action of feeble and advanced Life; — we must
increase the stimulus of our aliment as the inirritability
of our system increases. — We leave those tcho hie these
thifigs, to use them as they like ; their flavours can be
very extemporaneously produced by Chilly-juice, or
essence of Cayenne (\o. 40.5), Eshallot wine (No. 40^),
and Essence of Anchovy (No. 433).
There is no French Dinner without Soup, which is re-
garded as an indispensable Oicrture ; - it is commonly
followed by " le Coup d'Apris^' a Glass of pure Wine,
which they consider so wholesome after Soup, that their
Proverb says, the Physician thereby loses a Fee; —
whether the glass of Wine be so much more advan-
tageous for the Patient than it is for his Doctor, we
know not, but believe it an excellent plan to begin the
Banquet with a basin of good Soup — which, by mode-
rating the Appetite for solid Animal food — is certainly
a salutifcrous custom. — Between the Roasts and the
Entremets — they introduce " /e Coup du Milieu'' — or
a small glass of Jamaica Rum, or Essence of' Punch,
see (No. 471); or Cuuac^ao (No. 474).
The introduction of Liqueurs is by no means a
modern custom ; our ancestors were very fond of a
highly s^:;;ccd stimulus of this sort, commonly called
Ipocrasse, which generally made a part of the last
course — or was taken immediately after dinner.
The Crafte to make Ypocras.
" Take a quarte of red wyne, an ounce of syTiamon,
and halfe an unce of gynger ; a quarter of an ounce of
greyne-s (probably of paradise) and long peper. and
halfe a pounde of sugar; and brose {bruise) all this
{not too small), and then put them in a bage {bag) of
wullen clothe, made therefore, with the Wyne ; and
lete it hange over a vessel, till the wynee be run
thorowe." — An extract from Arnold's Chronicle.
BROTHS AND SOUPS. 125
It is a Custom which almost universally prevails in
the Northern parts of Europe, to present a Dram or
glass of Liqueur, before sitting down to Dinner: — this
answers the double purpose of a whet to the Appetite,
and an announcement that Dinner is on the point of
being served up. — Along with the Dram, is presented
on a waiter, little square pieces of Cheese, slices of
cold Tongue, and dried Tongue, and dried Toast ac-
companied with fresh Caiiar.
We again caution the Cook to avoid Over- Seasoning,
especially with predominant flavours, which, however
agreeable they may be to some, are more extremely
disagreeable to others, see page 59.
Zest (No. 255), Soy (No. 436), — Cavice — Coratch
— Anchovy (No. 433), — Curry powder (No. 455),
— Savory Ragout Powder (No. 457), — Soup Herb
Powder — (No. 459) — and (460), — Browning (No.
322), — Catsups (No. 432), — Pickle liquor — Beer —
Wine, and Sweet Herbs, and Savory Spice (No. 460),
are very convenient auxiliaries to finish Soups, &c.
The proportion of Wixe (formerly Sack, — then
Claret, — now Madeira or Port) should not exceed a
large W' ine-glassful to a Quart of Soup : — this is as
much as can be admitted, without the vinous flavour
becoming remarkably predominant ; — though not only
much larger quantities of Wine, (of which Claret is in-
comparably the best, because it contains less spirit and
more flavour, and English palates are least acquainted
with it); but even veritable Eau de Vie is ordered in
many books, and used by many (especially Tavern
Cooks) — so much are their Soups overloaded with relish,
that if you will eat enough of them they will certainly
make you Drunk, if they don't make you Sick — all
this, frequently arises from an old Cook measuring the
excitability of the Eaters' palates by his own, — which
may be so blunted by incessant Tasting, that to awaken
it, — requires Wine instead of water, and Cayenne and
Garlick, for Black pepper and Onion.
126 BROTHS AND SOUPS.
Old Cooks are as fond of Spice — as Children are
of Sugar, and season SOUP, which is intended to
constitute a principal part of a Meal, — as highly
as SAUCE, of which only a spoonful may be Relish
enough for a plate of insipid Viands. See Obs. to
(No. 355.) — However, we fancy these large quan-
tities of Wine, &c. are oftener ordered in Cookery
Books than used in the Kitchen: — practical Cooks
have the Health of their employers too much at heart,
— and love " Same a la Langae'' too well, to overwine
their Soup, &c.
Truffles and Morels* are also set down as a
part of most receipts. — These, in their Green state,
have a very rich, high flavour, and are delicious addi-
tions to some dishes, or sent up as a stew by them-
selves, when they are fresh and Hne ; but in this state
they are not served up half a dozen times in a year, at
the first tables in the kingdom : — when dried, they be-
come mere " chip.s vi pottage,'^ and serve only to soak up
good Gravy, — from which, they take more Taste —
than they give.
The Art 0/ composing a rich Soup, is so to proportion
the several ingredients one to another, that no parti-
cular Taste be stronger than the rest ; — but lo produce
such a fine harmonious relish, that the whole is de-
lightful ; — this requires that judicious combination of
the materials which constitutes the " Jief-d'ainre'" oi
Culinary Science.
In the first place, take care that the Roots and Herbs
be perfectly well cleaned ; — proportion the Water to
the quantity of Meat, and other ingredients, — gene-
rally a pound of meat to a quart of water, for Soups ;
and"^ double that quantity for Gravies. If they Stt-iv
gently, little more water need be put in at first, than is
expected at the end ; — for when the Pot is covered
quite close and tiie fire gentle, very little is wasted.
• We tried to ni^ke Catsup of these by treating them like Musbr>.oru»
(No. 439), but did iiol succeed.
BROTHS AND SOUPS. 127
Gentle Stev/ing is incomparably the best, — the
Meat is more tender, and the Soup better flavoured.
It is of the first importance, that the Cover of a Soup
Kettle should fit very close, — or the broth will evaporate
^"before you are aware of it. The most essential parts
are soon evaporated by Quick Boiling — without any
benefit, except to fatten the fortunate Cook who inhales
them. — An evident proof that these Exhalations*
possess the most restorative qualities, is, that the Cook
— who is in general the least Eater — is, as generally,
the Fattest person in the Family — from, continually
being surrounded by the Quintessence of all the food
she dresses, — whereof, she sends to her Master only
the fibres and calcinations — who is consequently Thin
— Gouty — and the Victim of Diseases arising from
insufficient nourishment.
It is not only \\iejihrts of the meat which nourish us
— but the Juices they contain — and these are not only
extracted but exhaled, if it be boiled fast in an open
vessel — a succulent soup can never be made but in a
well closed vessel, which preserves the nutritive parts by
preventing their dissipation. — This is a fact of which
every intelligent person will soon perceive the im-
portance.
Place your Soup-pot over a moderate jire, Zihich mil
make the water hut, without causing it to boil — for at (east
ha/fan Hour ; — if the water boils immediately, —it will
not penetrate the meat, and cleanse it from the clotted
blood, and other matters which ought to go off in
skura ; the meat will be hardened all over by violent
* "A poor man beine v.ry hu. gry, staid so lon^ in a Cook's shop, -who
was difhing up meat, that hi? stomach was satisfied with only the smell thereof.
The Chi.ieiic Cook demanded of him to pay for his breakfast: the poor man
<ienie(i having had any, asid the controversy was referred to the deciding
of tlie i.est man that should pass by, who chanced to be the most notorious
Idiot in the whole city: he, oa the relation of the matter, determined that
the poor man's money should be put betwixt two empty dishes, and the cook
should be recompensed with the jinglii.g of the poor man's money, as he
was satistied with the smell uf the Cook's m.iat." This is affirmed by credible
•writers as no fable, but an undoubted truth. —Fcller's Holy State, lib. iii.
c. \<i. p. 2u.
128 BROTHS AND SOUPS.
Heat, — will shrink up as if it was scorched — and
give hardly any Gravy; — on the contrary, — by keep-
ing tlie Water a certain time heating without boil'ng —
the Meat swells — becomes tender — its fibres are di-
lated — and it yields a quantity of Skuniy which must
be taken off as soon as it appears.
It is not till after a good Half Hour's hot infusion,
that we may mend the Fire, and make the Pot boil —
still continue to remove t/ic Skum, and when no more
appears, put in the Vegetables, &c. and a little salt.
These will cause more Skum to rise — which must be
taken ofl' immediately — then cover the pot very closely,
and place it at a proper distance from the fire, where it
will boil very gently and equally, and by no means fast.
By quick and strong Boiling, the volatile and finest
parts of the ingredients are evaporated, and fly off with
the steam, and the coarser parts are rendered soluble;
— so you lose the good, and get the bad.
Soups will generally take T/irce to Six hours.
Prepare your Broths and Soups the Evening before
you uant t/iem. This will give you more time to at-
tend to the rest of your Dinner the next day; — and
when the Soup is cold, the Fat may be much more
easily and completely removed from the surface of it;
— when you decant it, take care not to disturb the
settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are so fine,
that they will escape through a Sieve, or even through
a Tammis, which is the best strainer, — the Soups ap-
pear smoother and finer — and it is much easier cleaned
than any sieve. If you strain it while it is Hot, pass it
through a clean Tammis or Napkin previously soaked
in cold water ; the coldness of this will coagulate the
Fat, and only suffer the pure Broth to pass through.
The full flavour of the Ingredients can only be ex-
tracted by very long and slow simmering ; — - during
which, take care to prevent Evaporation by covering the
Pot as close as possible : — the best Stewpot is a
Digester.
BROTHS AND SOUPS. 129
Clear Soups, must be perfectly transparent, — Thick-
ened Soups, about the consistence of rich Cream, —
and remember that Thickened Soups require nearly double
the quantity of Seasoning. — The Piquance of Spice, &c. is
as much blunted by the Flour and Butter, — as the Spirit
of Rum is by the addition of Sugar and Acid — so they
are less salubrious, without being more savoury — from
the additional quantity of Spice, &c. that is smuggled
into the Stomach.
To THICKEN AND GIVE BoDY TO SoU PS AND
Sauces, th^ follovvinp; materials are used- — they must
be gradually mixed with the Soup, till thoroughly incor-
porated with it; and it should have, at least, half an
hour's gentle simmering after : if it is at all lumpy, pass
it through a Tammis or a fine Sieve. — Bread raspings,
— Bread, — Isinglass, — Potatoe mucilage, (No. 448)
fat skimmings and Flour, see (No. 248) — or Flour and
Butter — or Flour ; Barley, see (No. 204), Rice, or Oat-
meal and water rubbed well together, see (No. 257), in
which this subject is fully explained.
To give that Glutinous quality so much admired in
Mock Turtle, see (No. 198), and^^ote under (No. 247),
(No. 252), and N. B. to (No. 48 1 .)
To their very rich Gravies, &c. the French add the
white meat of Pr.rtridges, Pigeons, or Fowls, pounded
to a pulp, and rubbed through a sieve ; — a piece of
Beef, which has been boiled to make Broth, pounded
in the like manner, v/ith a bit of butter and flour, (see
Obs. to (No. 485*) and (No. 503), and gradually incor-
porated with the Gravy or Soup, will be found a satis-
factory substitute for tliese more expensive articles.
Meat from which Broth has been made, (No. 185*) and
(No. 252), and all its juice has been extracted, is then
excellently well prepared for potting, see (No. 503),
— and is quite as good, or better than that which has
been baked till it is dry* ; indeed if it be pounded, and
• If the Gravy be not completely drained from it, the article potted wiH
very soon turn sour.
G 5
130
BROTTIS AND SOTPS.
seasoned in the usual manner, it will be an elegant and
savoury lAinchcon — or Supper, — and costs notlting-
but the trouble of preparing it, which is very little, and
a Relish is procured, for Sandwiches, &c., (No. 504)
— of what heretofore has been, by the poorest House-
keeper, considered the perquisite nf the Cat.
Keep SU771C spare Bridh, lest your Soup liquor waste
in boiling, and get too thick, and for Gravy for your
Made Dishes — various Sauces, &c. for many of
which it is a much better basis than Melted Butter.
The Soup of Mock Turtle, and the other thickened
Soups (No. 247), will supply you with a thick Gravy
Sauce for Poultry— Fish — kasiouts, &c. ; and by a little
management of this sort, you may generally contrive
to have plenty of Ciood Gravies and Good Sauces with
very little trouble or expense. See also Portable
Soup, (No. 252.)
Ij' Soup is to'j thin or too ucak, — take off the cover
of your soup-pot, and let it boil till some of the watery
part of it has evaporated, — or else, add some of the
Thickening materials we have before mentioned ; and
have at hand some plain Browning: see (No. 322;,
and the Obs. thereon. — This simple preparation is much
better than any of the compounds bearing that name,
as it colours Sauce or Soup, without much interfering
with its flavour, and is a much better way of Colouring
them than burning the surface of the Meat.
When Soups and Gravies are kept from day to day,
in Hot -weather, they should be wanned up every day,
and put into fresh scalded tureens, or pans, and placed
in a cool cellar; — in Temperate xceather, every other day
may be enough.
We hope we have now put the common Cook into pos-
session of the whole arcana of Soupmaking, — without
much trouble to herself, or expense to her employers ;
— and that it will not be said, in future, — that an
Englishman only knows how to make Soup in his Sto-
mach;— by swilling down a large quantity of Ale, or
BROTHS AND SOUPS. 131
Porter, to quench the thirst occasioned by the Meat
he eats : — John Bull may now make his Soup " se-
cundum artem'* and save his principal viscera a great
deal of trouble.
%* In the following Pieceipts we hare directed the
Spices* and Flavouring to be added at the usual time ; —
but it would greatly diminish the expense^ and improve the
Soups f if the Agents employed to give them a Zest, were not
put in above fifteen minutes before the finish, — and half the
quantity of spice, SfC. would do. — A strong Heat soon dis-
sipates the spirit of the Wine, and evaporates the aroma and
flavour of the Spices and Herbs, — which are volatile in the
heat of Boiling water.
In ordering the proportions of meat, — butter, —
WINE, &c. — the proper quantity is set down, and less will
not do : — we have carried Economy quite as far as pos-
sible without " spoiling the Broth for a halfpenny worth
ofSaltr
I conclude these remarks, with observing, that some
persons imagine that Soup tends to relax the Stomach
— so far from being prejudicial, we consider the mo-
derate use of such liquid nourishment, to be highly
salutary. — Does not our food and drink, even though
cold, become in a few minutes a kind of warm Soup in
the stomach ; — and, therefore, Soup, if not eaten too
hot, or in too great a quantity, and of proper quality,
is attended with great advantages, especially to those
who drink but little.
Warm Fluids in the form of Soup, unite with our
juices much sooner, and better, than those that are
coid and raw — on this account. Restorative Soup is
the best Food for those who are enfeebled by Disease
or Dissipation, and for old people, whose Teeth and
Digestive organs are impaired.
" Half subtiliz'd to Chyle— the liquid food
P^eadiest obeys th' assimilating powers."
• These Economijts recommend to be pounded ; they certainly go farther,
as they call it; — but we think they go too far, — for they go through ttiC
sieve, and make the soup grouty.
132
BROTHS AND SOUPS.
After catching Cold, — in Nervous headachs, — Cliolics,
Indigestions, and dirt'crent kinds of Cramp and Spasms
in the Stomach, — warm Broth is of excellent service.
After intemperate feasting-, to give the Stomach a
holiday, for a day or two, by a diet on Mutton Broth,
(No. 564) or (No. 572), or Vegetable Soup, (No. 218),
&c. is the best way to restore its Tone. See Peptic Pre-
cepts. *' The stretching any power to its utmost ex-
tent, weakens it. If the Stomach be every day obliged
to do as much as it can, it will every day be able to do
less. A wise traveller will never force his horse to
perform as much as he can, in one day, upon a long
journey." — I'aihcr Feyjoo's llulcs, p. 85.
To WARM Soups, &c. (No. 485.)
N.B. With the port.aiilf, J^oup, (No. 252), a pint
of Broth mav be made in five minutes for Three Pence.
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
CHAPTER VIII.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
" The Spirit of each dish, and Zest of all,
Is -what ingenious Cooks the liel'isfi call ;
For though the market sencis in loads of food,
They all are tasteless, till that makes them good."
King's Art oj'Cookerij.
*' Ex pariis, componere magna"
It is of as much importance that the Cook should know
how to make a boat of good Gravy for her Poultry, &c.
as that it should be sent up of proper complexion, and
nicely frothed.
In this Chapter we shall endeavour to introduce to
her all the Materials* vv'hich give flavour in Sauce,
v^'hich is the Essence of Soup, and intended to contain
more relish in a Tcaspoonful, than the former does in a
Tablespoonjul. And we hope to deserve as much
praise from the Economist, — as v/e do from the Bon
Vivar.t ; — as we have taken great pains to introduce to
him — the methods, of making Substitutes for those
ingredients, which are always expensive, and often not
to be had at all. These, those who have large families,
and limited incomes, will no doubt be glad to avail
themselves of.
* See in pages IIQ — 20 — and 21, a Catalogue of the Ingredient?
now used in Soups, Sauces, &cc.
134 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
The reader may rest assured, that whether he con-
sults this Book to diminish the expense, or increase
the pleasures of Hospitality, — he will find all the in-
formation that was to be obtained up to 1821, com-
municated in the most unreserved and intelligible
manner.
A great deal of the Elegance of Cookery, — depends
upon the Accompaniments to each dish being appro-
priate, and well adapted to it.
We can assure our readers, no attention has been
wanting on our part to render this department of the
work worthy their perusal: — each Receipt, — is the
faithful narrative of actual and repeated experiments, —
and has received the most deliberate consideration
before it was here presented to them. — It is given in
the most circumstantial manner, and not in the tech-
nical, and mysterious language former writers on these
subjects seem to have preferred: — by v.hich their
directions are useless and unintelligible to all who have
not regularly served an apprenticeship at the Stove.
Thus, instead of accurately enumerating the Quan-
tities, and explaining the process of each Composition,
— they order a ladleful of Stock, — a pint of Conwnmif,
— and a spoonful of Cul/is ; — as if a Private Family
Cook had always at hand a soup-kettle full of Stuck, a
store of Consomme, and the larder o{ Albion House— and
the Spoons and Vcmiyuortha were the same in all ages.
It will be to very little purpose I have taken so much
pains to teach how to manage Roasts and Boils,— if a
Cook cannot, or will not make the several Sauces that
are usually sent up with them.
The most homely fare may be made relishing, and
the most excellent and independent, improved by a
well made Sauce*, — as the most perfect Picture may
bv being well varnished.
• " It is the doty of a good Sance," says the editor of the Almanack des
Caurmaiids, (vol. v. page 6,) " to insinuate itself, all roand and about the
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 135
We have, therefore, endeavoured to give the plainest
directions — how to produce v^ith the least trouble and
expense* possible, — all the various compositions the
English kitchen affords for the amusenvent of honest
John Bull, — and hope to present not only a whole-
some, but palatable variety to suit all tastes, and all
pockets : so that a Cook may give satisfaction in all
families : the more combinations of this sort she is
acquainted with, the better she will comprehend the
management of every one of them.
We have rejected some Outlandish Farragoes — from a
conviction they were by no means adapted to an English
palate, — if they have been received into some English
books, for the sake of swelling the volumef, we believe
they will never be received by an Englishman's sto-
mach, unless for the reason they were admitted into
the Cookery book ; i. e. because he has nothing else
to put into it.
" maxillary glands, and impetjceptibly awaken iiito activity each ramitica-
" tion of the Organs of Taste: if not sutficiently savoury, it cannot produce
" this effect, and if too piquante, it will paralyze, instead of exciting, tlxse
" delicious tiiillations of tongue, and vibrations of Palate, that only the
" raost accomplished Philosophers of the Mouth can produce on the highly
" educated palates of thrice happy <Jrands Goiirmands."
* To save Time and Trouble is the most valuable frugaliiy; — rfiul if the
mistress of a family will cou lescend to devote a little time to the prolitable
and pleasant employment of preparing some of the Store Sauces, espr-
cially Nos. 322, 402, 404, 413, 429, 433, 439, 454 ; these, both Epicures ami
Economists will avail themselves of the advantage now given them, of
preparing at home.
By the hdlp of these, many Dishes may be dressed in half the usual Time,
— and with half the J'ronble and Expense, — and flavoured and finished with
much more certainty, than by the common methods.
A small poition of the lime which young Ladies sacrifice to tortoring the
strings of their Piano-Forte , employed in obtaining Domestic Accomplish-
ments— might not make them worse wives, or less agreeable Compaiiiuiis to
their Husbands. This was the opinion 200 years ago.
" To speak then of the Knowledges which belong unto our British House-
wife— 1 hold the most principal, to be a perfect skill in Cookeey : Shce
that is utterly ignorant therein, may not by the Lawes of strict Justice,
challenge the freedom of Marriage — becavne indeede Shee can perform but
half her vow — Shee may love and obey, but she cannot cherish and keepe
her Husband." — G. Markh\m's English Houseicife, 4to. l637, p. 62.
We hope our fair Readers will forgive us, for telling them, that Economy in
a Wife, — is the most certain Charm to ensure the Affection and Industry
of a Husband.
t Were these Books reduced to their Quintessence, many a bulky author
would make his appearance in a Penny Paper , — Set Spectator, No. 124.
Obs, on the Art of Book-making, &c.
136 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
However " ks pompeuses Bagatelles de la Cuisine Mas-
(juce' may tickle the fancy of dejni-connoi^setirs, who,
leaving; the substance, to pursue the shadow, — prefer
■wonderful and whimsical metamorphoses, and things
extravagantly expensive to those which are intrin-
sically excellent, — in whose mouth — Mutto.v can
hardly hope for a welconie, unless accompanied by
Venison Sance— or a Rabbit any chance for a race down
the Red Lane, without assuming the form of a Frog
or a Spider ; — or Pouk , without being either '* Goosijied"
or " Lnmhijied'' (see No. 51), and Game and Poultry
in the shape of Craxvfish or Hedgehogs.
These Travesties rather show the patience than the
science of the Cook, — and the bad taste of those who
prefer such Baby tricks* to old English nourishing and
substantial plain Cookery.
We could have made this the bifrf^ost Pookf with
half the trouble it has taken me to make it the best ; —
Concentration and Perspicuity have been my aim.
As much pains have been taken in describing, in the
most intelligible manner, how to make in the easiest,
most agreeable, and economical way, those Common
Sauces that dai/jj conlribiitt to the comfort of the Middle
ranks of Societv ; — as, in directing the preparation.
of those extravagant and elaborate double relishes,
the most ingenious and accomplished '* Oficers of the
Mouth" have invented for the amusement of profound
Palaticians, and thorough bred Grands Gourmands of
the first magnitude: — these we have so reduced the
trouble and expense of making, as to bring them within
the reach of moderate fortunes ; still preserving all that
is valuable of their taste and qualities; so ordering
them, that tiiey may delight the Talatc, without dis-
• " More for Shou- atid Sport than for Bellt-Timeer, and abont which
ibc Good IIus?ri/e never tronbles her head." — See Joan Cromwell's
Kitchen, ]6mo. i664, p. 3?.
+ I intend here to otter to all such as please to peruse it, " a plain EoOK,
which i3 ail and every part of it Book, and nothing but solid book from
beginning to end." — Vide Trefacc to Dr. Fuller's " Introductio ad
Prudentiam," Loudon, 12mo. 1721.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 137
ordering the Stomach; by leaving out those inflam-
matory ingredients which are only fit for an " iron
throat, and adamantine bowels/' and those costly ma-
terials, which no rational being would destroy, for the
wanton purpose of merely giving a fine name to the
compositions they enter into, to whose excellence they
contribute nothing else ; — for instance, consuming Txoo
Partridges to make sauce for One; — half a pint of
Game Gravy, (No. 329) will be infinitely more accept-
able to the unsophisticated appetite of Englishmen, for
whose proper and rational recreation we sat down to
compose these Receipts : — whose approbation, we have
done our utmost to deserve, by devoting much time to
the business of the Kitchen; and by repeating the
various processes that we thought admitted of the
smallest improvement.
We shall be fully gratified : if our Book is not bought
up with quite so much avidity by those high bred Epi-
cures, who are unhappily — so much more nice than
wise, — that they cannot eat any thing dressed by an
English Cook, — and vote it barbarously unrefined and
intolerably ungenteel, to endure the sight of the best
bill of fare that can be contrived, if written hi the Vul-
gar tongue of Old England*.
Let your Sauces each display a decided character ;
send up your plain Sauces {Oyster^ Lobster, 8fC.) as
pure as possible; — they should only taste of t lie materiah
from "which they take their name.
The imagination of most Cooks, is so incessantly on
the hunt for a Relish, — that they seem to think, they
can not make sauce sufficiently savoury, without put-
• Though some of these people seem at last to lia%'e found out, — that an
Englishman's head may be as full of gravy as a Frenchtaau's, — and willing
to give the preference to native talent, retain an English man or woman as
prime minister of their kitchen ; still they seem ashamed to confess it, and
commonly insist as a " sine quel iion," ihai their English domestics should
understand the " parlezvous ;" and notwithstanding ihey are perfectly
initiated in all the minutiae of the Philosophy of the mouth, con?i;ier them
ineligible, if they cannot scribble a hill of/are in pretty good bad i'reTic/i.
138 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
ting into it, every thing that ever was eaten; — and
supposing every addition must be an improvement,
they frequently overpower the natural flavour of their
PLAIN SAUCES, by Overloading them with salt and
spices, &c.: — but, remember, these will be deterio-
rated by any addition, save only just salt enough to
awaken the Palate — the Lover of" Piquance' and Com-
pound Flavours, may have recourse to " the Magazine
of Taste," {^0.463.)
On the contrary, of Compound Sauces --the ingre-
dients should be so nicely proportioned, that no one be
predominant; — so that, from the equal union of the
combined flavours, such a fine mellow mixture is pro-
duced, whose very novelty cannot fail of being accept-
able to the persevering Gourmand, if it has not pre-
tensions to a permanent place at his table.
An ingenious Cook will form as endless a variety of
these compositions as a Musician with his seven* notes,
• — or a Painter with his colours ; — no part of her
business offers so fair and frequent an opportunity to
display her abilities, — Spices, Herbs, &c. are often
very absurdly and injudiciously jumbled together.
Why have Clove and Allspice, — or Mace and Nut-
meg in the same sauce, — or Marjorum, — Tliynie, —
and Savory; — or Onions, — Leeks, — Eshallots — and
Garlick: — one will very w^ll supply the place of the
other, — and the frii!2:al Cook may save something
considerable by attending to this, to the advantage of
her employers, and her own time and trouble. — You
might as well, to make Soup, order one quart of water
from the Thames, another from the New River, a third
from Ilampslead, and a fourth from Chelsea, with a cer-
tain portion of Spring and P\.'iin Water.
In many of our Receipts, we have fallen in with the
• The principal Agents now employed to flavour Soups and Sauci s, arc
Mlshruoms (No. 139), Onions (No. 420), Anchovy (No. -133), Lemon
Juice and Pekl, or Vinegar, Wine, (especially good Claret), Sweet
Herbs, and Savoury Spice? — Nos. 420, 21, 22, and 457, 59, 60.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES, 43&
fashion of ordering a mixture of Spices, &c. which the
above hint will enable the culinary student to correct.
'* Pharmacy is now much more simple, — Cookery
may be made so too. A Prescription which is now
compounded with five ingredients, had formerly fifty in
it — and people begin to understand, that the Materia
Medica is little more than a collection of Evacuants,
and Stimuli." — BosweWs Life of Johnson.
The Ragouts of the last Cejitury had infinitely more
ingredients than we use now — the praise given to
Will. Rabisha for his Cookery, 12mo. 1673, is
" To fry and fricasee, his way's most neat.
For he compounds a thousaad sorts ot meat."
To become a perfect Mistress of the art of cleverly
extracting and combining Flavours*, besides the gift
of a good Taste, requires all the experience and skill
of the most accomplished Professor, and especiallv, —
an intimate acquaintance with the Palate she is work-
ing for.
Send your Sauces to table as Hot as possible.
Nothing need be more unsightly, than the Surface
of a Sauce in a frozen state, or garnished with grease
on the top; — the best way to get rid of this, is to pass
it through a Tammis or Napkin previously soaked in
cold water, the coldness of the napkin will coagulate
the Fat, and only suffer the pure gravy to pass through;
— if any particles of Fat remain, take them off by ap-
plying filtering paper, as blotting paper is applied to
Ink.
Let your Sauces boil up after you put in Wine,
Anchovy, or Thickening, that their flavours may be
well blended with the other ingredients f ; and keep in
mind, that the " chej-doeuvre' of Cookehy, — is to
entertain the Mouth without offending the Stomach.
* If your palate becomes dull by repeatedly tasting, the best way to refresh
it, is to wash your mouth well with milk.
t Before you put Eggs or Cream into a Sauce, hcve all your other
ingredients well boiled, and tiie sauce or eonp of proper thickness, — because
140 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
N.B. Although I have endeavoured to give the par-
ticular quantity of each ingredient used in the following
Sauces, as they are generally made, — still the Cook's
judgment must direct her to lessen or increase either
of the ingredients, — according to the taste of those
she works tor, and will always be on the alert to
ascertain what are the favourite Accompaniments desired
with each dish. See Adxice to Cooks, page 59.
When you open a bottle of Catsup, (No. 439),
Essence of Anchoxy, (No. 433), Szc. throw away the
old cork, and stop it closely with a new cork that
will fit it very tight. Use only the best superfine Vel-
vet taper corks.
Economy in Corks is very unwise, — in order to save
a mere trifle, in the price of the cork, you run the risk
of losing the valuable article it is intended to preserve.
— It is a J'ulgar Error, that a bottle must be well
stopped, when the cork is forced down even with the
mouth of it, — this is a sure sign that the Cork is too
small, and it should be re-drawn and a lars:er one
put in.
TO MAKE BOTTJ.E CEMENT.
Half a pound of black rosin, same quantity of red
sealing wax, quarter oz. bees wax, melted in an earthen
or iron pot; when it froths up, before all is melted and
likely to boil over, stir it with a tallow candle, which
will settle the froth till all is melted and fit for use.
Red wax, lOd. per lb. may be bought at Mr. Dew's,
Blackmore Street, C lare Market.
N.B. 'I'his cement is of very great use in preserving
things that you wish to keep a long time, which without
its help would soon spoil, from the clumsy and in-
effectual manner the Bottles are corked.
neither eggs nor cream will contribute to thicken it. — After you have put
them in,~(lo not set the sitwpan on the siove Hgain, — but hold it over the
fire, and shake it round one way till the sauce is ready.
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY.
CHAPTER IX.
MADE DISHES.
Undeu this general head we range our Receipts for
Hashes, — Stews,-— and Ragouts*, &c.; of these
there are a great multitude, affording the ingenious
Cook an inexhaustible store of variety : — in the French
kitchen they count upwards of 600, and are daily
inventing new ones.
We have very few general observations to make,
after what we have already said in the two preceding
Chapters on — Sauces, — Soups, &c., which apply to
the present chapter, as they form the principal part
of tlie accompaniment of most of these dishes. In fact,
Made Dishes are nothing more than Meat, — Poultry
(No. 530), or Fish (No. 146, 158, or 164), stewed very
gently till they are tender, with a thickened Sauce
poured over them.
Be careful to trim of all the Skin, — Gristle, SfC. that will
not be eaten, and shape handsomely and of even thickness,
the "curious articles which compose your Made Dishes, —
this is sadly neglected by common Cooks, — only Stew
them till they are just tender, and not do them to rags. —
I'herefore, what you prepare the Day before it is to be
eaten, do not do quite enough the first day.
• Sauce for Kagouts, &c., slioiikl be tliickened till it is of the consistence
of good rich Cream, that it may adhere to whatever it is poured over.
When you have a large dinner to dress, keep ready mixed some fine sifted
Flour and water well rubbed together till quite smooth, and about as thick as
Butter. See (Xo. 2570
142 MADE DISHES.
We have given Receipts for the most easy and simple
way to make Hashes, &c. Those who are well skilled
in Culinary arts, can dress up things in this wav,
so as to be as agreeable as they were the first time
they were cooked; — but Hashing is a very bad mode
of Cuokeri/y — if Meat is done enough the first time it
is dressed, — a second dressing will divest it of all its
nutritive juices, — and if it can be smuggled into the
stomach by bribing:: the Palate with pifjua/ite Sauce, — it
is at the hazard of an Indigestion, &c.
I promise those who do me the lionour to put my
Receipts into practice, that they will find that the most
nutritious and tnily elegant dishes, are neither the most
ditficult to dress, — the most expensive, — or the most
iudigestible ; — in those compositions, Experience will
go far to diminish Expense; -- M tat that is too old or
too tough for Roasting, SfC, muy by gentle sttuing be
rendered saioury and digestible — if some of our Receipts
do differ a little from those in former Cookery Books,
let it be remembered we have advanced nothing in this
work that has not been tried, and experience has proved
correct.
N.B. See (No. 483) an Ingenious and Economical
System of Fui:nch Cookery, written at the request
of the Kditor by a very accomplished English Lady,
which will teach you how to supply your Table with
elegant little Made Dishes, &c. at a's little expense as
Plain Cookery.
THE
COOK'S ORACLE.
N.B. Read the Marketing Tables at the end of the Volume.,
BOILING.
READ THE FIRST CHAPTER OF THE RUDIMENTS 0?
COOKERY.
Leg of Mutton.^^0. 1.)
Cur oft' the Shank Bone, and trim the Knuckle, — put it
into lukewarm water for ten minutes, wash it clean,
cover it with cold water, and let it simmer -very gently,
and skim it carefully. — A Leg of nine pounds will take
two and a lialf or three hours, if you like it thoroughly
done, especially in very Cold weather.
For the Accompaniments see the following- Receipt.
N. B. The Tit Bits with an Epicure, are the
" Knuckle" the kernel, called the " Pope's Eye," and
the " Gentlcmans" or " Crawp Bonc.y'' or as it is called
in Kent, the " Caw Caw," — four of these, and a
Bounder — furnish the little Masters and Mistresses of
Kent with the most favourite set of playthings.
A Leg of Mutton stewed very slowly, as we have
directed the Beef to be, (No. 493,) will be as agreeable
to an English palate as the famous " Gigot ^ de sept
heures" of the French Kitchen.
* The Gigoi is the leg with part of ihe luia.
144 BOILING.
When Mutton is very large, you may divide
it, and roast the Fillet, i. e. the large end, — and boil the
Knuckle end, — and you may also cut some fine Cutlets
off the thick end of the Leg, — and so have Two or Three
good Hot Dinners.
The Liguur the Mutton is boiled in you may convert
into Good Sour in Fiie Minutes, see N. B. No. 218,
and Scotch Barley Broth, No. 204. — Tiius managed, a
Leg of Mutton is a most Kconomical Joint.
Neck of Mutton.— (No. 2.)
Put four or five pounds of the best end of a Neck,
(that has been kept a few days) into as much cold soj't
water as will cover it, and about two inches over, let it
simmer xrry slowly for two hours ; — it will look most
delicate if you do not take oti' the Skin till it has been
boiled.
For Sauce, that elegant and innocent relish, Parsley
and Butter (No. 261), or Eshallot (No. 294 or 5),
or Caper sauce (No. 274,) Mock Caper sauce (No. 275,)
and Onion Sauce (No. 298), Turnips (No. 130), or
Spinage (No. 121), arc the usual Accompaniments to
Boiled Mutton.
Lamb. — (No. 3.)
A Leg of five pounds should simmer very gently
for about Two Hours, from the time it is put on, in cold
water. — After the general rules for boiling, in the
first chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery, we have
nothing to add, only to send up with it, Spinage,
(No. 122), Rrocoli (No. 126), Cauliflower (No. 125),
&c., and for Sauce (No. 261).
Veal.— (No. 4.)
This is expected to come to table looking very deJi-
cately clean, — it is so easily discoloured, you must be
careful to have clean water, — a clean vessel, — and
constantly catch the scum as soon and as long as it
BOILING. 145
rises, and attend to the directions before given in the
first Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. Send
up Bacon (No. 13), Fried Sausages (No. 87), or
pickled Pork, Greens, (No. 118, and following Nos.) and
Parsley and Butter (No. 261), Onion Sauce (No. 298).
N. B. For Receipts to Cook Veal, see from
(No. 512) to (No. 521).
Beef Bouilli, — {^o. 5),
In plain i\nglish, is understood to mean Boiled Beef;
— but its culinary acceptation, in the French kitchen, is
fresh beef dressed without boiling, and only very gently
simmered by a slow fire.
English Cooks have seldom any notion, that good
Soup can be made without destroying a great deal of
Meat* : — however, by a judicious regulation of the Fire,
and a vigilant attendance on the Soup kettle, this may
be accomplished — and you shall have a tureen of
such Sonp as will satisfy the most fastidious Palate,
— and the Meat make its appearance at table, at the
same time, in possession of a full portion of nutritious
succulence.
This requires nothing more than to Stew the meat
rery slowly, (instead of keeping the pot boiling a gallop, as
common Cooks too commonly do) — and to take it up as soon
as it is done enough. See '* Soup and Bouilh^" (No. 238,)
* *' Ce n'est pas la qiiantite de viande qui fait seule le bon bouillon,
mais la maniere doiit le potanfeu e.<t conduit. Ou'.est-ce que le bouillon?
Une dLCoction de viande couteuaut de I'extractif aniniai qui la colore, (cet
extractif, nomme par le cel^bre Ihenaid osmazome, coiitient aussi toute la
partie savoureuse I'e la viande), du sel, mais surtout de la gelatine. Pour
que la viande cede a, I'eau ces priucipes il faut que celled la penetrc avec
une Itmperatiire graduee, dilate les fibres musculaires, et dissolve la gelatine
qui y est iulerposee : mais dans cesraenies muscles il y a aussi de I'aldumine
(malieie analogue au blanc d'ceuf, et qui forme I'^cume du pot). Ceft'e
albumine se coagule, et se durcit a la temperature de quatre vingt degres.
Si done vous poussez rapidemcnt votre pot-au feu au point de la faire bouillir
avant que la viande soit dilutee et penetree par I'eau, qu'arrive-t -il? L'albu-
mine se coagule dans la viande raeme, et empeche la gelatine d'en sortir ; —
vous avez un Bouillon faible, et un Bouilli <lur; mais, au contraire, si vous
avez menage le feu de manidre que la viande ait eu le temps d'etre penetree,
Valbumine s'eleve en ecume, la gilat'me se dissout, le Bouillon est savou-
reux, nourrissant, et le Bouilli tendre. — Voila toute la theorie du pot-au-feu."
— Cours Gastrononuque, 1809, P- 291.
U
146 BOILING.
" Shin of Beef Steu-ed^'i^o. 493,)'' Scotch Barley Broth;'
(No. 204,) and page 119.
Meat cooked in this manner, affords much more
nourishment than it does dressed in the common
way, — is easy of di<restion in proportion as it is tender,
— and an invigorating- substantial diet, especially valu-
able to the Poor, whose laborious employments require
support.
If they could get good Eating put within their reach,
they would often go to the Butcher's shop, when they
now run to the Public house.
Among tlie variety of Schemes that have been suggested
for BETTERING THE CONDITION OE OUR F.NGLISH
Poor, a more useful or extensive Charity cannot be
devised, than that of instructing them in Economical
and Comforta/dt Cookery.
" The Poor in Scotland, and on the Continent,
manage much better. Oatmeal Porridge (No 205 and
572) and Milk constitute the Breakfast and Supper
of those patterns of Industry, Frugality, and Tem-
perance, the Scottish Peasantry.
" When they can afford Meat, they form with it
a large quantity of Barley Broth (No. 204) with a
variety of Vegetables, by boiling the whole a long
time, enough to serve the Fajuily for several days.
" When they cannot afford .Meat, they make Broth
of Barley and other Vegetables, with a lump of Butter,
(see No. 229), all of which they boil for many hours,
and this with Oat Cakes forms their dinner. — The
Hon. John Cochrane's Seaman s Guide ^ p. 34.
The Cheapest method of fnaking a Nourishing
Soup — is least known to those who have most need
of it — it will enable those who have small Incomes and
large Families — to make the most of whatever they
possess, without pinching their Children of that whole-
some nourishment which is necessary, for the purpose
of rearing them up to maturity in Health and Strength. ^
l^ie Labouring Classes seldom purchase what are
BOILING.
147
called the coarser pieces of Meat, because they do not
know how to dress them, but lay out their money in
pieces for Roasting, &c., of which the Bones, &c.
enhance the price of the actual Meat to nearly a
shilling per pound, — and the Diminution of weight
by roasting amounts to 32 per cent. — This, for the sake
of saving time, trouble, and fire, is generally sent
to an oven to be Baked, — the nourishing parts are
evaporated and dried up, — its Weight is dinmiished
nearly one-third, — and all that a poor man can afford
to purchase with his Week's earnings, perhaps does
not half satisfy the appetites of himself and family
for a couple of Days.
If a hard-working Man cannot get a comfortable
meal at home, he soon finds the way to the Public
house, — the poor Woman contents herself with Tea
and Bread and Butter, — and the Children are little
better than starved.
Our neighbours the French are so justly famous for
their skill in the affairs of the Kitchen, that the adage
says, " as many Frenchmen as many Cooks;" sur-
rounded as they are by a profusion of the most
delicious Wines and most seducing Liqueurs, offering
every temptation and facility to render drunkenness
delightful, yet a tippling Frenchman is a " Rara Avis ;"
— they know how so easily and completely to keep
Life in repair by good Eating, that they require little
or no adjustment from Drinking.
This accounts for that " toujours Gai," and happy
equilibrium of spirits, which they enjoy with more
regularity than any people: — '1 heir Stomachs being
unimpaired by spirituous liquors, embrace and digest
vigorously the food they sagaciously prepare for it, and
render easily assimilable by cooking it sufficiently^ —
wisely contriving to get the difficult part of the work
of the Stomach done by Fire and Water,
h2
148 BOILING
To SALT Meat.— (No. 6.)
In the Sunmier Season especially. Meat is frequently
spoiled by the Cook forgetting to take out the Kernels':
one in the udder of a round of Beef, — in the fat in the
middle of the Round, — those about the thick end of
the Flank, &c. ; if these are not taken out, all the Salt
in the \vorld will not keep the Meat.
The Art or Salting Meat, is to rub in the Salt
thoroughly and evenly into every part, and to fill all
the holes full of Salt where the kernels were taken out,
— and where the Butcher's skewers were.
A Round of Beef of 25 pounds will take a pound
and a half of Salt to be rubbed in all at first, and
requires to be turned and rubbed every day with the
Brine: it will be ready for dressing in four or five
days*, if you do not wish it very salt.
In Summer, the sooner Meat is salted after it is
killed the better, and care must be taken to defend
it from the tlies.
In IVinter, it will eat the shorter and tenderer, if
kept a few days (according to the temperature of the
weather) before it is salted.
In Frosty ueut/ier, take care the Meat is not frozen,
and warm the Salt in a Frying-pan. The extremes of
Heatf and Cold are equally unfavourable for the pro-
cess of Salting — in the former the meat changes before
the salt can affect it,— in the latter it is so hardened,
and its juices are so congealed, that the salt cannot
penetrate it.
If you uuh it Red, rub it first with Saltpetre, in the
proportion of half an ounce and the like quantity of
• Ij'not to he cut till Cold, two days longer salting will not only improve
its flavour, but the Meat will keep belter.
tin the West Indies they can scarcely cure Beef with pickle, but easily
preserve it by cutting it into thin slic« s and dipping them in Sea Water,
and then drying them quickly in the Sun ; to which they give the name of.
Jerked £ef/.— BROWNRHic on Salt, 8vo. p. 762.J
BOILING. 149
moist sugar to a pound of common Salt, see Savoury
Salt Beef (No. 496.)
You may impregnate Meat with a very agreeable
Vegetable Flavour, by pounding some Sweet Herbs
(No. 459) and an Onion with the Salt: you may make it
still more relishing by adding a little Zest (No. 255),
or Savoury Spice j (No. 457.)
To Pickle Meat,
" Six pounds of Salt, one pound of Sugar, and four
ounces of Saltpetre, boiled with four gallons of water
skimmed, and allowed to cool, forms a very strong
pickle, which will preserve any Meat completely im-
mersed in it. To effect this, which is essential, either
a heavy board or a flat stone must be laid upon the
meat. The same pickle may be used repeatedly, pro-
vided it be boiled up occasionally with additional salt
to restore its strength, diminished by the combination
of part of the salt with the meat, and by the dilution
of the pickle by the juices of the meat extracted. By
boiling, the Albumeii which would cause the pickle to
spoil, is coagulated and rises in the form of scum, which
must be carefully removed." — See Supplement to En-
cyclop, Britan. vol. iv. p. 340.
An H-bone of 10 or 12 pounds weight will require
about three quarters of a pound of Salt and an ounce
of Moist Sugar to be well rubbed into it; — it will be
ready in four or five days, if turned and rubbed every
day.
The Time Meat requires Salting, depends upon the
Weight of it, — how much Salt is used, — if it be rubbed
in with a heavy hand, it will be ready much sooner
than if only lightly rubbed.
N. B. Dry the Salt and rub it with the Sugar in a
mortar.
Pork requires a longer time to cure (in proportion
150 BOILING.
to its weight) than Beef: a Leg of Pork shou]d he in
salt eight or ten days; turn it and rub it every day.
Salt meat should be ucll ivashed before it is Boiled, —
especially if it has been in salt long, — that the Liquor
in which the meat is boiled, may not be too salt to
make Soup of, (No. 218, &c.) and (No. 555.)
If it has been in salt a long time, and you think it
will be too salt, wash it well in cold water, and soak
it in lukewarm water for a couple of hours: — if it is
rery Salt, lay it in water the night before you intend to
dress it.
A Round of Suited Beef— (No. 7.)
As this is too large for a moderate family, we shall
write directions for the dressing half a round : get the
Tongue side.
Skewer it up tight and round, and tie a fillet of broad
tape lound it, to keep the skewers in their places.
Put it into plenty of cold water, and carefully catch
the scum as soon as it rises; — let it boil till all the
scum is removed, and then put the boiler on one side
of the fire, to keep simmering slowly till it is done.
Half a round of lolbs. will take about three hours
— if it weighs more, give it more time.
When you take it up, if any stray scum, &c. sticks
to it, that has escaped the vigilance of your skimmer,
wash it olf with a Paste Brush — garnish the dishes with
Carrots and Turnips: — send up Carrots, (No. 129),
Turnips, (No. 1 30), and Parsnips, or Greens, (No. 1 1 B)»
&c. on separate dishes. Pease pudding, (No. 555,)
and Mv Pudding, (No. 551), are all very proper
Accompaniments.
N. B. The Outside Slices, which are generally too
much salted and too much boiled, will make a very
good relish as J 'ut ted Beef, (No. 503.) For using up
the remains of a Joint of Boiled Beef, see also Bubble
and Squeak, (No. 505.)
BOILING. 151
H-Bo?ieofBeef,(No, 8),
Is to be managed in exactly the same manner as the
Round, but will be sooner boiled, as it is not so solid :
an H-bone of 201bs. will be enough in about three
hours and a half, — of lOIbs. in two hours. Be sure the
boiler is big enough to allow it plenty of water-room ;
let it be well covered with water, set the pot on one
side of the fire to boil gently ; if it boils quick at first,
no art can make it tender after ; the slower it boils, the
better it will look, and the tenderer it will be. The same
accompanying vegetables, as in the preceding Receipt.
Dress plenty of Carrots, as cold Carrots are a general
favourite v/ith cold Beef.
Mem. — The Epicures say that the soft Fat like mar-
row, which lies on the back, is delicious when Hot,
and the hard Fat about the upper corner is best when
Cold.
To make perfectly good Pease Soup in Ten
Minutes, of the Liquor in which the Beef has been boiled,
see N.B. to(No. 218.)
Obs. — In " Mrs. Mason's Ladies' Assistant" this joint
IS called Haunch-bone ; in ■' Henderson's Cookery," jEt/ge-
bone ; in '* Domestic Management," Aitch-bone; in
'' Reynolds' Cookery," Ischebone ; m " Mrs. Lydia
Fisher's Prudent Housewife," A c h-bone ; in '* Mrs.
M^Iver's Cookery, Hook-bone. We have also seen it
spelt Each-hone, and Ridge-horvQ, and we have also
heard it called Natch-Bone.
N. B. Read the note under (No. 7), and to make
perfectly good Pease Soup of the Pot-Liquor, in
Ten Minutes, see Obs, to (No. 218), (No. 229), and
(No. 555.)
Ribs of Beef salted and rolled— (No. 9.)
Briskets, and the various other pieces, are dressed
in the same way. " JFoxv Wow' sauce, (No. 328), is an
agreeable Companion.
152
BOILING.
Haifa Calfs Head.— (No. 10.)
Cut it in two, and take out the Brains; — wash the
liead well in several waters, and soak it in warm water
for ten minutes before you dress it. Put the Head into
a Saucepan with plenty of cold water : when it is
comin<5 to a boil, and the scum rises, carefully remove
it. Half a Calf's-Head {xi'iihout the .skin) will take
from an hour and a quarter to two hours, according to
its size: uith the Skin on about an hour longer: — it
must be .steucd ten/ gcntii/ till it is tender ; it is then
extremely nutritive, and easy of digestion.
Put eight or ten Sage leaves (some Cooks use
Parsley instead, or equal parts of each,) into a small
saucepan, — boil them tender (about half an hour\ then
<'hop them very fine, and set them ready on a plate.
\\ ash the Brains well in two waters, put them into
a large Basin of cold water, with a little salt in it, and
let them soak for an hour>— then pour away the cold,
and cover them with hot water, and when you have
cleaned and skinned tliem, put them into a Stewpan
with plenty of cold water, — when it boils, take the
scum oft" very carefully— and boil gently for 10 or 15
minutes, — now chop them, (not very fine), put them into
a saucepan with the Sage leaves and a couple of table-
spoonsful of thin melted butter and a little salt, (to this
some Cooks add a little Lemon juice, Mushroom catsup,
and Cayenne), stir them well together, and as soon as
they are well warmed (take care they don't burn) skin
the Tongue — trim off the roots, and put it in the
middle of a dish, and the Brains round it. Or, chop the
Brains with a Shallot, a little Parsley, and four hard
boiled Eggs, and put them into a quarter of a pint of
Bechamel, or White Sauce, (No. 2 of 364). A Calf's
Cheek is usually attended by a Pig's cheek, a knuckle
of Ham or Bacon, (No. 13), or (No. 526), or pickled
Pork, (No. 11), and Greens, Brocoli, Cauliflowers^ or
BOILING. 163
Peas, and always by Parsley and Butter, see (No. 261),
or (No. 311), or (No. 343.)
If you like it full dressed, score it superficially,
— beat up the yolk of an Egg, and rub it over the
head witb a feather; — powder it with a seasoning- of
finely minced (or dried and powdered) winter Savory or
Lemon-thyme, (or sage), Parsley, Pepper, and Salt, and
bread crumbs, and give it a brown with a salamander,
or in a tin Dutch oven : when it begins to dry, sprinkle
a little melted butter over it with a paste brush. You
may Garnish the Dish with Broiled Rashers of Bacon,
(No. 526, or 527.)
Ohs. — Calfs head is one of the most delicate and
favourite dishes in the list of boiled meats ; — but no-
thing is more insipid v/hen cold : and nothing makes
so nice a Hash ; therefore, don't forget to save a quart
of the Liquor it was boiled in, to make Sauce, &c. for
the Hash, see also (No. 520.) Cut the head and
tongue into slices, and slice some of the Bacon that
was dressed to eat with the head, and lay them ready
on a plate.
Take the bones and the trimmings of the Head, a
bundle of Sweet Herbs, an Onion, a roll of Lemon
Peel, and a blade of bruised Mace: put these into
a saucepan, v/ith the quart of liquor you have saved,
and let it boil gently for an hour, pour it through a
sieve into a basin — washout yourstewpan — add a table-
spoonful of flour to the Brains, and Parsley and Butter
you have left, and pour it to the gravy you have made
with the bones and trim.mings; let it boil up for ten
minutes, and then strain it through a hair sieve: sea-
son it with a tablespoonful of white Wine, or of Catsup,
(No. 439), or Sauce superlative, (No. 429) : give it a
boil up, skim it, and then put in the Brains and the
slices of Head and Bacon; as soon as they are tho-
roughly warm, {it must not boil), the hash is ready.
Some Cooks — Egg bread crumb and fry the finest
pieces of the head— and lay them round the hash.
N. B. You may garnish the edges of the dish with
H 5
154 TiOlLlNG.
slires of Bacon toasted in a Dutch oven, see (Nos(.
5'2(} and .'V27 ., slices of Lemon, and Fried Bread.
To make Gravy for Hashes, &c. see (No. 360.)
PicklrdPork—i'So. 11),
Rcqiilrcs more time than any meat. When you
cook a Le^jj, wash and scrape it as clean as possible ;
wh»?n dtlicateiy dressed, it is a favourite dish with al-
most every body; take rare it dacs not Boil fast ; if it
does, the Knuckle will break to j)ieces, before the thick
part of the meat is warm through: a LKG of seven
pounds takes nearly three hours very S/oxv simwcring.
Skim your pot very carefully, and when you take the
meat out of the Boiler — scrape it clean.
Some sa;:;acious Cooks (who remember, to how many
more nature has given Kyes. than she has given Tongues
and Ihuins), when Pork is boiled, score it in Diamonds,
and take out every other square — and thus, present a
retainer to the Eye to plead for them to the palate — a
kg of nice Pork, nicely salted, and nicely boiled,
is as favourite a cold relish as cold Ham — especially
if, instead of cutting into the middle when hot, and
so letting out its juices — you cut it at the Knuckle —
slices broiled, as (No. 487), are a good Luncheon,
or Supper. — To make Pease Pudding, and Pease
?;oup EXTEMPORE, SCO N. B. to (Nos. 218 and 555.)
If not done enough, nothing is more disagreeable;
— if too much — it not only loses its colour and Havour,
^ut its substance becomes soft, like a jelly.
It must never appear at table without a good Pease
Fudding, (see No. 555), and if you please, Parsnips,
(No. 128), or Carrots, (No. 129), Turnips and Greens,
or Mashed Potatoes, &c. (No. 106.)
OLs. Remember not to forget the Mustard Pot,
(No. 369, No. 370, and No. 427).
Pctit-Tues, or Sucking Pigs Fa7.— (No. 12.)
Put a thin slice of Bacon at the bottom of a stewpan
with some broth, a blade of mace, a few peppercorns,
BOILING. 155
and a bit of thyme : — boil the feet till they are quite
tender: this will take full twenty minutes : — but the
heart, liver, and lights, will be done enough in ten,
when they are to be taken out, and minced fine.
Put them all together into a Stewpan with some
Gravy, thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour,
season it with a little pepper and salt, and set it over
a gentle fire, to simmer for five minutes, frequently
shaking them about.
While this is doing, have a thin slice of Bread
toasted very lightly, divide it into Sippets, and lay
them round the dish : pour the mince and sauce
into the middle of it, and split the feet and lay them
round it.
N. B. Pettitoes are sometimes boiled and dipped in
batter, and fried a light brown.
Obs. — If you have no Gravy in the water you stew
the pettitoes in, put an Onion, a sprig of Lemon thyme,
or sweet Marjoram, with a blade of bruised Mace,
a few black Peppers, and a large teaspoonful of Mush-
room catsup, (No. 439), and you will have a very
tolerable substitute for Gravy. A bit of (No. 252) will
be a very great improvement to it.
Bacon. — {^0. 13.)
Cover a pound of nice streaked Bacon (as the
Hampshire housewives say — that " has been starved
one day and fed another,") with cold water, — let
it boil gently for three quarters of an hour; take it up,
scrape the underside well, and cut off the rind: grate
a crust of bread not only on the top but all over it,
as directed for the Ham in the following receipt, and
put it before the fire for a few minutes ; it must not be
there too long, or it will dry it and spoil it.
Ttco pounds will require about an hour and a half; ac-
cording to its thickness, — the hock or gammon being
very thick, will take more.
Obs. See (Nos. 526 and 527): when onli/ a little
Bacon is ivantcd, these are the best ways of dressing it.
156 BOILING,
The boiling of Bacon, is a very J^implc subject to
comment upon, but our main object is to teach com-
mon Cooks the art of dressing- common food, in the
best manner: Bacon is son'.etimes as salt as salt can
make it; therefore, before it is boiled, it must be soaked
in warm water for an hour or two, changing the water
once; then pare off the rusty and smoked part, trim it
nicely on the underside, and scrape the rind as clean
as possible.
Mem. Bacon' is an extravagant article in Ilaiisc-
lieejiing, — there is often tWice as much dressed as
need be,-- when it is sent to table tis an accompani-
ment to boiled Poultry or Veal, a pound and a half is
plenty for a dozen people. A good Oeiman Sausage
is a very economical substitute for Bacon, — or fried
Vork Sumages, (No. 87.)
///3w, — (No. 14),
Though of the Bacon kind, has been so altered and
hardened in the particular way of curing, that it
requires still more care.
Ham is generally i40t half soaked,— as salt as Brine,
— and hard as Flint: and it would puzzle the Stomach
of an Ostrich to digest it.
Meji. The Salt, Seasoning, and Smoke, which pre-
serve it before it is eaten, prevent its solution after —
and unless it be very long, and very gently stewed,
the strongest Stomacli will have a tough Job to ex-
tract any nourishment from it. If it is a lery dry
Wcdphaiia Ham, it nnist be soaked, according to its
age and thickness, from 12 to 24 hours;— for a Green
Yorkshire or Westmoreland Ham, from 4 to 8 hours
will be sufficient. Luke warm water will soften it
much sooner than cold — when sufficiently soaked,
trim it nicely on the under side — and pare oft" all the
rusty and smoked parts till it looks delicately clean.
Give it plenty of water room, and put it in while the
water is cold, — let it be well scummed, and keep it sim-
mering gently : a middling sized ham of fifteen pounds-
BOILING. 157
will be enough in about four or five hours, according to
its thickness. If not to he cut till Cold, it will cut the
shorter and tenderer for being boiled still longer.
Pull oft^ the Skin carefully, and preserve it as whole
as possible, it will form an excellent covering to keep
the Ham moist : — when you have removed the skin, rub
some Bread Raspings through a Hair-sieve, or grate a
crust of Bread, put it into the perforated cover of the
Dredging box, and shake it over it, or glaze it; trim
the Knuckle with a fringe of cut writing paper. You
may garnish with Spinage, or Turnips, &c.
Obs. — To Pot Ham (No. 509), is a much more use-
ful and economical way of disposing of the remains
of the joint, than makino; Essence of it, (No. 352).
To make Soup of the Liquor it is boiled in, see N.B. to
(No. 555).
Tongue. — (No. 15.)
A Tongue is so hard, whether prepared by drying
or pickling, that it requires much more cooking than a
Ham: — nothing, of its weight, takes so long to dress
it properly.
A tongue that has been salted and dried, should be
put to soak {if it is Old and very hard, 24 hours before
it is wanted,) in plenty of water; — a Green one fresh
from the pickle requires soaking only a few hours;
— put your Tongue into plenty of Cold water, let
it be an hour gradually warming, and give it from
three and a half, to four hours very slow sinunering,
according to the size, &c.
Obs. — When you choose a Tongue, endeavour to
learn hov7 long it has been dried or pickled, — pick
out the plumpest, and that which has the smoothest
skin, which denotes its being young, and of course it is
more likely to be tender.
The Roots, &c. make an excellent Relish potted,
like (No. 509.) — or Pease Soup (No. 218.)
N. B. Our correspondent, who wished us in this
158 BOILING.
Edition to give a receipt to Roast a Tongue, will find
an answer in (No. 82.)
Turkeys J Fowls, SjC. — (Xo. 16),
Are all Boiled exactly in the same manner, only
allowing time, according to their size. For the 67m//-
ing, &c. (Nos. 374, 375, and 377,) some of it made
into Balls, and boiled or tried, make a nice garnish, and
are handy to help — and you can then reserve some of
the inside stuffing to eat with the Cold fowl, or enrich
the Hash, (Nos. 530 and 533.)
A Chicken will take about 20 minutes.
A Fowl 40
A fine large Five-toed Fowl or Capon about an
hour.
A small Turkey, an hour and a half.
A large one two hours or more.
Chickens or Fowls should be killed at least one or
two days before they are to be dressed. Turkeys (espe-
cially large ones) should not be dressed till they have
been killed three or four days at least—/// Cu/d ITcat/ier
six or eight, — or they will neither be White, nor
Tender*.
Turkeys, and hrge Fowls, should have the strings
or sinews of the thighs drawn out.
Truss them tcith the legs outuarJs — ihej/ are much
€a$ier caned.
Fouls for Boiling should be chosen as white as pos-
sible : if their complexion is not so fair as you wish —
veil them in (No. 2 of No. 361); those which have
black legs should be roasted. The best use of the
Liver is to make Sauce, (No. 287.)
Poultry must be well washed in warm water — i/ienj
dirty from the singeing, &c. rub them with a little
• Baker in his Chronicle tells os the Turkey did not reach England lill
A. D. 15C4, about the 15th of Hcury the 8th : ht says,
" Jurkies, carps, hoppes, piccaiell, and beere.
Came into England all iu one year,"
BOILING. 159
white Soap — thoroughly rinse it off — then dredge
them well with flour.
Make a good and clear fire ; set on a clean pot,
with pure and clean water, enough to well cover the
Turkey, &c. ; the slower it boils, the whiter and plumper
it will be. — When there rises any scum, remove it ; the
common method (of some who are more nice than
wise) is to wrap them up in a cloth, to prevent the
scum attaching to them; which, if it does, by your
neglecting to skim the pot, there is no getting it ofF
afterwards, and the Poulterer is blamed for the fault
of the Cook.
If there be Water enough, and it is attentively
scummed, the Fowl will both look and eat much better
this way, than when it has been covered up in the
cleanest cloth; and the colour and flavour of your
Poultry will be preserved in the most delicate per-
fection,
Obs. — Turkey deserves to be accompanied by
Tongue, (No. 15), or Ham, (No. 14); if these are not
come-at-able, don't forget Pickled Pork, (No. J 1), or
Bacu?i and greens, (Nos. 83, 526, and 527), or Pork
Sausages, (No. 87), Parsley and Butter, (No. 261);
don't pour it over, but send it up in a boat; Liver,
(No. 287), Egg, (No. 267,) or Oyster sauce, (No. 278.)
To warm cold Turkey, &c. (No. 533), and following.
To Grill the Gizzard and Rump, see (No. 538). Save
a quart of the liquor the Turkey was boiled in — this,
with the bones and trimmings, &c. will make good
Broth for a Hash, &c.
Rabbits.— {^0. 17.)
Truss your Rabbits short, lay them in a Basin of
warm water for ten minutes, — then put them into
plenty of water, and boil them about half an hour;
if Large ones, three quarters ; if very Old, an hour :
smother them with plenty of White Onion sauce, (No.
160 BOILING.
298), mince the Liver, and lay it round the dish, or
make Liver sauce (No. 287), and send it up in a boat.
0/;.y. — Ask those you are going to make Liver sauce
for, if they hke pkiin Liver sauce, or I^iver and Pars-
ley, or Liver and Lemon sauce, see (Nos. 287 and
288.)
N. B. It will save much trouble to the Carver, if the
Rabbits be cut up in the Kitchen — into pieces fit to help
at table, and the Head divided — and one half laid at
each end — and slices of Lemon — and the Liver chop-
ped very finely, laid on the sides of the Dish.
Tripe*. — {1^0. 18.)
Take care to have j)cs/i Tripe, cleanse it well from
the fat, and cut it into pieces about two inches broad
and four long ; put it into a stewpan and cover it with
milk and water, and let it boil gently till it is tender.
If the I'ripe has been prepared as it usually is at the
Tripe shops, it will be enough in about an hour; (this
depends upon how long it has been previously boiled
at the Tripe shop); ifcntirclij ///?r//Ti-.vt7/ — it will require
two or three hours — this also depends much on the
Age and Quality of it.
Make some Omox sauci: in the same manner as
you do for Rabbits, (No. 298), or boil (slowly by them^
selves) some Spanish, or the whitest common Onions
you can get ; — peel them before you boil them ; when
they are tender, which a middling sized Onion will be
in about three quarters of an hour, drain them in a hair
sieve, take off the top skins till they look nice and
white, and put them with the '1 ripe into a tureen or
soup-dish, and take off the fat if any floats on the
surface.
Ohs. — Rashers of Bacon, (Nos. 526 and 527), or
• " IloMERE rapporte, que dans un regal inagiiifiqne prtparti poiir /IcIiiUe,
on seivit des tripes do bceuf, et que cela s'ttait toujours observe anx \Vevk%
DKs HLRU5," — (Jottrs Gas(roitomiqu€,p. 155.
BOILING. 161
Fried Sausages, (No. 87), are a very good accompani-
ment to boiled Tripe, Cow heels, (No. 198), or Calfs
feet, see Mr. Kelly's Sauce, (No. 311*'), or Parsley
and Butter, (No. 261), or Caper Sauce, (No. 274), with
a little Vinegar and Mustard added to them — or Salad
Mixture, (No. 372 or 453.)
CoivHeel. — {^o, l8*.)
This, in the hands of a skilful Cook — will furnish
several good ivleals — when boiled tender, see (No.
198), cut it into handsome pieces, Egg and Bread
crumb them, and Fry them a light brown — and lay
them round a dish, and put in the middle of it sliced
Onions fried, or the accompaniments ordered for Tripe.
The Liquor they were boiled in v.ill make Soups, (No.
229), (No. 240*), or (No. 555.)
N. B. We give no Receipts to boil Venison, Geese,
Ducks, Pheasants, Woodcocks, and Peacocks,
&c. — as our aim has been to make a useful Book — not
a Big one, see (No. 82.)
THE
COOK^S ORACLE.
ROASTING.
\.B. If the Time we have allowed for Roasting, appears rather longer
than what is stattd informer works, we can only saif, ive have written
from actual Ixptritnents, — and that the difference may be accounted for,
l>lt common Coo.ks generally being fond of too fierce aftre, putting things
too near to it.
Our calculations arc made for a Temperature of about 50 degrees of
Fahrenheit.
Slow Ko\ stint, is as advantageous as Slow Boiling, of which every
budv uiidtrstaiids thr imiinrt.tncc.
The IVuriiier the weather, and the staler killed the Meat is — the less
time it it ill require /.■ roust it.
Alt at that is very J at — rcijnires more time than we have stated.
B£KF is ill j'roper siasvn throughout the uhnlc year ; but as Butchers
generally calculate uj>on its benig a Smulay's Dinner, you can seldom
depend upon its being tei.dcr on any other day.
Sir-Loin of Beef. — (No. 19.)
The Noble Sir-Loin* of about fifteen pounds, (if much
thicker, the outside will be done too much before the
inside is enoug;h,) will require to be before the fire
about three and a half or four hours : take care to spit
• This Joint is said to owe its name to King Charles the Second, who
dining upon :i Loin of Beef, and being particularly pleased with it, asked the
name of the Joint; said for its merit it should be knighted, and henceforth
called Sir-Loin.
" Oui second Charles of fame facele.
On loin of Beef did dine;
l!e held his sword, pleas'd, o'er the meat.
Arise, thou lam'd Sir-Loin."
Ballad of the New Sir John Barleycorn,
The ballad of " The dates of Calais" calls it
'• Kenown'd 6ir-Loin, oft limes decreed
The theme of English Ballad;
On thee our kings oft deign to feed,
Unknown to Frenchman's palate;
Then how much doth thy taste exceed
Soup-meagre, frogs, and salad 1"
ROASTING. 163
it evenly, that it may not be heavier on one side than
the other; — put a little clean Dripping into the
dripping pan, (tie a sheet of paper over it to presei-ve
the Fat*,) baste it well as soon as it is put down, and
every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till
the last half hour ; then take off the paper, and make
some Gravy for it, (No. 326), stir the fire and make it
clear : to Brown and Froth it, sprinkle a little salt over
it, baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour ; let it
go a few minutes longer, till the froth rises, take it up,
put it on the dish, &c.
Garnish it with Hillocks of horseradish scraped as
Jine as -possible with a very sharp knife, see (Nos. 458
and 399*). A Yorkshire pudding, is an excellent
accompaniment, (No. 595), or (No. 554.)
Obs. — The Inside of the Sir-Loin must never be cutf
Hot, but reserved entire for the hash, or a mock
* " In the ^reizni fashion of fatting Cattle, it is more desirable to roast
a-vay the Fat, than to preserve it. If the honourable Societies of Agricul-
tarists at the time they c jusuited a learned Professor about the composition of
Manures, had consulted some competent authority, on the nature of Animal
substances, the Public might have escaped the over-grown corpulency of the
Animal flesh, vvhich every where fills the markets." — Domestic Manage-
ment, 12mo. 1813, p. 182.
" Game and other wild animals proper for food, are of very superior qua-
lities to the tame — from the total contrast of the circumstances attending them.
They have a free range of exercise in the open air, and choose their own food,
the good effects of which are very evident in a short delicate texture of flesh,
found only in them. Their juices and flavour are more pure, and their Fat,
when it is in any degree, as in Venison, and some other instances, differs as
much from that of our fatted Animals, as Silver and Gold from the grosser
metals. The superiority of Welch Mutton and Scotch Beef is owing
to a similar cause." — Ibid. p. 150.
If there is more Fat than you think will be eaten with the Meat, cut it off,
it will make an excellent Pudding, (No. 554); or clarify it, see (No. 84), and
use it for Frying : — for those who like their meat djne thoroughly, and use a
moderate fire for roasting, the Fat need not be covered with paper.
If your Beef is large, and your family small, — cut off the thin end and
salt it, — and cut out and dress the fillet, (i. e. commonly called the inside)
next day as Mock Hare, (No. 67*) : thus you get Three good hot Dinners.
See also the Appendix to Chapter 9 — on Made Dishes. For Sa.vce for Cold
Beef, see (No. 359), and Cucumber Vinegar, (No. 399), Horseradish Vinegar,
(Nos. 399* and 458.)
t " This joint is often spoilt for the next day's use, by an injudicious mode
of Carving. If you object to the outside, take the brown off, and help the
next— by the cutting it only on one side, yon preserve the Gravy in the meat,
aad the goodly appearance also — by cutting it, on the contrary, down the
164 ROASTING.
HARE (No. 67*.) (For the Receipt to Hash or Broil
Beef J, (No. 484), and (Nos. 486 and 487); and for
other ways of employing the remains of a joint of cold
Beef, see (Nos. 503,'4, 5, 6.)
Ribs of Beef. — (No. 20.)
The Three first Ribs, of fifteen or twenty pounds,
will take three hours, or three and a half: the fourth
AND FIFTH RiBs will take as long, managed in the
same way as the Sir- Loin. — Paper the Fat, and the
thin part, or it will be done too much, before the thick
part is done enough.
N.B. A Pig-tron placed before it on the bars of the
grate answers every purpose of keeping the thin part
from being too much done.
Obs. — Many persons prefer the Ribs to the Sir-
Loin.
Ribs of Beef boned and rolled. — (No. 2 1 .)
When you have kept two or three ribs of beef till
quite tender, — take out the bones, and skewer it as
round as possible, (like a fillet of veal): — before they
roll it, some Cooks Egg it, and sprinkle it with Veal
stuffing, (No. 374.) As the meat is more in a solid
mass, it will require more time at the fire than in the
preceding receipt ; — a piece of ten or twelve pounds
weight, will not be well and thoroughly roasted in less
than four and a half or five hours.
For the first half hour, it should not be less than 12
inches from the fire, that it may get gradually warm to
the centre : — the last half hour before it will be finished,
sprinkle a little salt over it; and if you wish to froth it,
flour it, &c.
middle of this joint, all the Gravy runs out, it becomes diy, and exhibiu a
most noseemly aspect when brought to table a second limt." — From Udk's
Cookery, \i\Q. 181B. )>. lOO.
ROASTING.
165
iifC/rrOA"*, — (No. 23.)
As Beef requires a large sound fire, Mutton must
have a brisk and sliarp one : — tf you wish to have
Mutton Under^ it should be hung as long as it will
keept •• and then good eight-tooth, i. e. four years old
Mutton, is as good eating as Venison, if it is accom-
panied by (Nos. 329 and 346 )
The Leg, Haunch, and Saddle will be the better for
being hung up in a cool airy place for four or five days
at least; in Temperate Vv-eatlier, a week; — in Cold
weather, ten days.
If you think your Mutton will not be tender enough
to do honour to the Spit, dress it as a " Gigot de sept
heures," see N.B. to (No. 1), and (No. 493.)
A Lfg — (No. 24)
Of eight pounds will take about Two hours : — let it
be well basted, and frothed in the same manner as
directed in (No. 19). To Hash Mutton, (No. 484).
To Broil it, (No. 487), &c.
• Dew Swift's Receipt to Roast Mutton.
To Geminiani's beautiful air — " Gently touch the warbling Lyre.
" Gently stir and blow the fire,
Lay the mutton dowu to roast,
Dress it quickly, I desire,
In the dripping put a toast.
That I hunger may remove —
IMutton is the meat 1 love.
" On the dresser see it lie;
Oh! the charming while and red;
Finer meat ne'er met the eye.
On the sweetest grass it fed:
Let the jack go swiftly round,
Let me have it nicely brown'd.
" On the table spread the cloth,
Let the knives be sharp and clean,
I'ickles get and salad both,
Let them each be fresh and green.
With small beer, good ale, and wine,
O ye gods! how 1 shall dine!"
t See the chapter of Advice to Cooks.
166 ROASTING.
A Chine or Saddle, — (No. 26),
(i. e. the two Loins,) of ten or eleven pounds, — two
hours and a half: it is the business of the Butcher to
take off the skin and skewer it on again — to defend the
meat from extreme heat, and preserve its succulence —
if this is neglected tie a sheet of paper over it: (baste
the strins^s you tie it on witli directly, or they will
burn:) about a quarter of an hour before you think it
will be done, take off the skin or paper, that it may get
a pale brown colour — and then baste it and flour it
lightly to froth it. We like (No. 346) for sauce.
N.B. Desire the Butcher to cut off the Flaps and
the tail and chump end, and trim away every part —
that has nut indif-pntaldc pretensions to be eaten. This
will reduce a Saddle of eleven pounds weight to about
six or seven pounds.
A Shou/der—i^o. 27)
Of seven pounds, — an hour and a half; put the spit
in close to the shank bone, and run it along the blade
bone.
N.B. The BLADE liONE is a favourite Luncheon or
Supper relish, scored, peppered and salted, and broiled,
or done in a Dutch Oven.
J Lain*— (So. 28)
Of Mutton, from an hour and a half, to an hour
and three quarters. — The most elegant uay of carving
this, is to cut it lengthwise, as you do a Saddle, read
(No. 26.)
N.B. Spit it on a skewer or lark spit, and tie that
on the common spit, and do not spoil the meat by
running the spit through the prime part of it.
• Common Cooks very scbdom bronti the ends of Necks and Lowj ; to
have this done nicely, let the fire be a few inches longer at each end, than
the joint that is roasting, and occasionally place the spit slanting, so that
each end may get sulficient fire; — otherwise, after the meat is done, you
iinut take it up, and put the ends before the fire.
ROASTING. 167
A Neck, — 0^0. 29),
About the same time as a Loin. It must be care-
fully jointed, or it is very difficult to carve. The Neck
and Breast are in small families commonly roasted
together — the Cook will then crack the bones across
the middle before they are put down to roast — if this
is. not done carefully, they are very troublesome to
carve.
Obs. — If there is more Fat than you think will be
eaten with the lean, cut it otF, and it will make an
excellent Suet Pudding, (No. o51), or (No. 554.)
N.B. The best way to Spit this, is to run iron
skewers across it — and put the spit between them.
A Breast, — (No. 30),
An hour and a quarter.
To Grill a Breast of Mutton, see Obs. to (No. 38).
A Haunch, — (No. 31),
(i. e. the leg and part of the loin) of Mutton; send
up two sauce boats with it ; one of rich drawn Mutton
Gravy, made without Spice or Herbs, (No. 347), and
the other of Sv/eet Sauce, (No. 346.) It generally
weighs about 15 pounds, and requires about three
hours and a half to roast it.
Mutton, Venison fashion. — (No. 32.)
Take a neck of good four or five year old south-
down wether Mutton cut long in the bones; let it
hang (in temperate weather) at least a week : two days
before you dress it, take allspice and black pepper
ground and pounded fine, a quarter of an ounce each,
rub them together, and then rub your mutton well with
this mixture twice a day : — when you dress it, wash
off the spice with warm water, and roast it in paste, as
we have ordered the haunch of venison : — No. 63.)
Obs. — Persevering and Ingenious Epicures, have
168 ROASTING.
invented many methods to give Mutton the flavour of
Venison — some say that Mutton prepared as above,
may be mistaken for Venison, — others that it is full as
good; — the refined palate of a Grand Gourmand, (in
spite of the Spice and Wine the meat has been fuddled
and rubbed with) will perhaps still protest against
•' JVeis/i Venison' — and indeed we do not understand
by w'hat conjuration Allspice and Claret can communi-
cate the Havour of Vtmson to Mutton — we confess
our fears that the flavour of Venison (especially of its
Fat) is inimitable — but believe you can procure Prime
eight-tooth Wether MuTiox, keep it the proper time,
and send it to tabic with the accompaniments (No. 346
and 347, Sec.) usually given to Venison. — A Rational
Epicure will eat it witli as much satisfaction, as he
would " feed on the King's Fallow Deer."
VEAL. — (No. 33.)
Veal requires particular care to roast it a nice
Brown. Let the fire be the same as for Beef; a sound
large fire for a large joint, and a brisker for a smaller :
— put it at some distance from the fire to soak tho-
roughly, and then draw it near to finish it brown.
When first laid down, it is to be basted; — baste
it again occasionally. When the Veal is on the dish
pour over it half a pint of melted Butter, (No. 256):
if you have a little brown Gravy by you, add that to
the Butter, see (No. 326.) JVith those joints uhich arc
not Stujf'ed, send up Forcemeat, (No. 374), or (No. 375),
in Balls, or rolled into Sausages as garnish to the dish^
or fried Pork Sausages, (No. 87), Bacon, (No. 13, or
526, or 527), and greens, are also always expected
with Veal.
Fillet of Veal, — (No. 34),
Of from twelve to sixteen pounds, will require from
four to five hours at a good fire; make some Stuffing
or Forcemeat, (No. 374 or 5), and put it in under the
ROASTING. 169
Hap, that there may be some left to eat cold, or to
season a Hash*: brown it, and pour good melted
butter (No. 266) over it, as directed in (No. 33.)
Garnish with thin slices of lemon, and Cakes or Balls
of Stuffing, or (No. 374), or (No. 375), or Duck
stuffing:, (^0- 61), or fried pork Sausages, see
(No. 87), Curry sauce, (No. 348), Bacon, (No. 13),
and Greens, &c.
N.B. Potted Veal, (No. 533.)
Obs. — A bit of the Brown outside is a favourite
with the Epicure in Roasts. — The Kidney cut out —
sliced and broiled, see (No. 538), is a high relish
which some Bons Viiants are fond of.
A Loin — (No. 35.)
Is the best part of the Calf, and will take about three
hours roasting. Paper the kidney fat, and the back :
some Cooks send it up on a Toast, which is eaten with
the Kidney and the fat of this part, which is more
delicate than any marrow, &c. If there is more of it
than you think will be eaten with the Veal — before
you roast it cut it out, it will make an excellent suet
pudding : — takt care to have j/oiir fire long enough to
brown the tn(h — same accompaniments as (No. 34.)
A Shoulder, — {^o. 36.)
From three hours to three hours and a half, — stuff it
with the forcemeat ordered for the fillet of veal, in the
underside, or Balls made of (No. 374.)
Neck, best end, — (No. 37.)
Will take two hours; — same accompaniments as
(No. 34.) The Scrag part is best made into a pye, or
broth.
• To Mince or IfASH Veal, see (No. 511, or 511*), and to make
IlAGOUT of cold Veal, (No. 5I2.)
I
170 BOASTING.
Breast, — (iio, 38.)
From an hour and a half to two hours. Let the
caul remain till it is almost done, then take it off', to
brown it ; baste, flour, and froth it.
Ohs. — This makes a savoury relish for a Luncheon
or Supper: — if, when boiled enough, you put it in a
cloth between two pewter dishes with a weight on the
upper one — and let it remain so till cold, then pare
and trim it — egg and crumb it, and broil, or warm it
in a Dutch oven; serve with it Capers, (No. 274), or
Wow Wow sauce, (No. 3*28.) Breast of Mutton dressed
the same tcay.
Veal Sneet bread, — (^0. 39.)
Trim a fine Sweetbread, (it cannot be too fresh,)
parboil it for five minutes, and throw it into a basin of
cold water. Roast it plain — or
Beat up the yolk of an Egg, and prepare some fine
Bread crumbs. When the Sweetbread is cold, dry it
thoroughly in a cloth, run a lark spit or a skewer
through it, and tie it on the ordinary spit : e^^ it with
a paste brush, powder it well with bread crumbs, —
and roast it.
For Sauce, fried Bread Crumbs round it, and melted
butter with a little Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), and
Lemon Juice (Nos. 307, or 354, or 356), or serve them
on buttered Toast garnished with Egg Sauce (No. 267),
or with Gravy (No. 329.)
Obs. — Instead of spitting them, you may put them
into a tin Dutch oven, or Fry them, (Nos. 88, or 89,
or 513.)
L.-^MB — (No. 40.)
Is a delicate, and commonly considered Tender meat
— but those who talk of tender Lamb — while they are
thinking of the Age of the Animal, — forget, that even a
Clikken must be kept a proper time after it has been
killed, or it will be tough picking.
ROASTING. 171
Woeful experience has warned us to beware of
accepting an invitation to Dinner on Easter Sunday, —
and unless commanded by a thorough bred Gourmand
— our Incisores, Molares, and Principal Viscera, have
protested against the Imprudence of encountering
Young tough stringy Mutton — under the misnomen of
Grass Lamb.
To the usual accompaniments of Roasted Meat, Green
Mint Sauce (No. 303), a Salad (Nos. 372 and 138*),
is commonly added ; and some Cooks, about five
minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a little minced
Parsley, or (No. 318.)
Grass Lamb is in season from Easter to Michael-
mas.
House Lamb from Christmas to Lady-Day.
S/ia7}i-Lamh, see Obs. to following Receipt.
N.B. When green mint cannot be got. Mint Vinegar
(No. 398), is an acceptable substitute for it.
Hind-Quarter, — (No. 41.)
Of eight pounds, will take from an Hour and three
quarters to two Hours: — baste and froth it in the
same way as directed in (No. 19.)
Obs. — A Quarter of a Porkliiig is sometimes
skinned, cut, and dressed Lamb-fashion, and sent up
as a substitute for it. The Leg and the Loin of Lamb
should always be roasted together, — the former being
very lean — the latter very fat, — and the Gravy is
better preserved.
Fore- Quarter, — (No. 42.)
Of ten pounds, — about two hours.
N.B. It is a pretty general custom, when you take
off the Shoulder from the Ribs, to squeeze a Seville
orange over them, and sprinkle them with a little
Pepper and Salt.
Obs. — This may as well be done by the Cook before
it comes to Table.
I 2
172 ROASTING.
Ifo-, — (No. 43.)
Of five pounds, — from an iiour to an hour and a
half.
S/ioul(Icr,— {No.4A.)
With a quick fire, an liour.
See Ol>s. to (No. 27.)
Ribs, — (No. 45.)
About an hour to an hour and a quarter — joint it
nicely — crack the ribs across, and bend them up to
make it easy to carve.
Loin, — (No. 46.)
All hour and a quarter.
AVd, — (No. 47.)
An hour.
r.reait, — (So.4S.)
lliree quarters of an hour.
PO/{A'. — (No. 49.)
The prime season for Pork, is from Michaelmas to
March.
Take jjarticiilar care it he DONi: enough: other
meats underdone are unpleasant, but Pork is abso-
lutely umalahle, — the very sight of it is enough to
appal the keenest Appetite.
For Saucks, (No. 300), (No. 304), and (No. 342.)
Obs. — Pease pudding (No. 555), is as good an
accompaniment to roasted, as it is to boiled pork; and
most palates are pleased with the Savoury Powder set
down in (No. 51), or bread crumbs mixed with Sage
and Onion minced very fine, or ZEST (No. 255)
sprinkled over it.
N.B. *' The western Pigs, from Berks, Oxford, and
Bucks, possess a decided superiority over the eastern,
BOASTING. 173
of Essex, Sussex, and Norfolk; not to forget another
qualification of the former, at which some readers may
smile, — a thickness of the skin, whence the Crackling
of the roasted Pork is a fine gelatinous substance,
which may be easily masticated, whilst the crackling
of the thin skinned breeds, is roasted into good block
Tin, the reduction of which would almost require
Teeth of Iron." — MouBRAY on Poultjy, 1816, p. 242.
There is a second Edition of this book, which seems to
be the best work on the subject we have seen.
A Leg, — (No. 50.)
Of eight pounds, will require about three hours: score
the skin across in narrow stripes, (some score it in
diamonds) about a quarter of an inch apart; — stuff
the knuckle with sage and onion minced fine, and a
little grated bread seasoned with pepper, salt, and the
yolk of an Egg; see Duck Stuffing (No. 61.)
Rub a little sweet Oil on the skin with a paste
brush, or a goose feather: this makes the Crackling
crisper and browner than basting it with dripping;
and it will be a better colour than all the art of
Cookery can make it in any other way. And this is
the best way of preventing the skin from blistering —
which is principally occasioned by its being put too
near the fire.
Leg of Pork roasted ivithoiit the Skin, commonly called
Mock Goose*. — (No. 51.)
Parboil it, take off the skin, and then put it down
to roast; baste it with butter, and make a Savovry
Poxoder of finely minced, or dried and powdered Sage,
ground black pepper, salt, and some bread crumbs,
rubbed together through a cullender : you may add to
* Priscllla Uaslehurst, in her Housekeeper's Instructor, 8vo. SlielTieJd,
18i6, page 19, gives us a receipt " to Goosify a Shoulder of Lamb." ". Le
«;rand Cuisuiier," who gave nic the Receipt to dress Turtle (No. 250), informs
nie, that " t) Lnmbify" the leg of a Poi kling is a favourite MetamorplioMs in
the French kitchen, when House Lamb is very dear.
174 ROASTING.
this a little very finely minced Onion ; sprinkle it witli
this when it is almost roasted; put half a pint of
made gravy into the dish, and Goose stuffing
(No. 378) under the knuckle skin, or garnish the Dish
■with Balls of it fried or boiled.
The Grishiu, — (No. 52.)
Of seven or eio:ht pounds, may be dressed in the same
manner: — it will take an hour and a half roasting.
A Bacon Spare-Rib — (No. 53.)
Usually weighs about eight or nine pounds, and will
take from two to three hours to roast it thoroughly, —
not exactly according to its weight, — but the thickness
of the meat upon it, which varies very much : — lay
the thick end nearest to the Fire.
A proper rald Spare-Rib of eight pounds weight,
(so called because almost all the Meat is pared off,)
with a steady tire, will be done in an hour and a
quarter: — there is so little meat on a bald Spare-Rib,
that if you have a large fierce tire, it will be burnt
before it is warm through; joint it nicely, and crack
the Ribs across as yon do Ribs of Lamb.
When you put it down to roast, dust on some flour,
and baste it with a little butter; dry a dozen Sage
leaves, and rub them through a hair sieve, and put
them into the top of a pepper box, and about a
quarter of an hour before the meat is done, baste it
with butter, dust the pulverized Sage, or ihesavowy
jjowder in (No. 51), or sprinkle with Duck Stuffing,
(No. 61.)
Obs, —Make it a general rule, never to pour gravy
over any thing that is roasted; by so doing, the
dredging, &c. is washed off, and it eats insipid.
Some people carve a Spart-rib by cutting out in
slices the thick part at the bottom of the bones : when
this meat is cut away, the bones may be easily sepa-
rated, and are esteemed very sweet picking.
ROASTING. 175
Apple sauce (No. 304), Mashed Potatoes (No. 106),
and good Mustard (No. 370), are indispensable.
Loin, — (No. 54.)
Of five pounds, must be kept at a good distance
from the fire on account of the Cracklings and will
take about two hours — if very fat, half an hour longer.
Stuff it with Duck Stuffing (No. 378.) Score the
skin in stripes, about a quarter of an inch apart, and
rub it with Salad Oil, as directed in (No. 50.) You
may sprinkle over it, some of the Savour]/ poxvder
recommended for the Mock Goose, (No. 51.)
A Chine, — (^o. 55.)
If parted down the back-bone, so as to have but one
side, — a good fire will roast it in two hours; if not
parted, three hours.
N.B. Chines are generally salted and boiled.
A Slicking Pig* — (No. 56.)
Is in prime order for the spit, when about three
weeks old.
It loses part of its goodness every hour after it is
killed ; — if not quite fresh, no art can make the
Crackling crisp.
To be in perfection, it should be killed in the morning,
to be eaten at dinner ; — it requires very careful roasting.
— A sucking Pig, like a young Child, must not be left
for an instant.
The ends, must have much more fire than the
middle; — for this purpose, is contrived an Iron to
hang before the middle part, called a Pig iron. If you
have not this, use a common flat Iron, or keep the fire
fiercest, at the two ends.
For the Stuffing, take of the crumb of a stale loaf
about five ounces ; rub it through a cullender ; mince
♦ Mons. Grimod designates this '' Animal modeste,ennemidufaste, et
le Rot des Animaux immondes."
176 ROASTING.
fine a handful of sap:e, {i. c. about two ounces,) ami a
large onion, (about an ounce and a half*); mix these
together with an cgtc:, some pepper and salt, and a bit
of butter as big as an egg; fill the belly of the pig
with this, and sew it up; lay it to the fire, and baste
it with Salad Oil till it is quite done; — do not leave it
a moment; it requires the most vigilant attendance.
Roast it at a clear brisk fire, at some distance. To
gain the praise of Epicurean Pig-Eaters, the Cuack-
LiNG must be nictlj/ crisped and delicately Ifgfith/
browned, without being either blistered or burnt.
A small three-weeks old Pig will be enough f in
about an hour and a half.
Before you take it from the Fire, cut off the head,
and part that and the body down the middle ; chop
the Brains very fine with some boiled Sage leaves,
and mix them with good Veal gravy, made as directed
in (No. 192), or Beef Gravy, (No .".29), or what runs
from the Pig when you cut its head off. Send up a
tureenful of Gravy, (No. .329), besides. — Currant Sauce
is still a favourite with some of the Old School.
Lay your Pig back to back in the dish, with one half
of the head on each side, and the Ears, one at each
end, which you must take care to make nice and crisps
or you will get scolded, as the good man was, who
bought his wife a pig with only one ear.
AVhen you cut oft" the Pettitoes, leave the skin long
round the ends of the legs When you first lay the
Pig before the fire, rub it all over with Fresh Butter or
Salad Oil, ten minutes after, and the skin cooks dry —
dredge it well with flour all over — let it remain on an
hour — then rub it off with a soft cloth.
• Some dellcatety sensitive r.dates dtsire the Cook to farboil the Sage
;>n(l Onions, (before tliey are cut,) to soften and take off tlie rawness of their
t1:tvonr ; the older and drier the Onion, the stronger wiU be its flavour; and
ilie learned Etylvn orders these to be edulcorated, \>y nenlic niaccraiiou.
t All ancient culinary Sa^e says - " When you see a Pig's l^yes drop out —
you may be satisfied — he has had enough of the lire!" J his i« no cri-
terion that the body of the Pig is done enough — but arises merely from
the briskness of the Fire before the head of it.
ROASTING. 177
X.B. A Pig is a very troublesome subject to Roast,
— most persons have them Baked ; send a quarter of
a pound of butter, and beg the baker to baste it well.
Turkey, Turkey Poults, and other Poultry,
(No. 57.)
A Fowl, and a Turkey, require the same manage-
ment at the fire, only the latter will take longer time.
Many a Christmas dinner has been spoiled, by the
Tiirkey having been hung up in a cold larder, be-
coniing thoroughly frozen ; — Jack Frost has ruined the
reputation of many a Turkey Roaster : — therefore, in
itTj/ cold JVeather, remember the Note in the 5Lh page
of ti^ie 2d chapter of the PcUdimexts of Cookery.
Let them be carefully picked, &c. and break the
breastbone (to make them look plump), twist up a
sheet of clean writing- paper, light it, and thoroughly
singe the Turkey all over, turning it about over the
flange.
Turkeys, Fowls, and Capons, have a much better
appearance, if, instead of trussing them with the Legs
close together, and the feet cut off, the Legs are
extended on each side of the bird, and the toes only
cut off, with a skewer through each foot, to keep them
at a proper distance.
Be careful, when you draw it, to preserve the Liver,
and not to break the Gall-bag, — as no washing will
take off the bitter taste it gives, where it once touches.
Prepare a nice clear brisk fire for it.
Make Stuffixg according to (No. 374, or 376), — ■
stuff it under the breast, vrhere the craw was taken
out, and make some into Balls — and boil or fry them,
and lay them round the dish ; — they are handy to
help, and you can then reserve some of the inside
stuffing to eat with the cold Turkey — or to enrich a
Hash, (No. 533.)
Score the Gizzard — dip it into the Yolk of an Ego;
or melted butter — and sprinkle it with salt and a few
I 5
178
tlOASTtNG.
grains of Cayenne — put it under one Pinion, and the
Liver under the other, — cover the Liver with buttered
Paper, to prevent it from getting; liardened or burnt.
Wlicn you first put a Turkey down to roast, dredge
it with Flour, then put about an ounce of Butter
into a basting ladle, and as it melts baste the bird
there wi til.
Keep it at a distance from the fire for the first half
hour, tliat it may warm gradually, then put it nearer,
and when it is plumped up, and the steam draws in
towanl the fire, it is nearly enough, then dredge it
lightly with flour, and put a bit of butter into your
bastini:^ ladle, and as it melts, baste the turkey with it;
this will raise a A/ur Fruf/i than can be produced by
using the fat out of the pan.
.7 itTj/ lar^e Turkey, will require about three hours,
to roast it thoroughly; a middling sized one, of eight
or ten pounds (which is far nicer eating than the very
large one), about two hours ; a Small one may be done
in an hour and a half. Tirkey Poults are of variotis
sizes, and will take about an hour and a half — they
should be trussed with their legs twisted tinder like a
Duck, and the head under the wing like a Pheasant.
Fried Pouk Sausages (Xo. 87) are a very savoury,
and favourite accompaniment to either roasted, or
boiled Poultry. A Turkey, thus garnished, is called
•* an Alderman in Chains."
Sausage meat is sometimes used as stuffing, instead
of the ordinary Forcemeat (No. 376), &c.
Mem. If you uish a Turkey, especially a very large
one, to be tender, never dress it till at least four or five
days (in cold weather, eight or ten) after it has been
killed. *' No man who understands good living, will
say on such a day I will eat that Turkey— but will
hang it up by four of the large tail feathers, and when,
on paying his morning visit to the Larder, he finds it
lying upon a cloth, prepared to receive it when it falls,
that day let it be cooked."
ROASTING. 179
Hen Turkeys, are preferable to Cocks for whiteness
and tenderness, and the small fleshy ones with black
legs, are most esteemed.
Send up with them, Oyster (No. 278), Egg (No.
267;, Bread (No. 221), and plenty of Gravy Sauce,
(No. 329.) To HASH Turkey, (No. 533.)
Mem. Some Epicures are very fond of the Gizzard
and Rump peppered and salted, and broiled — see
(No. 538), " how to dress a Devil with veritable Sauce
d'Enferir
Capons or Fowls — (No. 58.)
Must be killed a couple of days in moderate, and
more in cold weather, before they are dressed, or they
will eat tough : — a good criterion of the ripeness of
Poultry for the spit, is the ease with v/hich you can
then pull out the feathers — and when a Fowl is plucked,
leave a few to help you to ascertain this.
They are managed exactly in the same manner, and
sent up with the same sauces as a Turkey, only they
require proportionably less time at the fire : — •
A FULL-GROWN FivE-TOED FowL, about an hour
and a quarter ;
A MODERATE SIZED onc, an hour; — and
A Chicken from thirty to forty minutes.
Here also. Pork Sausages fried (No. 87), are in general
a favourite accompaniment, or Turkey Stuffing; see
Forcemeats, (Nos. 374, 5, 6, and 7) ; put in plenty of
it, so as to plump out the fowl, which must be tied
closely (both at the neck and rump), to keep in the
stuffing.
Some cooks put the Liver of the Fowl into this force-
meat, and others rub it up with flour and butter, to
thicken, and give flavour to the Gravy; see (No. 287.)
When the Bird is stufFed and trussed, score the
Gizzard nicely — dip it into melted butter, — let it drain,
and then season it with Cayenne and Salt — put it
under one pinion, and the Liver under the other — to
180 ROASTING.
prevent it getting hcirdcncd or scorched, cover it with
double paper buttered.
Take care that your R'lastrd poultry be well brouncd ;
it is as indispensable, that roasCcd \to\\\i\'s should have
a rich Bro:r/i complexion, as hoilc</ poultry should have
a delicate Jf'/iitc one.
Ol)s. " 77r Jrf of ftttlcning PouUn/ for the London
Market, is a considerable branch of rural Economy in
some convenient situatio!is — and consists in supplying-
them with plenty of healthy food, and confining them —
and Ducks and Geese must be prevented from going
into water, which prevents them from becoming fat —
and they aUo thereby acquire a rancid fishy taste.- -
They are put into a dark place, and erammcd with a
paste made of Barley Meal, mutton suet, and some
treacle or coarse Sugar mixed with milk, and are found
to be completely ripe in a fortnight. If kept longer,
the fever that is induced by this continued state of
repletion, renders them red and unsaleable, and ivG-
(jucntlv kills them."— But Exercise is as indispensable
to health of Poultry — as other creatures, — without
it, the Fat will be all accumulated in the cellular mem-
brane, instead of being dispersed through its system. —
Sec MoiBRAY, on Breeding and Fattening Douicstie
Pou/fri/, I'2mo. 1819.
Fowls which are fattened artificially, are by some
Epicures preferred to those called Barn Door Fowls —
whom we have heard say, that they should as soon think
of ordering a Barn-Door Jor Dinner — as a Barn-Door
Fowl.
'1 he AgQ of Poultry, makes all the difference: —
nothing is tenderer than a young Chicken, — few things
are tougher than an old Cock or Hen, which is only fit
to make Broth. The meridian of perfection of I'oultry,
is just before they have come to their full growth —
before they have begun to harden.
For Sauces (No. 305), or Liver and Parsley, (No.
287), and those ordered in the last receipt. To hash
it, (No. 533.)
ROASTING
181
Goose. — (No. .59.)
When a Goose is well picked, singed, and cleaned,
make the Stuffing with about two ounces of Onion*,
^nd half as much Green Sage, chop them very fine,
adding four ounces, i. e. about a large breakfast-cup-
ful of stale Bread crimibs, and a very little Pepper
and Salt, (to this some Cooks add half the Liverf,
parboiling it first,) the yolk of an e^g or two, and
incorporating the whole well together, stuff the Goose ;
do not quite fill it, but leave a little room for the
stuffing to swell. Spit it, tie it on the spit «t both
ends, to prevent its swinging round, and to keep the
stuffing from coming out. From an hour and a half
to two hours will roast a fine full-L;rown Goose.
• If you think the flavour of raw Onions too strong, cut tliem in slices, and
lay tliem in cold water tor a couple of hours, or add as much Apple or Potatoe
as you l?ave of onion.
t Although the whole i> rather too luscious for the lingual nerves of the
good folks of Great Britain, the Liveis of Poultry are considered a very
high relish by our Continental neighbours; and the following directions how-
to procure them in perfection, we copy from the Recipe of " tin Fieil
Amateur dc Bonne Che re.
" The Liver of a Duck, or a Goose, who has submitted to the rules and
orders that men of taste have invented for the amusement of his sebaceous
glands, is a superlative exqiusite to the palate of a Parisian Epicure — but,
alas ! the poor goose, to produce this darling dainty, must endure sad torments,
lie must be crammed with meat, deprived of drink, and kept constantly
before a hot fire — a miserable itiartyrdom indeed — and would be truly
intolerable, if his reflexions, on the consequences of his sufferings, did not
afford him some consolation — but the gloriors prospect of the delightful
growth of his liver, givis him courage and support; and when he thinks, how
speedily it will become almost as big as his Body — how high it will rank on
the list of double relishes — and with what ecstacies it will be eaten hy the
fanciers " aes Foies gras," he submits to his destiny without a sigh. — Ihe
famous Strasbourg Fyes are made with Livers thus prepared, and sell for
an enormous price."
However incredible this ordonnance for the obesitation of a Goose's Liver
may appear at first sight — will it not seem equally so to after ages, that in
this enlightened counuy, in 1821, we encouraged a Folly as much greater —
as its operation was more universal ? — Will it be believed, that it was then
considered the ccwie of perfection in Beef and Mutton, that it should be so
«>t/cr-fattened, that a poor man, to obtain one pound of Meat that he could
eat, — must purchase another which he could not, unless converted into a
Suet Pudding — moreover, that the highest Premiums were annually awarded
to those who produced Sheep and Oxen in the most extreme state of
morbid Obeiity ! ! !
" expensive plans
For deluging of Dripping pans."
182 ROASTING.
Send up Graw, and Apple sauce with it, see
(No3. 300, 304, 329, and 341.) To hash it, see
(No. 530.)
For another Stuffing; for Geese, see (No. 378.)
Ohs. " Croosc-ferdin(r\n the vicinity of the metropolis
is so larp;c a concern, that one person annually feeds
for market upwards of oOOO." " A Goose on a farm
in Scotland two years since, of the clearly ascertained
ap:c of S<) years, healthy and vigorous, was killed by a
Sow while siitino; over her Kj^s^s ; it was supposed she
might have lived many years, and her fecundity ap-
peared to be permanent. Other Geese have been
proved to rtach the age of 70 years." — MoiniiAY on
Poultry, p. 40.
It appears in Dr. Stark's Experiments on Diet,
p. 110, that "when he fed upon Roasted Goosii —
he was more vi<5orous both in Body and Mind, than
with any other diet."
The Goose at Michatlnms, is as famous, in the mouths
of the million, as the Minced Pie ^i Christmas ; but,
for those who eat with delicacy, it is by that time too
full n^rown. The true ])eriod, when the Goose is in its
hio^hr^t j)orfcction, is when it has just acquired its full
growth, and not begun to harden. If the Midsummer
goose is insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank; the
fine time, is between both ; from the first week in
Julv, to the second in September. See Mock Goose,
(No. 51.)
Green Goose. — (No. 60.)
Geese are called Green, till they are about four
months old.
The only difference between roasting these, and a
full grown Goose, consists in seasoning it with pepper
and salt instead of sage and onion, and roasting it for
forty or fifty minutes only.
Obs. This is one of the least desirable of those
insipid premature productions — which are esteemed
dainties.
ROASTING. 183
Duck.-— {No. 61.)
Mind your duck is well cleaned, and wiped out with
a clean cloth ; for the Stuffing take an ounce of
Onion, and half an ounce of green Sage, chop them
very fine, and mix them with two ounces, i. e. about a
breakfast- cupful of Bread crumbs, a very little black
pepper and salt, (some obtuse palates will require
warming with a little Cayenne, No. 404), and the yolk
of an ego: to bind it; mix these thoroughly together,
and put into the Duck. For another Stuffing, see
(No. 378.) From half to three quarters of an hour,
will be enough to roast it, according to the size : con-
trive to have the Feet delicately crisp, as some people are
very fond of them: — to do this nicely, you must have
a sharp fire. For Sauce, Green Pease (No. 134),
Bonne Boucht (No. 341), Gravy Sauce (No. 329), and
Sage and Onion Sauce (No. 300.)
To Hash or Stew Ducks, see (No. 530.)
N. B. If you think the raw Onion will make too
strong an impression upon your Palate, parboil it. —
Read Obs. to (No. 59.)
When Ducks begin to grow old, to ensure their
being tender — in moderate weather, kill them a few
days — before you dress them.
(No. 6-2.)
For the following observations, I am indebted to
Major Hawker's entertaining and informing work,
" Instructions for Young .S'/7or^>swe/t," London, 1816.
*' Old Pheasants may be distinguished by the length
and sharpness of their spurs, which in the younger ones
are short and blunt.
" Old Partridges are known during the early part of
the season, by their legs being of a pale blue, instead
of a yellowish brown : so that when a Londoner re-
ceives his brace of blue-legged birds in September, he
should immediately snap their legs and draw out the
sinews, by means of pulling off the feet, instead of
184 ROASTING.
leaving: them to torment him, like so many strings,
when he would be wishing to enjoy his repast. This
remedy to make the legs tender, removes the objection
to old birds, provided the weather will admit of tlieir
being sufficiently kept; and indeed they are tlien often
preferable, from havins^ a higher flavour.
" If Birds are oicr-krpf, their legs will be dry, their
eyes much sunk, and the vent will become soft, and
somewhat discoloured. The first place to ascertain if
they are beginning to be high, is the inside of their
bills, where it is not amiss to put some hether straw,
or spice, if you want to keep them for anv length of
time. Birds that have falkn into the water, or have
not had time to get cold, sliould not be packed like
others, but sent openly, and dressed as soon as
possil)le."
Sportsmen are often heartily ab\iscd by their ac-
quaintance, (1 cannot yet bring myself to hackney the
word friends quite so fluently a.^ I ought to do;, for
sending them ' tough and good-for nothing game,'
while probably the blame should, in many instances,
rest with themselves, or their })udding-headeu cook,
who, may be, dresses an old pheasant or hare the verv
day after it was killed! or perhaps, while engrossed
in a story or argument, leaves it to roast away, till
there remains neither juice nor ftuvour. /ill game
should be kept till properly tender. The following sauce
for v.'ild fowl has l^een preferred to about fifty others ;
and, at one time, was not to be o-ct v.ithout tlie fee of
a guinea: —
Recipe Jur Sauce tu Jlild t\
Oli'ld.
Fori \\ irie, or Claret 1 glass.
Sauce a la Russe*, (the older the belter) 1 t;tblespcoiifui.
C'-aisop 1 ditto.
Leuiiai Jnice 1 ditto.
J.emonlecl 1 ^lice.
!:halot, (a large) 1 .sliced.
Cayenne Teiiper, (xhe darkest j, i;ot thai like } „_.;„.
brick dust 5 ^
:viace 1 or 2 blade?.
• Sold by Avelinj: and Hi!', corner of Albemarle Street, liccadilly, — and
a very good sauce it is.
ROASTING. 185
To be scalded, strained, and added to the mere
gravy which comes from the bird in roasting. To com-
plete this, the fowl should be cut up in a silver dish
vv'hich has a lamp under it, v/hile the sauce is simmer-
ing with it.
Haunch of Venison. — (J<>o. 63.)
To preserve the Fat, make a paste of flour and
water, as much as. will cover the haunch, wipe it vv^ith a
dry cloth in every part, rub a large sheet of paper all
over with butter, and cover the Venison vvith it, then
roll out the paste about three quarters of an inch thick,
lay this all over the fat side, and cover it well, with
three or four sheets of strong white paper, and tie it
securely on with packthread ; have a strong close fire,
and baste your venison as soon as you lay it down to
roast, (to prevent the paper and string from burning) ;
it must be well basted all the time.
A Buck Haunch generally weighs from 20 to 25
pounds, v;ill take about four hours and a half roasting,
in warm, and longer in CoW weather, — a Haunch of from
12 to 18 pounds v/ill be done in about three or three
and a half. A quarter of an hour before it is done,
the string must be cut, and the paste carefully taken
off; now baste it with butter, dredge it lightly with
flour, and when the froth rises, and it has got a fine
light brown colour, garnish the knuckle-bone, with a
ruflfle of cut writing paper, and send it up, with good
stroDg(but unseasoned) Gravy (No. 347), in one boat, and
Currant-Jelly Sauce in the other, or Currant-Jelly in a
side plate (not melted) : see, for Sauces, (Nos. 344,
o, 6, and 7.) Mem. " The Alderman's Walk" is the
I favourite part.
1 Obs. Buck Venison is in greatest perfection from
: Midsummer to Michaelmas; and Doe, from November
to January.
Keck and Shoulder of Venison — (No. 64.)
Are to be managed in the same way as the haunch;
•186 ROASTING.
only they do not require the coat or paste, and will not
require so much time.
The best way to spit a neck, is to put three skewers
through, and put the spit between the skewers and the
bones.
A jPaiyn,— (No. 0)5)
Like a sucking; Pig, should be dressed, almost as
soon as killed. When very young, is trussed, stuffed,
and spitted the same way as a Hare. But they are
better eating when of the size of a House Lamb ; and
are then roasted in quarters ; the hind quarter is most
esteemed.
They must be put down to a very quick fire, and
either basted all the time they are roasting, or be
covered with sheets of fat bacon : when done, baste it
with butter, and dredge it with a little salt and flour,
till you make a nice froth on it.
N. B. We advise our friends to half roast a Fawn as
soon as they receive it — and then make a Hash of it
like (No. 528.)
Send up Venison sauce with it. See the preceding
Receipt, or (No. 344), &c.
A Ki,l.~(So. 65 \)
A young sucking Kid is very good eating; to have it
in prime condition, the Dam should be kept up, and
well fed, &c.
Roast it like a Fawn or Hare.
//are. — (No. 66.)
" Inter qiiadruiedes gloria prima lepus." — MARTiiL.
The first points of consideration are. How old is the
Hare? and how long has it been killed? When
young, it is easy of digestion, and very nourishing; —
when old, the contrary in every respect.
To ascertain the age, examine the first joint of
the fore foot ; you will find a small knob, if it is a
ROASTING. 187
Leveret, which disappears as it grows older; then
examine the ears ; if they tear easily, it will eat tender ;
if they are tough, so will be the Hare, which we
advise you to make into Soup, (No. 241), or stew ; or
JUG it, see (No. 523.)
When newly killed, the body is stiff; as it grows
stale, it becomes limp.
As soon as you receive^a Hare, take out the Liver,
parboil it, and keep it for the stuffing; some are very
fond of it : — do not use it, if it be not quite fresh and
good. Some mince it, and send it up as a garnish in
little hillocks round the dish. Wipe the hare quite
dry, rub the inside with pepper, and hang it up in a
dry cool place.
Paunch and skin* your Hare, wash it, and lay it in a
large pan of cold water four or five hours, changing
the water two or three times; lay it in a clean cloth,
and dry it well ; then truss it.
To make the Stuffing, see (No. 379): do not
make it too thin ; it should be of cohesive consistence;
if it is not sufficiently stiff, it is good for nothing: put
this into the belly, sew it up tight, cut the neck skin to
let the blood out, or it will never appear to be done
enough, spit it, and baste it with drippings t, (or the
juices of the Back will be dried up before the upper
joints of the Legs are half done,) till you think it
is nearly done, which a middling sized Hare v»'ill be in
about an hour and a quarter. When it is almost
roasted enough, put a little bit of butter into your
basting-ladle, and baste it with this, and flour it, and
froth it nicely.
Serve it with good Gravy, (No. 329), or (No. 347),
* This, in cuiiiiaiy lecliruc.ils, is called casing it— upon the sh ue principle
— that " eatiiii;, drinking, and sleeping," are termed rMn-naturulf.
t Mr«. Ciiarlotte Ma^on, in lier " Complete Sy.'.tem uf Cookery," page
2.53, says stic has " tried all the different things recommended to baste a hare
'.vith, and never fouiid any thin'^ so good as small beer f' others order milk;
Dripping we believe is belter than any thing.
Instead of washing, a " grand Culsinier" says, it is much b-tler to wipe
the Hare v. ith a thin and dry cioih, as so much washing, or indeed waihing
at all, takes away the flavour so much admired in Hares.
188 ROASTING.
and Currant-jelly. For another Stufftxg, see re-
ceipt (No. 379.) Some Cooks cut off the head and
divide it, and lay one lialf on each side the Hare.
Cold roast Hare will make excellent Sorr, (No. 241),
chopped to pieces, and stewed in three quarts of water
for a cou})le of hours : the Sti/ffing will be a very agree-
able substitute for Sweet herbs and seasoning. See
receipt for Harf. Soup (No. 241), Hashed Hauf
(No. 529), and Mock Ha he, next Receipt.
Mock 7A;rr. — (No. 66\)
Cut out the Fillet (?. e. the inside lean) of a Sirloin of
Beef; leaving: the Fat, to roast with the joint. Prepare
some nice stuffing, as directed for a hare, in (No. 66,
or 379); put this on the beef, and roll it up with tape,
put a skewer through it, and tic that on a spit.
Ohs. — If the Beef is of prime quality, — has been
ke^it till thoroughly tender,— and you serve with it the
accompaniments that usually attend roast hare, (No.
.329 — 344, &c.) the most fastidio\js palate will have
no reason to regret that the Game Season is over. To
make this into Hare Soup, see (No. 241.)
Rabbit. — {"So. 67.)
If your fire is clear and sharp, thirty minutes will
recast a young, and forty a full grown Rabbit.
When you lay it down, baste it with butter, and
dredge it lightly and carefully with flour, that you may
have it frothy, and of a fine light brown. While the
rabbit is roasting, boil its Liver* with some Parsley;
when tender, chop them together, and put half the
mixture into some melted butter, reserving the other
half for Garnish, divided into little hillocks. Cut ofi'
the head, and lay half on each side of the dish.
Obs. — A large, well grov/n, (but young) warren-
rabbit, kept some time after it has been killed, and
* Liver Sauce, Ko. 287 and C88.
ROASTING. 189
roasted with a stuffing in its belly, eats very like a
Hare, to the nature of which it approaches; — it is
nice nourishing food when young, but hard and
unwholesome when old. For Sauces, (Nos. 298, 287,
and 329.)
Pheasant -(^0. 68.)
Requires a smart fire, but not a fierce one. Thirty
minutes will roast a young bird ; and forty or fifty a
full grown Pheasant. Pick and draw it, cut a slit in
the back of the neck, and take out the craw, but don't
cut the head off; wipe the inside of the bird with a
clean cloth, twist the legs close to the body, leave the
feet on, but cut the toes off, don't turn the head under
the wing, but truss it like a fowl, — it is much easier to
carve : baste it, butter and froth it, and prepare sauc^e
for it, (Nos. 321 and 329): see the instructions in re-
ceipts to roast fowls and turkeys, (No. 57 and 58.)
Obs. — y/e believe that the rarity of this bird is its
best recommendation ; and the character given it by an
ingenious French author, is just as good as it deserves.
*' Its flesh is naturally tough, and owes all its tender-
ness and succulence to the long time it is kept, before
it is cooked ;" until it is " bien mortijUe," it is uneatable*.
Therefore, instead of'- sus per col," suspend it by one of
the long tail-feathers, and the Pheasant's falling from
it, is the criterion of its ripeness and readiness for the
spit.
Our President of the Committee of Taste, (who is
indefatigable in his endeavours to improve the Health,
• " They are oiily fit to be eaten wUeu the Blood runs from the Bill, which is
commonly about 6 or 7 days after they have been killed ; otherwise, it will have
no more savour '.han a common fowl.'' — Udt Cookery, 8vo. I8I9, page 2l6.
" Gastronomers, who have any sort of aversion to a peculiar taste in GanM;
properly kept, had better abstain from this bird,— since it is worse than a
common fowl, if not waited f. r till it acquires \hG fumet it ought to have.
Whole republics of Matrgois have often been found rioting under the wings of
Pheasarits; but being r«(/ica^/i/ dispersed, and the birds properly washed with
Vinegar, every tbiiig went right, and every guest, unconscious of the culinary
ablutions, enjoyed the excellent llaviur of the Phasian birds."
Tabella Cibaria, p. 55.
190 ROASTING.
as well as promote the Enjoyment of his fellow Students
in the School of Good Livinpr, and to whom the Epicure,
the Economist, and the Valetudinarian, are equally in-
debted for his careful revision of this work, and espe-
cially for iritroducing that salutary maxim into the
Kitchen, — that " the Salubrious is ever a superior
consideration to the Savoury," and indeed, that the
Rafiova! Epicure only relishes the latter, when entirely
subordinate to the former,) has sug:gested to us, that
the detachment of the Feather cannot take place until
the body of the Bird has advanced more than one
degree beyond the state of wholesome /laut-gout, and
become " frop mortijit'e ;" and that to enjoy this Game
in perfection, you must have a brace of birds killed the
same day; these are to be put in suspense, as above
directed, — and when one of them dropsj — the hour is
come that the spit should be introduced to his com-
panion : —
" Ultra citraque ncqiiit consistere rectum.'*
N.B. Sportsmen will find the following rule of
very great advantage to themselves and their Cooks,
— to order their gamekeepers (and observe the same
themselves) to cut off a Claw of each Bird they kill,
denoting the day of the week, thus
and the Cook should be particular in keeping each
week's killing separate. The claws should not be cut
off when the Bird is dressed for Table, as they serve to
show the Company when it was killed, and consequently
how long it has been kept.
Mock Fheamnt. — (No. 69.)
If you have only one pheasant, and wish for a com-
ROASTING. 191
panion for it, get a fine young fowl, of as near as may
be the sanie size as the bird to be matched, and make
game of it by trussing it like the pheasant, and dressing
it according to the above directions. Few persons
will discover the pheasant from the fowl, especially if
the latter has been kept four or five days.
The peculiar flavour of the Pheasant (like that of
other game) is principally acquired by long keeping.
Guinea and Pea Fowls — (No. 69*.)
Are dressed in the same way as Pheasants.
Partridges — (No. 70.)
Are cleaned and trussed in the same manner as a
pheasant, (but the ridiculous custom of tucking the legs
into each other, makes them very troublesome to carve);
the breast is so plump, it will require almost as much
roasting: send up with them rice sauce (No. 321*), or
bread sauce (No. 321), and good gravy (No. 329.)
*** ^f y^^ "^^^^ ^0 preserve them longer than you think
they will keep good undressed, half roast them, they will
keep two or three days longer, or 7nake a Pie of them.
Black Cock (No. 71), Moor Game (No. 72), and Grouse,
(No. 73,)
Are all to be dressed like partridges; the Black
Cock will take as much time as a pheasant, and Moor
game and Grouse, as the partridge. Send up with
them Currant-jelly and fried Bread crumbs (No. 320.)
mid Ducks. — (No. 74.)
For roasting a Wild Duck, you must have a clear
brisk fire, and a hot spit ; it must be browned upon the
outside, without being sodden within. To have it well
frothed, and full of gravy, is the nicety. Prepare the
fire, by stirring and raking it just before the bird is laid
down, and fifteen or twenty minutes will do it in the
fashionable way ; but if you like it a little more done,
192 . ROASTING.
allow it a few minutes longer: if it is too much, it will
lose its flavour.
For the sauce, see (No. 338) and (No. 62.)
Widgeons and Teal — (No. 75.)
Are dressed exactly as the wild duck ; only that less
time is requisite for a Widgeon, and still less for a Teal.
Woodcock. — (No. 76.)
Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the
Lovers of" huut-gout" considered a " Bonuc Bouc/ie ;"
truss their legs close to the Body, and run an Iron skewer
through each thigh close to the Body, and tie them
on a small bird spit, put them to roast at a clear fire;
cut as many slicis of bread as you have birds, toast or
fry them a delicate brown, and lay them in the dripping
pan under the birds, to catch the Trail*; baste them
with butter, and froth them with flour; lay the toast
on a hot dish, and the birds on the toast; pour some
good beef gravy into the dish, and send some up in a
boat, see Obs. to (\o. 5"29) : twenty or thirty minutes
will roast them. Garnish with slices of lemon.
Obs. — Some Epicures like this bird very much under-
done, and direct, that — a W^oodcock should be just
introduced to the Cook, for her to show it the Fire,
and then send it up to Tabic.
Snipes ~(^o. 11.)
Differ little from Woodcocks, unless in size ; they
• " Ibis bird has soinsinaated itself into the favour of refined gourma fids,
that I hey pay it the same iionoius as the grand Lama, making a Ragout of its
ILxcremeiits, and dcv.'urint; tliem ^\ilh ecstacy." — Ude Almanach dts
Gourmands, vol. i. page ^.
'Ihat Exercise prcdiiccs strength and firmnefs of fibre, is excellently ^vtll
exemplified in the Woodcock and the Partridge. — The former iHcs most —
the latter walks — the wing ot the Woodcock is always very tough, — of the
Partiiflge, very tender ; hence the old doggrel distich, —
" If the Partridge had but the IVoodcock's thigh,
" He'd be the best Kird that e'er doth Ily."
'l\\< Breait of all Birds is (he most jnicy and nutritious part.
ROASTING. 193
are to be dressed in the same way, but require about
five minutes less time to roast them.
For Sauce, see (No. 340.)
Pigeons. — (Ko. 78.)
When the pigeons are ready for roasting, if you
are desired to stuff them, chop some green parsley
very fine, the liver, and a bit of butter together,
with a little pepper and salt, or with the stuffing or-
dered for a fillet of veal (No. 374), or (No. 375), and
fill the belly of each bird with it. They will be enough
in about twenty or thirty minutes : send up Parsley and
butter (No. 261), in the dish under them, and some in
a boat, and garnish with crisp parsley, (No. 318),
or Fried Bread Crumbs, (No. 320), or Bread Sauce,
(No. 321), or Gravy, (No. 329.)
Obs. — When Pigeons are fresh, they have their full
relish ; but it goes entirely off with a very little keeping ;
nor is it any way so v.'ell preserved, as by Roasting
them, — when they are put into a Pie, they are gene-
rally baked to rags, and taste more of pepper and salt
than any thing else.
A little melted butter may be put into the dish with
them, and the gravy that runs from them will mix v/ith
it into fine sauce. Pigeons are in the greatest perfection
from Midsummer to Michaelmas, there is then the most
plentiful and best food for them; and their finest
growth, is just when they are full feathered. When
they are in the pen-feathers, they are flabby; when
they are full grown, and have flown some time, they
are tough. Game and Foultry are best when they hare just
done growing, i. e. as soon as Nature has perfected her
work.
This was the secret ot Solomon, the famous Pigeon-
feeder of Turnham Green, who is celebrated by the poet
Gay, when he says,
" That Turnham Green, which dainty pigeons fed.
But feeds no more, for Solomon is dead."
194 ROASTING.
Larks, and other small Birds. — (No. 80.)
These delicate little birds are in high season in
Xuiemher. When they are picked, gutted, and cleaned,
truss them ; brush them with tlie yolk of an egg, and
then roil them in bread crumbs ; spit them on a lark spit,
<\m\ tie that on to a larger spit, ten or fifteen minutes
at a quick fire will be enough ; baste them with fresh
butter while they are roasting, and sprinkle them with
bread crumbs till they are well covered with them.
For the Sauce, fry some grated bread in clarified
butter, see (No '2.59), and set it to drain before the
fire, that it may harden : serve the crumbs under the
l.arks when you dish them, and garnish them with
slices of Lemon.
Il'/icat Ears — {"So. 81.)
Are dressed in the same way as Larks.
Lohitrr. — {^o. 82.)
See Ixeceipt for boiling, (No. 176.)
We give no Receipt for roasting Lobster, Tongue, <fe(\
being of oi)inion with Dr. King, who says,
" P._\ floMbtihw, ihiii wlikli I iir fiiitfiill er8 Biiled,
Ai'iJ boiling wlial ility luas-ied, iiiucli ifc spi<ik'il."
THE
COOICS ORACLE,
FRYING.
To clarify Drippings. — (No. 83.)
Put your dripping into a clean saucepan over a stove
or slow fire : when it is just going to boil, skim it well,
let it boil, and then let it stand till it is a little cooled,
then pour it through a sieve into a pan.
Obs.SN eWcXe^iXisedi Drippings* J and the fat Skimmings^
* Mrs. Melroe, in her Economical Cookery, page 7, tells \is, she has
ascertained from actual experiments, that " the Drippi?tgs of Roast Meat,
combined with Wheat, Flour, Oatmeal, Barley, Pease, or Potatoe Starch, will
make delicious Soup, agreeable and savoury to the Palate, and nutritive and
serviceable to the Stomach, and that while a joint is roasting, good Soup may
be made from the drippings of the Fat, which is the Essence of Meat, as
»eed8 are of Vegetables, and impregnates Soup uith the identical taste of
Meat."
" Writers on Cookery give strict directions to carefully skirn off the Fat,
and in the next sentence order Butter (a much more expensive article) to
be added,— instead of this, when any Fat appears at the top of your Soup
or Stew, do not skim it oflf, but unite it with the broth by means of the
vegetable mucilages, Flonr, Oatmeal, Ground Barley, or Potatoe-Starch ; when
suspended, the Soup is equally agreeable to the palate, and nutritive to the
Stomach," &c.
" Coolts bestow a great deal of pains to make Gravies ; they stew and boij
Jean meat for hours, and after all their Cookery tastes more of Pepper and
Salt than any thing else : — If they would add the bulk of a chesnut of solid
Fat to a common sized sance-boatfnl of Gravy, it will give it more sapidity
than twenty hours stewing lean meat would, unless- a larger quantity was used
than is warranted by the rules of frugality." See (%os. 205 and 229.)
" The experiments of Dr. Stark on the noui isliing powers of ditterent sub-
stances, go very far to prove that three ounces of the Fat of Boiled Beef are
equal to a pound of the Lean. Dr. Pages, the traveller, confii ms this opinion.
* Being obliged,' says he, * during the journey from >.orth to South America
by land, to live solely on Animal food, I expenenced the truth of what is
observed by Hunters, who live solely on Animal Food, viz. that besides their
receiving little nourishment from the leaner parts cf it, it soon becomes
pffensive to the Tas!e, whereas the Fat is both nuie nutritive, and continues
to be agreeable to the Palate, lo many Stomachs Fat is unpleasant and indi-
gestible, especially when converted into oil by heat: this may be easily
prevented by the simple process of combining the Fat completely with water,
by the intervention of vegetable mucilage, as in melting Bniter, by means of
flour, the Tutter and water are united into a homogeneous fluid.'" — From
Practical Econofny, by a Physician. Callow, 1801.
t See ISote at foot of (No. 201.)
K 2
196 FRYING.
of tlie Broth pot, ^vben fresh and sweet, will baste every
thing: as well as Butter, except i^ame and poultry, and
should supply the place of butter for common fries, &c.
for which they are equal to lard, especially if you repeat
the clarifying twice over.
N. B. If you keep it in a cool place, you may preserve
it a fortnight in summer, and longer in winter. When
you have done Fryin<x, let the dripping stand a few
minutes to settle, and then pour it tlirough a sieve into
a clean Basin or stone Pan ; and it will do a second
and a third time as well as it did the first, — only the
Fat you have fried Fish in must not be used for any
other purpose.
To darifij Sucf, to fry nit L — (So. 84)
Cut Beef or Mutton suet into thin slices, pick out all
the veins and skins, &c. put it into a thick and well
tinned saucepan, and set it over a xery .slow .stove, or in
an oven, till it is melted; you must not hurry it, — if
not done very slowly it will acquire a burnt taste,
which you cannot get rid of; — then strain it through
a hair sieve into a clean brown pan. — When quite cold,
tie a paper over it and keep it for use. Hog's-lard is
prepared in the same way.
Obs. — The waste occasioned by the present absurd
fashion of over-feeding Cattle — till the Fat is nearly
equal to the Lean, — may, by good management, be in
some measure prevented, — by cutting off the superfluous
part, and preparing it as above, or by making it into
Puddings, see (Nos. 551 and 554), or Soup (No. 229.)
Steaks. — {:so. 85.)
Cut the steaks rather thinner than for broiling. Put
some Butter or (No. 83) into an iron frying-pan, and
when it is hot, lay in the steaks, and keep turning them
till they are done enough. For Sauce, see (No. 356),
and for the accompaniments (No. 94.)
Obs. — Unless the Fire be prepared on purpose, we
FRYING. 197
like this way of cooking them ; the gravy is preserved ;
and the meat is more equally dressed, and more evenly
browned ; which makes it more rehshing, and invites
the eye to encourage the Appetite.
Beefsteaks andOnions. — (No. 86.) See also
(No. 501.)
Fry the steaks according to the directions given in
the preceding receipt ; and have ready for them some
Onions, prepared as directed in (No. 299.)
For Stewed Rump Steaks, see (Nos. 500 and 501.)
Sausages — (No. 87.)
Are best when quite fresh made. — Put a bit of Butter,
or Dripping (No. 83), into a clean Frying-Pan; as soon
as it is melted (before it gets hot) put in the Sausages,
and shake the pan for a minute, and keep turning them,
(be careful not to break or prick them in so doing), fry
them over a very slow fire, till they are nicely browned
on all sides, — when they are done, lay thera on a hair
sieve, placed before the fire for a couple of minutes to
drain the fat from them. T/ie secret of frying Sausages,
is to let them get hot very gradually — they then will
not burst, if they are not stale.
The common practice to prevent them bursting, is to
prick them with a fork, but this lets all their Gravy
out.
You msiy froth tliem by rubbing them with cold fresh
butter, — and lightly dredge them with flour, and put
them in a cheese toaster or Dutch oven for a minute.
Some oxer-economical Cooks, insist that no butter or
lard, &c. is required ; their own fat being sufficient to
fry them ; — we have tried it, — the Sausages were par-
tially scorched, and had thdit pije- bald appearance, that
fried things have when sufficient fat is not allowed.
Obs. — Poached Eggs, (No. 548), Pease-Pudding,
(No. 555), and mashed Potatoes, (No. 106), are agree-
able accompaniments to Sausages, and Sausages are as
198
FRYING.
welcome with Boiled or Roasted Poultry or Veal ; —
or Boiled Tripe, (No. 18); so are ready dressed
German Sausages, See Mem. to (No. 13), and a
convenient, easily digestible, and invigorating- food for
the aged, and those whose teeth are defective, as is
also (No. 503.) For Sauce (No. 356), to make Mus-
tard (Nos. 369 and 70.)
N. B. Sausages, when finely chopped, are a deli-
cate " Bunne Bouchc ;" and require very little assist-
ance from the Teeth, to render them quite ready for
the Stomach.
Su-cct breads full dressed.— (^o. 88.)
Parboil them and let them get cold, — then cut them
in pieces, about three quarters of an inch thick, — dip
them in the yolk of an I'^g^, then in fine bread crumbs,
(some add Spice, Lemon peel, and Sweet herbs); put
some clean dripping (No. 83), into a fryingpan ; when
it boils, put in the Sweetbreads, and fry them a fine
brown. For Garnish, crisp Parsley; and for Sauce,
Mushroom catsup and melted butter, or Anchovy sauce,
or (No. 356), (No. 343), or (No. 343'), or Bacon or
Ham as (No. 526) and (No. 527.)
Sweetbreads plain. — (No. 89.)
Parboil and slice them as before, dry them on a clean
cloth, — flour them, and fry them a delicate brown;
take care to drain the fat well from them, and garnish
them with slices of lemon, and sprigs of chervil or
Parsley, or crisp Parsley, (No. 318). For sauce
(No. 356), or (No. 307), and Slices of Ham or Bacon as
(No. 526) or (No. 527.)
*^* Take eare to have afresh Sweetbread; — it spoils
sooner than almost any things therefore should he parboiled
as soon as it comes in. This is called blanching, or setting
it : Mutton kidneys (No. 95) are sometimes broiled and
sent tip with Sweetbreads,
FRYING. 199
Veal Cutlets. — Qso, 90), and (No. .521.)
Let your cutlets be about half an inch thick, trim
them, and flatten them with a cleaver; you may fry
them in fresh butter, or good drippings (No. 83); when
brown on one side, turn them and do the other; if the
fire is very fierce, they must change sides oftener. —
The time they will take, depends on the tliickness of
the Cutlet and the heat of the fire: — half an inch thick
will take about fifteen minutes. Make some Gravy,
by putting the trimmings into a stewpan with a little
soft water, an onion, a roll of lemon peel, a blade of
mace, a sprig of thyme and parsley, and a bay leaf;
stew over a slow fire an hour, then strain it; put an
ounce of butter into a stewpan ; as soon as it is melted,
mix with it as much flour as will dry it up, stir it ovtr
the fire for a few minutes, then add the gravy by de-
grees till it is all mixed, boil it for five minutes, and
strain it through a tammis sieve, and put it to the
cutlets : you may add some Browning (No. 322),
Mushroom (No. 439), or walnut Catsup, or Lemon
pickle, &c. ; see also Sauces (No. 343), and (No. 348.)
Cut the Veal into pieces about as big as a crown
piece, beat them with a cleaver, dip them in e^g beat
up with a little salt, and then in fine bread crumbs;
fry tliem a light brown in boiling lard ; serve under them
some good Gravy or Mushroom Sauce (No. 307), which
may be made in five minutes. Garnish with Slices of
Ham or Rashers of Bacon, (Nos. 526 and 527), or Pork
Sausages, (No. 87.)
Obs. — Veal forcemeat or stuflSng, (Nos. 374
and 5), Pork Sausages, (No. 87), Rashers of Bacon,
(No. 526 and 527), are very relishing accompaniment?,
fried and sent up in the form of Balls or Cakes, and
laid round as a Garnish.
Lamb or Mutton Chops — (No. 92.)
Are dressed in the same way, and garnished with
crisp parsley (No. 318), and slices of lemon.
200 FRYIxNG.
If they are bread-crumbed and covered with but-
tered writing paper, and then broiled, they are called
■* Maintdion Cutlets!'
Pork C/iops.— (No. 93.)
Cut the Chops about half an inch thick ; Tri/u them
neatly ; (few Cooks have any idea how much credit they
get by this), put a frying-pan ou the fire, with a bit of
butter; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops, turning
tiieni often till brown all over, they will be enough in
about fifteen minutes : take one upon a plate and try
it; if done, season it with a little finely minced onion,
powdered Sage, and pepper and salt. Fur Gra\ii and
Sauce, see (Nos. 300, 304, 341, and 356.)
Oba. — A little powdered Sage, &c., strewed over
them, will give them a nice relish, or the Savoury
Powder in (No. 51), or Forcemeat Sausages like
(No. 378.)
Do not have them cut too thick,— about three Chops
to an inch and a quarter, — trim them neatly, beat them
fiat, have ready some sweet herbs, or Sage and Onion
clio[)j)ed fine, put them in a stewpan with a bit of
Butter about as big as a walnut, — let them have one
fry, beat two L'ggs on a plate with a little salt, add to
them the herbs, mix it all well together, dip the chops
in one at a time all over, and then with bread-crumbs,
fry them in hot lard or drippings till they are a light
brown.
Obs. — Veal, Lamb, or Mutton Chops, are very good
dressed in like manner.
To fry Fish, see (No. 145.)
N. B. To Fry Eggs and Omelettes, and other
thingSy see the Index.
THE
COOK^S ORACLE.
BROILING.
Chops or Steaks'". — (No. 94.)
To Stew them, see (No. 500), — ditto with Onions,
(No. 501.)
Those who are nice about Steaks, never attempt to
have them, except in weather which permits the meat to be
hung till it is tender — and give the Butcher some days'
notice of their wish for them.
The best Steaks are those cut from the middle of
a Rump, that has been killed at least four days in
moderate weather, — much longer in cold weather —
when they can be cut about six inches long, four
inches wide, and half an inch thick — do not beat
them, unless you suspect they will not be tender.
Desire the Butcher to cut them of even thickness —
if he does not — divide the thicker from the thinner
pieces — and give them time accordingly.
Take care to have a very clear brisk fire, throw a
little salt on it, make the Gridiron hot, and set it
slanting, to prevent the fat from dropping into the fire,
and making a smoke. It requires more practice and
care than is generally supposed to do Steaks to a nicety ;
and for want of these little attentions, this very common
• The season for these is from the 29th of September to the Coth of March ;
to eusure their beiug teuder wheu out of season, stew th£.m as iu Receipt
(No. 500.)
TO WARM CP COLD RUMP STEAKS.
Lay them in a stewpan, with one large Union cut in quarters, six berries
of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper, cover ihe Sltaks with boiling water,
let them stew gently one hour, thicken the liquor wiih Flour and Butler
rubbed together on a plate; if a pint of gravy, about one ounce of Flour
and the like weight of Butter will do ; put it into the Stewpan, shake it well
over the fire for five minutes, and it is ready ; lay the Steaks and Onion on a
dish, and pour the Gravy through a sieve over them.
K 5
202 BROILING.
dish, which every body is supposed capable of dressing;
seldom comes to table in perfection.
Ask those you Cook for, if they like it under, or
thoroughly done; and what acconipaniments they like
best; — it is usual to put a tablespoonful of Catsup
(No. 439)— or '' Balls' Cavice," and a little minced
Shallot or (No. 402) into a dish before the fire; while
you are broiling — turn the Steak, d-c. with a pair of
Steak tong^s — it will bi- done in about ten or fifteen
minutes; rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up
garnislied with Pickles and finely scraped Horseradish.
(Nos. 135, 278, 299, 255, 402,423,439, and 356,) are
the Sauces usually composed for Chops and Steaks.
N. B. Macbetii's Receipt for Beef Steaks is the
best. —
" tihen 'tis done, 'tirere well
" 1/ 'twere done quickly."
Ohs.— " Le f't'ritah/e Bifteck, rowme il se fart en
Jng/eterrc," as Mons. Beauvillicrs calls (in his I' /Irt du
Cui.sinicr, torn. i. 8vo. Paris, 1814, page 122,) what Hi:
says, — We call " Romcdeck,'' — is as highly esteemed
by our French neighbours, as their " Ragouts" are by
our Countrymen, who
" post to Paris go,
" Merely to ta«te their Soups, and Mnshrx»oms know."
KiNc's Art oj Cookery, p. 19-
Thcse lines were written, before the establishment of
Albion Housr, Aldersgate-Street, where every Luxury
that Nature and Art produce, is served of the primest
quality, and in the most scientific manner — in a style
of princely magnificence and perfect comfort — tl.e
Wines, Liqueurs, &c. are superlative — and every de-
partment of the business of the Banquet is conducted
in the most liberal manner.
The French author whom we have before so often
quoted, assures les Amateurs de Bonne C/idre on the other
side of the Water, it is well worth their while to cross
the Channel to taste this favourite English dish, wiiich
when " jnortifiee d son point" 2ind well dressed, he says,
BROILING.
203
is superior to most of the subtle Relishes of the Parisian
kitchen. — Almanack des Gourmands, vol. i. p. 27,
Beef is justly accounted the most nutritious animal
Food— the celebrated Trainers, Sir Thomas Parkyns,
&c. greatly preferred Beef-eaters— to S/teep-Biters —
as they called those who ate Mutton. When Humphrits
the pugilist was trained by Ripsham, the keeper of
Ipswich Jail, he was at first fed on BeeJ, but got so
much flesh — it was changed for Mutton — roasted, or
Iroikd, — when boiled, great part of the nutritive juices
of the meat is extracted.
The principles upon which trainixg* is conducted,
resolve themselves into Temperance without abstemious-
ness, and Exercise without fatigue.
Kidneys. — (No. 95.)
Cut them through the long way, — score them,
sprinkle a little pepper and salt on them, and run a
wire skewer through them to keep them from curling
on the Gridiron— so that they may be evenly broiled.
Broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often
till they are done ; they will take about ten or twelve
minutes, if the fire is brisk : or Fry them in Butter, and
make gravy for tliem in the pan (after you have taken
out the kidneys), by putting in a teaspoonful of flour ;
as soon as it looks brown, put in as much water as will
make gravy ; they will take five minutes more to fry
than to broil. For Sauce, (Nos. 318, 355, and 356.)
Obs. — Some Cooks chop a few Parsley leaves very
fine, and mix them with a bit of fresh butter and a
little Pepper and Salt — and put a little of this mixture
on each Kidney.
A Fowl or Rabbit, SfC. — (No. 97.)
We can only recommend this method of dressing,
when the Fire is not good enough for roasting.
•See "The Art of Invigorating and Prolonging Life, — b/
the Editor of " the Cook's Oracle."
204 BROILING.
Pick and truss it the same as for boiling', cut it open
down the back, wipe the inside clean with a cloth,
season it with a little pepper and salt, have a clear
fire, and set the gridiron at a good distance over it,
lay the chicken on with the inside towards the fire;
(you may e^g it and strew some grated bread over it)
and broil it till it is a fine brown — take care the fleshy
side is not burnt. Lay it on a hot dish, pickled Mush-
rooms, or Mushroom Sauce (No. 305), thrown over it,
or Parsley and ' Butter (No. 261), or melted Butter
flavoured with Mushroom Catsup (No. 307.)
Garnish it with slices of Lemon, and the Liver and
Gizzard, slit and notched, and seasoned with pepper
and salt, and broiled nicely brown, and some slices of
lemon. For Grill sauce, see (No. 355.)
N. B. " It was a great mode, and taken up by the
court party in Oliver Cromwell's time, to roast /lalf
Capons — pretending they had a more exquisite taste
and nutriment than when dressed whole." — Sec Joan
Cromwell's Kite /ten, London, 1664, page 39.
Pigeons, — {IS^o. 98.)
To be worth the trouble of picking, must be well
^own, and well fed.
Clean them well, and pepper and salt them; broil
them over a clear slow fire ; turn them often, and put
a little butter on them : when they are done, pour over
them, either stewed (No. 305) or pickled Mushrooms,
or Catsup and melted Butter (No. 307) — or (Nos. 348
or 355.)
Garnish with fried bread Crumbs or Sippets (No.
319) ; OR, when the Pigeons are trussed as for boiling,
fiat them with a cleaver, taking care not to break the
skin of the backs, or breasts ; season them with pepper
and salt, a little bit of butter, and a teaspoonful of
water, and tie them close at both ends ; so when they
are brought to Table, they bring their Sauce with them.
Egg and dredge them well with grated bread (mixed
BROILING. 205
with Spice and Sweet herbs, if you please), then lay
them on the gridiron, and turn them frequently: if
your fire is not very clear, lay them on a sheet of paper
well buttered, to keep them from getting smoked.
They are much better broiled whole.
The same Sauce as in the preceding receipt, or
(Nos. 343, or 348.)
Veal Cutlets (No. 521), and (No. 91.)
Pork Chops (No. 93 )
THE
COOK'S ORACLE,
VEGETABLES.
Sixteen Ways of dressing Potatoes*.
(No. 102.)
The Vegetable Kingdom affords no Food more whole-
some, more easily procured, easily prepared, or less
expensive than the Potatoe ; yet althouiT^h this most
useful vegetable is dressed almost every day, in almost
every family, — for One plate of Potatoes that comes to
table as it should, Ten are spoiled.
Be careful in your choice of Potatoes ; no vegetable
varies so much in colour, size, shape, consistence, and
flavour.
The reddi.^h coloured are better than the white, but
the yellowish looking ones are the best. Choose those
of a moderate si/e, free from blemishes, and fresh, and
buy them in the Mould ; they must nut be netted till they
are cleaned to be cooked. Protect them from the Air
and Frost — by laying them in heaps in a cellar,
covering them with mats, or burying them in sand or
in earth. The action of Frost — is most destructive —
if it be considerable, the life of the vegetable is de-
stroyed, and the Potatoe speedily rots.
Wash them, but do not pare or cut them unless they
are very large, — fill a saucepan half full of Potatoes of
• " Next to Bread, there is no vegetable article, the preparation of wliich,
as food, deserves to be more attended to, tlian the Potatoe." — Sir Juuw
Sinclair's Code of Health, \o\.\.^. 354.
" By the Analysis of Potatoe, it appears tliat l6 ounces contained llj
oances of water— and the \\ ounces of solid paru reiiiaii)ing attbrded scarce
a drachm of earth." — Parme.vtikr's Ubs. on Nutritive ^ egetaUtet, 8vo.
1783, p. 1«. .
Vegetables. 207
equal size*, (or make them so by dividing the larger
ones) — put to them as much cold water as will cover
them about an inch : they are sooner boiled, and more
savoury than when drowned in water — most boiled
things are spoiled by having too little water, but
Potatoes are often spoiled by too much : they must
merely be covered, and a little allowed for waste in
boiling, so that they may be just covered at the finish.
Set them on a moderate fire till they boil, then take
them off, and set them by the side of the fire to simmer
slowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork, —
(place no dependence on the usual test of their skin
cracking, which, if they are boiled fast, will happen to
some Potatoes when they are not half done, and the
inside is quite hard,) — then pour the water off, (if you
let the Potatoes remain in the water a moment after
they are done enough — they will become waxy and
watery,) uncover the saucepan, and set it at such a
distance from the fire as will secure it from burning;
their superfluous moisture will evaporate, and the
Potatoes will be perfectly dry and mealy.
You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to
the size of the saucepan's diameter, over the Potatoes,
to keep thenj hot and mealy till wanted.
Obs. — This method of managing Potatoes is in every
respect equal to steaming them; and they are dressed
in half the time.
There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of
Potatoes, that it is impossible to say how long they
will take doing ; the best way is to try them with a
fork. Moderate sized Potatoes will generally be
enough in fifteen or twenty minutes. See Obs. to
(No. lOS.)
Cold Potatoes Fried. — (^o. 102*.)
Put a bit of cleaa Dripping into a frying-pan ; when
• Or the SMALL o.nks will be done to pieces before the large onbs are
fcoiied enougti.
208 VEGETABLES.
it is melted, slice in your Potatoes with a little pepper
and salt, put tliem on the tire, keep stirring- them ; —
when they are quite hot, they are ready.
Obs. — '1 his is a very good way of re-dressing Pota-
toes— or see (No. lOG.)
Putatoe.s hoilul and broiled. — (No. 103.)
Dress your Potatoes as before directed, and put
them on a e;ridiron over a very clear and brisk fire ;
turn them till they are brown all over, and send them
up dry, with melted butter in a cup.
Potatoes fried in Slices or S/iaii/igs. — (No. 104.)
Peel large Potatoes, slice them about a quarter of
an inch thick, or cut them in shavings round and round
as you would peel a lemon ; dry them well in a clean
cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping. Take care
that your fat and frying-pan are quite clean ; put it on
a quick fire, watch it, and as soon as the lard boils,
and is still, put in the slices of potatoe, and keep
moving them till they are crisp ; take them up and lay
them to drain on a sieve ; send them up with a very
little salt sprinkled over them.
Potatoes fried w/iole. — (No. 1 05.)
When nearly boiled enough, as directed in (No. 102),
put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter, or some
nice clean beef drippings ; shake them about often (for
fear of burning them), till they are brown and crisp ;
drain them from the fat.
Obs. — It will be an elegant improvement to the
three last receipts, previous to frying or broiling the
Potatoes, to flour them and dip them in the yolk of an
egg, and then roll them in fine sifted bread crumbs ;
they will then deserve to be called potatoes full
DRESSED.
Potatoes ?naslied. — (No. 106.) See also (No. 112.)
When your Potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain
VEGETABLES. 209
dry, pick out every speck, &c. and while hot, rub
them through a cullender into a clean stew pan : to
a pound of Potatoes put about half an ounce of butter,
and a tablespoonful of milk : do not make them too
moist ; mix them well together.
Obs. — -iff^r Lady-daji, when the Potatoes are get-
ting old and specky, and in frosty "weather, this is the
best way of dressing them. You may put them into
shapes, egg them with yolk of Egg, and brown them
very slightly before a slow fire.
Potatoes mashed uith Onions. — (No. 107.)
Prepare some boiled onions, by putting them through
a sieve, and mix them with Potatoes. In proportioning
the Onions to the Potatoes, you will be guided by your
wish to have more or less of their flavour.
Obs. — See note under (No. 555.)
Potatoes Escanoped. — (No. 108.)
Mash Potatoes as directed in (No. 1 06) ; then butter
some nice clean scollop shells, or patty pans, put in
your Potatoes, make them smooth at the top, cross a
knife over them, strew a few fine bread crumbs on
them, sprinkle them with a paste brush with a few
drops of melted butter, and then set them in a Dutch
oven ; — when they are browned on the top, take them
carefully out of the shells, and brown the other side.
Colcannon.~(No. 108*.)
Boil Potatoes and Greens, or Spinage — sepa-
rately — Mash the Potatoes — squeeze the Greens dry,
chop them quite fine, and mix them with the Potatoes
with a little butter, pepper and salt — put it into a
mould, greasing it well first ; let it stand in a hot oven
for ten minutes.
Potatoes Roasted. —(No. 109.)
Wash and dry your Potatoes {all of a size), and put
210
VEGETABLES.
them in a tin Dutcli oven, or cheese toaster; — take
care not to put them too near the fire, or they will get
burnt on the outside before they are warmed through.
Large Potatoes will require two hours to roast them.
N. B. To save time and trouble, some Cooks half
boil them first.
This is one of the best opportunities the Baker has
to rival the Cook.
Potatoes Roasted under Meat.- (No. 110.)
Half boil large Potatoes, — draiti the water from
them, and put them into an earthen dish, or small tin
pan, under Meat that is roasting, and baste them with
some of the dripping; — when they are browned on
oi)e side, turn them and brown the other, — send them
up round the meat, or in a small dish.
Pofatoc Balls. — (So. 111.)
Mix mashed Potatoes with the yolk of an e^^y roll
them into balls, flour them, or egg and bread-crumb
them, and fry them in clean drippings, — or brown
them in a Dutch oven.
Pofafoe Balls Ragout — (So. 112.)
Are made by adding to a pound of Potatoes a
quarter of a pound of grated ham, or some sweet
herbs, or chopped parsley, and onion or shallot, salt,
pepper, and a little grated nutmeg, or other spice, with
the yolk of a couple of eggs ; they are then to be
dressed as (No. 111.)
Obs. — An agreeable vegetable relish, and a good
supper dish.
Potatoe Snoic. — (No. 114.)
The Potatoes must be free from spots, and the
whitest you can pick out; put them on in cold water;
when they begin to crack, strain the water from them,
VEGETABLES.
211
and put them into a clean stewpan by the side of the
fire till they are quite dry and fall to pieces ; rub them
through a wire sieve on the dish they are to be sent up
in, and do not disturb them afterwards.
Pofaifoe Pie. — (No. 115.)
Peel and slice your Potatoes very thin, into a pie
dish; between each layer of Potatoes put a little
chopped onion, (three quarters of an ounce of onion is
sufficient for a pound of Potatoes) ; between each
layer sprinkle a little pepper and salt, put in a little
water, and cut about two ounces of fresh butter into
little bits, and lay them on the top : cover it close with
puff paste. It will take about an hour and a half to
bake it.
N. B. The Yolks of four Eggs (boiled hard) may be
added; and when baked, a tablespoonful of good
Mushroom Catsup poured in through a funnel.
Obs. — Cauliflowers divided into mouthsful, and
Button Onions, seasoned with Curry Powder, &c.,
make a favourite Vegetable Pie.
New Potatoes. — (No. 116.)
The best way to clean New Potatoes, is to rub them
with a coarse cloth or a flannel, or scrubbing brush J
and proceed as in (No. 192.)
N. B. New Potatoes are poor, watery, and insipid,
till they are full two inches diameter — they are hardly
worth the trouble of boiling before Midsummer Day.
Obs. — Some Cooks prepare Sauces to pour over
Potatoes, made with butter, salt, and pepper, — or
gravy, or melted butter and catsup, — or stew the
Potatoes in ale, or water seasoned with pepper and
salt; — or bake them with herrings, or sprats, mixed
with layers of potatoes, seasoned with pepper, salt,
sweet herbs, vinegar, and water; — or cut mutton or
beef into slices, and lay them in a stewpan, and on
them potatoes and spices, then another layer of the
212 VEGETABLES.
meat alternately, pouring in a little water, covering it
up very close, and stewing slowly.
Potatoe Mucilage (a good substitute for Arrow Root),
(No. 448.)
Jerusalem Artichokes — (No. 117.)
Are boiled and dressed in the various ways we have
just before directed for potatoes.
N.B. They should be covered with thick melted
butter, or a nice White or Brown Sauce.
Cabbage. — {^0. 118.)
Pick Cabbages very clean, and wash them tho-
roughly, then look them over carefully again ; quarter
them it" they are very large. Put them into a saucepan
with -plenty of builing water; if any scum rises, take it
oft', put a large spoonful of salt into the saucepan, and
boil them till the stalks feel tender. A Young Cabbage
will take about twenty minutes, or half an hour — when
Full Grunn, near an hour; see that they are well covered
with water all the time, and that no smoke or dirt
arises from stirring the fire. With careful management,
they will look as beautiful when dressed, as they did
when growing.
Obs. — Some Cooks say, that it will much ameliorate
the flavour of .'>trung Old Cabbages to boil them in two
waters; i.e. when they are half done, to take them
out, and put them directly into another saucepan of
boiling water, instead of continuing them in the water
into which they were first put.
Boiled Cabbage fried. — (No. 119.)
See Receipt for Bubble and Squeak.
Savoys — O^o. 120.)
Are boiled in the same manner ; quarter them when
you send them to table.
VEGETABLES. 213
Sprouts and Young Greens. — (No. 121.)
The Receipt we have written for Cabbages will
answer as well for Sprouts, only they will be boiled
enough in fifteen or twenty minutes.
Spinage,—{^o, 122.)
Spinage should be picked a leaf at a time, and
washed in three or four waters ; when perfectly clean,
lay it on a sieve, or cullender, to drain the water
from it.
Put a saucepan on the fire, three parts filled with
water, and large enough for the Spinage to float in it;
put a small handful of salt in it, let it boil, skim it,
and then put in the Spinage, make it boil as quick as
possible, till quite tender, pressing the Spinage down
frequently, that it may be done equally ; it will be
enough in about ten minutes, if boiled in plenty of
water; if the Spinage is a little old, give it a few
minutes longer. When done, strain it on the back of
a sieve, squeeze it dry with a plate, or between two
trenchers, chop it fine, and put it into a stewpan with
a bit of butter and a little salt; a little cream is a
great improvement, or, instead of either, some rich
Gravy. Spread it in a dish, and score it into squares
of proper size to help at table.
Ohs. — Grated nutmeg, or mace, and a little lemon
juice, is a favourite addition with some cooks, and is
added when you stir it up in the stewpan with the
butter garnished. Spinage is frequently served with
Poached Eggs with fried bread.
Asparagus. — (No. 123.) "
Set a stewpan with plenty of water in it on the fire ;
sprinkle a handful of salt in it, let it boil, and skim it ;
then put in your Asparagus, prepared thus : — Scrape
all the stalks till they are perfectly clean, throw them
into a pan of cold water as you scrape them ; when
214 VEGETABLES.
they are all done, tie them up in little bundles, of
about a quarter hundred each, with bass, if you can
get it, or tape; string cuts them to pieces: cut off the
stalks at the bottom, that they may be all of a length,
leaving only just enough to serve as a handle for the
green part ; when they are tender at the stalk, which
will be in from twenty to thirty minutes, they are done
enough. Great care must be taken to uatch the exact
time of their becoming tender ; take them up just at that
instant, and they will have their true flavour and
colour; — a minute or two more boiling destroys both.
While the Asparagus is boiling, toast a round of a
quartern loaf, about half an inch thick, brown it deli-
cately on both sides, dip it lightly in the liquor the
Asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of a
dish : melt some butter (No. 256), then lay in the
Asparagus upon the Toait, which must project beyond
the Asparagus, that the company may see there is a
Toast.
Pour no butter over them, but send some up in a
boat, or White Sauce (No. 364), (No. 2.)
Sea Kale — {"So. 124.)
Is tied up in bundles, and dressed in the same way
as Asparagus.
Caulifio-u:er.—(So. 125.)
Choose those that are close and white, and of the
middle size, trim off the outside leaves, cut the stalk
off flat at the bottom, let them lie in salt and water an
hour before you boil them.
Put them into boiling water with a handful of salt in
it, skim it well, and let it boil slowly till done, which a
small one will be in fifteen, a large one in about twenty
minutes, take it up the nwment it i,s enovgh, a minute or
two longer boiling will spoil it.
N. H. Cold Caulrfiuuers, and French Beans, Carrots and
Turnips, boiled so as to eat rather crisp, are sometimes
dressed as a Salad, (No. 372 or 453.)
VEGETABLES. 215
Brocoli.—{No. 126.)
Set a pan of clean cold water on the table, — and a
saucepan on the fire with plenty of water, and a hand-
ful of salt in it.
Brocoli is prepared by stpipping off all the side
shoots, leaving the top ; peel off the skin of the stalk
with a knife, cut it close off at the bottom, and put it
into the pan of cold water.
When the water in the stewpan boils, and the Brocoli
is ready, put it in, let it boil briskly till the stalks feel
^tender, from ten to twenty minutes ; — take it up with
a slice, that you may not break it; — let it drain, and
serve up.
If some of the heads of Brocoli are much bisrsrer than
the others, put them on to boil first, so that they may
get all done together.
Obs. — It makes a nice supper dish served upon a
toast, like Asparagus. It is a very delicate vegetable,
and you must take it up the moment it is done, and
send it to table /luL
Red But Roots — CNo. 127.)
Are not so much used as they deserve ; they are
dressed in the same way as Parsnips, only neither
scraped nor cut till after they are boiled : they will take
from an hour and a half to three hours in boiling,
according to their size, — to be sent to table with Salt
Fish, Boiled Beef, &c. When young, large, and juicy,
it is a very good variety, — an excellent garnish, —
and easily converted into a very cheap and pleasant
pickle.
Parsnips — (No. 128.)
Are to be cooked just in the same manner as Carrots ;
they require more or less time according to their size,
therefore match ihem in size, and you must try them,
by thrusting a fork into them as they are in the water;
216 VEGETABLES.
when that goes easily tlirougli, they are done enough;
boil them from an hour to two hours, according to their
size and freshness.
Obs. — Parsnips are sometimes sent up mashiStt in
the same way as Turnips, and some Cooks quarter
them before they boil them.
Carrots. — {So. 129.)
Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped ;
an hour is enough for young spring carrots; grown
carrots must be cut in half, and will take from an hour
and a half to two ho\n-s and a half. When done, rub"
off the peels with a clean coarse cloth, and slice them
in two or four, according to their size. The best way
to try if they are done enough, is to pierce them with
a fork.
0/m. — .Many people are fond of cold Carrot with
cold Beef.
Turnqis. — (No. 130.)
Peel off half an inch of the stringy outside ; full-
grown turnips will take about an hour and a half
gentle boiling; if you slice them, which most people
do, they will be done sooner ; try them with a fork, —
when tender, take them up, and lay them on a sieve till
the water is thoroughly drained from them: send them
up whole; do not slice them.
N.B. To veiy young Turnips leave about two inches
of the Green Top. See (No. 132.)
To Mash Turnips. -(No. 131 )
When they are boiled quite tender, squeeze them as
(Irij as possible between two trenchers, put them into a
saucepan, mash them with a wooden spoon, and rub
them through a cullender, add a little bit of butter,
keep stirring them till the butter is melted and well
mixed with them, and they are ready for table.
VEGETABLES. 217
Turnip Toj?*-- (No. 132.)
Are the shoots which grow out (in the spring) of
the old turnip roots. Put them into cold water an hour
before they are dressed; the more water they are
boiled in, the better they will look ; — if boiled in a
small quantity of water, they will taste bitter ; — when
the water boils, put in a small handful of salt, and
then your vegetables ; if fresh and young, they will be
done in about twenty minutes ; drain them on the back
of a sieve.
French Beans. —(No. 133.)
Cut off the stalk end first, and then turn to the point
and strip off the strings: — If not quite fresh, have a
bowl of spring water, with a little salt dissolved in it,
standing before you, and as the beans are cleaned and
stringed, throw them in: — when all are done, put
them on the fire, in boiling water, with some salt in it ;
when they have boiled fifteen or twenty minutes, take
one out and taste it; as soon as they are tender, take
them up, throw them into a cullender or sieve to drain.
To send up the beans whole is much the best method
when they are thus young, and their delicate flavour
and colour are much better preserved. When a little
more grown, they must be cut across in two, after
stringing; and for common tables, they are split, and
divided across ; but those who are nice, never have
them at such a growth as to require splitting. When
they are large, they look verv pretty cut into Lozenges.
Obs. — See N.B. to (No. 125.)
Green Pease. * — (No. 134.)
Young Green Pease, well dressed, are one of the
most delicious delicacies of the vegetable kingdom.
They must be young ; it is equally indispensable that
« These and all other fruits ar.d vegetables, &c. by Mr. Appert's plan, it
is said, may be preserved in full flavour tor tvelve iiionlhs. — See Appert's
Book, 12ino. 1812. We have eaten of several specimens of preserved Fease,
— which looked pretty enough, — but Jiatcur ihe^ iiad none at all.
-L
218 VEGETABLES.
they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as they are
shelled, for they soon lose both their colour and
sweetness.
If you uish lo feast upon Pease in perfection, you
must have them gathered the same day they are
dressed, and put on to boil within half an hour after
they are shelled.
Pass them through a riddle^ i. e. a coarse sieve, which
is made for the purpose of separating them. This
precaution is necessary, for large and small pease
cannot be boiled together, as the former will take more
time than the latter.
For a peck of pease, set on a saucepan with a gallon
of water in it ; when it boils, put in your pease with a
tablespoonful of salt, — skim it well, keep them boiling
quick from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their
age and size : the best way to judge of their being
done enough, and indeed the only way to make sure of
cooking them to, and not beyond, the point of per-
fection, or, as Pea-eaters say, of " boiling them to a
bubble,'' is to take them out with a spoon and taste
them.
When they are enough, drain tuem on a hair sieve.
If you like them buttered, put them into a pie dish,
divide some butter into small bits, and lay them on the
pease ; put another dish over them, and turn them over
and over; this vnW melt the butter through them; but
as all people do not like buttered pease, you had better
send them to table plain, as they come out of the
Saucepan, with melted butter (No. 256), in a sance
tureen. It is usual to boil some Mint with the Pease ;
but if you wish to garnish the Pease with Mint, boil a
few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. See Sage and
Onion Sauce (No. 300), and Pea Powder (No. 458.)
To boil Bacon (No. 13), Slices of Ham and Bacon
(No. 526), and Relishing Rashers of Bacon (No. 527.)
N. B. A Peck of young Pease will not yield more
ttan enough for a couple of hearty Pea-Eaters, — whea
the pods are full, it may serve for three.
VEGETABLES. 219
Mem. — Never think of purchasing Pease ready-shelled,
for the cogent reasons assigned in the first part of this
Receipt.
Cucumber Stewed. — (No. 135.)
Peel and cut cucumbers in quarters, take out the
seeds, and lay them on a cloth to drain off the water :
when they are dry, flour and fry them in fresh butter ;
let the butter be quite hot before you put in the cucum-
bers ; fry them till they are brown, then take them out
with an egg slice, and lay them on a sieve to drain the
fat from them : (some Cooks fry sliced Onions or some
small Button Onions with them till they are a delicate
light brown colour, drain them from the fat, and) then
put them into a ste-A^an, with as much Gra^-y as will
cover them ; stew slowly till they are tender ; take out
the cucumbers with a slice, thicken the gravy Vt^ith
flour and butter, give it a boil up, season it \\\\h pepper
and salt, and put in the Cucumbers ; as soon as they
are warm, they are ready.
The above rubbed through a Tammis or fine sieve,
will be entitled to be called " Cucumber Sauce."
See (No. 399), Cucumber Vinegar. This is a very
favourite sauce with lamb or mutton cutlets, stewed
rump steaks, &c. &c. ; when made for the latter, a third
part of sliced onion is sometimes fried with the cucum-
ber.
Artichokes. — (No. 136.)
Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put
them into plenty of boiling water, with a handful of
salt, and let them boil gently till they are tender, which
will take an hour and a half, or two hours ; the surest
way to know when they are done enough, is to draw
out a leaf; trim them and drain them on a sieve; and
send up melted butter with them, which some put into
small cups, so that each guest may have one.
Stewed Onions. — (No. 137.)
The large Portugal Onions are the best; take off the
l3
220 VEGETABLES.
top-coats of half a dozen of these, (taking care not to
cut off the tops or tails too near, or the onions will go
to pieces); and put them into a stewpan broad enough
to hold them without laying them atop of one another,
and just cover them with good broth.
Put them over a slow fire, and let them simmer about
two hours ; when you dish them, turn them upside
down, and pour the sauce over.
Young Onions stewed, see (No. 296.)
Salads. — (^o. 138*), also (No. 372.)
Tliose who desire to see this subject elaborately
iUustrated, we refer to " Evylyn's /lataria," a dis-
course of Sallets, a 12mo. of 240 pages. London,
1699.
Mr. E. gives us '' an account of seventy-two herbs
proper and fit to make Sallet with," — and a table of
Thirtif-Fiie, telhng their seasons and proportions. " In
the composure of a Sallet, every plant should come in
to bear its part, like the notes in Music : thus the
comical Master Cook introduced by Danioxc?ius, when
asked, * what Harnionj/ there was in McaLs?' — ' the very
same,' says he, ' as the 3d, 5th, and 8th have to one
another in music — the main skill hes in this, not to
mingle (' .sapores minimc consenticntes) — ' Tastes not
well joined — inelegant,' as our Paradisian Bard directs
Ere when dressing a sallet for her Angtlical Guest.'" —
Milton's Paradise Lo.st.
He gives the following Receipt for the Oxoleon : —
" Take of clear and perfectly good Ch/l-Olive three
parts — of sharpest Vinegar, {sweetest of all Condiment s^
for it incites appetite, and causes Hunger, which is the
best sauce,) Limon, or juice of Orange, one part — and
therein let steep some slices of Horseradish, with a little
Salt : some, in a separate Vinegar, gently bruise a pod
of Ginny Pepper, and strain it to the other — then add
as much Mustard as will lie upon a half-crown piece.
Beat and mingle these well together with the yolk of
VEGETABLES. 221
two new-laid Eg^s boiled hard, and pour it over your
Sailet, stirring it well together. The 5z/jt;er-curious
insist that the knife with which Sailet herb is cut must
be of Silver — and some who are husbands of their Oyl
pour at first the Oyl alone, as more apt to communicate
and diffuse its slipperiness, than when it is mingled
and beaten with the Acids — which they pour on last
of all ; and it is incredible how small a quantity of Oyl
thus applied is sufficient to imbue a very plentiful
assembly of Sailet Herbs."
Obs. — Our own Directions to prepare and dress
Salads will be found under (No. 372.)
THE
COOICS ORACLE.
FISH.
Turbotto Bo^7. — (No. 140.)
This excellent Fish is in season the greatest part of
the Summer, — when good, it is at once firm and
tender, and abounds with rich gelatinous nutriment.
Being drawn, and washed clean, if it be quite fresh,
by rubbing it lightly with salt, and keeping it in a cold
place, you may in moderate weather preserve it for a
couple of days *.
An Hour or tivo before you dress it, soak it in spring
water with some salt in it, — then score the skin across
the thickest part of the back; (this is to prevent it
breaking on the Breast, which will happen from the
fish swelling, and cracking the skin, if this precaution
be not used.) Put a large handful of salt into a fish
* " I have ascertained, by many years' observation, that a Turbot kept
two or three days is much better eating than a very fresh one." — Ude's
Cookery, p. 238,
" TuRBOTS. The finest brought to the London market, are caught off the
Dutch coast, or German ocean, and are brought in well-boats alive. The
commencement of the season is generally about March and April, aud con-
tinues all the summer. Turbots, like other fish, do not spawn all at the same
time ; therefore.there is always good and bad nearly all the year round. For
tills year or two past, there has been an immense quantity brought to London,
from all parts, and of all qualities : a great many from a new fishery off
Hartlepool, which are a very handsome looking turbot, but by no means
equal to what are caught off the Dutch coast. Many excellent Turbots are
caught off Dover and Dungeness; and a large quantity brought from Scotland,
packed in ice, which are of a very inferior quality, and are generally to be
bought for about one fourth the price of good turbots.
" Brills are generally caught at the same place as turbots, and are generally
of the same quality as the tijrbot, from the different parts."
risH.
223
kettle with cold water, lay your fish on a fish strainer,
put it in, and when it is coming to a boil, skim it well ;
then set the kettle on the side of the fire, to boil as
gently as possible for about fifteen or twenty minutes ;
(if it boils fast, the fish will break to pieces) ; sup-
posing it a middling size Turbot, and to weigh eight or
nine pounds.
Rub a httle of tl-e inside Red Coral spawn of the
Lobster through a hair sieve, without butter; and
when the Turbot is dished, sprinkle the spawn over it.
Garnish the dish with sprigs of curled Parsley, sliced
Lemon, and finely scraped Horseradish.
If you like to send it to table in Full Dress, surround
it with nicely Fried Smelts (No. 173), laying the largest
opposite the broadest part of the Turbot; so that they
may form a well proportioned fringe for it, — or Oysters
(No. 183*), or cut a Sole in strips, crossways, about
the size of a Smelt; fry them as directed in (No. 145),
and lay them round. Send up Lobster sauce (No. 284),
two boats of it, if it is for a larp;e party.
N. B. Cold Turbot with (IVo. 372) for Sauce— or
take off the Fillets that are left — as soon as the Turbot
returns from Table — and they will make a side dish for
your next dinner, warmed in (No. 364), (No. 2.)
Ohs. — The thickest part is the favourite, and the
Carver of this Fish must remember to ask his friends if
they are Fin-Fanciers. It will save a troublesome Job to
the Carver, if the Cook, when the Fish is boiled, cuts
the spine-bone across the middle.
A Briil-(So. 143.)
Is dressed the same way as a Turbot.
Soles to EozX— (No. 144.)
A fine fresh thick Sole, is almost as good eating
as a Turbot.
Wash and clean it nicely ; put it into a fish-kettle
with a handful of salt, and as much cold water as will
cover it; set it on the side of the fire, take off the
224
FISH.
scum as it rises, and let it boil frently; — about five
minutes (according; to its size) will be long- enough,
unless it be very larg:e. Send it up on a fish-drainer
s:arnished with slices of Lemon and sprigs of curled
Parslev, or nicely fried Smelts (No. 173), or Oysters
(No. 183.)
Ohs. — Slices of Lemon are a universally acceptable
garnish, with either fried or broiled fish; — a few Sprii^s
of criq) l\irslcy may be added, if you wish to make it
look very smart; and Parsley, or Fennel and butter,
are excellent sauces, see (No. 261), and (No. 265), or
Chervil sauce (No. 264), Anchovy (No. 270).
N. B. Boiled Soles are very good uarmcd up like
Eels, Wio^gv's way (No. 164\ or covered with White
Sauce (No. 364), (No. 2), and see (No. 158.)
Soles, or other Fish, to Fry. — (No. 145.)
Soles are generally to be procured good from some
part of the coast, as some are going out of season, and
some coming in, both at tlie same time; a great many
are brought in well-boats, alive, that are caught otF
Dover, and Folkstone, and some are brought from the
same places by land carriage. The finest soles are
caught ofi" Plymouth, near the Eddistone, and all the
way up the Channel, and to Torbay ; and frequently
weigh eight or ten ])ouuds per pair : they are generally
brought by water to Portsmouth, and thence by land ;
but the greatest quantity are caught off Yarmouth and
the Knole,and off the Forelands
Be sure tliey are quite f res /i, or the most expert Cook
cannot make them either look, or eat well.
u4n hour before yon intend to dress them, wash them
thoroughly, and wrap them in a clean cloth, to make
them perfectly dry, — or the Bread crumbs v/ill not
stick to them.
Prepare some Bread Crumbs*, by rubbing some stale
• A large pair of Soles will take llie fourth part of a qnarlern Loaf, which
now costs twopence halfpenny. Oatmeal is a good substitul,; for Brtaii
Crnmbs, — and costs comparatively nothing!!
FISH. 225
bread through a Cullender; or, if you wish the Fish to
appear very dehcately and highly finished, through a
Hair sieve, or use Biscuit Powder.
Beat the yolk and white of an Egg well together, on
a plate, with a fork; — flour your fish to absorb any
moisture that may remain, and wipe it off with a clean
cloth: — dip them in the e^^ on both sides all over,
or, what is better, egg them with a paste brush, —
strew the Bread Crumbs all over the Fish, so that they
cover every part, — take up the fish by the head, and
shake off the loose crumbs. The Fish is now ready
for the Fryingpan.
Put a Quart or more of fresh sweet Olive Oil, or
Clarified Butter (No. 259), Dripping (No. 83), Lard*,
or Clarified Drippings (No. 83); be sure they are quite
sweet and perfectly clean : ft he Fat ought to cover the
Fish J: what we here order, is for Soles about ten inches
long, — if larger, cut them into pieces the proper size
to help at table ; this will save much time and trouble
to the Carver, — when you send them to table, lay them
in the same form they were before they were cut, and
you may strew a little curled Parsley over them : they
are much easier managed in the Fryingpan, and require
less Fat ; and you can by this means only fry the thick
part enough, without frying the tkin too much. Very
Large Soles should be boiled (No. 144), or fried in
Fillets (No. 147). Soles cut in pieces, crossways, about
the size of a Smelt ^ make a very pretty garnish, for stewed
Fish, and boiled Fish.
Set the fryingpan over a sharp and clear fire ; watch
it, skim it with an Egg slice, and when it boilsf, i. e.
when it has done bubbling, and the smoke just begins
to rise from the surface, put in the Fish: — if the Fat is
not extremely hot, it is impossible to fry Fish of a good
• The Fat will do Two or Three times, if strained through a hair sieve,
r.nd put by ; if you do not find it enough, put a little fresh to it. Read (No. 83),
and the 3d Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery.
t This requires a Heat of upwards of 600 degrees of FahreDheit's thermo-
meter— FRYING is, in fact. Boiling in Fat.
L 5
226 risii.
colour, or to keep them firm and crisp, (read the 3d
Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery).
The best way to ascertain the heat of the Fat, is to try
it with a bit of bread as big as a nut ; if it is quite hot
enough, the bread will bro^^^l immediately. Put in the
Fish, and it will be crisp and brown on the side next the
fire, in about four or five minutes ; to turn it, stick a
two-pronfred fork near the head, and support the tail
with a fish-slice, and fry the other side.
Fry One Sole at a time, except the pan is very large,
and YOU have jilenty of fat.
When the Fish are fried, lay them on a soft cloth
(old table cloths are best), near enough the fire to keep
tliem warm ; turn them eicri/ tuo or three minutes, till
they are quite dry on both .yiV/t'5 — this, common Cooks
commonly neglect. It will take ten or fifteen minutes*,
if the Fat you fried them in was not hot enough ; when
it is, they want very little drying. When Soles are friedy
they will keep very good in a dry place for three or Jour
days ; uarm them, by hanging them on the hooks in a Dutch
oven, letting them heat very gradually, by putting it some
distance from the fire for about tucnti/ ?ninufes, or in good
Graiu, as Eels, WiJgy's way, (Nos. 164, 299, 337,
or 356.)
Obs. — There are several general rules in this Receipt
which apply to all Fried Fish:— we have been very
particular and minute in our directions; — for, althougli
a Fried Sole is so frequent and favourite a dish, it is
very seldom brought to table in perfection!.
• Tf you are in lia«te, lay the Sole on a clean soft cloth, cover it with it,
and gently press it upon the fish to suck up the fat from its surface.
t The very indiftVrent manner in which the operation of frying fish is
asnally pei formed, we suppose, produced the following jeu d'aprit, which
appeared in T/ie Morning Chronicle : —
" The Kind's Bench Reports have cook'd up an odd dish.
An action for dama^Tes, Fry versus Fish.
"But sure, if for damages action c^nld lie.
It certainly must have been Fish against Fry."
n^e author of the Cook's Cookery, 8vo. paee 116, docs not seem to think
this fish can be too fresh ; for he commences his directions with, *' I/you can,
get a Cod hot out of the Sea," &c.
FISH. 227
Soles to Stew. -(No. 146.)
These are half fried, and then done the same as Eels,
V/iggy's way. See (No. 164.)
Fillets of Soles, Broun or White.— Q\o. 147.)
Take off the Fillets very nicely — trim them neatly,
and press them dry between a soft cloth; Egg, —
Crumb, and Fry them, &c. as directed in (No. 145,) —
or boil them, and serve them with (No. 364), (No. 2.)
N. B. This is one of the best ways of dressing very
large Soles. See also (No. 164).
Shate.~-{^o. 148.)
Is very good when in good season, but no fish so bad
when it is otherwise : those persons that like it firm and
dry, should have it crimped ; but those that like it ten-
der, should have it plain, and eat it not earlier than the
second day, and if cold weather, three or four days
old it is better : it cannot be kept too long, if perfectly
sweet. Young Skate eats very fine, crimped and fried,
see (No. 154.)
Cod Boiled.— (So. 149.)
Wash and clean the fish, and rub a little salt in the
inside of it ; (if the weather is very cold, a large cod is
the better for being kept a day) : put plenty of water in
your fish-kettle, so that the fish may be well covered ;
put in a large handful of salt : and when it is dissolved,
put in your fish ; a very small fish will require from
fifteen to twenty minutes, after the water boils, — large
ones about half an hour ; drain it on the fish plate ; dish
it with a garnish of the Roe, Liver, Chitterlings, &c. ;
or large native Oysters, fried a light brown, see (No.
183*), or Smelts (No. 173), Whitings (No. 153), t/te
tail* of the Cod cut in shoes, — or split it — and fry it.
Scolloped Oysters (No. 182), Oyster Sauce (No. 278.)
* The TAIL is so much thinner than the thick part of the body, that, if
boiled together, the former will be boiled too much — before the latter is done
enough — therefore it should be dressed separate, and the best way of cookiuij
it is lo fry it in Slice* or Fillets ; see (No. 151 .)
228 FISH.
Mem. — The Sounds, — the jelly parts about the
Jowl, — the Palate,— and the Tongue, are esteemed
exquisites by piscivorous Epicures — whose long;ing i
Eyes will keep a sharp look-out for a share of their
favourite " Bonne Bouehe;" — the Carver's reputation
depends much on his equitable distribution of them.
Salt Fish Boiled— {"So. 150.)
Salted Fish requires Suakins:, aecurdino to the time it
has been in Salt ; — \\\dX which is hard and dri/, requires
two nijjfhts' soakinc;, changing the water two or three
times; the intermediate day, lay it on a stone floor; —
for BarrelUd Cod, less time will do ; — and for the best
Dodger Bank Split Fish, which has not been more than
a fortnight or three weeks in salt, still less will be
needful.
Put it into plenty of cold water, and let it simmer
gently till it is enough — if the water boils, the Fish will
be tough and thready. For Egg sauce, see (No. 267).
and to boil Red Beetroot (No. V21 ), Parsnips (No. 128),
" Cod generally comes into good season in Octobir, when, if tlie wcither it
cold, it tais as tine as at any lime in the jt.ar: towards tlie latter end of
Janaaiy, and Icbruary, and pan of March, tiity arc mostly poor; but the
latter end of March, April, and May, they are generally particularly line,
havint; shot their spawn, lluy come in fine order. The Dogger- Hank Cod
are the most esteemed, as they generally cut in large fine flakes; the north
country cod, which are caught ott llie Orkney Isles, are generally very stringy,
or what is commonly called woollcy, and sell at a very inferior price, but
are caught in much greater abundance than the Dogger cod. Jhe cod arc all
caught with hook, and brought alive in well-boats to the London markets.
The cod cured on the Dogger Bank is remarkably fine, and seldom cured
above two <.r three weeks befure brought to market; the Barrel Cod i«
commonly cured on the coast of Scotland and Yorkshire. There is a great
deal of inferior cured salt fish brought from Newfoundland and Iceland.
"The Skull of a Dogger Bank cod, is a famous di.-h for an epicure,
cither baked or boiled : and is a good meal for three or four people, and may
be bought for about Ss., — either boil it whole, or cut it into pieces — flour and
dry thein, and then egg and crumb, and fry them, or stew it, (No. 15J5.)
The TAIL of a cod cut in fillets, or slice?, and fried, makc.i a good dish, and
generally to be bought at a very reasonable rale; — if boiled, it is soft and
watery. The ^kull and Tail of a Cod is a favouriteand excellent .Scotch dish,
stewed, and served up with Anchovy or Oyster sauce, with the liquor it
is boiled in, in a Tureen.
" Ling is brought to the London market in the same manner as Cod, bi*ii
very inferior to it, either fresh or sdlt."
FISH. 229
Carrots (No. 129.) Garnish Salt Fisli with the yolks
of Eggs, cut into quarters.
Obs. — Our favourite vegetable accompaniment is a
dish of equal parts of Red Beetroot and Parsnips.
N. B. Salted Fish differs in Quality — quite as much
as it does in Price.
Slices of Cod Boiled.— '(No. 151.)
Half an Hour before you dress them, put them into
cold spring water with some salt in it.
Lay them at the bottom of a fish-kettle, with as
much cold spring water as will cover them, and some
salt ; set it on a quick fire, and when it boils, skim it,
and set it on one side of the fire to boil very gently,
for about ten minutes, according to its size and thick-
ness. Garnish with scraped Horseradish, slices of
Lemon, and a slice of the Liver on one side, and
Chitterling on the other. Oyster sauce (No. 278),
and Plain Butter.
06*.— Slices of God (especially the Tail, split), are
very good, fried like Soles (No. 145), or stewed in
Gravy like Eels (No. 164), or (No. 364, x\o. 2.)
Whitings Fried. — (So. 153.)
Skin* them, presei-ve the Liver, see (No. 228), and
fasten their Tails to their Mouths ; dip them in egg,
then in bread crumbs, and fry them in hot lard, read
(No. 145); — or split them, and fry them like fillets of
Soles (No. 147.)
A three quart stewpan, half full of fat, is the best
utensil to fry Whitings. They will be done enough in
about five minutes - but it will sometimes require a
quarter of an hour to drain the fat from them and
dry them, (if the fat you put them into was not hot
enough), turning them now and then with a Fish Shce.
Obs. — When Whitings are scarce, the Fisimiongers
can skin and truss young Codlings, — so that you can
* The French do not flay them— bat split thein— dip tlieni in flour, and fry
them in hot dripping.
230 FISH.
hardly tell the difference, except that a Codling wears
a Beard, and a JVhifmg does not : — this distinguishing-
mark is sometimes cut off; however, if you turn up his
Jowl, you may see the mark where the Beard was, and
thus discover whether He be a Real Whiting, — or a
Shaved Codling.
Skate Fried.- {^o. 154.)
After you have cleaned the fish, divide it into fillets,
dry them on a clean cloth ; beat the yolk and white of
an egg thoroughly together, dip the fish in this, and
then in fine bread crumbs ; fry it in hot lard or drip-
pings till it is of a delicate brown colour ; lay it on a
hair sieve to drain ; garnish with Crisp Parsley (Ts^o. 318)
— and some like Caper sauce, with an Anchovy in it.
Plaice or Flounders Fried, or Boiled. (No. 155 )
Flounders are perhaps the most difficult fish to fry
very nicely. Clean them well, flour them, and wipe
them with a dry cloth to absorb all the water from
them ; flour or eg^ and bread crumb them, &c. as
directed in (No. 145.)
To Boil Flounders.
Wash and clean them well, cut the black side of
them the same as you do Turbot, then put them into a
fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water and a handful of
salt; when they come to a boil, scum them clean and
let them stand by the side of the fire for five minutes,
and they are ready.
Obs. — Eaten with plain melted butter and a little
salt; — you have the sweet delicate flavour of the
Flounder — which is overpowered by any sauce.
Water -Soz/c/^j/,*— (No. 156.)
Is made with Flounders, Whitings, Gudgeons, or
* One of my Calinary Counsellors says, the heading of this Receipt should
be, " How to dress a good dish of Fish iihile the Cloth is laying." If the
articles are ready, twelve minutes will do it, wiih very little trouble or
expense. For richer stewed I'isb, ste (No. l6i.)
FISH. 231
Eels. These must be quite fresh, and very nicely
cleaned; for what they are boiled in^ is the sauce for
them.
Wash, gut, and trim your Fish, cut them into hand-
some pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with just
as much water as will cover them, with some parsley,
or parsley roots sliced, an onion minced fine, and a
little pepper and salt: (to this some Cooks add some
scraped Horseradish and a Bay leaf;) skim it care-
fully when it boils ; when your fish is done enough
(which it will be in a few minutes), send it up in a
deep dish, lined with bread sippets, and some slices
of bread and butter on a plate.
Obs. Some Cooks thicken the liquor the Fish has
been stewing in w^ith flour and butter — and flavour it
with white wine, Lemon juice, Essence of Anchovy,
and Catsup— and boil down two or three Flounders,
&c. to make a fish broth, to boil the other fish in —
observing, that the Broth cannot be good, unless
the Fish are boiled too much.
Haddock Boiled.— {^0. 157.)
Wash it well, and put it on to boil, as directed in
(No. 149); a Haddock of three pounds w^ill take about
ten minutes after the kettle boils.
Haddocks salted a day or two and eaten with egg
sauce, are a very good article. Haddocks cut in fillets,
fried, eat very fine. Or if small, very well broiled, or
baked, w^ith a pudding in their belly, and some good
gravy.
FindJiorn Haddocks.— (No. 157*.)
Let the Fish be well cleaned and laid in Salt for
two hours, let the water drain from them, and then
wet them with the Pyrolygncous acid, — they may be
split or not, — they are then to be hung in a dry
situation for a day or two, or a week or two, if you
please : — when broiled, they have all the flavour of
232 FISH.
the Findhorn Haddock, and will keep sweet for a long
time.
The Pyroligneoiis acid, apph"ed in the same way to
Beef or Mutton, gives the fine smoke flavour, and may
be kept for a considerabK^ length of time.
Scotch -nay of dressing Haddocks. — A haddock is quite
like a different fish in London and in Edinburgh,
which arises chiefly from the manner in which they are
treated ; a haddock should never appear at table with
its head and skin on. For boiling ,they are ail the better
for lying a night in salt; of course they do not take so
long to boil without the skin, and require to be well
skimmed to preserve the colour. — After lying in salt
for a night, if you hang them up for a day or two, they
arc very 2;ood broiled and served with cold butter. For
frying, they should be split and boned very carefully,
and divided into convenient pieces if too large to halve
mcrchi ; Q^<^ and crumb them, and fry in a good deal of
lard ; they resemble soles when dressed in this manner.
There is another very delicate mode of dressing them;
you split the fish, rub it well with butter, and do it be-
fore the fire in the Dutch-oven.
To stew Cod's Sculi Saks, Carp, Trout, Perch, Eel,
or Flounder.— (So. 158.);— See also (So. 164.)
When the Fish has been properly washed, lay it in a
stewpan, with half a pint of Claret or Port wine, and a
quart of good gravy, — a large onion, a dozen berries
of black pepper, the same of allspice, and a few cloves,
or a bit of mace ; cover the fish kettle close, and let it
stew gently for ten or twenty minutes, according to the
thickness of the fish : take the fish up, lay it on a hot
dish, cover it up, and thicken the liquor that it was
stewed in with a little flour, and season it with Pepper,
Salt, F.ssence of Anchovy, Mushroom Catsup, and a
little Chili Vinegar ; when it has boiled ten minutes,
strain it through a tammis, and pour it over the fish ;
FISH. 233
if there is more sauce than the dish will hold, send the
rest up in a boat.
The Rive?' Trout comes into season in April, and
continues till July ; it is a very delicious fish : those
caught near Uxbridge come to town quite alive.
The Eels and Perch from the same water, are very
fine.
Obs. — These fish are very nice plain boiled, with
(No. 261), or (No. 264), for sauce; some Cooks dredge
them with flour, and fry them a light brown before they
put them on to stew, — and stuff them with (No. 374),
or some of the stuffings following.
To Dress them Maigre.
Put the Fish into a stewpan, with a large Onion,
four Cloves, fifteen berries of Allspice, and the same
black pepper — just cover them with boiling water, set
it where they will simmer gently for ten or twenty mi-
nutes, according to the size of the Fish ; strain off the
liquor in another stewpan, leaving the Fish to keep
warm till the Sauce is ready.
Rub together on a plate as much fiour and butter
as will make the Sauce as thick as a double Cream.
Each Pint of Sauce, season with a glass of Wine, half
as much Mushroom Catsup, a teaspoonful of Essence
of Anchovy, and a few grains of Cayenne; let it boil
a few minutes, put the Fish on a deep dish, strain the
Gravy over it ; garnish it with Sippets of Bread toasted
or fried (No. 319.)
N. B, The Editor has paid particular attention to
the above Receipt — and also to (No. 224), which
Catholics, and t/wse whose Religious tenets do not allow
them to eat Meat on Maigre Days, will find a very satis-
factory substitute for the Meat Gravy Soup (No. 200.)
For Sauce for Maigre Dishes, see (Nos. 225,
305, and 364, No. 2.)
Obs. — Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), and Onions
(No. 402), supply the place of Meat, better than any
thing ; if you have not these, Wine — Spice (No. 457),—
234 Fisa.
Curry Powder (No. 455), Aromatic Roots and Herbs,—
Anchovy and Soy, — or Oyster Catsup (No. 441,)
variously combined, and thickened with flour and
butter, are convenient substitutes.
J^Jaigre Fish Pies.
Salt Fish Pie. — The thickest part must be cposen,
and put in cold water to soak the night before wanted ;
then boil it well, take it up, take away the bones and
skin, and if it is good fish it will be in fine layers ; set
it on a fish drainer to get cold : in the mean time boil
four eggs hard, peel and slice them very thin, the same
quantity of onion sliced thin, line the bottom of a Pie dish
with Fish force-meat, (No. 383), or a layer of potatoes
sliced thin, — then a layer of onions, then cf fish, and
of eggs, and so on till the dish is full ; season each layer
with a little pepper, — then m.ix a teaspoonful of made
mustard, the same of Essence of Anchovy, a little
Mushroom Catsup in a gill of water, put it in the
dish, then put on the top an ounce of fresh butter broke
in bits, cover it with puff paste, and bake it one hour.
Fresh Cod may be done in the 'ozmt way by adding
a little salt.
All Fish for making Pies, whether Soles, Flounders,
Herrings, Salmon, Lobster, Eels, Trout, Tench, &c.,
should be dressed first, — this is the most Economical way
for Catholic families, as what is boiled one day,
will make excellent Pies, or Patties, the next;
if you intend it for Pies, take the skin off, and the
bones out, — lay your Salmon, Soles, Turbot, or Cod-
fish in layers, and season each layer with equal quan-
tities of pepper, allspice, mace, and salt, till the dish is
full, — save a little of the liquor that the fish was
boiled in, set it on the fire with the bones and skin of
the fish ; boil it a quarter of an hour, then strain it
through a sieve, let it settle, and pour it in the dish,
cover it with puff paste, bake it about an hour and
a quarter. Shrimps, prawns, or oysters added, will
improve the above; if for Patties, they must be
FISH. 235
fcut in small pieces, and dressed in a Beshameli sauce,
(No. 364.)
Cod Sounds for a pie should be soaked at the least
twenty-four hours, then well washed, and put on a cloth
to dry, — put in a stew-pan two ounces of fresh butter,
with four ounces of sliced onions, fry them of a nice
brown, then-put in a small table-spoonful of flour, and add
half a pint of boiling water; when smooth, put m about
ten Cod-sounds, and season them with a little pepper,
a glass of white wine, a teaspoonful of Essence of An-
chovy, the juice of half a lemon ; stir it well together, put
it in a pie-dish, cover it with paste, and bake it one hour.
Perch, lloacJi, Dace, Gudgeons, SfC. Fried. — (No. 159.)
Wash the Fish well, — wipe them on a dry cloth, —
flour them lightly all over, and fry them ten minutes,
see (No. 145), in hot lard or drippings ; — lay them
on a hair sieve to drain ; — send them up on a hot
dish, garnished v/ith sprigs of green parsley. Anchovy
sauce (No. 270), and (No. 433.)
Verch Boikd^-Qno. 160.)
Clean them carefullV, and put them in a fish-kettle,
with as much cold spring w^ater as will cover them,
with a handful of salt ; set them on a quick fire till
they boil; when they boil, set them on one side to boil
gently for about ten minutes, according to their size.
Salmon, Herrings, Sprats, Mackarel, Scc. Pickled.
(No. 161.)
Cut the Fish into proper pieces, do not take off the
scales — make a brine strong enough to bear an Egg,
in which boil the Fish — it m.ust be boiled in only
just liquor enough to cover it — do not overboil it.
\yhen the fish is boiled, lay it slantingly to drain off
all the liquor — when cold, pack it close in the kits,
and fill them up v/ith equal parts of the liquor the
Salmon was boiled in (having first well skimmed it),
and best Vinegar, (No. 24) ; let them rest for a day, fill
236
FISH.
up again, striking the sides of the kit with a Cooper's
Adze, until the kit will receive no more — then head
them down as close as possible.
Obs. — This is in the finest condition when fresh.
Salmon is most plentiful about Midsummer; the
season for it, is from February to September. Some
sprigs 0^ fresh gathered young Fennel — are the accom-
paniments.
N. B. The three indispensable marks of the goodness
o{ Pickled Salmon, are, 1st, — The brightness of the
scales, and their sticking fast to the skin ; 2dly, The
firmness of the flesh ; and thirdly, its fine pale red rose
colour; — without these it is not fit to eat, and was
either stale before it was pickled, or has been kept too
long after.
The above was given us as the actual practice of
those who pickle it for the London market.
N.B. Pickled Salmon, warined by steam, or in its
pickle liquor, is a favourite dish at Newcastle.
Salmon* Boiled. — (No. l62.)
Put on a fish kettle, with spring water enough to well
cover the Salmon you are going to dress, or the Salmon
• Salmon. The earliest that conies in season to the Lonoon market, is
brought from the Severn, and begins to come into season the beginning of
November, but very few so early, perhaps not above one in fifty, as many of
them will not shoot their spawn till January, or after, and then continue in
season till October, when they begin to get very thin and poor. The prin-
cipal supply of salmon is from different parts of Scotland, packed in ice, and
brought by water : if the vessels have a fair wind, they will be in London in
three days ; but it frequently happens that they are at sea perhaps a fortnight,
when the greater part of the fish is perished, and has, for a year or two past,
sold as low as two pence per pound, and up to as much as eighteen pence per
pound at the same time, owing to its different degrees of goodness. This ac-
counts for the very low prices at which the itinerant fishmongers cry their
" delicate Salmon," " dainty fresh Salmon," and " Live Cod," " New
Mackarel," &c. &c.
" Salmon Gwilts, or Salmon Peel, are the small salmon which come from
about five or six pounds to ten pounds, are very good fish, and make hand-
some dishes of fish, sent to table crooked in the form of an S.
" Beruick Trout are a distinct fish from the gwilts, and are caught in
the River Tweed, and dressed in the same manner as the gwilt.
" Calvered Salmon is the salmon caught in the Thames, and cut into slices
alive ; and some few salmon are brought from Oxford to London alive, and
ctit. A few slices make a handsome, genteel dish, but is generally very
expensive : sometimes 15s. per pound."
FISH. ' 237
will neither look nor taste well : (boil the Liver in a
separate saucepan.) When the water boils, put in a
handful of salt, take off the scum as soon as it rises,
have the fish well washed, put it in, and if it is thick,
let it boil very gently about a quarter of an hour to a
pound of fish ; but practice only can perfect the Cook
in dressing Salmon ; — a quarter of a split Salmon will
take almost as long boiling as half a one. Lobster
Sauce (No. 284.)
Olis. — The thinnest part of the Fish, is the fattest,
and if vou have a " Grand Gourmand'' at table, ask him
if he is for Thick or Thin.
T/ie Thames Salmon is preferred in the London
Market, and some Epicures pretend to be able to
distinguish by the taste, in which reach of the River
it was caught ! ! !
N.B. If you haie any left, put it into a pie-dish, and
cover it with an equal portion of Vinegar and Pump-
water, and a little salt, it will be ready in three days.
Fresh Salmon Broiled. — (No. 163.)
Clean the salmon well, and cut it into slices about
an inch and a half thick ; dry it thoroughly in a clean
cloth, rub it over with sweet oil, or thick melted butter,
and sprinkle a little salt over it ; put your gridiron over
a clear fire, at some distance ; when it is hot, wipe it
clean, rub it with sweet oil or lard ; lay the salmon on,
and when it is done on one side, turn it gently and
broil the other. Anchovy sauce, &c.
Obs. — An oven does them best.
Soles or Eels"^, SfC. SfC. stewed Wiggy's way. —
(No. 164.)
Take two pounds of fine silverf Eels; : — the best are
* Small Pish and the Fillets of Whiting, Turbots, Brills, &c. and slices of
Cod, or the head or Tail of it, are excellent dressed the san'ie way.
t The Yellotc Eels taste muddy : the Whiteness of the belly of the fish, is
not the only mark to know the best ; the right colour of the back is a very
bright coppery hue ; the Olive coloured are inferior ; and those tending to a
Sreen are worse.
238 FISH.
those that are rather more than a half-crown piece in
circumference, quite fresh, full of life, and as " brisk as
an Eel •" such as have been kept out of water till they
can scarce stir, are good for nothing. Gut them, rub
them with salt till the slime is cleaned from them, wash
them in several different waters, and divide them into
pieces about four inches long.
Some Cooks, after skinning them, dredge them with
a little flour, wipe them dry, and then a^'^ and crumb
them, and fry them in drippings till they are brown,
and lay them to dry on a hair sieve.
Have ready a quart of good Beef Gravy (No. 329);
it must be cold when you put the Eels into it, set them
on a slow fire to simmer very gently for about a quarter
of an hour, according to the size of the eels; — watch
them that they are not done too much ; — take them
carefully out of the stewpan with a fish slice, so as not
to tear their coats, and lay them on a dish about two
inches deep.
Or, if /o;- ]S[a'igre Dai/s, when you have skinned your
Eels, throw the skins into salt and water, wash them
well, and then put them into a stewpan with a quart of
water, two onions, with two cloves stuck in each, and
one blade of mace ; let it boil twenty minutes, and
strain it through a sieve in a basin.
Make the Sauce about as thick as cream, by mix-
ing a little flour ^vith it; put in also two table-
spoonsful of Port wine, and one of Mushroom Cat-
sup, or Cavice; stir it into the sauce by degrees,
give it a boil, and strain it to the fish through a
sieve.
N.B. If Mushroom sauce (Nos. 225, 305, or 333),
or White Sauce (No. 364, No. 2), be used instead of
Eeef Gravy, this will be one of the most relishing Maigre
dishes we know\
Obs. — To kill Eels insfantlij, without the horrid tor-
ture of cutting and skinning them alive, pierce the spinal
marrow, close to the back part of the skull, with a sharp
FISH. 239
pointed skewer: if this be done in the right place, all
motion will instantly cease. The humane Executioner
does certain criminals the favour to hang them, before
he breaks them on the wheel.
To/n/Ee/^. — (No. 165.)
Skin and gut them, and wash them well in cold
water, cut them in pieces four inches long, season them
with pepper and salt, beat an eg^ well on a plate, dip
them in the egg, and then in fine bread crumbs ; fry
them in fresh clean lard, drain them well from the fat ;
Garnish v/ith crisp parsley ; for Sauce, plain and melted
butter, sharpened with lemon juice, or Parsley and
Butter.
Spitc/icoclied Eels. — (No. 166.)
This the French Cooks call the English way of
dressing Eels.
Take two middling sized silver eels, leave the skin
on, scour them with salt, and wash them, cut off the
heads, slit them on the belly side, and take out the
bone and guts, and w^ash and wipe them nicely, then
cut them into pieces about three inches long, and wipe
them quite dry, put two ounces of butter into a stewpan
with a little minced parsley, thyme, sage, pepper, and
salt, and a vei-y little chopped shallot ; set the stew-
pan over the fire ; when the butter is melted, stir the
ingredients together, and take it off the fire, mix the
yolks of two eggs with them, and dip the eel in, a
piece at a time, and then roll them in bread crumbs,
making as much stick to them as you can; then rub a
gridiron with a bit of suet, set it high over a very clear
fire, and broil your eels of a fine crisp brown : dish
them with crisp parsley, and send up plain butter in a
boat, and anchovy and butter.
Obs.~^ye like them better with the Skin off; it is
very apt to offend delicate stomachs.
240 FISH.
Mackarel Boiled, — (So. 167.)
This Fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the Sea,
and the fresher it is the better.
1J\is/i and clean t/icni thornughhi, (the fishmongers
seldom do this sufficiently), put them into cold water
with a iiandful of salt in it; let them rather simmer,
than boil ; a small mackarel will be enough in about a
quarter of an hour : when the Eye starts and the Tail
splits, — they are done; do not let them stand in the
water a moment after; they are so delicate that the
heat of the water will break them.
Tliis fisii in London is rarely fresh enough to appear
at table in perfection; and either the Mackarel is boiled
too much, or the Rue' too little. The best way is to
open a slit opposite the middle of the roe, you can then
clean it properly; this will allow the water access, and
the roc w ill then be done as soon as the fish, which it
seldom is otherwise ; some sagacious gour/nands insist
upon it they must be taken out and boiled separately.
For sauce, see (Nos. 263, 265, and 266), and you may
garnish them with pats of minced Fennel.
N.B. The common notion is, that Mackarel are in
best condition when fullest of Roe; — however, the Fish
at that time is only valuable for its Roe, — the Meat of
it has scarcely any flavour.
Mackarel generally make their appearance off the
Land's End about the beginning of April, and as the
weather gets warm, they gradually come round the
coast, and generally arrive oft' Brighton about May,
and continue for some months, until they begin to
shoot their spawn.
After they have let go their Roes, they are called
shotten mackarel, and are not worth catching, the Roe,
which was all that was good of them, being gone.
• The Roe of the Male fish is soft like the brains of a Calf, — that of the
Fem&le is fuil of small eggs, and called hard Hot.
FISH. 241
It is in the early season, when they have least Roe, that
the Jiesh of this Fish is in highest perfeetion. There
is also an after-season, when a few fine large Mankarel
are taken, {i. e. during the Herring season, about
October), which some piscivorous Epicures are very
partial to, — these fish having had time to fatten and
recover their Health, are full of high flavour, and their
flesh is firm and juicy: they are commonly called Silver
Mackorel, from their beautiful appearance, their colour
being almost as bright when boiled, as it was the
moment they were caught.
Mackorel Broiled.— -(No. 169.)
Clean a fine large mackarel, wnpe it on a dry cloth,
and cut a long slit down the back ; lay it on a clean
gridiron, over a very clear slow fire; when it is done
on one side turn it; be careful that it does not burn;
send it up with Fennel sauce (No. 265) ; mix well
together a little finely minced Fennel and Parsley,
seasoned with a little Pepper and Salt, a bit of fresh
butter, and when the Zvlackarel are ready for the table,
put some of this into each fish.
Mackarel Baked.— (So. 170.)
Cut off their heads, open them, and take out the
roes, and clean them thoroughly; rub them on the
inside with a little pepper and salt, put the roes in
again, season them (with a mixture of powdered allspice,
black pepper and salt, well rubbed together), and lay
them close in a baking pan, cover them with equal
quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie them down
with strong white paper doubled, and bake them for an
hour in a slow oven. They will keep for a fortmght.
Pickled Mackarel, Herrings, or Sprats. — (No. 171.)
Procure them as fresh as possible, split them open,
take off the heads, and trim off all the thin part of the
M
242 FISH.
belly, put them into salt and water for one hour, drain
and wipe your fish, and put them into jars or casks,
with the following preparation, which is enough for
three dozen Mackarel. Take salt and bay salt, one
pound each, saltpetre and lump sugar, two ounces
each ; grind and pound the salt, &c. well together, put
the fish into jars or casks, with a layer of the preparation
at the bottom, then a layer of mackarel with the skin
side downwards, so continue alternately till the cask
or jar is full; press it down and cover it close. In
about three months they will be fit for use.
Sprats Broi/€d. — {No. \70.*) — Fried, see (No. 173.)
If you have not a Sprat Gridiron, get a piece of
pointed iron wire as thick as packiiiread, and as long
as your gridiron is broad ; run this through the heads
of your sprats, sprinkle a little flour and salt over
them, — put your gridiron over a clear quick fire, turn
them in about a couple of minutes ; when the other side
is brown, draw out the wire and send up the fish with
melted butter in a cup.
Oh.s. — That Sprats ar» young Herrings, is evident
by their anatomy, in which there is no perceptible
difference. They appear very soon after the Herrings
are gone, and seem to be the spawn just vivified.
Sprats Steu-ef/.—iSo. 170.**)
Wash and dry your Sprats, and lay them as level as
you can in a stew-pan, and between every layer of
Sprats put three peppercorns, and as many allspice v.'ith
a few grains of salt; barely cover thorn with vinegar,
and stew them one hour over a slow fire ; they must not
boil; a bay leaf is sometimes added. Herrings or
Mackarel may be stewed the same way.
To Fri/ Sprats, see (No. 173.)
Herrings Broiled. —(No. 171.')
Wash them well, then dry them with a cloth, dust
FISH.
243
them with flour, and broil them over a slow fire till they
are well done. Send up melted butter in a boat.
Obs. — For a particular account of Herrings, see
S'oLAS Dodd's Natural Hist, of Herrings, in 178 pages
8vo. 1752.
Red Herrings, a?id other Dried Fish — (No. 172.)
" Should be cooked in the same manner now prac-
tised by the Poor in Scotland. They soak them in
water until they become pretty fresh ; they are then hung
up in the Sun and Wind, on a stick through their Eyes,
to dry ; and then boiled or broiled. In this way, they
eat almost as well as if they were new caught." — See
the Hon. John Cochrane's Seaman's Guide, Svo.
1797, p. 34.
" Scotch Haddocks should be soaked all night. You
may boil or broil them ; if you broil, split them in two.
'* All the different sorts of Dried Fish, except Stock
Fish, — are salted, dried in the Sun, in prepared kilns,
or by the smoke of wood fires ; and require to be
softened and freshened, in proportion to their bulk,
nature or dryness ; the very dry sort, as Cod, Whiting,
&c. should be steeped in lukewarm water, kept as near
as possi!)le to an equal degree of heat. The larger Fish
should be steeped twelve hours: the smaller about
two ; after which they should be taken out and hung
up by the tails until they are dressed. The reason for
hanging them up is that they soften equally as in the
steeping, without extracting too much of the relish,
which would render them insipid. When thus pre-
pared, the small Fish, as Whiting, Tusk, &c. should be
floured and laid on the gridiron ; and when a little
hardened on one side, must be turned and basted with
sweet oil upon a feather ; and when basted on both
sides, and well heated through, taken up. A clear
charcoal fire is the best for cooking them, and the Fish
should be kept at a good distance to broil gradually.
When they are enough they will swell a little in the
M 2
2.44 nsii.
basting, and you must not let them fall again. If
boik'l, as the larger fish generally are, they should be
kept just simmering over an equal fire, in which way
half an hour will do the largest fish, and five minutes
the smallest.
" Dried Siilnwn, though a large fish, docs not require
more steeping than a Whiting ; and when laid on the
gridiron should be moderately peppered. To ILrring
and to all kinds of broiled Salt Fish, sweet oil is the
best basting.''
The above is from Macdonald's I,ondon Farni/i/
Cook, 8vo. 1808, p. 139.
SmcltSy Sprats, or other small Fishjrud. — (Xo. 173.)
Clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fry them
plain, or beat an q^^ on a plate, dip them in it, and
then in very fine bread crumbs that have been rubbed
though a sieve; the smaller the Fish, the finer should
be the bread crumbs, — Biscuit Powder is still better ;
fry them in plenty of clean lard, or drippings; as soon
as the lard boils and is still, put in the fish, — as soon
as they arc delicately browned, they are done ; this will
hardly take two minutes. Drain them on a hair sieve,
placed before the fire, turning tl\em till quite dry.
Obs.- Head (No. 145.)
" Smelts are allowed to be caught in the Thames,
on the first of November, and continue till May. The
Thames smelts; are the best and sweetest for two rea-
sons ; they are fresher and richer, than any other yon
can get : they catch them much more plentiful and
larger in Lancashire and Norfolk ; but not so good : a
great many are brought to town from Norfolk, but
barely come good, as they are a fish should always be
eaten fresh ; indeed all river Fisii should be eaton
fresh, except Salmon, which, unless crimped, eats better
the second or tliird day ; but all Thames fish, particu-
iarly, should be eaten very fresh ; no fish eats so bad
kept."'
FISH. 245
Potted Praiins, Shrimps, or Craii-Jish. — (No. 175.)
Boil them in water with plenty of Salt in it. When
you have picked them, powder them with a little beaten
mace, or grated nutmeg, or allspice, and pepper and
salt ; add a little cold butter, and pound all well together
in a marble mortar till of the consistence of paste.
Put it into pots covered with clarified butter, and cover
them over with wetted bladder.
Lobster. — {^o. 176.)
Buy these Alke, — the Lobster ^lerchants sometimes
keep them till they are starved, before they boil them ;
they are then watery, and have not half their flavour.
Choose those that (as an old Cook says, are " Heaiy
and Lirehi," and) are full of motion, which is the Index
of their freshness.
Those of the middle size are the best. Never fake
them when the shell is incrusted, which is a sign they are
old. The Male Lobster is preferred to Eat, and the
Female (on account of the Eggs) to make Sauce of.
The Hen Lobster is distinguished by having a broader
Tail than the male, and less Claws.
• Set on a pot, with water salted in the proportion of
;a tablespoonful of salt to a quart of water : when the
water boils put it in, and keep it boiling briskly from half
an hour to an hour, according to its size ; v/ipe all the
scum off it, and rub the shell v/ith a very little butter or
sweet oil ; break off the great claws, crack them care-
fully in each joint, so that they may not be shattered,
and yet come to pieces easily, cut the tail dov/n the
middle, and send up the body whole. For Sauce
(No. 285.) To pot Lobster (No. 178.)
\* These Fish come in about April, and continue plen-
tiful till the Oyster season returns ; after that time they
begin to spawn, and seldom open solid.
Crab. — 0^0. 177.)
The above observations apply to crabs, which should
246
FISH.
neither be too small nor too lars^e. The best size are
those which measiire about eight inches across the
shoulders.
*^* (Jrab.s make t/wir appearance and disappearance about
the same time as Lobsters. T/te Cromer Crabs are most
esteemed^ but numbers are brought from the Isle of IVight.
Potted Lub»teror Crab.— (No. 178.)
This must be made with fine Hen Lobsters when full
of spawn; boil them thorougiily, see (No. 176); when
cold, pick out all the solid meat, and pound it in a
mortar, it is usual to add by degrees (a very little) finely
pounded mace, black or Cayenne pepper, salt, and, while
pouudiM;r, a little butter. When the whole is well
mixed, and beat to the consistence of paste, press it
down hard in a preserving-pot, pour clarified butter
over it, and cover it with wetted bladder.
Obs. — Some put Lobster without pounding it, and only
cut it or ])ull it into such pieces as if it was prepared
for sauce, and mince it with the spawn and soft parts
and seasoning, and jDress it together as close as possible ;
in packing it place the coral and spawn, Sec. in layers,
so that it may look regular and handsome when cut out.
If you intend it as store, (see N. B. to (No. 284) to
make sauce with,) this is the best way to do it — but if
for Sandwiches, &c. the first is the best, and will keep
much longer.
Dressed or Buttf.ued Lobstkrs and Crabs are
favourite ornamental dishes w4th those who deck their
table merely to please the Eye. Our apology for not
giving such Receipts will be found in Obs. to (No. 322.)
OYSTERS*.— (No. 18L)
The common t Colchester and Feversham oysters
• Oyster Sauce (So. 278), Preoerved Oysters (No. 280.)
+ Those are called Com/n<m Oysters which are picked up ou the French
coast, and laid in the Colchisier beds.
These are uever 80 fine and fat a» the Natives, and seldom recover the
FISH. 247
are brought to market on the 5th of August; — the
Milton, or as they are commonly called, the melting
Nathes *, do not come in till the beginning of October,
continue in season till the 12th of May, and approach
the meridian of their perfection about Christmas.
Some piscivorous Gourmands think that Oysters are
not best when quite fresh from their beds, and that
their flavour is too brackish and harsh, and is much
ameliorated by giving them a feed.
To FfiEDf Oysters. — Cover them with clean water,
with a pint of salt to about two gallons ; (nothing else,
no oatmeal, flour, nor any other trumpery); this will
cleanse them from the mud and sand, &c. of the bed ;
after they have lain in it twelve hours, change it for
fresh salt and water, and in twelve hours more they
will be in prime order for the Mouth, and remain so two
or three days : — at the time of high water, you may see
them open their shells, in expectation of receiving their
usual food. This process of feeding oysters, is only
employed when a great many come up together.
The REAL Colchester, or Pyfleet Barrelled
Oysters, that are packed at the beds, are better without
being put in water ; they are carefully and tightly
packed, and must not be disturbed till wanted for table :
these, in moderate weather, will keep good for a week
or ten days.
If an Oyster opens his mouth in the barrel, he dies
immediately.
To preserve the lives of Barrelled Oysters, put a heavy
v/eight on the wooden top of the barrel, which is to be
shock their feelings receive, from being transported from their native place ; —
delicate little Creatures, they arc as exquisi'te in their own taste, as they are to
Ihe taste of others! !
• Oysters are thus called, that are born, as well as bred and fed in this
country, and are mostly spit in the Burnham and Mersey rivers ; they do not
come to their finest condition till they are near four years old.
t \ViL,L Rabisha, in his Receipt to " broil oysters," (set his Cookery,
pa^e 144), directs, that while they are undergoing this operation, they should
ha fed with white wine and grated bread.
248
FISH.
placed on the surface of the oysters. This is to be
effected by removing the first hoop, the staves will then
spread and stand erect, making a wide openinc; for the
head of the barrel to fall down closely on the remaining
fish, keeping: them close together.
Mem. — The Oysters which are commonly sold as
Barrelled Oysters, are merely the smallest natives, se-
lected from the stock, and put into the Tub when
ordered ; and instead of being of superior quality, are
often very inferior. — To immature Animals, there' is the
same objection, as to unripe Vegetables.
Ohs. — Common people are indifferent ^nhowl the tnonner
of opening Ousters, and the time of eating them after
they are opened ; nothing, however, is more important,
in the enlightened eyes of the experienced Oyster
eater.
Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative irr
its utmost perfection, must eat it the moment it is opened^
.with its own gravy in the under shell : — if not Eaten
•ahile Absohtehj Aine, its flavour and spirit are lost.
The true lover of an Oyster, will have some regard
for the feelin^-s of his little favourite, and will never
abandon it to the mercy of a bungling operator, — but
will open it himself, and contrive to detach the Fish
from the shell so dexterously, that the Oyster is hardly
conscious he has been ejected from his Lodging, till he
feels the teeth of the piscivorous Gourmand tickling him
to Death.
• N. B. Fish is less nutritious than Flesh: as a proof,
when the trainer of Newmarket wishes to uaste a Jockey,
jie is not allowed Meat, not even Pudding, if Fish can
be had. The white kinds of Fish, Turbots, Soles,
Whiting, Cod, Haddock, Flounders, Smelts, &c. are
less nutritious than the oib, fat Fish, such as Eels,
Salmon, Herrings, Sprats, &c. ; the latter, however, are
more difficult to digest, and often disturb weak sto-
machs, . ,0 that they are obliged to call in the assistance
of Cayenne, Cogniac, &c.
FISH. 249
-Shell Fish, have long held a high rank in the
catalogue of easily digestible and speedily restorative
foods ; of these, the Oyster certainly deserves the best
character, — but, we think it has acquired not a little
more reputation for these qualities than it deserves ;
a well dressed Chop * or Steak, see (No. 94), will invi-
gorate the Heart in a much higher ratio ; — to recruit
the Animal Spirits and support strength, there is nothing
equal to Animal food, — when kept till properly tender,
none will give so little trouble to the Digestive organs,
and so much substantial excitement to the Constitution.
See note under (No. 185. *)
We could easily say as much in praise of Mutton, as
Mr . Ritson has against it, in his " Essay on Abstinence
from Animal Food as a Moral Duty,'' 8vo. London,
1802, page 102. He says, " The Pagan Priests were
the first eaters of Animal Food; it corrupted their taste,
and so excited them to Gluttony, that when they had
eaten the same thing repeatedly, their htiurims Appetites
called for Variety. — He who had devoured the Sheep
longed to masticate the Shepherd ! ! !
" Nature seems to have provided other Animals for
the food of man, from the astonishing increase of those
which instinct points out to him as peculiarly desirable
for that purpose. For instance ; so quick is the produce
of Pigeons, that in the space of four years 14,760
may come from a single pair ; and in the like period
1,274,840 from a couple of rabbits, — this is nothing
to the millions of eggs in the melt of a cod fish."
Scolloped Oysters. — (No. 182.) — A good way to
warm up any cold Fish.
Stew the Oysters slowly in their own liquor for tvro
• " Animal food, being composed of the most nutritious parts of tlie food
on which the Animal lived, and having already been digested by the proper
organs of an animal, requires only solution and mixture, whereas Vegetable
food must be converted into a substance of an animal nature, by the proper
action of our own Viscera, and consequently requires more labour of the
Stomach, and other Digestive Organs."
Burton on the Non naturals, page 213.
M 5
250 FISH.
or three minutes, — take them out with a spoon, and
beard them, and skim the Hquor, — put a bit of butter
into a stewpan, — and when it is melted, add as much
line bread crumbs as will dry it up, tlien put to it the
Oyster liquor, and i^ive it a boil up, — put the Oysters
into Scollop shells that you have buttered, and strewed
with bread crumbs, — then a layer of Oysters, — then
of bread crumbs, and then some more Oysters, — moisten
it with the Oyster liquor, cover them with bread
cruml)s, — put about half a dozen little bits of butter
on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven.
Obs. — Essence of Anchovy, Catsup, Cayenne, unrated
I^mon Peel, Mace, and other Spices, &c. are added by
those who prefer jnquuncc to the j^enuine Havour of the
Oyster.
Cold Fish may be re-dressed the same way.
N. B. Small Scollop shells, or Saucers that hold
about half a dozen Oysters, are the most convenient.
SUned Oy.stcrs.—Qso. 182 *.)
Large Oysters will da for stewing, and by some are
preferred ; but we love the plump, juicy natives. Stew
a couple of dozen of these in their own liquor; —
when they are coming to a boil, skim well, tnke them
up and beard them ; strain the liquor through a
tammis sieve, and lay the oysters on a dish. Put an
ounce of butter into a stewpan, — when it is melted, put
to it as much flour as will dry it up, the liquor of the
Oysters, and three tablespoonsful of milk or cream,
and a litile white pepper and salt ; to this some
Cooks add a little Catsup or finely chopped Parsley,
grated Lemon Peel, and juice ; let it boil up for a
couple of minutes, till it is smooth, then take it ofF the
fire, put in the Oysters, and let them get warm ; (they
must not themselves be boiled, or they will become
hard ;) line the bottom and sides of a hash-dish with
bread sippets, and pour your ovsters and sauce into it.
See Obs. to Receipt (No. 278.)"
FISH. 251
Oysters Fried. — {^o. 183.)
The largest and finest Oysters are to be chosen for
this purpose ; simmer them in their own liquor for a
couple of minutes, — take them out and lay them on a
cloth to drain, — beard them and then flour them, —
egg and bread-crumb them, — put them into boiling
fat, and fry them a delicate brown.
Obs. — A tery nice garnish for Made Dishes, — Steived
Rump Steaks, — boiled or fried Fish, S^^c.
THE
COOK^S ORACLE,
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Btef Broth''. — {^o. 185.)
Wash a Leg or a Shin of Beef very clean, crack the
bone in two or three places, (this you should desire
the Butcher to do for you,) add thereto any trimmings
you have of Meat, Game, or Poultry, {i. e. heads, necks,
gizzards, feet, &c.) and cover them ^vith cold water, —
watch and stir it up well from the bottom, and t/w
iuoment it begins to simmer , skim it carefully — your Broth
must be perfectly clear and limpid ; — 07i this, depends
the goodness of the Soups, Sauces, and Gravies, ofivhich
it is the Basis : — then add some cold water, to make
the remaining scum rise, and skim it again ; — when
the scum has done rising, and the surface of the Broth
is quite clear, put in one moderate-sized Carrot, a head
of Celery, two Turnips, and two Onions, — it should
not have any taste of sweet herbs, spice, or garlic,
&c. — either of these flavours can easily be added im-
mediately after, if desired, by (Nos. 420, 421, 402,
&c.) — cover it close, — set it by the side of the fire, —
and let it simmer very gently (so as not to waste the
Broth) for four or five hours, or more, according to the
v/eight of the Meat : — strain it through a sieve into a
clean and dry stone pan, and set it in the coldest place
you have.
Obs. — This is the foundation for all sorts of Soups
and Sauces, brown or white.
• In culinary technicals, is called first stoce, or long Broth — in tkc
French Kitchen. " Le Grand Bouillon,"
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 253
- Stew no longer than the Meat is thoroughhj done to eat,
•and you will obtain excellent Broth, without depriving
the Meat of its nutritious succulence : — to boil it to
rag's, as is the common practice, will not enrich your
Broths, but make them thick and grouty.
The Meat*, when gently stewed for only four or five
hours till it is just tender, remains abundantly sapid
and nourishing, and will afford a relishing and whole-
some meal for half a dozen people ; — • or make Potted
Beef, (No. 503) : — or when you have strained off the
Broth, — cover the meat again with water, and let it
go on boiling for four hours longer, and make what
some Cooks call " Second Stock," — it will produce
some very good Glaze, or Portable Soup ; see (No.
252) and the Ohs. thereon.
'EeefGrary\.-(^o. 186.)
Cover the bottom of a Stewpan, that is well tinned
and quite clean, v/ith a slice of good Ham, or lean
Bacon, four or five pounds of Gravy Beef cut into half-
pound pieces, a Carrot, an Onion with tvro Cloves
stuck in it, and a head cf Celery ; put a pint of Broth
or water to it, cover it close, and set it over a moderate
fire till the water is reduced to as little as will just save
ths ingredients from burning; then turn it all about,
and let it brown shghtly and equally all over ; — then
put in three quarts of boiling water J when it boils up,
* A dog was fed on the richest Broth, yet could not be kept alive ; while
another, wliich liad only the Meat boiled to a Chip, (Had water,) throve very
well. This shows the folly of attemptii'i; to nourish Men by Concentrated
Soups, Jellies, &c. — Sinclair, Code of Health, p. 356.
If this experiment be accurate, what becomes of the theoretic virions of
those who have written abuut noiiiishing Broths, &c.? — The best test cfthe
restorative quality of Food, is a small quantity of it satisfying hun-^er, the
strength of the pulse after it, and the length of time which elapses before
appetite returns again. According to this rule, we give oar verdict in favour
of VNo. 19 or 2i.) See N. B. to (No. 181.)
This subject is fully discussed in " The Art of Invigorating and
Prolosgixg Life, by Diet, &c." published by Hurst and Co., No. 90,
Cheapside, London; and Constable and Co., Edinburgh,
t Called in some Cookery Books, " Second Stock," — in the French
Kitchen, " Jus de Bceuf,"
; A great deal of care is to be taken to watch the time of putting in the
254 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
skim it carefully, and wipe oft' with a clean cloth what
sticks round the edg:e and inside of the stewpan, that
your gravy may be delicately clean and clear. Set^it
by the side of a fire, where it will stew gently (to keep
it clear, and that it may not be reduced too much) for
about four hours : — if it has not boiled too fast, there
should be two quarts of good gravy; strain through a
silk or tammis sieve ; take very particular care to skim
it well, and set it in a col I place.
Strong Savouri/ Graxy — (No. 188), — alias *' Brown
Sauce j" alias " Grand Espagnol."
Take a Stewpan that will hold four quarts, lay a
slice or two of Ham or Bacon (about a quarter of an
inch thick) at the bottom, (undressed is the best,) and
two pounds of Beef, or Veal, a Carrot, a large Onion,
with four Cloves stuck in it, one head of Celery, a
bundle of Parsley, Lemon-thyme, and Savoury, about
as big round as your httle hw^er when tied close, a
few leaves of sweet Basil, (one Bay-leaf, and a Shallot,
if you like it), a piece of Lemon-peel, and a dozen
corns of Allspice*; pour on this half a pint of water,
cover it close, and let it simmer gently on a slow fire
for half an hour, in which time it will be almost dry ;
watch it very carefully, and let it catch a nice brown
colour, — turn the Meat, &c., let it brown on all sides;
add three pints of boiling water t, and boil for a
couple of hours. It is now rich Gravy. To convert
it into
Cullis, or Thickened Gravy. —(No. 189.)
To a quart of Gravy, put a tablespoonful of Thick-
watcr, — if it is poured in too soon, the Gravy will not have its true flavour
and colour ; — and if it be let alone till the Meat sticks to the pan, it will get
a burnt tastf.
• Trutfles, Morells and Mushrooms, Catsups and Wines, &c. are added liy
those who are for the extreme of Uatit Gout.
t The general rule is to put in about a Piut of water to a pound of meat,
U it only simmers very geniiy.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 255
ening (No. 257), or from one to two tablespoonsful of
Flour, according to the thickness you wish the Gravy
to be, into a basin, with a lacUeful of the Gravy; stir
it quick; — add the rest by degrees, till it is all well
mixed ; then pour it back into a stewpan, and leave it
by the side of the fire to simmer for half an hour
longer, that the Thickening may thoroughly incor-
porate with the Gravy, the stewpan being only half
covered, stirring it every now and then ; — a sort of
scum will gather on the top, which it is best not to
take off till you are ready to strain it through a
Tammis *.
Take care it is neither too pale nor too dark a
colour : if it is not Thick enough, let it stew longer, till
it is reduced to the desired thickness ; or add a bit of
glaze or Portable Soup to it, see (No. 252) : if it is too
Thick, you can easily thin it with a spoonful or two of
warm broth, or water. When your sauce is done, stir
it in the basin you put it into once or twice, while it is
cooling.
Veal Broth. — (No. 191.)
A Knuckle of Veal is best; manage it as directed
in the receipt for Beef Broth (No. 185^), only take care
not to let it catch any colour, as this and the following
and richer preparation of Veal, is chiefly used for
White Soups, Sauces, &c.
To make White Sauce, see (No. 364*.)
Veal Gravy. — {^o. 192.)
About three pounds of the nut of the Leg of Veal,
cut into half pound slices, with a quarter of a pound
of Ham in small dice; proceed as directed for the
Beef Gravy (No. 186), but watch the time of putting
in the water ; if this is poured in too soon, the gravy
• A Tammis is a worsted cloth, sold at the oil shops, made on purpose for
straining sauces ; the best way of using it is for two people to twist it contrary
ways : this is a much better way of straining sauce than through a Sieve, and
r€fines it much more completely.
256 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Avill not have its true flavour, — if it be let alone till the
meat sticks too much to the pan, it will catch too brown
a Colour.
Knuckle o/'Veal, or Shin or Leg o/'Beef, Sou-p.
(No. 193.)
A Knuckle of Veal, of six pounds weight, will make
a large tureen of excellent b^oup, and is tims easily
prepared : — Cut half a pound of Bacon into slices
about half an inch thick, lay it at the bottom of a soup
kettle, or deep stewpan, and on this place the knuckle
of veal, havinjj: first chopped the bone in two or three
places, — furnish it willi two carrots, two turnips, a
head of celery, tsvo large onions, with two or three
cloves stuck in one of them, a dozen corns of Black,
and the same of Jamaica pepper, and a good bundle
of lemon thyme, winter savory, and parsley. — Just
cover the meal with cold water, and set it over a quick
fire till it boils ; having skimmed it well, remove your
soup kettle to the side of the fire, let it stew very gently
till it is quite tender, i. e. about four hours ; then take
out the bacon and veal, strain the soup, and set it by
in a cool place till you want it, when you must take off
the fat from the surface of your liquor, and decant it
(keeping back the settlings at the bottom) into a clean
pan.
If you like a Thickened Soup, put three table-
sfHDonsful of the fat you have taken off the soup, into
a small stewpan, and mix it with four tablespoonsful
of flour, pour a ladlefiil of soup to it, and mix it with
the rest by degrees, and boil it up till it is smooth.
Cut the Meat and Gristle of the Knuckle and the
Bacon into mouthsful, and put them into the Soup,
and let them get warm.
Obs. — You may make this more savoury by adding
Catsup (No. 439), &c. Shin or Beef may be dressed
in the same way; see Knuckle of Veal stewed with
Rice (No. 523.)
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 257
Muttcm Brot/i. — (No. 194.)
Take two pounds of Scrag of Mutton ; to take the
biood out, put it into a Stewpan, and cover it with
cold water; when the water becomes milk warm, pour
it off, skim it well, then put it in again, with four or
five pints of v/ater, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful
of best grits, and an Onion; set it on a slow fire, and
when you have taken all the scum off, put in two or
three turnips, let it simmer veri/ sloxvly for two hours,
and strain it through a clean sieve.
This usual method of making Mutton Broth with the
Scrag, is by no means the most Economical method of
obtaining it ; for which see (Nos. 490 and 564.)
Ohs. — You may thicken Broth, by boihng with
it a little Oatmeal, — Rice, — Scotch, or Pearl Barley;
when you make it for a Sick person, read the Obs. on
Broths, &c. in the last page of the 7th Chapter of the
Rudiments of Cookery ; and (No. 564.)
Mock Mutton Broth, uitJiout Meat, in Five Minutes,
(No. 195.)
Boil a few leaves of Parsley with two teaspoonsful
of Mushroom* Catsup, in three quarters of a pint of
very thin Gruel (No. 572.) Season with a little salt.
Obs. — This is improved by a few drops of Shallot
Wine (No. 402), and the same of Essence of Sweet
Herbs (No. 419.) See also Portable Soup (No. 252.)
The Queen's morning " Bouillon de Sante.'"
(No. 196.)
Sir Kenelm Digby, in his " Closet of Cooker i/,'* page
149, London, 1669, informs us, was made with " a
brawny Hen, or young Cock, a handful of parsley, one
sprig of thyme, three of speamiint, a little balm, half a
* By this method, it is said, an ingenious Cook long deceived a large
family, who were all fond of weak mutton broth. — Mushroom Gravy, or
Catsup (No. 439), approaches the nature and flavour of Meat Gravy, mor«
than any Vegetable Juice, and is the best substitute for it in Meagre Soup*
and extempore Sauces, that Culinary Chemistry Las yet produoed.
258 BROTHS,
great onion, a little pepper and salt, and a clove, with
as much water as will cover them; and this boiled to
less than a Pint, for one g^ood porrengerful."
Ox-hctlJelh/. — CSo. 198.)
Slit thera in two, and take away the fat between the
claws. The proportion of water to each Heel is about
a quart; — -let it simmer gently for eight hours, (keeping
it clean skimmed) ; it will make a pint and a half of
strong Jelly, wiiich is frequentlv used to make Calves'
feet Jelly (No. 481), or to add to Mock Turtle, and
other Soups. See (No. 240 •.) This Jelly, evaporated
as directed in (No. 252), will give about three ounces
and a half of strong Glaze, — an unboiled Heel costs
one shilling and three pence ; so this glaze, which is
very inferior in flavour to No. 252, is quite as expensive
as that is.
N.B. To dress the Heels, see (No. 18 •.)
Obs. — Get a Heel that has only been scalded, not
one of those usually sold at the Tripe shops, which
have been built d till almost all the Gelatine is extracted.
Clkar Gravy Sours. — (No. 200.)
Cut half a pound of Ham into slices, and lay them at
the bottom of a large stewpan, or stockpot, with two
or Uiree pounds of lean Beef, and as much Veal ; —
break the bones and lay them on the meat, take off
the outer skin of two large Onions, and two Turnips,
wash, clean, and cut into pieces a couple of large
Carrots, and two heads of Celery ; and put in three
Cloves and a large blade of Mace : — cover the stewpan
close, and set it over a smart fire ; — when the meat
begins to stick to the bottom of the stewpan, turn it,
and when there is a nice brown jrlaze at the bottom of
the stewpan, cover the meat with hot water: — watch
it, and when it is coming to a boil, put in half a pint of
cold water, take off the scum, then put in half a pint
more cold water, and skim it again, and continue to do so
I
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 259
till no more scum rises. — Now set it on one side of the
fire, to boil gently for about four hours, — strain it
through a clean tammis, or napkin, (do not squeeze it,
or the Soup will be thick), into a clean Stone pan, let
it remain till it is cold, and then remove all the Fat; —
when you decant it, be careful not to disturb the
settlings at the bottom of the pan.
The Broth should he of a fine Amber colour, and as clear
as Rock Water ; — if it is not so brio^ht as you wish it,
put it into a stewpan, — break two whites and shells of
Eggs into a basin, beat them well together, put them
into the Soup, set it on a quick fire, and stir it with a
whisk till it boils, — then set it on one side of the fire,
to settle for ten minutes, run it through a fine napkin
into a basin, and it is ready.
However, if your Broth is carefully skimmed, &c. ac-
cording to the directions above given, it ivill be ckar
enough without clarifying, which process impairs the
flavour of it, — in a higher proportion than it improves
its appearance.
Obs. — This is the Basis of almost all Gravy Soups,
which are called by the name of the vegetables that are
put into them :
Carrots, — Turnips, — Onions, — Celery, — and
a few leaves of Chervil, make what is called Spring
Soup, or Soup Sante ; to this a pint of Green Pease,
or Asparagus Pease, or French Beans cut into pieces,
or a cabbage lettuce, are an improvement.
With Rice, — or Scotch Barley, — with Macca-
RONi, — or Vermicelli, — or Celery, — cut into
lengths; it will be the Soup usually called by those
names
Or Turnips scooped round, or young Onions, will
give you a clear Turnip, or Onion Soup, and all these
vegetables mixed together, Soup Cressi.
The Gravy for all these soups may be produced
extempore with (No. 252).
The Roots and Vegetables you use, must be boiled
260 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
first, or they will impregnate the soup with too strong;
a flavour.
The Seasoning for all thtse Soups is the same, viz.
Salt, and a very little Cayenne pepper.
N. B. To make excellent Vegetable Gran/ Soup for
4|d. a quart, see (No. 224).
Scotch Barley Broth, — A Good and Substantial
Dinner for 5d. per Head. — (No. 204).
"Wash three quarters of a pound of Scotch Barley in
a little cold water, ]nit it in a soup pot with a Shin or
Lcj^ of Beef, or a Knuckle of Veal of about ten pounds
weight, sawed into four pieces, (tell the Butcher to do
this for you), cover it well with cold water, set it on the
fire; when it Boils skim it very clean and put in two
Onions of about three ounces weight each, set it by the
side of the fire to simmer xeri/ gently about two hours ;
then skim all the fat clean off, and put in two heads of
Celery, and a large Turnip cut into small squares;
season it with salt, and let it boil an hour and a half
longer, and it is ready : take out the meat (carefully
with a slice, and cover it up and set it by the fire to
keep warm) : and scum the Broth well before you put
it in the Tureen.
S. (1.
ShiD of Beef of lOft i; G
j ponnd of lUrley , O 4i
C Onions of about 3 •!. weight euch 0 0\
Celery 0 1
A large Turnip 0 1
3 1
Thus you get Jour quarts of Good Soup, at 9|d. per
Quart, besides another quart to make sauce for the
Meat, in the following manner : —
Put a quart of the Soup into a basin, — put about an
ounce of Flour into a stewpan, and pour the Broth to
it by degrees, stirring it well together, set it on the
fire and stir it till it boils, — then (some put in a glass
of Port wine or Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), let it boil
lip, and it is ready.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 261
Put the Meat in a Ragout dish, and strain the Sauce
through a sieve over the Meat, you may put to it some
Capers, or minced Gherkins or Walnuts, &c.
If the Beef has been stewed with proper care in a xery
gentle manner J and be taken up at " the critical moment
when it is just tender," you will obtain exceUtnt and
^atoury Meat for eight People for Five Pence, i. e. for
only the cost of the glass of Port wine.
If you use Veal, cover the Meat with (No. 364,
No. 2).
s. a.
Soup 3 1
Wine 0 5
3 6
Obs. — Ihis is a most Frugal, — Agreeable, — and
Nutritive Meal, — it will neither lighten the Purse, nor
lie heavy on the Stomach, and will furnish a plentiful
and pleasant Soup and Meat for eight persons. So You
may give a good Dinner for 5d. per Head. See also (No.
229), and (No. 239).
N. B. If you will draw your Purse-strings a little
wider, — and allow Id. per head more, — and prepare
a pint of young Onions as directed in (No. 29'i), and
garnish the dish with them, or some Carrots, or Turnips
cut into squares,— ybr 6d.per Head you will have as good
a Ragout as " le Cuisinier Imperial de France" can give
you for as many shillings. Read Obs. to (No. 493).
You may vary the flavour by adding a little Curry
Powder (No. 455), Ragout (No. 457, &c.) or any of
the store Sauces and flavouring Essences, between
(Nos. 396 and 463), and you may garnish the dish with
split pickled Mangoes, Walnuts, Gherkins, Onions, &c.
See Wow Wow Sauce (No. 328).
If it is made the evening before the Soup is wanted,
and suffered to stand till it is cold, much Fat^ may be
* See " L'Art de Cuisinier," par A. Beauvillier, Paris, 1814, page 08,
" I have learned by experience, that of all the fats that are used for frying,
the Pot Top which is taken from the surface of the Broth and Stock-Pot is by
far the best."
262 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
removed from the surface of the Soup, which is, when
clarified (No. 83), useful for all the purposes that
Drippings- are applied to.
Scotch Soups. — (No. 205).
The three Jhlluwifig Receipts are the contribution of
a. frit /id at Edinburgh.
Winter Notch Patch,
Take the best end of a neck or loin of Mutton, cut it
into neat chops, cut four carrots and as many turnips
into slices, put on four quarts of water with half the
carrots and turnips, and a whole one of each, with a
pound of dried green peas, which must be put to soak
i!ie njf^lit before, — let it boil two hours, then take out
the whole carrot and turnip, bruise and return them,
put in the meat and the rest of the carrot and turnip,
some pepper and salt, and boil slowly three quarters of
an hour; a short time before serving add an onion cut
small and ahead of celery.
Cocky-Leeky Soup.
Take a scra<^ of Mutton, or shank of Veal, three
quarts ofwater (or liquor in which meat has been boiled),
and a good sized fowl, with two or three leeks cut in
pieces about an inch long, pepper and salt, boil slowly
about an hour, then put in as many more leeks, and
give it three quarters of an hour longer: — this is very
good, made of good beef stock, and leeks put in at
twice.
Lamb Stove or Lamb Ster.\
Take a lamb's head and lights, open the jaws of the
head, and wash them thoroughly, put them in a pot
with some beef stock, made with three quarts ofwater,
and two pounds of shin of beef, strained, boil very
slowly for an hour, wash and string two or three good
handsful of spinach (or Spinage), put it in twenty
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 263
minutes before serving;, add a little parsley and one or
two onions a short time before it comes off the fire,
season with pepper and salt, and serve all together in a
tureen.
Scotch Erase.— (So. 205^)
*' This favourite Scotch dish is generally made with
the liquor meat has been boiled in.
*' Put half a pint of Oatmeal into a porringer with a
httle salt, if there be not enough in the broth, — of
which, add as much as will mix it to the consistence of
hasty-pudding, or a little thicker, — lastly, take a little
of the fat that swims on the broth, and put it on the
Crowdie, and eat it in the same way as hasty-pudding."
Obs. — This Scotsman's dish, is easily prepared, at
very little expense, and is pleasant tasted and nutri-
tious. To dress a Haggies, see (No. 488*), and
Minced Collops following it.
N. B. For various methods of making and flavouring
Oatmeal Gruel, see (No. 572).
Cat-rot Soup.— (No. 212.)
Scrape and wash half a dozen large Carrots, peel off
the red outside (which is the only part that should be
used for this soup); put it into a gallon stewpan, with
one head of Celery, and Hn Onion, cut into thin pieces;
take two quarts of Beef, Veal, or Mutton broth, or if
you have any cold Roast Beef Bones, (or liquor, in which
Mutton or Beef has been boiled), you may make very
good broth for this soup : — when you have put the
broth to the roots, cover the stewpan close, and set it
on a slow stove for two hours and a half, when the
Carrots will be soft enough, (some Cooks put in a Tea-
cupful of Bread-cnuTibs,) boil for two or three minutes,
rub it through a tammis, or hair sieve, with a wooden
spoon, and add as much broth as will make it a proper
thickness, z\ e. almost as thick as pease soup : put it
into a clean stewpan, make it hot, season it with a
264 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOL PS.
little salt, and send it up with some toasted bread, cut
into pieces, half an inch square. Some put it into the
soup; but the best way is to send it up on a plate, as a
side dish.
Obs. — This is neither expensive nor troublesome to
prepare; — in the Kitchens of some opulent Epicures,
to make this Soup make a little stronger impression on
the gustatory Organs of " Grands Gourmands,^' the
Celery and Onions are sliced, and fried in Butter of a
light brown, the Soup is poured into the Stewpan to
them, and all is boiled up together : — but this must be
done ver)' carefully with Butter or very nicely clarified
felt; and the " Grand Ciiisinicr' add spices, »S:c. " ad
/i hi turn."
Turnip and Parsnip Suups — (No. 213.)
Are made in the same manner as the Carrot soup
(No. -21 2.)
Cc/cfi/ Suup.—{^o. 214.)
Split half a dozen heads of Celery into slips about
two inches long, wash them well, lay them on a hair
sieve to drain, and put them into three quarts of
(No. 200) in a gallon soup pot; set it by the side of
the fire, to stew very gently till the celery is tender ;
(this will take about an hour). If any scum rises,
take it off, season with a little salt.
Obs. — When Celery cannot be procured, Ila/f a
Drachm of the Seed, pounded fine, which may be con-
sidered as the Essence of Celery, (costs only one-
third of a farthing, and can be had at any season,) put
in a quarter of an hour before the soup is done, will
give as much flavour to half a gallon of Soup, as two
heads of Celery, weighing seven ounces and costing 2i/.;
or add a little Essence of Celery (No. 409.)
Green Pease Soup. — (No. 216.)
A peck of Pease will make you a good tureen of
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 265
Soup, — in shelling them put the old ones in one Basin,
and the young ones in another, — and keep out a pint
of them, and boil them separately to put into your Soup
%vhen it is finished ; put a large saucepan on the fire
half full of water, — when it boils, put the Pease in,
with a handful of salt ; let them boil till they are done
enough, i. e. from twenty to thirty minutes, according
to their age and size, then drain them in a cullender,
and put them into a clean gallon stewpan, and three
quarts of plain Veal or Mutton broth (drawn from meat
without any Spices or Herbs, &c. which would over-
power the flavour of the Soup), cover the stewpari close,
and set it over a slow fire to stew gently for an hour :
add a teacupful of bread-crumbs, and then rub it
through a tammis into another stewpan, stir it with
a v^ooden spoon, and if it is too thick, add a little more
broth ; have ready boiled as for eating, a pint of young
pease, and put tliem into the soup ; season with a little
salt and sugar.
N.B. Some Cooks, while this Soup is going on, slice
a couple of Cucumbers, (as you would for eating,); take
out the seeds, lay tliem on a cloth to drain, and then
flour them, and fry them a light brown in a little butter ;
put them into the soup the last thing before it goes to
table.
Obs. — If the Soup is not Green enough, pound a
handful of Pea-hulls or Spinage, and squeeze the juice
through a cloth into the soup ; some leaves of mint
may be added if approved.
Pkin Green Pease Soup, liit/ioiit Meat. — (No. 217.)
Take a quart of Green Pease, (keep out half a pint
of the youngest, boil them separately, and put them in
the Soup when it is finished,) put them on in boiling
water, boil them tender, and then pour off the water
and set it by to make the soup with; put the pease
into a mortar, and pound them to a mash. Then put
them in two quarts of the water you boiled the pease
N
266 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
in, stir all well together, let it boil up for about five
minutes, and then rub it through a hair sieve or tammis.
If the pease are good, it will be as thick and fine a
vegetable soup as need be sent to Table.
Pease Soup. — (No. 218.)
The common way of making Pease Soup' is, — to a
Quart of Split Pease put three quarts of cold soft water,
not more, (or it will be what ** jack ros-bif" calls
" Soup ,Uajgre")not\Nithstanding Mother Glasse orders
^ gallon, (and her Ladyship's directions have been
copied by almost every Cookery book-maker, who has
strung receipts together since), with half a pound of
Bacon, (not very fat), or Roast Beef bones, or four
Anchovies: or instead of the water, three quarts of the
Liquor in whicliBcef, Mutton, Pork, or Toultry has been
boiled, tastinj; it first, to make sure it is not too salt.f
Wash two l;f ad-i of Celeryt, cut it, and put it in,
with two Onions peeled, and a sprig of Savory, or
sweet Marjoram, or Lemon-'I hyme ; set it on the trivet,
and let it simmer very gently over a slow fire, stirring
it every rpjarter of an hour (to keep the pease from
sticking,- to and burning at the bottom of the Soup-pot,)
till the Pease are tender, which will be in about three
hours ; — some Cooks now slice a head of Celery, and
half an ounce of Oi. ions, and fry them in a little butter,
and put tiiem into the Soup, till they are lightly
browned, then work the whole through a coarse hair
sieve, and then through a fine sieve, or (what is better)
through a tammis, with the back of a wooden spoon; —
put it into a clean stew pan, with half a teaspoonful of
• To make Pease Pottaoe, doable the quantity. Those Mho often make
Pease Sonp, »honl<l have a Mill, and grind the Pfatc, Jast before they diess
ihem, — a lot qt.aulity will sufiice, and the Soup will be much »ooner
made.
t If ihe I,iqni.r is very salt, the Pc-ige will never boil tender. —Therefore,
when ><.u make Pe.ise Soup with ihi; liquor in which salted Poik or Beef has
been boiled, lie up the Pea2e in a cloth, and boil them first for an hoar in
»oft Wilier.
J Hal/ a drarhm nf Celfry Seed, pounded fine, and put into the Soup a
q'larter of an hour before it it finished, will flavour three quarts.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 267
ground Black Pepper*, let it boil again for ten minutes,
and if any fat arises, skim it off.
Send up on a plate. Toasted Bread cut into little
pieces a quarter of an inch square, or cut a slice of
Ijread (that has been baked two days) into dice not
more than half an inch square; put half a pound of
clean drippings or lard into an iron frying pan ; when it
is hot, Fry the Bread, take care and turn it about
with a slice, or by shaking of the pan as it is frying,
that it may be on each side of a delicate light brown,
see (No. 319); take it up with a fish-slice, and lay it
on a sheet of paper, to drain the fat : be careful that
this is done nictlii : send these up in one side dish, and
dried and powdered Mint or Savory, or Sweet Mar-
joram, &c. in another.
Those who are for a double Relish, and are true lovers
of " Haut Gout J' may have some Bacon cut into small
squares like the bread, and fried till it is crisp, or some
little lumps of boiled pickled Pork, — or put Cucumber
fried into this soup, as you have directions in (No. 216 )
Obs. — The most Economical method of making pease
SOUP, is to save the bones of a joint of Roast beef, and
put them into the liquor in which Mutton, or Beef, or
Pork, or Poultry has been boiled, and proceed as in the
above receipt. A hock, or shank bone of Ham, a ham
bone, the root of a Tongue, or a red or pickled Herring,
are favourite additions with some Cooks ; others send
up Rice, or Vermicelli, with Pease Soupf.
• Some put in dried Mint rnbhed to fine powder; but as every body does
not like Mint, it is best to send it up on a phtle, see Pea Powder (^o. 458),
Essence of Celery {lio. 409), and (Nos. 457 and 45y.)
t My witty predecessor, Dr. Hunter, {see Cnlina, page 97), says, " If a
proper quan'ity of Curry powder (No. 455) be added to Pease Soup, a good
soup miglit be made, under the litle of Lurry Pease Sovp. Ilelioi^abalus
offered rewards for the discovery of a new dis-b, and the Biiiish Parliament
!iave given notoriety to inveniions of much less importance than 'Curry
Pease Soup.'"
K. P. Celery, or Carrots, — or Turnips, — shredded or cot in squares, Cor
Scotcli Barley, in llie hUter case the soup must be rather thinner), or cut into bits
about an inch long, and boiled separately, and iln<nvn into the tureen when
llie soup is going to table, will give anoilun agreeable variety, and may be
called Celery and Tease Sodp. Read Oks. to (No. 214.)
N 2
268 BROTHS, GRAVIES; AND SOUPS.
N. B. To make Pease Soup Extempore, see
(No. 555.)
If you wish to jiake Soup the same day you
Boil Meat or Poultry, prepare the pease the same
as for Pease Vuddivg (No. 555), to wjiich you may add
an Onion and a head of Celery, when you rub the pease
tliroujih tlie sieve, — instead of putting Eggs and
Butter, add some of the hquor from the pot to make it a
proper thickness, — put it on to boil for five minutes,
and it is ready.
Obs. — Tlus is by far the easiest, and the best rrcty of
making Pease Soup.
Pease Soup may be made savoury and agreeable
to the palate, without any Meat, — by incorporating
two ounces of fresh and nicely clarified Beef, Mutton,
or Pork drippings, see (No. 83 \ with two ounces of
Oatmeal, and mixing this well into the gallon of
Soup, made as above directed, see also (No. 229.)
Pease Soup and Pickled Pork. — (No, 220.)
A couple of pounds of the belly part of Pickled Pork
will make very good broth for Pease Soup, if the pork
be not too salt, — if it has been in salt more than two
days, it must be laid in water the night before it is
used.
Put on the ingredieiUs mentioned in (No. 218), in
three quarts of water ; boil gently for two hours, then
put in the pork, and boil very gently till it is enough
to eat, — tins will take about an hour and a half or
two hours longer, according to its thickness : — when
done, wash the pork clean in hot \vater, send it up in
a dish, or cut it into mouthfuls, and put it into the
Soup in the tureen, with the accompaniments ordered
in (No. 218.)
Obs. — The Meat being boiled no longer than to be
done enough to be eaten, — you get excellent Sou-p^
without any expense of Meal destroyed.
3BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 269
Plain Pease Soup. — (No. 221.)
To a quart of split Pease, and two heads of Celery,
(and most Cooks would put a large Onion,) put three
quarts of Broth or soft water ; let them simmer gently
on a trivet over a slow fire for three hours, (stirring up
every quarter of an hour to prevent the pease burning
at the bottom of the soup kettle, — if the water boils
away and the Soup gets too thick, add some boiling
water to it) ; — when they are well softened, work
theni through a coarse sieve, and then through a fine
sieve or a tammis, wash out your stew-pan, and then
return the Soup into it, and give it a boil up; take
off any scum that comes up, and it is ready. Prepai'e
fried Bread and dried Mint, as directed in (No. 218),
and send them up with it on two side dishes.
Obs. — This is an excellent Family Soup, produced
with very little trouble or expense ; — i. e.
s. d.
Quart of Pease 0 8
Two Heads of Celery 0 2
Pepper and Salt 0 1
Pried Mint 0 1
1 0
So the Two Quarts cost One Shilling; — half a
drachm of bruised Celery Seed, which costs only one-
third of a farthing, and a little Sugar, added just
before finishing the Soup, — will give it as much fla-
vour as Two Heads of the fresh Vegetable.
Most of the Receipts for Pease Soup, are crowded
with ingredients which entirely overpower the flavour
of the Pease. See (No. 555.)
Asparagus Soup. — (No. 222.)
This is made with the points of Asparagus, in the
same manner as the Green Pease Soup (No. 216 or
17) is with pease; let half the Asparagus be rubbed
through a sieve, and the other cut in pieces about aa
270 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
inch long, and boiled till done enough, and sent up in
the soup ; to make two quarts, tiiere must be a pint of
heads to thicken it, and half a pint cut in, — take care
to preserve these green and a little crisp. This soup
is sometimes made by adding the asparagus heads to
common Pease soup.
Obs. — Some Cooks fry half an ounce of onion in a
little butter, and rub it through a sieve, and add it
with the other ingredients, — the haui-goiU of the
Onion will entirely overcome the delicate flavour of
the Asparagus, and we protest against all such com-
binations.
Maigre or Vegetable Gran/ Soup.* — (No. 224.)
Put in a gallon stewpan three ounces of Butter, set
it over a slow fire ; while it is melting, slice four ounces
of Onion ; cut in small pieces, one Turnip, one Carrot,
and one head of Celery, put them in the stewpan,
cover it close, let it fry till they are browned ; this will
take about 25 minutes: — have ready in a saucepan a
pint of Pease, with four quarts of water; when the
Roots in the stewpan are quite brown, and the pease
come to a boil, put the pease and water to them, put
it on the fire, when it boils scum it clean, and put in a
crust of bread about as big as the top of a two-penny
loaf, 24 berries of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper,
and two blades of Mace, — cover it close, — let it simmer
gently for one hour and a half; — then set it from the
fire for ten minutes, then pour it off very gently (so as
not to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the stew-
pan) into a large basin, let it stand (about two hours)
till it is quite clear, — while this is doing, shred one
large Turnip, the red part of a large Carrot, three
• fht: French call this "Soup Maigre," — ihe English acc-pt.ttion of
which i* " }>o^/r and ualery," aud does not at all accord wilh tin- French,
•which is Soup-, &c. made with.>ut ineai — Ihng, J lrtle, tlie rii ht'st riijli
fhat couies lo an English table (^if dressed without Meal Gravy;, ii a Maigre
Dull,
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 271
ounces of Onion minced, and one large head of Celery
cut into small bits; put the Turnips and Carrots on
the fire in cold water, let them boil five minutes, then
drain them on a sieve, — then pour off the Soup clear
into a stewpan, put in the Roots, put the Soup on the
fire, let it simmer gently till the herbs are tender, from
thirty to forty minutes, season it with salt and a little
Cayenne, and it is ready.
You may add a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup
(No. 439.)
Ob.s. — You will have Three Quarts of Soup, almost
as well coloured and as well flavoured as if made with
Gravy JMeat, — for 1*. I^d.
s. d.
Carrots 0 1
lurnips 0 1
Celery 0 2
Pease 0 3
Onious U Oi
Butter 0 3
Spice, SaU,&c 0 3
1 U
N.B. To Fri/ the herbs requires 25 minutes, — to
Boil all together, one hour and a half, — to settle, at
the least two hours, — when clear, and put on the fire
again, half an hour or forty minutes.
Fish Soups. (No. 225.)
Eel Soup.
To make a tureenful, take a couple of middling-sized
Onions, cut them in half, and cross your knife over
them two or three times ; put two ounces of Butter
into a stewpan; — when it is melted, put in the Onions,
stir them about till they are lightly browned, — cut into
pieces three pounds of unskinned Eels, — put them
into your stewpan, and shake them over the fire for
five minutes ; then add three quarts of boiling water,
and when they come to a boil, take the scum off very
272 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
clean, then put in a quarter of an ounce of the green
leaves (not dried) of winter Savory, the same of Lemon
Thyme, and twice the quantity of Parsley, two drachms
of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper, — cover it close,
and let it boil gently for two hours, then strain it oft',
and skim it very clean. To Thicken it, put three
ounces of Butter into a clean stewpan; when it is
melted, stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff*
paste, then add the liquor by degrees, let it simmer
for ten minutes, and pass it tlirough a sieve, then put
your Soup on in a clean stewpan, — and have ready
some little square pieces of Fish fried of a nice light
brown, — either Eels, Soles, Plaice, or Skate will do;
— the fried Fish sliould be added about ten minutes
before the Soup is served up. Forcemeat Balls (Nos.
375, 378, &'c.) are sometimes added.
OI)s. — ExcF.LLENT Fisii Suups may be made with
a Cod's Skull, — or Skate, — or Flousiders, &c. boiled
in no more water than will just cover them,— and
the liquor thickened with Oatmeal, <SlC.
Cheap Soups. — (No. 229.)
Among the variety of schemes that have been
suggested for bctteting the condition of the Poor,
a more useful or extensive Charity cannot be devised,
than that of instructing them in Economical Cookery:- —
it is one of the most important objects to which the
attention of any real well-wisher to the public interest
can possibly be directed.
The best and cheapest method of making a nourish-
ing Soup — is least known to those wb.o have most
need of it ; — it will enable those who have small in-
comes and large families — to make the most of the little
they possess, without pinching their children of that
wholesome nourishment which is necessary, for the
urpose of rearing them up to maturity in Health and
Strength,
^:
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 273
The labouring classes seldom purchase what are
called the coarser pieces of Meat, because they do not
know how to dress them, but lay out their money in
pieces for Roasting, &c., of which the bones, &c.
enhance the price of the actual meat to nearly a
shilhng per pound, and the diminution of weight by
Roasting amounts to 32 per cent. This, for the sake
of saving time, trouble, and fire, is generally sent to au
oven to be baked, the nourishing parts are evaporated
and dried up, its weight is diminished nearly one-third,
and all that a poor man can afford to purchase with his
week's earnings, perhaps does not lialf satisfy the ap-
petites of himself and family for a couple of days.
If a hard-working man cannot get a comfortable
meal at home, — he soon finds the way to the Public-
house, — the poor Woman contents herself with Tea
and Bread and Butter, — and the children are half
starved.
Dr. Kiichiner's Receipt to make a cheap, nutritive,
and palatable Soup, fully adequate to satisfy Appe-
tite, and support Strength, will open a new source to
those benevolent Housekeepers, who are disposed to
relieve the poor, — will show the industrious classes
how much they have it in their power to assist them-
selves, and rescue them from being dependent on the
precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how
they may obtain an abundant, salubrious, and agree-
able aliment for themselves and families, for One
Penny per Quart. See page 274.
For various Economical Soups, see (Nos. 204, 239
and 40, 224, 221), and Obs, to (No. 244), (No. 252;;,
and (Nos. 493 and 502.)
Obs. — Dripping intended for Soup, should be taken
out of the Pan almost as soon as it has dropped from
the meat ; — if it is not quite clean, clarify it. See
receipt (No. 83.)
Dripping thus prepared, is a very different thing
from that which has remained in the Dripping-pan ail
N 5
274 BROTHS, GKAVIES, AND SOUPS.
the time the meat has been roasting — and perhaps
live coals have dropped into it*.
Distributing Sour, does nut answer half so we/! an
teaching people how to make it^ and improve their comfort
at Home, — the time lust in waiting at the Soup House
is seldom less than three hours ; in which time, by
any industrious occupation, however poorly paid, they
could earn more money than the quart of Soup is
worth.
Dr. Kitciiinlr's Receipt to make a Gallon of Barlet/
Broth for a Groat.
Put four ounces of Scotch barley (previously washed
in cold water), and four ounces of sliced Onions, into
five (juarts of water; — boil gently for one hour, and
pour it into a pan, then put nito the saucepan from
one to two ounces of clean Beef or xMutton Drippings,
or melted Suet: (to clarify these, see (No. 83,) or two
or three ounces of fat Bacon minced); when melted,
stir into it four ounces of Oatmeal, rub these together
till you make a ])aste, (if this be properly managed, the
whole of the fat will combine with the barley broth,
and not a particle appear on the surface to oftend the
most delicate stomach;, now add the Barley Broth, at
first a spoonful at a time, then tlie rest by degrees,
stirring it well together till it boils. — lo season it, put
• We copied ibe following Receipt from Ihe Morning Post, January
1820 —
Winter Sot p. — (No. CCJ.)
eiOlbs. ol" Beef, fore quailtrs. | I'J Buiidlosof Lo, ks.
yOlbs. of Lei^s of Beef. | 6 I'-uutlh-s of Celei^ .
3 Busliels of best Split Pease. i lClb.«. of Salt.
1 Bushel of Fl'.nr. | nibs, of Blat k Pepper.
These E<'<'d ingreili nts will make 1000 quarts of uonrisliing aii«l agreeable
Soup, at ail expense (Establishment avoided) of little less than 2 id. per
quart.
Of this, C600 qiiisrts a day have been delivered during the late iiiclemerit
weather and ihe cessation of ordinary employment, at tuo stations in the
inrisli of Bernionds'.y, at one penny per quart, by which GoO families have
been daily assisted, and it thankfully received. Such a nourishment and
comfort could not have been provided by themselves separately for fourpence
a quart, if at all, and reckoning little for their fire, nothing for their time.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 275
a drachm of finely pounded Celery, or Cress Seed, (or
half a drachm of each,) and a quarter of a drachm of
finely pounded Cayenne (No. 404), or a drachm and a
half of ground Black Pepper, or Allspice, into a tea-
cup, and mix it up with a little of the soup, and then
pour it into the rest, stir it thoroughly together, let it
simmer gently a quarter of an hour longer, season it
with salt, and it is ready.
The flavour may be varied by doubling the portion
of Onions, or adding a clove of Garlic or Eschallot,
and leaving out the Celery Seed, see (No. 572), or put
in shredded Roots as in (No. 224.)
This preparation, excellent as it is, would, without
variety, soon become less agreeable.
Nothing tends so much to disarm poverty of its
sting, as the means of rendering a scanty pittance
capable of yielding a comfortable variety.
Change of Food is absolutely necessary — not only
as a matter of pleasure and comfort, but also of health
— Toujour s Perdrix is a true proverb.
It will be much improved, if, instead of water, it be
made with the liquor Meat has been boiled in; — at
Tripe, Cow-heel, and Cook shops, this may be had for
little or nothing.
This Soup has the advantage of being very soon and
easily made, with no more fuel than is necessary to
warm a room — those who have not tasted it, cannot
imagine what a Savoury and Satisfying Meal is pro-
duced by the combination of these cheap and homely
ingredients.
If the generally received opinion be true, that Animal
and V^egetable foods afford nourishment in proportion
to the quantity of Oil, Jelly, and Mucilage that can be
extracted from them, this Soup has strong claims to
the attention of Rational Economists.
Crai^ Fish Soup. — (No. 235.)
This soup is sometimes made with Beef, or Veal
broth, — or with Fish, in the following manner.
276 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Take Flounders, Eels, Gudgeons, &c. and set them
on to boil in cold water ; when it is pretty nigh boihng,
scum it well, and to three quarts put in a couple of
Onions, and as many Carrots cut to pieces, some
Parsley, a dozen berries of black and Jam-aica pepper,
and about half a hundred Cray-fish ; take otf'the small
claws, and shells of the tails, pound them fine, and
boil them with the broth about an hour ; strain otf,
and break in some crusts of bread to thicken it, and if
you can get it, the spawn of a lobster, pound it, and
put to the soup, let it simmer very gently for a couple
of minutes, put in your cray-fish to get hot, and the
soup is ready.
Uf)s. — One of my predecessors recommends Cray-
TISII poiindtd aiive, to sarcten the sliarpntss of the Blood .
— Vide Clermont's Cookery, p. 5, London, 1776.
*' Un (Its grands Homines de Bouchc de France' says :
" Un hon Coil /is d'FA:revisses est le Paradls siir la ttrre,
(t digue de la table des Ditux ; and of all the tribe
of Sliell-fish, which our Industry and our Sensuahty
bring from the bottom of the Sea, the River, or the
Pond, the Craw-fish is incomparably the most useful
and the most delicious."
Lobster Soup. — (No. 237.)
You must have three fine lively* Young Hen Lobsters,
and boil them, see (No. 176); when cold, split the tails,
take out the fish, crack the claws, and cut the meat
into mouthfuls : take out the coral, and soft part of
the body, bruise part of the coral in a mortar, pick out
the fish from the chines, beat part of it with the coral,
and with this make forcemeat balls, finely flavoured
with mace or nutmeg, a little grated lemon-peel, An-
chovy and Cayenne ; pound these with the yolk of an
Egg.
Have three quarts of Veal Broth; bruise the small
• Read (No. 176.)
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 277
legs and the chine, and put them into it, to boil for
twenty minutes, then strain it ; and then to thicken it,
take the live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with a
little Butter and Flour, rub it through a sieve, and add
it to the soup with the meat of the lobsters, and the
remaining coral; let it simmer very gently for ten
minutes ; do not let it boil, or its fine red colour will
immediately fade; turn it into a tureen, add the juice
of a good lemon, and a little Essence of Anchovy.
Soup and Boinlli.—{^o. 238.) — See also (No. 5.)
The best parts for this purpose, are the Leg or Shin,
or a piece of the middle of a Brisket of Beef, of about
seven or eight pounds weight; lay it on a fish drainer,
or when you take it up, put a slice under it, which will
enable you to place it on the dish entire ; put it into a
soup-pot or deep stewpan, witli cold water enough to
cover it, and a quart over, set it on a quick fire to get
the scum up, which remove as it rises ; then put in two
carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or two large onions,
two heads of celery, two or three cloves, and a faggot
of parsley and sweet herbs ; set the pot by the side of
the fire to simmer very gently, till the meat is just
tender enough to eat; this will require about four or
five hours.
Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion, and a
head or two of celery, into the soup whole, — take
them out as soon as they are done enough, lay them on
a dish till they are cold, then cut them into small
squares : — when the Beef is done, take it out care-
fully,— to dibh it up, see (No. 204, or 493), strain the
Soup through a hair sieve into a clean stewpan, take
off the Fat, and put the Vegetables that are cut into
the Soup, the flavour of which you may heighten, by
adding a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup.
If a Thickened Soup is preferred, take four large
tablespoonsful of the clear Fat from the top of the pot,
and four spoonsful of Flour; mix it smooth together,
278 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
then by degrees stir it well into the soup, which simmer
for ten minutes longer at least, — skim it well, and pass
it through a tanimis, or fine sieve, and add the Vege-
tables and seasoning the same as directed in the clear
soup.
Keep the Beef hot, and send it up (as a remove to
the Soup) with finely chopped Parsley s[)rinklcd on the
top, and a Sauce-boat of (No. 328.)
Ox- Head Soup— (So. 239.)
Should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten,
as you cannot cut the meat off the head into neat
mouthfuls unless it is cold -. — therefore, the day before
you want this Soup, put half an Ox Cheek into a tub
of cold water to soak for a couple of hours, then break
the bones that have not been broken at the butcher's,
and wash it very well in warm water; put it into a pot,
and cover it with cold water; when it boils, skim it
very clean, and then put in one head of celery, a couple
of carrots, a turnip, two large onions, two dozen berries
of black pepper, same of allspice, and a bundle of
sweet herbs, sucli as marjoram, lemon-thyme, savory,
and a handful of parsley; cover the soup-pot close,
and set it on a slow tire; take off the scum, which will
rise when it is coming to a boil, and set it by the fire-
side to itcii xery gcnthj for about three hours ; take out
the head, lay it on a dish, pour the soup through a fine
sieve into a stone-ware pan, and set it and the head by
in a cool place till the next day; — then, cut the meat
into neat mouthfuls, skim and strain off the Broth, —
put two quarts of it and the Meat into a clean stew-
pan, — let it simmer very gently for half an hour
longer, and it is ready. If you wish it thickened,
(which we do not recommend, — for the reasons given
in the 7th Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery); —
put two ounces of butter into a stewpan; when it is
melted, throw in as much flour as will dry it up; when
they are well mixed together, and browned by degrees,
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 279
pour to this your soup, and stir it well together, let it
simmer for half an hour longer, strain it through a hair
sieve into a clean stewpan, and put to it the meat of
the head, — let it stew half an hour longer, and season
it with Cayenne pepper, salt, and a glass of good wine,
or a tablespoonful of brandy. See Ox-Cheek Stewed
(No. 507.)
Ol)s, — Those who wish this Soup still more savoury,
&c. for the means of making it so we refer to (No. 247.)
N. B. This is an Excellent and Economical Soup, —
s. d.
Half an Ox Cheek 1 6
Celery 0 1
Herbs 0 2
Carrots and Turnips 0 3
Onions 0 1
Allspice, and Black Pe^jper and Salt ...... 0 1
2 2
and costs those who have not a garden of their own,
only 2*. 2d. ; and is a good and plentiful dinner for half
a dozen people ; see also (No. 204), and (No. 229.)
If you serve it as Soup for a dozen people, thicken
one Tureen, and send up the Meat in that, — and send
up the other as a clear Gravy Soup, with some of the
carrots and turnips shredded or cut into shapes.
Ox Tail Soup.— {"So, 240.)
Two Tails, costing about Id. each, will make a
Tureen of Soup ; (desire the Butcher to divide them at
the joints), lay them to soak in warm water, while you
get ready the Vegetables.
Put into a gallon stewpan, eight Cloves, tv/o or
three Onions, half a drachm of Allspice, and the same
of Black Pepper, and the Tails*; cover them with cold
water, skim it carefully, when and as long as you see
any scum rise; — then cover the pot as close as pos-
sible, and set it on the side of the fire to keep gently
* Some lovers of Haut-Goiit fry the Tails before Ihey put ihem iulo the
Soup-pot.
280 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
simmering till the meat becomes tender^ and will leave
the bones easily, because it is to be eaten with a spoon,
without the assistance of a knife or fork ; see N. B. to
(No. 244); this will require about two hours; mind it
is not done tuo much: when perfectly tender, take out
the meat (which some Cooks cut off the bones, in neat
mouthfuls, which is the best way of serving; it), skim the
broth, and strain it though a sieve: — if you prefer a
Thicken ED Soup, put Hour and butter, as directed in
the preceding ilt-ceipt, — or put two tablespoons ful of
the Fat you have taken otf tlie Broth into a clean stew-
pan, with as much flour as will make it into a paste ; set
this over the fire, and stir them well together, then pour
in the Broth by degrees, stirring it and mixing it with
the thickening; — let it sjmmcr for another half hour,
and when you have well skimmed it and it is quite
smooth, then strain it through a tammis into a clean
stewpan, put in the Meat, with a tablespoonful of
Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), a glass of Wine, and
season it with salt.
For increasing the l*i<iuance of tliis Soup, read
(No, 247.)
0/»5,_See N. B. to (No. 244); if the Meat is cutoff
the Bones, you must have three Tails for a Tureen, see
N. B. to (No. 244) ; some put an Ox Check or Tails in
an earthen pan with all the ingredients as above, and
send them to a slow oven for five or six hours.
N.B. This IS even more economical than the pre-
ceding Soup: —
*. d.
Two Tails I 2
Onions aud Spice u 2
'Tiitiii.Q\:>LV.j% of ticellent Soup cost only l 4
To Stew Ox Tails, see (No. 531.)
Ox Heel Soup— {"So. 240.*)
Must be made the day before it is eaten. Procure
an Ox Heel undressed, or onlv scalded, (not orio that
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 261
has been already boiled, as they are at the Tripe shops,
till almost all the gelatinous parts are extracted), and
Two that have been boiled as they usually are at the
Tripe shops.
Cut the meat off the boiled heels into neat mouthfuls,
and set it by on a plate ; put the trimmings and bones
into a stewpan, with three quarts of water, and the un-
boiled heel cut into quarters; — furnish a stewpan with
two onions and two turnips pared and sliced, pare off
the red part of a couple of large carrots, add a couple
of eshallots cut in half, a bunch of savory, or lemon-
thyme, and double the quantity of parsley ; set this
over or by the side of a slow steady fire, and keep it
closely covered and simmering very gently (or the soup-
liquor will evaporate), for at least seven hours; during
which, take care to remove the fat and scum that will
rise to the surface of the soup, which must be kept as
clean as possible.
Now strain the liquor through a sieve, and put two
ounces of butter into a clean stewpan ; when it is melted,
stir into it as much flour as will make it a stiff paste,
add to it by degrees, the soup liquor, give it a boil up,
strain it through a sieve, and put in the peel of a lemon
pared as thin as possible, and a couple of bay-leaves,
and the meat of the boiled heels, — let it go on simmer-
ing for half an hour longer, i. e. till the meat is tender.
Put in the juice of a Lemon, a glass of Wine, and a
tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup, and the soup is
ready for the tureen.
Obs. — Those who are disposed to make this a more
substantial dish, may introduce a couple of sets of
Goose or Duck Giblets, or Ox tails, or a pouad of
Veal cutlets, cut into mouthfuls.
Hare, B,abbU, or Partridge Soup, — (No. 241.)
An old Hare, or Birds, when so tough as to defy the
teeth in any other form, will make very good Soup.
Cut off the legs and shoulders, divide the body
282 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
crossways, and sYer;' them icn/ gentiij in three quarts ot
water, with one carrot, about one ounce of onion, with
four cloves, two blades of pounded mace, 24 black
peppers, and a bundle of sweet herbs, till the Hare is
tender, (most C ooks add to the above a couple of slices
of Ham or Bacon, and a Bay Leaf, &c. but my Palate
and I'ursc both plead against such extravagance, the
Hare makes sufficiently savoury Soup without them);
the time this will take de[)ends very much upon its
age, and how long it has been kept before it is dressed ;
as a general rule, about three hours; in the mean time,
make a dozen and a half of nice forcemeat balls (as big
as Nutmegs) of (No. 379); when the Hare is quite
tender, take the meat oft' the Back, and the upper joint
of the Legs, cut it into neat moulhfuls, and lay it aside ;
cut the rest of the meat oft" the legs, shoulders, &c.
mince it, and pound it in a mortar, with an ounce of
butter, and two or three tablcspoonsful of flour moistened
with a little Soup ; rub this through a hair sieve, and
put it into the Soup to thicken it ; — let it simmer slowly
half an hour longer, skinmiing it well, — put it through
the Tammis, into the pan again, — and put in the meat
with a glass of claret or Port wine, and a tablespoonful
of Currant Jelly to each quart of Soup, — season it with
salt, put in the forcemeat balls, and when all is well
warmed, the Soup is ready.
Obs. — Cold Roast Hake will make excellent
soup. Chop it in pieces, and stew it in water (accord-
ing to the quantity of Hare) for about an hour, and
manage it as in the above receipt ; the stuffing:: of the
hare will be a substitute for sweet herbs and seasoning.
N.B. This Soup may be made with Mock Harc,
see (No. 66*.)
Game Soup. — (No. 242.)
In the Game Season, it is easy for a Cook to give
her master a very good Soup at a very little expense,
by taking all the Meat off the Breasts of any cold
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 283
Birds which have been left the preceding day, and
pounding it in a mortar, and beating to pieces the legs
and bones, and boiling them in some broth for an
hour. Boil six turnips, mash them, and strain them
through a tammis cloth with the meat that has been
pounded in a mortar, strain your broth, and put a little
of it at a time into the tammis, to help you to strain all
of it through. Put your soup-kettle near the fire, but
do not let it boil ; when ready to dish your dinner,
have six yolks of eggs mixed with half a pint of cream,
strain through a sieve, put your soup on the fire, and
as it is coming to a boil, put in the eggs, and stir well
with a wooden spoon; do not let it boil, or it will
curdle.
Goose or Duck Gihlet Soup.* — (No. 244.)
Scald and pick very clean a couple sets of Goose, —
or four of Duck Gibltts, (the fresher the better), wash
them well in warm water, in two or three waters; cut
off the Noses and split the Heads, dkide the Gizzards
and Necks into Mouthjuls. — If the Gizzards are not cut
into pieces, — before they are done enough, the rest of
the meat, &c. will be done too n^uch ; — and Knives
and Forks have no business in a Soup plate. Crack
the bones of the Legs, put them into a stewpan, —
cover them with cold water: when they boil, take off
the scum as it rises, then put in a bundle of herbs, such
as Lemon Thyme, Winter Savory, or Marjorum, about
three sprigs of each, — and double the quantity of
Parsley, — twenty berries of Allspice, the same of
black pepper, tie them all up in a muslin bag, and set
them to stexcvery gently, till the Gizzards are tender; —
this will take from an hour and a half, to two hours,
according to the size and age of the Giblets : — take
them up with a skimmer, or a spoon full of holes, put
* Fqwls' or TcRKEYs' Heads make g>od and clieaj) Sony ij the s.imu
laiiiier.
284 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
them into the tureen, and cover down close, to keep
warm till the Soup is ready;
To Thicken the Soup. — Melt an ounce and a half
of butter in a clean stewpan, stir in as much Flour as
will make it into a paste ; then pour to it by degrees
a ladleful of the Giblet liquor, add the remainder by
degrees, let it boil about ten minutes, stirring it all the
while, for fear it should burn, — skim it and strain it
through a fine sieve into a Basin, — wash out the
stewpan, — then return the Soup into it, and season it
with a Glass of wine, a tablespoonful of Mushroom
Catsup, and a little salt, — let it have one boil up, —
and then put the Giblets in to get hot, and the Soup is
ready.
Obs. — Thus managed, one set of Goose or two of
DucJc Giblets, (which latter may sometimes be had for
3d.), will make a Quart of healthful, nourishing Soup :
if you think the Giblets alone will not make the Gravy
savoury enough, add a pound of Beef> or Mutton, or
bone of a knuckle of Veal, and heighten its " piquance"*
by adding a few leaves of sweet Basil, the juice of half
a Seville orange or lemon, and half a glass of Wine,
and a little of (No. 343*) to each quart of Soup.
Those who are fond of Forcemeat, may slip the
skin off the neck, and fill it with (No. 378), tie up the
other end tight, put it into the soup about half an hour
before you take it up, or make some nice savoury Balls
of tlie Duck stuffing (No. 61.)
Obs. — Bespeak the Giblets a couple of days before
yoFU desire to have them ; this is a favourite Soup when
the Giblets are done till nicely tender, but yet not
overboiled. Giblets may be had from July to January,
— ih^frtsher they are, the better.
N. B. This is rather a family dish than a company
one, — the Bones cannot be \vell picked, without the
help of Alive Pincers.
Since Tom Cory at introduced Forks, A.D. 1 642, it has
not been the fashion to put " pickers and stealers*' into Soup.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 285
Mock Mock Turtle, — (No. 245.) as made by Eliza-
beth Lister, (latt Cook to Dr. KitchinerJ, No. 6,
Queen Street, Oxford Street, near the Pantheon. — Goes
out to Dress Dinners on reasonable Terms.
Line the bottom of a stewpan that will hold five pints,
with an ounce of nice lean Bacon, or Ham, a pound
and a half of lean gravy beef, a Cow Heel, the inner
rind of a carrot, a sprig of lemon-thyme, winter savory,
three times the quantity of parsley, a few green leaves
of sweet basil*", and two shallots; put in a large Onion,
with four cloves stuck in it, 18 corns of allspice, tlie
same of black pepper; pour on these a quarter of a pint
of cold water, cover the stewpan, and set it on a slow
fire, to boil gently for a quarter of an hour ; then, for
fear the meat should catch, take off the cover, and
watch it ; and when it has got a good brown colour,
fill up the stewpan with boiling water, and let it simmer
very gently for two hours; — if you wish to have the
full benefit of the meat, only stew^ it till it is just tender,
cut it into mouthfuls, and put it into the soup. To*
Thicken it, pour to two or three tablespoonsful of
Flour, a ladleful of the gravy, and stir it quick till it is
well mixed; pour it back into the stewpan where the
gravy is, and let it simmer gently for half an hour
longer, skim it, and then strain it through a tammis into
the stewpan : cut the cow-heel into pieces about an inch
square, squeeze through a sieve the juice of a lemon,
a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful of
salt, half a teaspoonful of ground black pepper, as
much grated nutmeg as will He on a sixpence, and
a glass of Madeira or sherry wine; let it all simmer
together for five minutes longer.
* To this fiue aromatic Ueib, Turtle Sonp Is much indebted for its spicy-
flavour, and tlie high esteem it is held in by the good citizens of London, who,
I believe, ar« pretty generally of the same opinion as Dr. Salmon. See his
' Household Dictionary a7id Essay on Cookery," 8vo. London, 1710, page
31, article • Basil.' " This comforts the heart, expels melancholy, atTd
olearnses the lungs." See (No. 397.)
286 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Forcemeat or Egg balls may be acUled if you please';
you will find a receipt for these (No. 380, drc.)
*^* A pound of real Cut/cts, or the bt/h/ part of
pickled Pork, or tike double Tripe cut into pi(ces about en
inch S(juare, and half an inch thick, and rounded and
trimmed neafli/ fiom all skin, gnstle, i^-f. and itciued till
they are tender, nill be a gnat addition.
s. d.
One pound and a half of gravy bet/ 1 0
Cow Heel '. 0 7
Rin>ts and //< rbs, Jyc 0 3
Hiitterandjfottr o 4
nine 0 6
Half a lemon 0 1
Bacon, S^c. S^c o 4
Tuo quarts cost only 3 1
Mock Turtle— (No. 247.)
Is the " Uonne Bovche"' which '* the Officers of the
Mouth" of Old England* prepare, when they choose
to rival " les Grands Cuisiniers de France" in a *' Ragout
nans Partil.''
The following Receipt is an attempt (and the Com-
mittee of Taste pronounced it a successful one), to
imitate the excellent and generally approved Mock
Turtle made by Messrs. Birch, Cornhill.
indeavour to have the Head, and the Broth ready for
the Soupi, the day before it is to he eaten.
It will take Eight Hours to prepare it properly.
hours.
Cleaning and soaking (he head 1
Tu parbxil it to cut up 1
C«olii.g, nearly 1
Making the Krolh and fiuisliing the Soup .... 5
8 hours.
Get a Calf's head with the skin on, (the fresher the
better), take out the brains, wash the head several times
* " Tout It mon<ie sail qne touB les Ragouts qui ( uitentie noni de Tobtue,
sent d'oiigii.e Ai.glHise." — Manuel (les .imphdryotis,&\o. 1808, p. 229.
t ihose who do not like th« trouble, &c. ot making Muck lurile, may be
8U(^plitd \^iih it leady made, in bi<^h peileclion, at BlRCU's in Cornhill.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 287
in cold water, let it soak for about an hour in spring
water, then lay it in a stewpan ; and cover it with cold
water, and half a gallon over ; as it becomes warm,
a great deal of scum will rise, which must be imme-
diately removed, — let it boil gently for one hour, take
it up, and when almost cold, cut the head into pieces
about an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter, and
the tongue into mouthfuls, or rather make a side dish
of the Tongue and Brains, as in (No. 10.)
When the Head is taken out, put in the Stx)ck Meat*^
about five pounds of Knuckle of Veal, and as much
Beef, add to the stock all the Trimmings and Bones of
the Head, skim it well, and then cover it close, and let
it boil five hours, (reserve a couple of quarts of this to
make Gravy Sauces, &c. see (No. 307), then strain it
off, and let it stand till the next morning, — then take off
the fat, set a large stewpan on the fire with half a
pound of good fresh butter, twelve ounces of Onions
shced. and four ounces of green Sage, chop it a little,
let it fry one hour, then rub in half a pound of flour,
and by degrees add your Broth, till it is the thickness
of Cream, season it with a quarter of an ounce of
ground Allspice and half an ounce of Black Pepper
ground very fine, salt to your taste, and the rind of one
Lemon peeled very thin ; let it simmer very gently for
one hour and a half, then strain it through a hair
sieve, — do not rub your Soup to get it through the
sieve, or it will make it grouty; if it does not run
through easily, — knock your wooden spoon against
the side of your sieye, — put it in a clean stewpan with
the Head, and season it by adding to each gallon of
Soup half a pint of Wine — this should be Madeira, or
if you wish to darken the colour of your Soup, Claret,
and two tablespoonsful of Lemon juice, see (No. 407 *),
• The reader may have remarked, that Mock Turtle and Potted Beef
always come into season together.
See Obs. to (No. 503.*) This Gravy Meat will make an excellent
savoury Potted Relish, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of the
herbs and spice that are boiled with it.
288 BROTHS; GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
let it simmer gently till the Meat is tender ; this may-
take from half an hour to an hour ; — take care it is not
overdone ; — stir it frequently to prevent the meat
sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, and when the
meat is quite tender the soup is ready.
A Head weighing twenty pounds, and ten pounds of
stock meat, will make Ten quarts of excellent Soup, —
besides the two quarts of stock you have put by for
Made Dishes, &c.
Obs. — If there is more meat on the head than yo!i
wish to put in the soup, prepare it for a Pie, and with
the addition of a Calf's foot, boiled tender, it will make
an excellent Ragout pie; season it with Zest, and a
little minced Onion, put in half a teacupful of stock,
cover it with puff paste, and bake it one hour : when
the soup comes from table, if there is a deal of meat
and no soup, put it into a pie- dish, season it a little,
and add some thin stock to it, then cover it with paste,
bake it one hour, and you have a good Mock Turtle
Pie.
This Soup was eaten by the Committee of Taste with
unanimous applause, and they pronounced it a very
satisfactory substitute*" for " the far fetcht and dear
bought" 1'urtle; which itself is indebted for its Title
of " Sovereign of Savouriness," to the rich Soup
with which it is surrounded ; — without its paraphernalia
of subtle Double Relishes, a '* STARRED TURTLE,''
has not more intrinsic sapidity than a " FA'^FTllO
CALF." See Essence of Turtle, (No. 343 0, and
Obs. to (No. 493). To warm this Soup, see (No. 485.)
* •• Many Go7<r??;c^AaudGastro ogers prefer the copy to the original, — we
confess that when none as it ought to be, the Mock Turtle is exceedingly
interesting."— IV/^f/Za Cibaria,mZ0, p. 30.
" Turtles often become emaciated and sickly before they reach this coutitry,
in which case the Soup would be incomparably improved, by leaving out tlie
Turtli?, and substituting a good Calf's Head." — Supplement to Encyc. Brit.
Edinburgh^ vol. iv. p. 331.
Turtle prepared in the West Indies, may be had at Morrison's Patent
Preserved Provision Warehouse, ;No. 3, Charlotte Row, Mansion House,
at the rate of £l. \s. for three Quarts. The Editor tasted some Beef Stock,
and some Veal stewed in its own Jelly, which had been cooked six months, —
it was excellent, and continued so after being opened three days.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 289
The following is the Receipt given in the former
Edition of this work. Put about two ounces of butter
into a stock pot, and three large Onions (such as
weigh about three ounces each) cut in half; stir these
about till they get a little browned, then chop a Shin
of Beef of fifteen pounds weight into pieces, and lay
them on the onions, — and fill up the stewpan with the
liquor in which the Calf's head was boiled; when it
boils, and you have skimmed it well, put in two Car-
rots, two Turnips, two heads of Celery, eight Cloves, a
quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois weight) of Eshallots,
cut in half, and a bundle of equal parts of Green winter
Savory, Lemon Thyme, knotted Marjoram, and Basil,
and twice the quantity of Parsley; put in a quarter of an
ounce of Allspice, sam.e of whole Black Pepper, tYie
trimmings and bones of the Calf's head; cover it close,
and let it stew gently for about four hours, (there
should be nine quarts of soup when it is finished) : strain
it off, and reserve a couple of quarts of this Broth to make
Gravy Sauces yb/- the rest of the Dinner; see (No.
307). And save some of the thickened Soup, for
Sauce for Fish, Ragouts, &c. ; this hint will save
you much expense, and much time and trouble.
Take four drachms of Lemon peel, two of Eshallot,
six drachms of the leaves of Sage, and six of Winter
savory, chop it together quite fine, then put it on the
fire in half a pint of the stock, let it boil till it is quite
tender, (about half an hour), then strain it through a
sieve, and with the back of a spoon rub the herbs
through, aad put it in the Soup when you have thick-
ened it.
To Thicken it, put about six ounces of Butter into
a clean stewpan ; when it is melted, gradually stir in
eight ounces of Flour, rub it up well, and moisten it with
a ladleful of your Soup liquor, and mix all well together,
till they are smoothly united, then add the remainder
by degrees, stirring it all the while till thoroughly
o
!2f90 BROTHS, CRAVIES, AND SOUPar.
incorporated; (if it is at all lumpy, pass it throup^h a
sieve); let it stew half an hour longer, taking off" tlu-
scum as it rises ; then strain it through a tammis into
a clean stewpan, put in the Head, and let it simmer
gently till the Meat is tender, (this inuy riquire about ati
hour ; — take care it is not orcrdont ).
To Season it, to each Gallon of Soup put two
tablespoonsful of Lemon Juice, see (No. 407*), same
of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), and one of Essence of
Anchovy (No. 433), half a pint of Wine, (this should
be Madeira, or if you wish to darken the colour of your
soup. Claret), a teaspoonful of Curry Powder (No. 455),
or a quarter of a drachm of Cayenne, and the peel of a
Lemon pared as thin as possible ; let it simmer five
minutes more, take out the Lemon Peel, and the Soup
i<i ready for the Tureen.
\N hile the Soup is doing, prepare for each tureen, a
dozen and a half of Mock Turtle Forcemeat Balls, (to
make these, see (No. 375) or (No. 376), (No. 390 to
No. 396), we prefer the stuffing ordered in (No. 61),
and a dozen Y.^^ balls; and put them into the tureen.
Br.aix Balls, or cakes, are a very elegant addition,
and are made by boiling the brains for ten minutes,
then putting them in cold water, and cutting them into
pieces about as big as a large nutmeg; take Savoury,
or Lemon-thyme dried and finely powdered, nutmeg
grated, and pepper and salt, and pound them all to-
gether; beat up an q^i^, dip the brains in it, and then
roll them in this mixture, and make as much of it as
possible stick to them, dip them in the egg again, and
then in finely grated and sifted bread crumbs, fry them
in hot fat, and send them up as a side dish.
A VEAL SWEETBREAD, prepared as in (No. 89), not
too much done or it will break), cut into pieces the same
size as you cut the calf's head, and put in the soup,
just to get warin before it goes to table, is a superb
*' Honne Bmche ;' and Pickled Tongue, stewed till very
tender, and cut into mouthfuls, is a favourite addition.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 29l
We order the meat to be cut into INIouthfuls, that it
may be eaten with a spoon ; the Knife and Fork ha\e no
business in a Soup plate.
*^* Some of our culinary cotemporaries, order the Haui-
gout of this fas above directed, sufficiently relishing) Soup,
to be cofnbustiblcd and be-deiilled, nith a copious addition
of Anchovies, — Mushrooins, — Truffles, — Morells, — Curry-
povoder, — Artichokehottoms, — Salmons heads and livers, —
or the soft part of Oysters or Lobsters, — Soles cut in
mouthfuls. — a bottle of Madeira, — apitit of Brandy, t^r.,
and to complete their surfeiting and burn-gullet Olio, they
put in such a tremendous quantity of Cayenne pepper, — that
only af re-proof palate, lined xvith Asbestos, or indurated by
Indian Diet, can endure it. See Note under (No. 493).
N. B. In helping' this Soup, the distributor of it
should serve out the Meat, — Forcemeat — and Gravy, —
in equal parts ; however trifling or needless this remark
may appear, the writer has often suffered from the
want of such a hint being given to the Soup-server, who
has sometimes sent a plate of mere Gravy without
Meat, — at others, of Meat without Gravy, and some-
times scarcely any thing but Forcemeat Balls.
Obs. — This is a delicious Soup, within the reach of
those who " eat to live;" but if it had been composed
expressly for those who only '' live to eat,'' I do not
know how it could have been made more agreeable :
as it is, the lover of good eating will " wish his Throat
a mile long, and every inch of it Palate."
English Turtle.— {"No. 248.)
See (No. 50-2.) " Alamode Beef."
Curry, or Mullaga-Tauny* Soup. — (No. 249.)
• MuiUfga-Tairny—s'igmfies Pepper Water. The progress nfincxpcrienccrl
peripatetic Palaiici;nis has lately been arrested bylhi* otiilaiuiish word beiiia:
pasted on the window? of onr Coffeo-Honses : it has, we believe, answerrd
the " Restaurateurs'" purpose, and often excited John Bull to walk in
and taste;— the n ore familiar name of Curry .Sn/i>— would, perhaps, not
have hal snlticient of the charms of novelty — to -e'diice him from his niucii-
lovcd :Mock Tuktlk.
It is a fashionable Sonp, and a great favonrite with our East Indian frien !>,
and we ijiveth* best receipt we could pn cure for it.
o 2
292 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Cut 4lbs. of a Breast of Veal into pieces, about two
inches by one ; put the trimmings into a st^wpan with
two quarts of water, with twelve corns of Black Pepper,
and the same of Allspice ; when it boils, skim it clean,
■and let it boil an hour and a half, then strain it off; —
while it is boiling, fry of a nice brown in butter the bits
of Veal and four Onions ; when they are done, put the
Broth to them, put it on the fire ; when it boils, skim it
clean,- let it simmer half an hour, then mix two
spoonsful of Curry and the same of Flour, with a little
cold water and a teaspoonful of salt; add these to the
soup, and simmer it gently till the Veal is quite tender,
and it is ready; — or bone a couple of Fowls or Rabbits,
and stew them in the manner directed above for the
Veal, — and vou may put in a bruised Eshallot, and
some Mace and Ginger, instead of Black Pepper and
Allspice.
O/M.-Read (No. 497).
Tiirtk* .So///).— (No. 250.)
As it u our wish that this work should be given to
the Public at the lowest possible price — the Receipt for
dressing a Turtle is taken out — as a professed Cook is
always hired for the purpose of dressing it. The space
this long receipt occupied is now filled with directions
for making useful Pickles. See (No. 462).
• " The usual allo'vance at a Turtle Fevst, is Six Pounds live weight
per Head: — at Uie Spanish biimei , at the (Jity of London J avern, in August,
18u8, 4<)t) Gue?t.« afttJiidcd, and £500 pounds of Tonle were cousuriied." See
Bell's Weekly Messenger for August 'th, 1808.
The Ljicure Qlin used to say, it was " not safe, to sit down to a Turtle
Feast ai one of the Citj iialls, without a basket-hilted Knife and Fork."
We recuinmeud our frieuds, before encounterinij such a temptation, to read
our I'tPTic Fricepts. Nothing is more diliiculi of ditjesiion, or oftener
requiri - the aid of Peristaltic Persuaders, (see page 4.3 of this work), than
(he gluiiiiuus Callipash which is considered ihe " Oonne bouche" of this Soup.
Turtle is generally spoiled by being over-dressed. If the Header has
ary etirosMy io know huw it is prepared in the most superlative style, — it
wi,ll he gra<iiied in the highest degree, if he paysa visit to Albion tlou:>£, iu
AUieiS!i;ite Stree:.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 293
Portable* Soup, — or Glaze. — (No. 252.)
Desire the Butcher to break the bones of a Leg
or a Shin of Beef, of 10 pounds weight (the fresher
killed the better), put it into a Soup-pot (a Di-
OESTER-j- is the best utensil for this purpose) that
will well hold it ; just cover it with cold water, and
set it on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly
boils, (this should be at least an hour) ; — skim it
attentively while any scum rises, — pour in a little
cold water, to throw up the scum that may remain, —
let it come to a boil again, and again skim it care-
fully : when no more scum rises, and the broth ap-
pears clear, (put in neither Roots nor Herbs nor Salt,)
let it boil for eight or ten hours, and then strain it
through a hair sieve into a brown stone pan ; set the
Broth where it will cool quickly ; put the meat into a
sieve, let it drain, make Potted Beef (No. 503), — or it
will be very acceptable to many poor families. Next
day remove every particle of Fat from the top of it, and
pour it through a Tammis or fine sieve as quietly as
possible into a Stewpan, taking care not to let any of
the settlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into the
Stewpan, which should be of thick Copper, perfectly
well tinned ; add a quarter of an ounce of whole Black
Pepper to it, let it boil briskly, with the stewpan
uncovered, on a quick fire : if any scum rises, take it
off with a skimmer ; when it begins to thicken, and is
• " A pound of meat contains about an ounce of gelatinous matter ; it thence
follows, that 1500 poiuids of the same meat, which is the whole weight of a
bullock, would s;ive only Qi pounds, which might be easily contrine 1 in an
earthen Jar." — Dr. Hui ton's Rational Recreations, vol. iv. p. iy4.
In wjiat degree Portable or other Soup be nutritious, we know not ; but
refer the reader to our note under (No. 185 '.)
t This machine was invented by Dr. Denys Papin, F.R.S., about the year
l681, as appears by his Essay on " The New Digester, or Engine /or
Softening Bones ;" — '• by the help of which, (he says) the oldest and hardest
Cow Beef may be made as tender and as savoury as young and choice Meat."
Cast Iron Digesters are made at Jackson and Moser's, in Frith Street, Soho.
Although we have not yet found that they do what Dr. Papin says, " malce
old and tough Meat — young and tender," they are, however, excellent
t^in^s to maJie Broths and Soups ic.
^4 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOIPS.
reduced to about a quart, put it into a smaller stew-
pan ; set it over a <i:entler fire, till it is reduced to the
thickness of a very thick Syrup ; take care that it does
not burn, — a moment's inattention nan icill lose you all
your labour, ami the .soup xiill he spoiled: — take a little
of it out in a spoon and let it cool ; if it sets into
strons; Jelly, it is done enough ; — if it does not, boil it
a little longer, till it does; — have ready some little
pots, such as are used for Potted Meats, about an inch
and a half deep, takinji; care that they are quite dry ; —
we recommend it to be kept in these pots, if it is for
home consumption — {the less it is reduced, the better
is the Jlaiour of the Soup) — if it be sufficiently con-
centrated to keep for six months ; — if you wish to
preserve it lonj^er, put it into such bladders as are
used for German Sausaj^es, — or if you prefer it in the
form of Cakes, pour it into a dish about a quarter of
an Inch deep ; when it is cold, turn it out and weigh
the Cake, and divide it with a ])aste-cutter into pieces
of half an ounce and an ounce each; place them in a
wajin room, and turn them frequently till they are
tht»rou^diiy dried ; — this will take a week or ten days ;
tmn them twice a day; — when well hardened, and
kept in a dry place, they may be preserved for several
years in any climate.
This extract of Meat makes excellent " Tablettes de
Bouillon,'' for those who are obliged to endure long
fasting.
If the surface becomes mouldy, wipe it with a httle
waiTTi water — the mouldy taste does not penetrate the
mass.
If, after several days' drying, it does not become so
hard as vou wish, put it into a Bainmarie Stewpan, or
a Milk-boiler, (these are made by Lloyd, Tinman, near
Norfolk-Street, Strand), till it is evaporated to the con-
sistence you wish — or, set the Pots in a cool Oven, or in
a Cheese Toaster, at a considerable distance from the
fire ; this is the only safe way of reducing it very much,
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS,
295
Without the risk of its burning, and acquiring an ex-
tremely disagreeable acrid flavour, &c.
Ohs. — The uses of this concentrated Essence of Meat
are numerous. It is equally economical and conve-
nient for making extempore the Broths enumerated in
the Obs, to (No. 200), Sauces and Gravies for Hashed
or Stewed Meat, Game, or Poultry, &c.
You may thicken it and flavour it as directed in
(No. 329) ; — to make Gravy, Sauces, &c. take double
the quantity ordered for Broth.
If you have time and opportunity, as there is no
seasoning in the Soup, either of Roots, Herbs, or
Spice, boil an Onion vt^ith or vrithout a bit of Parsley
and Sweet Herbs, and a few corns of Allspice, or other
Spice, in the water you melt the Soup in, which may
be flavoured with Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), — or
Eshallot Wine (No. 402), — Essence of Sweet Herbs
(No. 417), — Savoury Spice (No. 421, or 457), — Es-
sence of Celery (No. 409), &c. or Zest (No. 255); —
these may be combined in the proportions most agree-
able to the palate of the Eater — and are as portable
as Portable Soup, for a very small portion will flavour
a Pint.
The Editor adds nothing to the solution of this
Soup, but a very little ground Black Pepper and some
Salt.
N. B. If you are a careful manager, you need not
always purchase Meat on purpose to make this, — when
you dress a large Dinner, you can make Glaze at very
small cost, by taking care of the trimmings and parings
of the meat, game, and poultry you use ; wash them
well, put them into a Stewpan, cover them with the
liquor you have boiled Meat in, and proceed as in the
above Receipt; and see Obs. on (No. 185.)
Mem. This Portable Soup is a most convenient
article in Cookery — especially in Small Families^ where
it will save a great deal of time and trouble. It is
also Economical, for no more will be melted than is
wanted — so there is no waste.
296 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Nine pounds of Neck of Beef costing 2*. l^d. pro-
duced nine ounces of very nice Soup ; the Bones, when
boiled, weighed 10 ounces.
Half an Ox Cheek, costing \s. 9(1. and weighing 14^
pounds, produced 13 ounces — but not so hrni or clear,
a':d far inferior in flavour to that obtained from a
Shin of Beef.
yi Sheep s Head, costing Or/., ])roduced tluee ounces
and a half.
Tiio pounds of lean Meat^ from the Blade Bone of
Beef, produced hardly an ounce.
The addition of an ounce of Guin Arabic^ and two
ounces of Isinglass, to four ounces of the extract from
a Leg of Beef, considerably diminished the consistence
of the mass, without adding to its bulk.
It has been thoui^dit that the Portable Soup which
is manufactured for sale — is partly made with Ox
Heels; but the experiment (No. 198), proves this can-
not be, as an ounce of the Jelly from Ox Heel costs
5d. For flie cheapest method oj jmtcuring a hard Jelly,
gee N. B. to (No. 4S1); — 19 Bones, costing ^d. pro-
duced three ounces : — almost as cheap as Salisbury
Glue.
We are informed, that there is now for sate at
Leipsig — some Tuns of Portable Soup — for Two
shillings per pound. During the late war, there was
a great deal imported mto this country from Russia.
A Knuckle of Veal, weighing 4^ pounds, and costing
Is. 4d. produced Kve ounces.
A Shin of Beef, weighing nine pounds, and cost-
ing 1*. I04rd. produced nine ounces of concentrated
Soup, gufticiently reduced to keep for several months.
After the boiling, the bones in this joint weighed two
pounds and a quarter, and the Meat two pounds and a
quarter.
The result of these experiments is, that the product
from l^gs and Shins of Beef was almost as large in
quantity, and of much superior quality and flavour, to
that obtained from any of the other materials ; — the
liROTHS, GUAVIES, AND SOUPS. 297
flavour of the product from Mutton, Veal, &c. is com-
paratively insipid.
As it is difficult to obtain this ready-made of good
quality — and we could not find any proper and circum-
stantial directions for making it, which on trial answered
the purpose, — and it is really a great acquisition to
the Army and Navy — to Travellers, Invalids, &c. —
the Editor has bestowed some time, &c. in endeavouring
to learn — and to teach how it may be prepared in the
easiest, — most economical, and perfect manner.
The ordinary seUing price is from lOs. to 125. — but
you may make it according to the above Receipt for
Zs. 6d. per Pound— f e. for 2^d. per Ounce, which will
make you a Pint of Broth.
yhose who do not regard the expense, and like the
flavour, may add the lean of Ham, in the proportion of
a pound to eight pounds of Leg of Beef.
Jl.t may also be flavoured, by adding to it, at the
t^me you put the Broth into the smaller Stewpan,
Mushroom Catsup, Shallot Wine, Essences of Spice
or Herbs, &c. ; — we prefer it quite plain — it is then
ready .to be converted in an instant into a basin cff
Beef Tea for an Invalid, and any flavour may be
jn^mediately communicated to it by the Magazine of
Taste (No. 463.)
To Clarify Broth or Gravi/. — (^o, 252*.)
Put on the Broth in a clean Stewpan, break the
white and Shell of an Egg, beat them together, put
tjiem into the Broth, stir it with a whisk ; when it has
boiled a;few minutes, strain it through a Tammis or a
napkin.
^Obs. — A careful Cook will seldom have occasion to
clarify her Broths, &c. if prepared according to the
.•directions given in (No. 200.)
o5
THE
COOK^S ORACLE.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Melted Butter
Is so simple and easy to prepare, it is a matter of
general siirj)rise, that what is done so often, in every
English kitchen, is so seldom done right, — Foreigners
may well say, that although we have only One Saucl
for Vegetables, Fish, Flesh, Fowl, ike. — we hardly
ever make that good.
It is spoiled nine times out of ten, move from Idleness y
than from I<!;norance, and rather because the Cook won't
than because she can't do it, — which can only be the
rase when Housekeepers will not allow Butter to do it
with.
Good mi.lted Butter cannot be made with mere
flour and water; t/iere must be a full and proper proportion
of Butter. — As it must be alicaj/s on the Table, and
is THE FOUNDATION OF ALMOST ALL OUR ENGLISH
SAUCES, I have tried ever)' way of making it ; and I trust,
at last, that I have written a receipt, which if the Cook
will carefully observe, she will constantly succeed in
giving satisfaction.
In the quantities of the larious Sauces I have ordered,
I have had in view the providing for a Family of half
a dozen moderate people.
Never pour Sauce over Meat, or even put it into the
dish; — however well made, some of the Company
may have an antipathy to it; — Tastes are as different
as Faces; — moreover, if it is sent up separate in a
boat, it will keep hot longer, and what is left may be
put by for another time, or used for another purpose.
GRAVIES AJ^D SAUCES. 299
Lastly. — Observe, that in ordering the proportions
of Meat, Butter, Wixe, Spice, &c. in the following
receipts, the proper quantity is set doivn^ and that a less
quantity will not do ; — and in some instances, those
Palates which have been used to the extreme of Pi-
quance, will require additional excitement*. — If we have
erred, it has been on the right side, from an anxious
wish to combine Economy with Elegance, and the
Wholesome with the Toothsome. The following we
recommend as an elegant Relish to finish Soups and
Sauces.
ZEST,
For Chops, Sauces,
AND
Made Dishes.
(No. 255.)
This piquante quintessence of Ragout, imparts to whatever it
touches the most delicious ilelisb ever imagined; — it awakens
the Palate with delight, — refreshes Appetite, — and instantly
excites the good humour of (every man's master) the Stomach.
Soon made Savoury Sauce.
stir two drachms of ZEST, into half a pint of melted butter
(No. 256.) Let it boil up and strain it through a sieve; — or
each Guest may add it at table like Salt, and adjust the vibration
of his Palate to his own Fancy.
Sold at Butleh's Herb-shop, opposite Henrietta street, Co-
vent Garden.
It will keep, for any time, in any Climate.
• This may be easily accomplished by the aid of the Whip and Spur that
Students of long standing in the School of Good Living are generally so fond
of enlivening their palate with, i. e. Cayenne and Garlick.
Parsley (No. 26i), Chervil (No. 264), Celery (No. 289), Cress
(No. 397*), Tarragon (No. 396), Burnet (No. 399), Basil (No. 397),
EsHALLOT(Nos. 295 and 403), Capek (Nos. 274 and 295,) Fennel (No. 265),
Liver (Nos. 287 and 288), Curry (Nos. 348 and 455), Egg (No. 267),
Mushroom (No. 403), Anchovy (Nos. 270 and 433), Ragout (Nos. 421
and 457), Shrimp (No. 283), Bonne Bouche (N>o. 341), Superlative
(No. 429), and various Flavouring Essences. See from (No. 396 to 463).
(Any of the above Vegetables, &c. may be minced very finely, and sent to
table on a little plate, and those who like their flavour may mix them with
I^Ielted Butter, &c. This is a hint for Economists, which will save thewj
many pounds of Butter, &c. See Mem, to (No. 2;56.)
^00 GKAVIES AND SAVCE5.
Melted Butter. — (No. 256.)
Keep a pint stewpan* for this purpose only.
Cut two ounces of butter, into little bits, that it may
melt more easily, and mix more readily; — put it into
the stewpan with a large teaspoonful (?'. e. about three
drachms) of Flour, (some prefer Arron- Root or Potatoe
Starch (No. 448), and two tablespoonsful of Milk.
When thoroughly mixed, — add six tablespoonsful
of water ; hold it over the fire, and shake it round every
minute, (all the while the same way), till it just begins
to simmer, then let it stand quietly and boil up. It
should be of the thickness of good cream.
N. B. Two tablespoonsful of (No. 439) instead of the
milk, will make as good Mushroom Sauce as need be,
and is a Superlative accompaniment to either Fish, —
Flesh, — or Fowl.
Obs. — This is the best wav of preparing melted
butter; — Milk mixes with the butter much more easily
and more intimately than water alone can be made to do.
This is of proper thickness to be mixed at table with
Flavourins: Fssences, Anchovy, Mushroom, or Cavice,
&c. If made merely to pour over vegetables, add a
little more milk to it.
N. B. If the Burn.ii Oils, put a spoonful of cold
water to it and stir it with a spoon, — if it is very much
oiled, it must be poured backwards and forwards from
the stewpan to the Sauceboat till it is right again.
Mkm. Melted Butter made to be mixed with fla-
vouring Essences, Catsups, &c. should be of the
thickness of light Batter, thdt it may adhere to the
Fish, &IC.
Thickenmg. — (No. 257.)
Clarified butter is best for this purpose ; but if you
have none ready, put some Fresh Butter into a stewpan
* A Silver Saucepan is Infinitely the best, — you mny tare one big
enough to melt butter for a moderate family for four or five pounds.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. SOl
over a slow clear fire ;— when it is melted, add fine Flour
sufficient to make it the thickness of paste ; — stir it
well together with a wooden spoon for fifteen or t-veoty
minutes, till it is quite smooth, and the colour of a
Guinea : this must be done very gradually and patiently,
if you put it over too fierce a fire to hurry it, it will
become bitter and empyreumatic; pour it into an
earthen pan, and keep it for use. It will keep good a
fortnight in Summer, and longer in Winter.
A large spoonful will generally be enough to thicken
a Quart of Gravy.
0/,,y. — This in the French kitchen is called ilo^x.
Be particularly attentive in making of it; if it gets
any burnt smell or taste, it will spoil every thing it is
put into, see Obs. to (No. 322). When cold, it shoukl
be thick enough to cut out with a knife, like a solid
paste.
It is a very essential article in the kitchen, and is
the basis of consistency in most made dishes, soups,
sauces, and ragouts : — if the Gravies, &c. are too thin,
add this Thickening, more or less, according to the
consistence you would wish them to have.
Mem. In making Thickening, — the less Butter, and
the more Flour you use the better ; — they must be tho-
roughly worked together, and the broth, or soup, &c. you
put them to, added by degrees ; — take especial care to
incorporate them v/ell together, or your sauces, &c. will
taste floury, and have a disgusting, greasy appearance ;
— therefore after you have thickened your sauce, add
to it some broth, or warm water, in the proportion of
two tablespoonsful to a pint, and set it by the side of
the fire, to raise any fat, &c. that is not thoroughly in-
corporated with the gravy, which you must carefully
remove as it comes to the top. This is called cleass-
ing,.or finishing the sauce.
%* Half an ounce of Butter, and a tabkspoonful of
Flour, are about the proportion for a pint of Same, to
make if as thick as Cream.
302 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
N. B. The Fat .S'Aiw//i///o.s offthe top of the Broth Pot
are sometimes substituted for Butter, see (No. 240),
— some Cooks merely thicken their Soups and Sauces
with F/uur, as we have directed in (No. -4.5), or Po-
tatoe Farina (No. 448.)
Clarified Butler.— {^0. 2,59.)
Put the Butter in a nice clean stewpan, over a very
clear slow fire, watch it, and when it is melted carefully
skim oft' the buttermilk, &c. which will swim on the
top ; — let it stand a minute or two, for the impurities
to sink to the bottom, — then pour the clear butter
throug^h a sieve, into a clean basin, leaving the sedi-
ment at the bottom of the stewpan.
Ohs. — Butter thus purified, will be as sweet as
Marrow, — a very useful covering; for Potted Meats,
&c. and for fryini^ Fish, c(|ual to tlie finest Florence oil,
for whicli purjtose it is commonly used by Catholics,
and those whose religious tenets will not allow them to
eat viands fried in animal oil.
Bur/it lU/tttr. —(No. 260.)
Put two ounces of fresh butter into a small fry^ingpaa,
when it becomes a dark brown colour, add to it a
tablespoonful and a half of good vinegar, and a little
pepper and salt.
Obs. — 'I his is used as sauce for boiled Fish, or
poached Eggs.
Oiled Butter. — (So. 260*.)
Put two ounces of fresh Butter into a saucepan, set it
at a distance from the fire so that it may melt gradually,
till it comes to an Oil, — and pour it off quietly from
the dregs.
Obs. — This will supply the place of Olive Oil, and
by some is preferred to it, either for Salads, or Frying.
Parsk}/ and Butter. — (No. 261.)
Wash some Parsley very clean, and pick it carefully
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. "503
leaf by leaf; put a teaspoonful of salt into half a pint
of boiling water, boil the Parsley about ten minutes,
drain it on a sieve, mince it quite fine, and then bruise
it to a pulp.
The delicacy and excellence of this elegant and
innocent Relish, depends upon the Parsley being minced
very fine ; put it into a sauce-boat, and mix with it
by degrees about half a pint of good melted butter,
(No. 256), only do not put so much flour to it, as the
Parsley will add to its thickness, — never pour Parsley
and Butter over boiled things, but send it up in a Boat.
Obs. — In French Cookery Books, this is called
'* Melted Butter, English Fashion," and, with the addi-
tion of a slice of lemon cut into dice, a little Allspice
and Vinegar, " Dutch Sauce."
N. B. To PRESERVE Parsley through the winter, —
in May, June, or July, take fine fresh gathered sprigs,
pick and wash them clean, set on a stewpan half full
of water, put a little salt in it, boil and skim it clean,
and then put in the Parsley and let it boil for a couple
of minutes, and take it out, and lay it on a sieve before
the fire, that it may be dried as quick as possible, —
put it by in a Tin Box, and keep it in a dry place, —
when you want it, lay it on a Basin, and cover it with
warm water a few minutes before you use it.
Gooseberry Sauce.— {'No. 263.)
Top and tail them close, with a pair of scissors, and
scald half a pint of green Gooseberries, drain them on
a hair sieve, and put them into half a pint of melted
Butter (No. 256.)
Some add grated Ginger and Lemon Peel, and the
French, minced Fennel, — others send up the Goose-
berries whole, or mashed, without any butter, &c.
Chervil, — Basil, — Tarragox, — Burnet, —
Cress, — and Butter. — (No. 264.)
This is the first time that Chervil, which has so long
304 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
been a favourite with tUe sao^acious French Cook, has
been introduced into an Eng:Hsh book. — Its flavour is a
&trono^ concentration of the combined taste of Parsley
and Fennel, but more aromatic and agreeable than
either ; and is an excellent sauce with boiled Poultry
or Fish. Prepare it, &c. as we have directed for
Parsley and Butter, (No. 2G1.)
Femx'l and Butter for Mackarclj c]c. — (No. 265.)
Is prepared in the same manner as we have just
described in (No. 261.)
Obs. — For Mackarel sauce, or boiled Soles, &c. —
some people take equal parts of Fennel and Parsley ; —
others add a sprig; of Mint, or a couple of young
Onions minced very fine.
Mackarel Roc Sana. — (No. 266.)
Boil the Iloes of Mackarel, (soft roes are best,) bniise
them with a spoon with the yolk of an Egg, beat up
with a very little pepper and salt, and some Fennel
and Parsley boiled and chopped very fine, mixed with
almost half a pint of thin melted butter, see (No. 256.)
Mushroom catsup, Walnut pickle, or Soy, may be
added.
Egg Sauce. — (No. 267.)
This agreeable accompaniment to roasted Poultry, —
or salted Fish, — is made by putting three Eggs into
boiling water, and boiling them for about twelve minutes,
when they will be hard, put them into cold water till you
want them. — This will make the Yolks firmer, aud pre-
vent their surface turning black, and you can cut them
much neater, — use only two of the Whites; cut the
Whites into small dice, — the Yolks, into'bits about a
quarter of an inch square, — put them into a Sauce-
boat, pour to them half a pint of melted Butter, and
stir them together.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 'SOS
Obs. — The Melted Butter for Egg Sauce need not be
made qvite so thick as (No. 256. )
N.B. Some Cooks garnish Salt Fish with hard boiled
eggs cut in half.
Plum Pudding Sauce. — {^o. 269.)
A glass of Sherry, half a glass of Brandy, (or
" Cherry-Bounce,") or CuraQoa (No. 474), or Essence
of Punch (No. 471 and 479,) and two teaspoonsful of
pounded lump sugar, (a very little grated Lemon
Peel is sometimes added), in a quarter of a pint of
Thick Melted butter : grate Nutmeg on the top.
See Pudding Catsup (No. 446.)
Anchovy Sauce, — (No. 270.)
Pound three Anchovies in a mortar with a little bit
of Butter, rub it through a double Hair sieve, with the
back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into almost half a
pint of Melted butter (No. 2o6) ; or stir in a table-
spoonful 0^ Essence of Anchovy (No. 433.) — To the above
many cooks add Lemon juice and Cayenne.
06.5. — Foreigners make this sauce with good Brown
Sauce (No. 329), or White Sauce (No. 364,) instead
of melted Butter, — and add to it Catsup, — Soy,—
and some of their flavoured Vinegars, as Elder or
Tarragon, — Pepper and fine Spice, — sweet herbs, —
Capers, — Eshallots, — &c. They serve it with most
Roasted Meats.
N.B. Keep your Anchovies well covered, first tie
down your Jar with Bladder moistened with vinegar,
and then wiped dry, tie Leather over that : when you
open a Jar, moisten the bladder, and it will come off
easily, — as soon as you have taken out the Fish,
replace the coverings, the air soon rusts and spoils
Anchovies. See (No. 433, &c.)
Garlick Sauce. — (No. 272.)
Pound two cloves of Garlick with a piece of fresh
306
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Butter about as big as a Nutmeg: rub it through a
double hair sieve, and stir it into half a pint of melted
butter, or Beef Gravy ; or make it with Garlick Vinegar
(No. 400), (Nos. 401 and 402.)
Lemon Sauce. — (No. 273.)
Pare a Lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick
as a half-crown piece ; divide these into Dice, and put
them into a quarter of a pint of Melted Butter (No. 256.)
Obs. — Some Cooks mince a bit of the Lemon Peel
(pared very thin) very fine, and add it to the above.
Caper Sauce. — {^o. 274.) — See also (No. 295.)
To make a Quarter Pint, — take a tablespoonful of
Capers, and two teaspoonsful of Vinegar.
The present fashion of cutting Capers, — is to mince
one third of them very fine, and divide the others in
half; put them into a quarter of a pint of melted Butter,
or good thickened Gravy (No. 329), — stir them the
same way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil.
Obs. — Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of
Parsley, or Chervil, or Tarragon, and add these to the
sauce ; — others the juice of half a Seville Orange, or
Lemon.
Mem. — Keep the Caper bottle very closely corked,
and do not use any of the Caper liquor ; — if the Capers
are not well covered with it, they will immediately
spoil, and it is an excellent ingredient in Hashes, &c.
The Dutch use it as a Fish Sauce, mixing it with
Melted butter.
Mock Caper Sauce. — (No. 275 or 295.)
Cut some pickled Green Pease, — French Beans,—
Gherkins, — or Nasturtiums, into bits the size of Capers ;
put them into half a pint of melted butter, with two
teaspoonsful of Lemon juice, or nice Vinegar.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 307
Oyster Sauce. — (^o. 278.)
Choose Plump and Juicy Natives for this purpose ; —
dont take them out of their Shell till you put them into the
Stewpan, see Ob.s. to (No. 181.)
To make good Oyster Sauce for half a dozen hearty
Fish-Eaters, you cannot have less than three or four
dozen Oysters. — Save their liquor, strain it, and put it
and them into a stewpan ; as soon as they boil, and the
fish plump, take them off the Fire, and pour the contents
of the stewpan into a sieve over a clean basin, wash the
stewpan out with hot water, and put into it the strained
liquor, with about an equal quantity of Milk, and about
two ounces and a half of Butter, with which you have
well rubbed a large tablespoonful of Flour, — give it a
boil up, and pour it through a sieve into a basin, (that
the Sauce may be quite smooth), and then back again
into the saucepan, — now, shave the Oysters, and (if
you have the honour of making sauce for '- a Committee
of Taste,'" take away the gristly part b.Uo,) put in only
the soft part of the Oysters, (if they are very large
cut them in half), and set them by the side of the fire
to keep hot, " if they boil after, they will become
hard."
If you have not Liquor enough, add a little Melted
Butter, or Cream, see (No. 388), or Milk beat up with
the yolk of an Egg, (this must not be put in till the
sauce is done.) Some barbarous Cooks add Pepper,
— or Mace, — the juice or peel of a Lemon, — Horse-
radish, — Essence of Anchovy, — Cayenne, &c. ; —
Vlain Sauces are only to taste of the Ingredient from
which they derive their name.
Obs. — It will very much heighten the flavour of this
Sauce, to pound the soft part of half a dozen (unboiled)
Oysters, rub it through a hair sieve, and then stir it
into the sauce; — this Essence of Oyster (and for
some palates a few grains of Cayenne) is the only
addition we recommend. See (No. 441.)
308 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Pre&eried Oysters. — (No. 280.)
Open the Oysters carefully, so as not to cut them
except in dividing the gristle which attaches the shells,
— put them into a Mortar, and when you have got
as many as you can conveniently pound at once, add
about two drachms of Salt to a dozen Oysters, — pound
them and rub them, through the back of a hair sieve,
and put them into a mortar again, with as much Flour
(which has been previously thoroughly dried) as will
make them into a paste, roll it out several times, and
lastly, flour it and roll it out the thickness of a half
crown, and divide it into pieces about an inch square,
lay them in a Dutch oven, where they will dry so gently
as not to get burned, — turn them every half hour, and
when they begin to dry, crumble them, — they will take
about four hours to dry, — then pound them fine, — sift
them and put into bottles and seal them over.
N. B. Three dozen Natives required 71 ounces
of dried Flour to make them into a paste, which then
weighed 11 ounces, — when dried and powdered, 6J
ounces.
To make half a pint of Sauce, put one ounce of Butter
into a stewpan, with three drachms of Oyster powder,
and six tablespoon sful of milk ; set it on a slow fire,
stir it till it boils, and season it with salt.
This Powder, if made with Plump Juicy Natives,
will abound with the flavour of the Fish, and if closely
corked, and kept in a dry place, will remain good for
some time.
Obs. — This Extract, is a welcome succedaneum
while Oysters are out of season, and in such inland
parts as seldom have any, is a valuable addition to the
list of Fish sauces: it is equally good with boiled
Fowl, or Rump Steak, — and sprinkled on bread and
Butter makes a very good Sandwich, and is especially
worthy the notice of Country Housekeepers — and as
a Store Sauce for the Army and Navy. See Anchovy
Powder (No. 435.)
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 809
Shrimj) Sauce.-— (^o. 283.)
Shell a pint of Shrimps, pick them dean, wash
them, and put them into half a pint of good Melted
Butter.
Obs. — Some stew the Heads and shells of the
Shrimps, (with or without a blade of bruised Mace), for
a quarter of an hour, and strain off the liquor to melt
the butter with, and add a little Lemon Juice, —
Cayenne, — and Essence of Anchovy, — or Soy, —
Cavice, &c. ; — but the Flavour of the Shrimp is so
delicate, it will be overcome by any of those ad-
ditions.
Lobster Sauce. — (No. 284.)
Choose a tine spawny Hen Lobster*, be sure it is
fresh, so get a live one if y<Ji^ can, (one of my culinary
predecessors says, '• let it be /leavu and lively,'') and boil
it as (No. 176), pick out the Spawn and the Red Coral
into a mortar, add to it half an ounce of Butter, pound
it quite smooth, and rub it through a hair sieve with
the back of a wooden spoon ; cu^t the meat of the
Lobster into small squares, or pull it to pieces with a
fork, put the pounded Spawn into as much melted
Butter (No. 256) as you think will do, and stir it
together till it is thoroughly mixed, — now put to it
the meat of the Lobster, and warm it on the fire, take
care it does not hoil^ uhich ivill spoil its complexion, and its
brilliant Red colour uill immediately fade.
The above is a very easy and excellent manner of
making this Sauce.
Some use strong Beef or Veal Gravy instead of
melted Butter, adding Anchovy, Cayenne, Catsup,
Cavice, Lemon juice or pickle, or Wine, &c.
• Yon mast have a Hen Lobster, on account of the Live Spawn, — some
Fishmongers have a cruel custom of tearing this from the Fish, before they
are boiled; — lift up the tail of the Lobster, and see that it has not been robbed
of its Eggs ; — the goodness of your Sauce depends upon its having a full
share of the Spauii in it, to which it owes not merely its brilliant Red
Colour, but the finest part of its Flavour.
310 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Obs. — Save a little of the inside Red Coral Spawn,
and rub it through a sieve (without butter) : — it is a
yery ornamental garnish to sprinkle over Fish ; and if
the skin is broken, (which will sometimes happen to
the most careful Cook, when there is a large dinner to
dress, and many other things to attend to), you will
find it a convenient and elegant Veil, to conceal your
misfortune from the prying eyes of piscivorous Gour-
mands.
N.B. Various methods have been tried to preservk
Lobsters, see (No. 178), and Lobster Spawn, for a
Store Sauce. The Live Spawn may be kept some
time in strong Salt and Water — or in an Ice-liouse.
The following process might, perhaps, preserve it
longer: — Put it into a Saucepan of boiling water,
with a large spoonful of Salt in it, and let it boil quick
for five minutes ; then drain it on a hair sieve, spread
it out thin on a plate, and set it in a Dutch Oven till it
is thoroughly dried, — grind it in a clean mill, and
pack it closely in well-stopped Bottles. See also
Potted Lobsters, (No. 178.)
Sauce for Lobster, (^c— (No. 285.)— See also (No. 372.)
Bruise the yolks of two hard boiled Eggs with the
back of a wooden spoon, or rather pound them in a
mortar, with a teaspoonful of water, and the soft inside
and the spawn of the lobster, rub them quite smooth,
with a teaspoonful of made Mustard, two tablespoonsful
of Salad Oil, and five of Vinegar; season it with a very
little Cayenne pepper and some salt.
Obs. — To this, Elder or Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396),
or Anchovy Essence (No. 433), is occasionally added.
Liier and Parsley Sauce, — (No. 287.) — or Liver
and Le?non Sauce.
Wash the Liver (it must be perfectly fresh) of a Fowl
or Rabbit, and boil it five minutes in five tablespoonsful
ghavies and sauces. 311
of water; — chop it fine; or pound or bruise it in a
small quantity of the liquor it was boiled in, and rub it
through a sieve: — wash about one-third the bulk of
Parsley leaves, put them on to boil in a little boiling
water,\vith a teaspoonful of salt in it ; lay it on a hair
sieve to drain, and mince it lery fine; mix it with the
liver, and put it into a quarter pint of melted butter,
and warm it up ; — do not let it boil.
Or,
To make Lemon and Liver Sauce.
Pare off the rind of a Lemon, or of a Seville Orange,
as thin as possible, so as not to cut off any of the
White with it; — now cut off a// the White, and cut
the Lemon into slices, about as thick as a couple of
half-crowns ; pick out the pips, and divide the slices
into small squares ; add these, and a httle of the peel
minced very fine, to the Liver, prepared as directed
above, and put them into the melted Butter, and warm
them together, — but do not let them boil.
N.B. The Poulterers can always let you have/rci^
Livers — if that of the Fowl or Rabbit is not good, or
not large enough to make as much Sauce as you wish.
Qls. — Some Cooks, instead of pounding, — mince
the Liver very fine (with half as much Bacon), and
leave out the Parsley, — others add the juice of half a
Lemon, and some of the Peel grated, — or a teaspoon-
ful of Tarragon or Chili Vinegar, a tablespoonful of
White Wine, or a little beaten Mace or Nutmeg, or
Allspice : — if you wish it a little more lively on the
palate, pound a Shallot, or a few leaves of Tarragon or
Basil, with Anchovy or Catsup, or Cayenne.
Liver Sauce for Fish. — (No. 288.)
Boil the Liver of the Fish, and pound it in a mortar
with a little flour, stir it into some Broth, or some of
the liquor the fish was boiled m, or melted Butter,
312 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Parsley, and a few grains of Cayenne, — a little Essence
of Anchovy (No. 433), or Soy, or Catsup (No. 439) ; —
give it a boil up, and rub it through a sieve : — you
may add a little Lemon Juice — or Lemon cut in dice.
Cekri/ Sauce, White. — (No. 2S9.)
Pick and wash two heads of nice White Celery, cut
it into pieces about an inch long; stew it in a pint of
water, and a teaspoonful of salt, till the Celery is
tender* ; roll an ounce of butter with a tablespoonful
of flour ; add this to half a pint of cream, and give it a
boil up.
N.B. See (No. 409.)
Celery Sauce, Puree, for boiled Turkey, Veal, Fowls, 8fC.
(No. 290.)
Cut small half a dozen heads of nice White Celery
that is quite clean, and two Onions sliced ; put in a
two-quart Stewpan, with a small lump of Butter ;
sweat them over a slow fire till quite tender, then put
in two spoonsful of flour, half a pint of water (or Beef
or Veal Broth), salt and pepper, and a little cream or
milk ; boil it a quarter of an hour, and pass through a
fine hair sieve with the back of a spoon.
If you wish for Celery sauce, when Celery is not
in season, a quarter of a drachm of Celery-seed, or a
little Essence of Celery (No. 409), will impregnate half
a pint of sauce with a suflScient portion of the flavour
of the Vegetable.
See Obs.ioi^o. 214.)
Green, or Sorrel Sauce. — (No. 291.)
Wash and clean a large Ponnet of Sorrel, put it
into a Stewpan that will just hold it, with a bit of
Butter the size of an Egg, cover it close, set it over
* So mncli depends upon the age of the Celery, we cannot give any precise
time r'or this. Youi g ti tsh-^athered Celery will be enough in three quarters
of an hour; old will fomeiiines take twice as long.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 313
a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, pass the Sorrel
with the back of a wooden spoon through a hair sieve,
season with Pepper, Salt, and a small pinch of pow-
dered Sugar, make it hot, and serve up under Lamb,
Veal, Sweetbreads, &c. &c. Cayenne, Nutmeg, and
Lemon Juice, are sometimes added.
Tomata, or Love-apple Sauce. — (No. 292.) See also
(No. 443.)
Have twelve or fifteen Tomatas, ripe and red;
take off" the stalk; cut them in half; squeeze them
just enough to get all the water and seeds out; put
them in a stewpan, with a Capsicum, and two or three
tablespoonsful of Beef Gravy ; set them on a slow
stove for an hour, or till properly melted ; then rub
them through a taramis into a clean stewpan, with a
little white pepper and salt, and let them simmer
together a few minutes.
N.B. To the above the French Cook adds an Onion
or Eshallot, a Clove or two, or a little Tarragon
Vinegar.
Mock Tomata Sauce. — (No. 293.)
The only difference between this, and genuine Love-
apple Sauce, is the substituting the pulp of Apple for
that of Tomata, colouring it with Turmeric, and com-
municating an acid flavour to it by vinegar.
S/iallot Sauce. — (No. 294.)
Take four Shallots, and make it in the same manner
as Garlic Sauce (No. 272.)
Or,
You may make this sauce more extemporaneously,
by putting two tablespoonsful of Shallot Wine (No. 403),
and a sprinkling of Pepper and Salt, into (almost) half
a pint of thick m.elted Butter.
Obs. — This is an excellent Sauce for Chops, or
314 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Steaks, — many are very fond of it with roasted or
Boiled Meat, Poultry, &c.
Shallot Sauce, for Boiled Mi(ifon. — (No. 295.)
This is a very frequent and satisfactory substitute
for " Caper Sauce J"
Mince four Shallots very fine, and put them into a
small saucepan, with almost half a pint of the liquor
the Mutton was boiled in ; let them boil up for five
minutes; — then put in a tablespoonful of Vinegar, a
quarter teaspoonful of Pepper, a little Salt, and a bit
of Butter (as big as a walnut) rolled in flour; shake
together, till it boils. See (No. 402), Eshalloi H'inc.
Obs. — We like a little Lemon Peel with Shallot ;— the
Haut-Guut of the latter is much ameliorated by the
delicate Aroma of the former.
Some Cooks add a little finely chopped Parsley.
Youn^ Onion Sauce. — (No. 296.)
Peel a pint of Button Onions, and put them in water
till you want to put them on to boil; put them in a
stewpan, with a quart of cold water; let them boil till
tender; they will take (according to their size and
age) from half an hour to an hour. You may put them
into half a pint of (No. 307.) See also (No. 137.)
Onion Sauce. — (No. 297.)
Those who like the full flavour of Onions, only cut
oft^ the strings and tops (without peeling off" any of the
skins), put them into salt and water, and let them lie
an hour; then wash them, put them into a kettle with
plenty of water, and boil them till they are tender:
now skin them, pass them through a cullender, and
mix a little melted Butter with them.
N. B. Some mix the pulp of Apples, or Turnips,
with the Onions,— others add Mustard to them.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 315
THike Onion Sauce.— {^o. 298.)
The following is a more mild and delicate* prepara-
tion:— Take half a dozen of the largest, and whitest
Onions, (the Spanish are the mildest, but these can
only be had from August to December,)— peel them,
and cut them in half, and lay them in a pan of spring
water for a quarter of an hour, and then boil them
tender, which will sometimes take an hour, drain them
well on a hair sieve, lay them on the chopping-board
and chop and bruise them, put them into a clean
saucepan, with some Butter and Flour, half a tea-
spoonful of salt, and some Cream, or good milk; stir
it till it boils ; then rub the whole through a tammy or
sieve, adding cream or milk, to make it the consistence
you wish.
Obs. — This is the usual sauce for boiled Rabbits, —
Mutton, — or Tripe. — There must be plenty of it; the
usual expression signifies as much;, for we say, smother
them with it.
Brown Onion Sauce, or Onion Gravy. — (No. 299.)
Peel and slice the Onions (some put in an equal
quantity of Cucumber or Celery) into a quart stewpan,
with an ounce of Butter ; set it on a slow fire, and turn
the Onion about till it is very lightly browned ; now
gradually stir in half an ounce of Flour ; add a
little broth, and a little pepper and salt, boil up for a
few minutes, add a tablespoonful of Claret, or Port
wine, and same of Mushroom Catsup, — (you may
sharpen it with a little Lemon Juice or Vinegar) — and
rub it through a tammy, or fine sieve.
Curry Powder (No. 348), will convert this into
excellent Curry Sauce.
N. B. If this Sauce is for Steaks, shred an ounce
of Onions, fry them a nice brown, and put them to the
• If you wish to have them very mild, cut them in quarters, boil them for
five minutes in plenty of water, and then drain them, and cook them in fresh
water.
p2
316 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
sauce you have rubbed through a tammy; — or some
very .small round young silver Button Onions, see (No.
296), peeled and boiled tender, and put in whole when
your Sauce is done, will be an acceptable addition.
Obs. — If you have no Broth, put in half a pint of
water, and see (No. 252); — just before you give it the
last boil up, add to it another tal)lesp()onful of Mush-
room Catsup, or the same quantity of Port Wine or
good Ale.
The Havour of this Sauce may be varied by adding
Tarragon or Burnet Vinegar, (Nos. 396 and 399.)
Sage and Onion^ or Goose-it uffmg Sauce. — (No. 300.)
Chop very fine an ounce of Onion and half an ounce
of fjreen Sage leaves, put them into a stcwpan with
tour spoonsful of water, simmer gently for ten minutes,
full put in a tea^poonful of pepper and salt, and one
ounce of line bread-crumbs ; mix well together ; —
tiieh pour to it a quarter of a |)inl of (Broth, or Gravy,
or) Melted Butter, stir well together, and simmer it a
fcw minutes longer.
0/m. — 1 his is a very relishing Sauce for Roast Pork,
Geese, or Ducks; or Green Pease on Maigrt Days.
See also Dunne Bouchc for the above, (No. 341.)
Green Mint Sauce. — (No. 303.)
Wash half a handful of nice young fresh-gathered
Green Mint, (to this some add one-third the quantity
of Parsley,) pick the leaves from the stalks, mince
them very fine, and put them into a sauceboat, with a
teaspoonful of moist Sugar, and four tablespoonsful of
Vinegar.
Obs. — This is the usual accompaniment to Hot
Lamb ; — and an equally agreeable relish with Cold
Lamb.
If Green Mint cannot be procured, this sauce may
be made with Mint Vinegar, (No. 398.)
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 317
Apple Sauce. — {"^o. 304.)
Pare and core three good sized baking Apples, put
Ihem into a well-tinned pint saucepan, with two table-
ispoonsful of cold water; cover the saucepan close,
and set it on a trivet over a slow fire a couple of hom's
before dinner, — some Apples will take a long time
stewing, — others will be ready in a quarter of an
hour: — when the Apples are done enough, pour off
the water, let them stand a few minutes to get dry ;
then beat them up with a Fork, with a bit of Butter
about as big as a Nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of pow-
dered Sugar.
N. B. Some add Lemon Peel, grated, or minced
fine, — or boil a bit with the Apples.
Mushroom Sauce. — (No. 305.)
Pick and peel half a pint of Mushrooms (the smaller
the better), wash them very clean, and put them into a
saucepan with half a pint of Veal Gravy or Milk, a
little Pepper and Salt, and an ounce of Butter rubbed
with a tablespoonful of Flour, stir them together, and
set them over a gentle fire, to stew slowly till tender;
— skim and strain it.
Obs. — It will be a great improvement to this, and
the two following Sauces, to add to them the juice of
half a dozen Mushrooms, prepared the day before, by
sprinkling them with salt, the same as when you make
Catsup; or add a large spoonful of good Double
Mushroom Catsup, (No. 439.)
See Quintessence of Mushrooms, (No. 440.)
N. B. Much as we love the flavour of Mushrooms, —
we must enter our protest against their being eaten in
substance, — when the morbid effects they produce too
often prove them worthy of the appellations Seneca
gave them, " Voluptuous Poison," " lethal luxury,"
&c. ; and we caution those who cannot refrain from
indulging their palate with the seducing rehsh of this
deceitful Fungus, to masticate it diligently.
318 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
We du not believe that Mushrooms are nutritive, —
every one knows they are often dangerously indi-
gestible, — therefore the Rational Epicure will be con-
tent with extracting the flavour from them — which is
obtained in the utmost perfection by the process
directed in (No. 439.)
Mus/iruom Sauce, Broiin. — (No. 306.)
Put the Muslirooms into half a pint of Beef Gravy
(No. 186), or (No. 329); tliicken with Flour and But-
ter; and proceed as above.
Mushroom Sauce, Extempore. — (No. 307.)
Proceed as directed in (No. 2.56), to melt Butter, —
only, instead of two tablespoonsful of Milk, put in two
of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439 or 40) ; — or add it to
thickened Broth, Gravy, or iNIock Turtle Soup, &c. —
or put in (No. 296.)
Ohs. This is a welcome Relish with Fish — Poultry
— or Chops and »Steaks, &c. A couple of Quarts of
good Catsup (No. 439), will make more good Sauce
than ten times its cost of Meat, &c.
Walnut Catsup will give you another variety ; and
Ball's Cavice, which is excellent, and sold at No.
81, New Bond Street.
Voor Mans Sauce. — {^o. 310.)
Pick a handful of Parsley leaves from the stalks,
mince them very fine, strew over a little salt ; shred
fine half a dozen young green Onions, add these to the
Parsley, and put them into a sauceboat, with three
tablespoonsful of Oil, and five of Vinegar ; add some
prround Black Pepper and Salt; stir together, an^l
send it up.
Pickled French Beans or Gherkins, cut fine, may be
added — or a little grated Horseradish.
06^. — This Sauce is in much esteem in France,
where people of taste, weary of rich dishes^ to obtain
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 319
the charm of variety, occasionally order the fare of the
Peasant.
" the Rich, tir'd with continual Feasts,
For change become their next poor Tenant's guests ;
Drink hearty draughts of Ale from plain brown bowls.
And snatch the homely Rasher from the Coals."
DuYDEN's Prologue to " All for Love."
The Spaniard's Gar lick Gravy. — (No. 311.) — See also
(No. 272.)
Slice a pound and a half of Veal, or Beef, pepper
and salt it, lay it in a stewpan v/ith a couple of Carrots
split, and four cloves of Garlick sliced, a quarter pound
of sliced Ham, and a large spoonful of water ; — set
the stewpan over a gentle fire, and watch v/hen the
meat begins to stick to the pan ; when it does, turn it,
and let it be very well brov/ned, (but take care it is not
at all burnt ;) then dredge it with flour, and pour in
a quart of broth, a bunch of Sweet Herbs, a couple
of Cloves bruised, and slice in a Lemon; set it on
again, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half
longer; then take off the fat, and strain the gravy
from the ingredients, by pouring it through a napkin,
straining, and pressing it very hard.
Obs. — This, it is said, was the secret of the Old
Spaniard, who kept the House called by that name on
Hampstead Heath.
Those who love Garlick, will find it an extremely
rich relish.
Mr. Michael Kelly's* Sauce for Boiled Tripe,
Calf-head, or Cow-heel— (No. 311*.)
Garlick Vinegar, a tablespoonful, — of Mustard,
Brown Sugar, and Black Pepper, a teaspoonful each ;
stirred into half a pint of oiled melted butter.
Mr. Kelly's Sauce Piquante.
Pound a tablespoonful of Capers, — and one of
* Composer and Director of the Music at the Theatre-Royal, Drury Lane,
and the Italian Opera.
320 GRAVIES AND SAUOES.
minced Parsley, — as fine as possible ; then add the
yolks of three hard Eggs, rub them well together with
a tablespoonful of Mustard, — bone six Anchovies,
and pound them, rub them through a hair sieve, and
mix with two tablespoonsful of Oil, one of Vinegar,
one of Shallot ditto, and a few grains of Cayenne
Pepper; rub all these well together in a mortar, till
thoroughly incorporated, then stir them into half a
pint of good Gravy, or melted Butter, and put the
whole through a sieve.
Fried Parsley. — (No. 317.)
Let it be nicely picked and washed, then put into a
cloth, and swung backwards and forwards till it is
perfectly dry ; — put it into a pan of hot fat, fry it
quick, and have a slice ready to take it out the moment
it is crisp, (in another moment it will be spoilt;) put it
on a sieve, or coarse cloth, before the fire to drain.
Criq) Parsley. — (No. 318.)
Pick and wash young Parsley, shake it in a dry cloth
to drain the water from it; spread it on a sheet of
clean paper, in a Dutch oven before the fire, and turn
it frequently until it is quite crisp. — This is a much
more easy way of preparing it than Frying it, — which
is not seldom ill done.
Obs. — A very pretty garnish for Lamb Chops, Fish,
&c.
Fried Bread Sippets. —(No. 319.)
Cut a slice of Bread about a quarter of an inch
thick, divide it with a sharp knife into pieces two
inches square ; —shape these into Triangles or Crosses :
— put some very clean Fat into an iron Fryingpan ;
when it is hot, put in the sippets, and fry them a
delicate light brown ; take them up with a Fish-slice,
and drain them well from Fat, turning them occasion-
ally ; — this will take a quarter of an hour. Keep the
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 321
pan at such a distance from the fire, that the fat may
be hot enough to brown without burning ; — this is
a requisite precaution in frying delicate thin things.
Obs. — These are a pretfi/ ganiis/i, and very welcome
accompaniment and improvement to the finest made
Dishes : — they may also be sent up with Pease and
other Soups; — but when intended for Soups, the
Bread must be cut into bits, about half an inch square.
N. B. If these are not done very ddkately clean and
dry, they are uneatable.
Fried Bread Crumbs. — (No. 320.)
Rub Bread (which has been baked two days) through
a wire sieve, or Cullender; — or you may rub them in
a cloth till they are as fine as if they had been grated,
and sifted ; put them into a stewpan with a couple
of ounces of Butter, place it over a moderate fire, and
stir them about with a wooden spoon till they are the
colour of a Guinea; spread them on a sieve, and let
them stand ten minutes to drain, turning them fre-
quently.
Obs. — Fried Crumbs are sent up with roasted Sweet-
breads, — or Larks, — Pheasants, — Partridges, — -
Woodcocks, — and Grouse, — or Moor Game, — espe-
cially if they have been kept long enough.
Bread Sauce.— (No. 321.)
Put a small teacupful of Bread-Crumbs into a stew-
pan, pour on it as much milk as it will soak up, and a
little more; or, instead of the milk, take the Giblets,
head, neck, and legs, &c. of the Poultry, &c. and
stew themj and moisten the bread with this liquor;
put it on the fire with a middling sized Onion, and a
dozen hemes of Pepper or Allspice, or a little Mace ;
let it boil, then stir it well, and let it simmer till it is
quite stiff, and then put to it about two tablespoonsful
of Cream or melted Butter, or a little good Broth;
take out the Onion and Pepper, and it is ready.
p5
322 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Obs. — ^ This is an excellent accompaniment to Game
and Poultry, &c. and a good vehicle for receiving
various flavours from the Magazine of Taste (No.
463.)
Rice Sauce. — (^0. 321*.)
Steep a quarter pound of Rice in a pint of milk,
with Onion, Pepper, &ic. as in the last receipt ; when
the rice is quite tender (take out the spice), rub it
through a sieve into a clean stewpan ; if too thick, put
a little milk or cream to it.
Oh.s. — This is a very delicate White sauce ; — and
at elegant ^tables, is frequently served instead of Bread
Sauce.
Browning — (No. 322.)
Is a convenient article to colour those Soups or
Sauces, of v.diich it is supposed their deep brown com-
plexion denotes the strength and savourioess of the
composition.
Burnt Sugar is also a favourite ingredient with the
Brewers, who use it under the name of " Essentia
Bina" to colour their Beer ; — it is also employed by the
Brandy makers, in considerable quantity, to colour
Brandy ; to which, besides enriching its complexion,
it gives that sweetish taste, and fulness in the mouth,
which custom has taught Brandy drinkers to admire,
and prefer to the finest Cogniac in its genuine state.
When employed for Culinary Purposes, this is some-
times made with strong Gravy, or Walnut Catsup.
Those who like a gout of Acid may add a little Walnut
Pickle.
It will hardly be told from what is commonly called
*'^ genuine Japanese Soy*," (for which it is a very good
substitute.) Burnt Treacle, or Sugar, — the Peels of
♦ " By the best accounts T can find, Sot is a preparation from tlie seeds of a
species of the Dotichos, prepared by a fermentation of the farina of this seed
in a strong lixivium of common salt."--CuLLE?i's 3Iat. Med, vol. i. p. 430.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 323
Walnuts, — Cayenne pepper, — or Capsicums, — or
Chilies, — Vinegar, — Garlick, — and pickled Her-
rings, (especially the Dutch) — Sardinias, — or Sprats,
— appear to be the bases of almost all the Sauces
which now, to use the maker's phrase, — stand unri-
valled.
Although indefatigable research and experiment has
put us in possession of these compositions, — it would
not be quite fair, to enrich the Cook, at the expense
of the Oilman, &c. — we hope we have said enough on
these subjects, to satisfy " the Rational Epicure."
Put half a pound of pounded Lump Sugar, and a
tablespoonful of water, into a clean iron saucepan, set
it over a slow fire, and keep stirring it with a wooden
spoon till it becomes a bright brown colour, and
begins to smoke; then add to it an ounce of salt,
and dilute it by degrees with water, till it is the
thickness of Soy; let it boil, take off the scum,
and strain the liquor into bottles, which must be v/ell
stopped : if you have not any of this by you, and you
wish to darken the colour of your sauces, pound a
teaspoonful of lump sugar, and put into an iron spoon,
with as much v/ater as will dissolve it; hold it over a
quick lire till it becomes of a very dark brov/n colour ;
mix it with the soup, &c. while it is hot.
Obs. — Most of the preparations under this title are
a medley of Burnt Butter, — Spices, — Catsup, — Wine,
&c. We recommend the Rational Epicure to be content
with the natural colour of Soups and Sauces, which, to a
well-educated Palate, are much more agreeable, with-
out any of these empyreumatic additions; — however
they may please the Eye, they plague the Stomach
most grievously, so '' open your Mouth, and shut your
Eyesr
For the sake of producing a pretty colour, " Cheese,'^
— Cayenne (No. 404), — ^'Essence of Anchovy," (No. 433),
&c. are frequently adulterated with a colouring matter
324 GR.WIES AND SAUCES.
cout^xums; Red Lend ! ! — See Accum on the Adu/iera^
tioii of Food, 2d Edit. l-2mo. 1820.
A scientific " hommc dc houclie de France' observes —
" The uenerality of Cooks calcine Bones, till they are
as black as a Coal, and throw thein hissin^j; hot into
the stewpan, to give a brown colour to their Broths.
These ino:redients, under the appearante of a nourish-
iui; Gravy, enveloj)«- our food \vitli stimulating; acid and
corrosive Poison.
" Roux or Thickening (No. 257), if not made very
carefully, produces exactly the same effect; and the
juices of Beef, or Veal, burnt over a hot fire, to g;ive a
rich colour to 8ou|) or ^^auces, grievously offend the
Stomach, and create the most distressing Indigestions.
'* The judicious Cook will refuse the help of these
incendiary articles ; which ignorance, or quackery,
only employ, — not only at the expense of the credit
of the cook, but the health of her employers."
N. B. Ihe BEST BROWNING is good Home-made
Glaze (No. 252), — Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), — or
Claret, or Port Wine. See also (No. 257) ; — or cut
meat into slice>, and broil them brown, and then stew
them.
Graivfnr Roa.st Meat. —(No. 326.)
Most joints will afford sufficient trimmings, &:c. to
make half a pint of plain Gravy, which you may colour
with a few drops of (No. 322;; — fur those that do
not, about half an hour before you think the meat will
be done, mix a saltspoonful of Salt, with a full quarter
pint of boiling Water; drop this by degrc<'6 on the
brown parts of the joint; set a dish under to catch it,
(the meat will soon brown again) ; set it by, — as it
cools, the fat will settle on the surface ; when the
meat is ready, remove this, and warm up the gravy,
and pour it into the dish.
The Common Method is, when the meat is in the
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 325
dish you intend to send it up in, to mix half a tea-
spoonful of Salt in a quarter pint of boiling water,
and to drop some of this over the corners and under-
side of the meat, and to pour the rest through the
hole the spit came out of, -^ and some pierce the
inferior parts of the joint with a sharp skewer.
The following Receipt was given us by a very good
Cook: — You may make good Browning for Roast
Meat and Poultry, by saving the Brozvn Bits of Roast
Meat or Broiled ; cut them small, put them into a basin,
cover them with boiling water, and put them away till
next day ; then put it into a saucepan, let it boil two or
three minutes, strain it through a sieve into a basin, and
put it away for use. When you want Gravy for Roast
Meat, put two tablespoonsful into half a pint of boiling
water with a little salt ; — if for Roasted Veal, put three
tablespoonsful into half a pint of thin melted Butter.
N. B. The Gravy which comes down in the dish, the
Cook (if she is a good housewife) will preserve to enrich
Hashes or little Made Dishes, &c.
Obs. — Some Culinary professors, who think nothing
can be excellent, that is not extravagant, — call this
" Scots Gravy;" not, I believe, intending it, as it
certainly is, a compliment to the laudable, and rational
frugality, of that intelligent, and sober-minded People.
N. B. '1 his gravy should be brought to table in a
Sauce-boat ; preserve the intrinsic Gravy which flows
from the meat, in the Argyll.
Gravy for Boiled Meat — (No. 327.)
May be made with Parings and Trimmings, — or
pour from a quarter to half a pint of the liquor in
which the Meat was boiled, into the dish with it, and
pierce the inferior part of the joint with a sharp skewer.
Wow Wow Sauce for Stewed or Bouilli Beef. —
(No. 328.)
Chop some Parsley leaves very finely, quarter two
326 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
or three pickled Cucu?)ibers, or Walnuts, and divide
them into small squares, and set them by ready ; —
put into a saucepan a bit of Butter as big- as an e2:g ;
when it is melted, stir to it a tablespoonful of fine
Flour, and al>out half a pint of the Broth in which the
Beef was boiled ; add a tablespoonful of Vineiz:ar, the
like quantity of Mushroom Catsup, or Port Wine, or
both, and a tcaspoonful of made Mustard ; let it
simmer tun;cther till it is as thick as you wish it, put
in the Parsley and Pickles to get warm, ani pour it
over the Beef, — or rather send it ip in a Sauce-
tureen.
Ob.s, — If you think the above not sufficiently -piquantc,
add to it some Capers, or a minced Shallot, or one
or two teaspoonsful of Shal'ot Wine (No. 402), — or
Essence of Anchovy, — or Basil (No 397), — Elder, or
Tarragon (No. 396), or Horseradish (No. 399*), or
Burnet Vinei^ar ; or strew over the meat, Carrots and
Turnips cut into dice, — minced Capers, — Walnuts, —
Red Cabbaje, — pickled Cucumbers, — or French
Beans, &c.
Beef Gravy Sauce, — (No. 329) — or Bro-u;n Sauce
for Ragouts, Game, Poultry, Fi^/i, <!)c.
If you want Gravy immediately, see (No. 307), or
(No. 252), if you have time enough.
Furnish a thick and well-tinned Stewpan with a tliin
slice of fat Ham or Bacon, or an ounce of Butter, and a
middling sized Onion ; on this, lay a pound of nice
juicy Gravy Beet, (as the object in making Gravy is to
extract the nutritious succulence of the Meat, it must
be beaten to comminute the containing vessels, and
scored to augment the surface to the action of the
water), cover the Stewpan, and set it on a slow fire ;
when the meat begins to brown, turn it about, and let
it get slightly browned, (but take care it is not at alt
buntt :) then pour in a pint and a half of boiling water,
set the pan on the fire ; when it boils, carefully catch
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 327
the scum, — and then put in a crust of Bread toasted
brown, (don't burn it)— a sprig of winter Savory, or
Lemon Thyme and Parsley — a roll of thin cut Lemon
Peel, a dozen berries of Allspice, and a dozen of Black
Pepper ; cover the stewpan close, and let it stexv verij
gently for about two hours, then strain it through a
sieve into a basin. Now, if you wish to thicken it,
set a clean stewpan over a slow five, with about an
ounce of Butter in it ; when it is melted, dredge to it
(by degrees) as much flour as will dry it up, stirring
them well together ; when thoroughly mixed, pour in
a little of the Gravy, — stir it well together, and add
the remainder by degrees ; set it over the fire, let it
simmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, and
skim ofi' the fat, &c. as it rises ; when it is about as
thick as cream, squeeze it through a tammis, or fine
sieve, — and you will have a fine rich Brown Sauce, at a
very moderate Expense, and without much trouble.
Obs. — If you wish to make it still more Relishing, — if
it is for Poult ri/, you may pound the Liver with a bit of
Butter, rub it through a sieve, and stir it into the Sauce
when you put in the thickening. For a Ragout, or
Game, add at the same time a tablespoonful of Mush-
room Catsup, or (No. 343)*, or (No. 429), or a few
drops of (No. 422), the juice of half a Lemon, and a roll
of the rind pared thin, a tablespoonful of Port, or other
wine, (Claret is best), and a few grains of Cayenne
Pepper; — or use double the quantity of Meat, — or add
a bit of Glaze, or Portable Soup (No. 252), to it.
You may vary the flavour, by sometimes adding a
little Basil, or Burnet Wine, (No. 397), or Tarragon
* One of " les Bonnes homines de Boucke de Fraiice" orders the follow-
ing addition for Game Gravy : — " For a pint, par-roast a Partridge or a
Pigeon; cut off the meat of it, pound it in a mortar, and put it into the Stew-
pan when yon thicken xht. Sauce." — IVe do not recommend either -Soup or
>Saiice to be thickened,— becanse it requires (to give it the same quickness
on the Palate it had before it was thickened) double the quantity of Piquante
materials, — which are thus smuggled down the Red Lane, without affording
any amusement to the Mouth, and at the risk of highly offending the Stomach^
328 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Vinegar (No. 396), or a wine-glass of Quintessence of
Mushrooms (No. 450).
See the Magazine of Taste, (No. 463).
N. B. This is an excellent Gravy ; and at a large
Dinner, a pint of it should be placed at each end of
the Table — it is equal to the most costly Consommt of
the Parisian Kitchen,
Those families who are frequently in want of Gravy,
Sauces, c^c. (without plenty of which, no Cook can
support the credit of her Kitchen), sliould Ixccp a stock
of Portable Soup or Glaze, see (No. 252): this
will make Graxy mmcdiattly.
Game Gravy. — (No. 337.)
See Obs. to (No. 329).
Orange Graxy Sauce, for JViId Ducks, Ji'ido-con, and
rcaf,\]c,~-{So. 338.)
Set on a Saucepan with half a pint of \'eal Gravy
(No. 192), add to it half a dozen leaves of Basil, "a
small Onion, and a roll of Orange or Lemon Peel, and
let it boil up for a few minutes, and strain it off. Put
to the clear gravy the juice of a Seville Orange, or
Lemon, half a teaspoonful of Salt, the same of Pepper,
and a glass of Red Wine; send it up hot, Eshallot
and Cayenne may be added.
Obi. — This is an excellent Sauce for all kinds of
Wild water fowl.
The common way of gashing the breast, and squeezing
in an Orange, cools and hardens the flesh, and compels
every one to cat Duck that way; some people like
wild fowl very little done, and without any Sauce.
Gravies should always be sent up in a boat; they
keep hot longer ; and it leaves it to the choice of the
Company to partake it or not.
Bonne Bouciie, for Goose, Duck, or Roast
Pork. — (No. 341.)
Mix a teaspoonful of made Mustard, a saltspoonful
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 329
of Salt, and a few grains of Cayenne, in a large wine-
glassful of Claretj or Port wine* ; pour it into the
Goose by a slit in the apron, just before serving upf;
or, as all the Company may not like it, stir it into a quarter
of a pint of thick melted Butter, or thickened Gravy, and
send it up in a Boat. See also Sage and Onion Sauce,
(No. 300.)
Or,
A Favourite RELisiiybr Roast Pork or GeesCj d)'c,
is, — two ounces of leaves of Green Sage, an ounce of
fresh Lemon Peel, pared thin, same of Salt, minced
Shallot, and half a drachm of Cayenne Pepper, ditto
of Citric Acid, steeped for a fortnight in a pint of
Claret; shake it up well every day ; let it stand a day
to settle, and decant the clear liquor, — bottle it and
cork it close, — a tablespoonful, or more, in a quarter
pint of Gravy, or melted Butter.
Robert Sauce for Roast Pork or Geese, &c. — (No. 342.)
Put an ounce of Butter into a Pint Stewpan; when
it is melted, add to it half an ounce of Onion minced
very fine : turn it with a wooden spoon, till it takes a
light brown colour, then stir in a tablespoonful of
Flour, a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup, (with, or
without the like quantity of Port wine,) half a pint of
Broth, or water, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of
Pepper, the same of Salt, give them a boil, then add
a teaspoonful of Mustard, and the juice of half a Lemon,
or one or two teaspoonsful of Vinegar, or Basil (No. 397),
or Tarragon (No, 396), or Burnet Vinegar (No. 399.)
Obs. — The French call this " Sauce Robert" (from
the name of the cook who invented it), and are very fond
of it with many things, which Mary Smith, in the
• To this some add a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), and
instead of the saltspoonful of Salt, a feaspoonfnl of Essence of Anchovy
(No. 433.) If the above articles are rubbed together in a ruortar, and put
into a close stopped botile, tliey will keep for some time.
t Thus far the above is from Dr. Hunter's " CuUna," who says it is a
eecret worth knowing: — we agree with him, and so tell it here ; with a little
addition, which we tliiuk renders ii a still moie gratifying couiuiuuicatlon.
330 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
''Complete Housekeeper^" Svo. 1772, p. 105, translates
Rol-Boat-Sauce. See Obs. to (No. 529.)
Turtle Sauce. — (No. 343.)
Put into your stewpan a pint of Beef Gravy thick-
ened (No. 329); add to this some of the following
Essence of Turtle (No. 343'), or a wineglass of Madeira,
the juice and peel of half a Lemon, a few leaves of
Basil*, an Eshallot quartered, a few grains of Cayenne
pepper, or Curry powder, and a little llsscuce of An-
chovy ; let them simmer together for five minutes, and
strain through a tammis ; — you may introduce a dozen
Turtle Forcemeat Balls ; see Receipt (No. 380), &c.
Qbs. — This is the Sauce for boiled or hashed Calfs
head, — Stewed Veal, — or any dish you dress Turtle
fashion.
The far-ft'tcht and dear-bought Turtle owes its high
rank on the list of savoury Bu/ines Bouches to the
relishing and piquante sauce that is made for it ; —
without, it would be as insipid as any other fish is
without Sauce. See Obs. to (No. 493.)
Essence of Turtle. — (No. 343*.)
Kssence of Anchovy (No. 433), one wincglassful.
Shaliut Wine (No. 402), one and a half ditto.
Basil Wine (No. 397), four ditto.
Mushroom Catsup (No. 439). two ditto.
Concrete Lemon Acid, one drachm, or some Artifi-
cial Lemon Juice (No. 407*.)
Lemon Peel, rt/v/ thinli^ pared, three quarters of an
ounce.
Curry Powder (No. 455), a quarter of an ounce.
Steep for a week to get the flavour of the Lemon
Peel, &c.
Ohs. — This is ver}' convenient, to extemporaneously
flavour Soup, Sauce, or Potted Meats, Ragouts, Sa-
voury Patties, Ties, &c. &c.
• See Basil Wine, (No. 397.)
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 331
JVine Sauce, for Venison or Hare. — (No. 344.)
A quarter of a pint of Claret or Port wine, the same
quantity of plain unflavoured Mutton Gravy (No. 347),
and a tablespoonful of Currant Jelly ; let it just boil up,
and send it to table in a sauce-boat.
Sharp Sauce for Venison. — (No. 345.)
Put into a silver, or very clean and well tinned
saucepan, half a pint of the best white wine vinegar,
and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar pounded ; set it
over the fire, and let it simmer gently : skim it care-
fully, pour it through a tammis or fine sieve, and send
it up in a basin.
Obs. — Some people like this better than the Sweet
Wine sauces,
Sii-eet Sauce for Venison or Hare. — (No. 346.)
Put some Currant Jelly into a stewpan, when it is
melted, pour it into a sauce boat.
N. B. Many send it to table without melting. To
make Currant Jellj/, see (No. 479*.)
This is a more salubrious relish than either Spice or
Salt, and when the Palate protests against animal food
unless its flavour be masked, — Currant Jelly is a good
accompaniment to Roasted or Hashed Meats.
Mutton Grain/, for Venison or Hare. — (No. 347.)
The best gravy for Venison is that made with the
trimmings of the Joint : if this is all used, and you
have no undressed Venison, cut a scrag of mutton in
pieces, broil it a little brown, then put it into a clean
stewpan, with a quart of boiling water, cover it close,
and let it simmer gently for an hour : now uncover the
stewpan, and let it reduce to three quarters of a pint,
pour it through a hair sieve, take the fat off, and send
it up in a boat. — It is only to be seasoned with a little
salt, that it may not overpower the natural flavour of
332 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
the meat. You may colour it with a very little ot
(No. 3-22.)
N. B. Some prefer the unseasoned Beef Gravy,
(No. 186), which vou may make in five minutes with
(No. 252.)
The Queen's Gu.wy of Mlttton, as made by her
Majesty's " Escuycr de Cuisine," Monsieur La Montagne.
*' Roast a juicy lee: of Mutton three quarters, then gash
it in several places, and press out the juice by a screw
press." — From Sir Kenklm DioBv'h Cookery , 18mo.
Lotidon, 1669.
Cuny Sauce — (No. '-548.)
Is made by stirring; a sufticient quantity of Curry
stulf, see (No 4.')0), into gravy or melted butter, or
onion sauce, (Nos. 297, 298), or onion gravy (No. 299
or 339.)
The compositions of Curry Powder and the Palates
of those who eat it vary so much, that we cannot re-
commend any specific quantity. The Cook must add
it by degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take care
not to put in too much.
Obs. — The Curry powder (No. 455,) approximates
more nearly to the best Indian Curry stuft", and is an
agreeable and well blended mixture of this class of
aromatics.
N. B. To dress Curries, see (No. 497.)
Essence uf Ham. — (No. 351.)
Essence of Ham and of Beef may be purchased
at the Eating-houses which cut up those joints, — the
former for half a crown or three shdlings a Quart : it is
therefore a most Economical relish for Made Dishes,
and to give piquance to Sauces, &c.
Grill Sauce,— (So. 355.)
To half a pint of Gravy (No. 329), add an ounce of
fresh Butter, and a tablespoonful of Flour, previously
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 333^^
well rubbed together, the same of Mushroom, or
Walm.it Catsup, — two teaspoonsful of Lemon juice, one
of made Mustard, one of minced Capers, half a one of
black Pepper, a quarter of the rind of a Lemon, grated
very thin, a teaspoonful of Essence of Anchovies, and a
little Shallot wine (No. 402), or a very small piece of
minced Shallot, and a little Chili Vinegar (No. 405), or
a few grains of Cayenne, simmer together for a few mi-
nutes, and pour a little of it over the Grill, and send
up the rest in a sauce tureen. For Anchovy toasts,
(No. 573 or 538,)
Or,
Sauce d la Tar fare.
Pound in a mortar three hard yolks of Eggs, put
them into a "Basin, and add half a tablespoonful of
made Mustard, and a little Pepper and Salt, — pour to
it by degrees, stirring it fast all the while, about two
wineglassesful of saiad oil, — stir it together till it
comes to a good thickness.
N. B. A little Tarragon or Chervil minced very finelv,
and a little Vinegar, may be added, or some of the
ingredients enumerated in (No. 372.)
Ohs. — This from the French Artist who wrote the
Receipt for dressing a Turtle.
Obi;. — These <ire piquante relishes for Anchovy toasts
(No. 573), or (No. 538); for Broiled Devils, &c.,
" Veritable sauce (VEnfer," see (No. 538), and a re-
freshing excitement for those idle palates, who are as
incessantly mumbling out '^piquante, piquante," as
Parrots do " Pretty Foil, Fretty Foil J'
**For palates i^rown callous almost to disease,
Who peppers the highest is surest to please,"
Goldsmith.
SAUCE/br Steaks, or Chops, Cutlets, S^c. —
(No. 356.) See also (^0, 331.)
Take your Chops out of the Frying Pan ; — for a
pound of meat, keep a tablespoonful of the Fat in the
3d4' GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Pan, or put in about an ounce of Butter, — put to it as
much flour as will make it a paste, rub it well together
over the fire till they are a little brown, — then add as
much boiling water as will reduce it to the thickness of
good Cream, and a tablespoonful of Mushroom, or
Walnut Catsup, or Pickle, or Browning (No. 322), or
(No. 449); — let it boil together a few minutes, and
pour it through a sieve to the Steaks, Szc.
Obs, — 'Jo the above is sometimes added a sliced
Onion, or a minced Eshallot, with a tablespoonful of
Port wine, or a little Shallot wine (Nos. 402, 423, or
135.) Garnish with finely scraped Horseradish or
pickled Walnuts, Gherkins, &c. Some V>vtf Eaters
like chopped Shallots in one Saucer and Horseradish
grated in Vinegar in another. Broiled Mushrooms are
favourite relishes to Beef Steaks.
Sauce Piquniitefur Cold Meaty Game, Puuliiy, Fish, ^c.,
or Salads, — {>io. 359.) See aho (No. 372), and
Cucumber J'wes;ar (Nos. 399 and 453.)
Pound in a mortar the yolks of two eggs that have
been boiled hard (>^. 547), v.ith a mustard-spoonful
of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt, add two
tablespoonsful of salad oil, mix well, and then add
three tablespoonsful of Vinegar, rub it up well till it is
quite smooth, and pass it through a tarn mis or sieve.
Obs. — To the above some add an Anchovy or a
tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup, or Walnut Pickle,
some finely chopped Parsley, — grated Horseradish, —
or young Onions minced, or Burnet (No. 399), Horse-
radish (No. 399* or 402), — or Tarragon, or Elder
Vinegar (No. 396),<&:c. and Cayenne or minced Pickles,
Capers, Arc. This is a piquanfe relish for Lobsters,
Crabs, cold fish, &c.
Sauce for Hashes of Mutton, or Bekf. — (No. 360.)
See also (Nos. 451, 4S5),and to make plain Hash
(No. 486.)
Unless you are quite sure you perfectly understand
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 335
the Palate of those you are working for, — show those
who are to eat the Hash this Receipt, and beg of them
to direct you how they zvish it seasoned.
Half the number of the Ingredients enumerated
will be more than enough, — but as it is a Receipt
so often wanted, we have given variety. See also
(No. 486.)
To prepare the Meat, see (No. 484.)
Chop the bones and fragments of the joint, &c.,
and put them into a stewpan, and cover them with
boiling water, six berries of Black pepper, the same of
Allspice, a small bundle of Parsley, half a head of Celery
cut in pieces, and a small sprig of Savory, or Lemon-
thynie, or sweet Marjoram ; cover up, and let it simmer
gently for half an hour.
Slice half an ounce of Onion, and put it into a stewpan
with an ounce of Butter, fry it over a sharp fire for
about a couple of minutes, till it takes a little colour ;
then stir in as much Flour as will make it a stiff paste,
and by degrees mix with it the gravy you have made
from the bones, &c. ; let it boil very gently for about
a quarter of an hour, till it is the consistence of thick
cream, strain it through a tammis or sieve into a basin ;
put it back into the stewpan ; to season it, see
(No. 451), or cut in a few pickled Onions, — or Wal-
nuts, — or a couple of Gherkins, — and a tabiespoonful
of Mushroom Catsup, — or Walnut or other Pickle
Liquor, — or some Capers, and Caper Liquor, — or a
tabiespoonful of Ale, — or a little Shallot, or Tarragon
Vinegar; cover the bottom of the dish with Sippets of
Bread, (that they may become savoury reservoirs of
Gravy), which some toast and cut into triangles, — Yow
may garnish it with fried Bread Sippets (No. 319.)
N. B. To HASH MEAT IN PERFECTION, it should
be laid in this Gravy only just long enough to get pro-
perly warm through.
Obs, — If any of the gravy that was sent up with, or
336 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
ran from the joint when it was roasted, be left, it will,
be a great improvement to the Hash.
If you wish to make Mock Venison, — instead of
the Onion, put in two or three Cloves, a tablespoonful
of Currant Jelly, and the same quantity of Claret or
Port wine, instead of the Catsup.
You may make a Curry Hash by adding some of
(No. 455.)
N. B. A pint of (No. 329) is an excellent Gravy, to
warm up either Meat or Poultry,
Sauce for Hashed ur Minced Veal. — (No. 361.)
See (No. 511.)
1 ake tb.e ])ones of cold roast or boiled Veal, dredge
them well with flour, and put them into a stewpan,
with a jjint and a half of broth or water, a small Onion,
a little grated or finely minced Lemon-peel, or the peel
of a quarter of a small Lemon, pared as thin as possible,
half a teaspoonfiil of salt, and a blade of pounded
Mace; — to Thicken it, rub a tablespoonful of Flour
into half an ounce of Butter; stir it into the broth, and
set it on the fire, and let it lioil very gently for about
half an hour, strain through a tammis or sieve, and it
is ready to put to the veal to warm up, which is to be
(lone by placing tlie stewpan by the side of the fire.
Squeeze in half a lemon, and cover the bottom of the
dish with toasted bread sippets cut into triangles, and
garnish the disli with slices of Ham or Bacon. See
(Nos. 526 and 527.)
0^5.— Read (No. 484); a little Basil Wine (No. 397),
gives an agreeable vegetable relish to Hashed Veal.
Bechamel, by English Cooks com?nonli/ called VJ^uiTE
Sauce. — (No. 364.) '
Cut in square pieces half an inch thick, two pounds
of lean Veal, half a pound of lean Ham, melt in a
stewpan two ounces of Butter ; when melted, let the
whole simmer until it is ready to catch at the Bottom,
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 337
(it requires great attention, as if it happen to catch at
the bottom of the stewpan, it will spoil the look of your
Sauce), then add to it three tablespoonsful of flour; when
well mixed, add to it three pints of broth or water,
pour a little at a time, that the thickening be smooth,
stir it until it boil, put the stewpan on the corner of the
stove to boil gently for two hours, season it with four
cloves, one onion, twelve peppercorns, a blade of mace,
a few mushrooms, and a fagot made of parsley, a sprig
of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let the Sauce reduce to a
quart, skim the fat off, and strain it through a tammis
cloth.
To make a Bechamel Sauce, add to a quart of the
above, a pint of good cream, stir it until it is reduced
to a good thickness; a few mushrooms give a good
flavour to that Sauce; strain it through a tammis
cloth.
Ohs. — The above was given us by a French Artist.
A more Economical Method of making a Pint of White
Sauce. — (No. 365, No. 2.)
Put equal parts of broth and milk into a stewpan
with an onion and a blade of mace, set on the fire to
boil ten minutes, have ready and rub together on a
plate an ounce of Flour and Butter, put it into the
stewpan, stir it well till it boils up, then stand it near
the fire or stove, stirring it every now and then till it
becomes quite smooth, then strain it through a sieve
into a basin, put it back into the stewpan, season it
with salt and the juice of a small lemon, beat up the
yolks of two Eggs well with about three tablespoonsful
of milk, strain it through a sieve into your Sauce, stir
it well and keep it near the fire, but be sure and do
not let it boil, for it will curdle.
Obs. — A convenient veil for boiled Fowls, &c. whose
complexions are not inviting.
Mem.—Wiih the assistance of the Magazine of Taste
Q
338 GRAVIES AXD SAUCES.
(Xo. 463) you may give this Sauce a variety of
Havours.
Obs. — Bechamel implies a thick white Sauce,
approaching to a batter, — and takes its name from a
wealthy French Marquess, Jiiditrc (riwtel de Louis XIV.
and famous for his patronage of '' Ics OfTiciers de Bouche,"
— who have immortalized him, by calling by his name
this delicate composition.
Most of the French Sauces take their name from the
person whose palate thev first pleased, as 'W/ la yiaw-
tenon ;" or from some famous Cook who invented them,
as " Sauce Robert," " a la M()?}tizcur" &c.
We have in the English kitchen, our " Argyll" for
Gravy, and the little *' Sanduicii" monuments " ase
perennius,"
All. I llins MONTTITH
" II.u, by one vessel, sav'd his Nanif from Peatli."
King's .Irt of Cookery.
Puiiradc Sauce. — (No. 365.)
Tliis, as its title tells us, is a Sauce of French ex-
traction. The following receipt is from " La Cuisinierc
Bourgeoise," page 408.
" Put a bit of butter as big as an egg into a stevvpaii
with two or three (bits of) onion, carrot, and turnip, cut
in slices, two shallots, two cloves, a bay leaf, thyme,
and basil, keep turning them in the pan till they get a
little colour, — shake in some flour, and add a glass of
red Wine, a glass of water, and a spoonful of Vinegar,
and a little Pepper and Salt, boil half an hour, skim
and strain it."
Mustard i?i a Minute. — (No. 369.)
Mix very gradually, and rub together in a mortar,
an ounce of flour of Mustard, with three tablespoonsful
of Milk, (cream is better), half a teaspoonful of Salt,
and the same of sugar, rub them well together till quite
smooth.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 339
Obs. — Mustard made in this manner, is not at all
bitter, and is therefore instantly ready for the table.
N.B. It has been said that Flour of Mustard is
sometimes adulterated with common flour, &c. &c.
The Mustard sold at Apothecaries' Hall, is
excellent, where may also be had all sorts of Peppers,
Spices, &c. of the best quality, and very finely pow-
dered.
Mustard. — (No. 370.)
Mix (by deg^rees, by rubbing together in a mortar)
the best Durham flour of Mustard, with cold water, in
which scraped Horseradish has been boiled, )-ub it ivcll
togtther till it is perftctl]/ smooth ; it will keep in a stone
jar closely stopped, for a fortnight; — only put as much
into the Mustard pot as will be used in a day or two.
The Ready made Mustard, prepared at the oil
shops, is mixed with about one-fourth part salt: this is
done to preserve it, if it is to be kept long ; otherwise,
by all means omit it. — The best way of eating Salt, is
in substance.
*** See also Recipe (No. 427.)
Obs. — We believe Mustard is the best of all the
stimulants that are employed to give energy to the
Digestive OTgans. — Some opulent Epicures mix it
with Sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled, or flavoured
Vinegar, instead of Horseradish water.
The French flavour their Mustard with Champ?jgne
and other \yines, — or with Vinegar flavoured with
Capers, — Anchovies, — Tarragon, — Elder, — Basil,
— Burnet, — Garlick, — Shallot, — or Celery, — see
(No, 395 to No. 402); warming it with Cayenne, or
the various Spices; — Sweet, — Savoury, — fine Herbs,
— Truffles, — Catsups, — &c. &c. and seem to con-
sider Mustard, merely as a vehicle of flavours.
N.B. In Moxs. Maille et Aclocque's catalogue
of Persian " Bon$ Bons," there is a list of 28 differently
flavoured Mustards.
q2
/
340 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Salt. — (No. 371.)
Is (** aliurum condimcntorum Co//r/iw<'«///w/' as Plutarch
calls it), Sauce for Sauce.
Common Salt, is more relishing: than Basket Salt; — it
should be prepared for the Table, by drj-ing it in a
Dutch oven before the fire ; then put it on a clean
paper, and roll it with a rolling pin ; — if you pound it
in a Mortar till it is quite fine, it will look as uell as
Basket Salt. Malden Salt is still more piquantej —
this is sold at Lambert's Oil-sliop, Ludgate Hil.
•^* Select for table use the Lumps of Salt .
Ohs. — Your Salt Box must have a close cover, and
be kept in a dry place.
Salad Mixture. — (No. 372.) See. also (No. 1 38*)
and (No. 453.)
Endeavour to have vour Salad Herbs as fresh as pos-
sible : if you susjjcct they are not " mornino^ gathered,"
they will be much refreshed by lying an hour or two in
spring water; tlun carefully wash and pick tiiem, and
trim ofi'all tlie worm eaten, slimy, cankered, dry leaves,
and after washing, let them remain a while in the cul-
lender to drain ; lastly, swing them gently in a clean
coarse napkin; — when properly picked and cut, arrange
them in the Salad Dish, —mix the Sauce in a Soup
plate, and jnit it into an Inirrcdient Bottle*, or pour
it down the side of the Salad Dish, — and don't stir it
up till the mouths are ready for it.
If the Herbs be young, — fresh gathered, — trimmed
neatly, and drained dry,— and the Sauce maker ponders
patiently over the following directions, — he cannot
gfail obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished
Salad-dresser.
• These are sold at (he Glass shops, under the name of Incorporator*, —
we recommend the sauce to be mixed in these, and the Company can then
take it, or leave it, as they like.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 341
Boil a couple of Eggs for twelve minutes, and put
them in a basin of cold water for a few minutes, — the
Yolks must be quite cold and hard, or they xvill not incor-
porate with the ingredients. Rub them through a sieve
with a wooden spoon, and mix them with a tablespoonful
of Water, or fine double Cream, then add two table-
spoonsful of Oil or melted Butter ; when these are well
mixed, add by degrees, a teaspoonful of Salt, or
powdered lump Sugar, and the same of made Mustard ;
when these are smoothly united, add very gradually
three tablespoonsful of Vinegar, rub it with the other
ingredients till thoroughly incorporated with them ;
cut up the white of the egg, and garnish the top of the
salad with it. Let the Sauce remain at the bottom of
the Bowl, and do not stir up the Salad till it is to be
eaten ; — we recommend the eaters to be mindful of
the duty of mastication, — without the due performance
of which, all undressed Vegetables are troublesome
company for the principal viscera, and some are even
dangerously indigestible.
Boiled Salad.
This is best compounded of boiled or baked Onions,
(if Portugal the better), some baked Beet root. Cauli-
flower or Brocoli, and boileo Celery and French Beans,
or any of these articles, with the common Salad dressing;
added to this, to give it an enticing appearance, and to
give some of the crispness and freshness so pleasant
in salad, a small quantity of raw Endive, or Lettice and
Chervil, or Burnet, strewed on the top : this is by far
more wholesome than the Raw Salad, and is much
eaten when put on the table.
N.B. The above Sauce is equally good with cold
Meat, — cold Fish, — or for Cucumbers, — Celery, —
Radishes, &c,, (and all the other Vegetables that are
sent to table undressed) ; to the above, a little minced
Onion is generally an acceptable addition.
0Z)4^. — Salad is a very compound dish with our
342 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
neighbours the Frencli, who always add to the mixture
above, Black Pepper, and sometimes Savoury Spice.
The Italians mince the white meat of Chickens into
this sauce.
The Dutch, cold boiled Turbot, or Lobster; or add
to it a spoonful of g'ratod Parmesan or old Cheshire
cheese, or mince very fine a little Tarragon, — or Chervil,
— Burnet, — or young Onion, — Celery, — or pickled
Gherkins, &c.
Joan Cromwell's Grand Salad was composed of
equal parts of Almonds, Raisins, Capers, Pickled
Cucumbers, Shrimps, and Boiled Turnips.
'Ihis mixture is sometimes made with cream, oiled
butter, see (No. 260*), or some good Jelly of meat,
(which many prefer to the finest Florence oil), and
riavoured wi'lh Salad IMixturc (No. 453), Basil (No.
397), or Cress or Celery Vinegar (No. 397*), Horse-
radish Vinegar (No. 399*), Cucumber Vinegar (No.
399), Tarragon, or Elder Vinegar ; essence of Celery
(No. 409), Walnut or Lemon Pickle, or a slice of
Lemon cut into dice, essence of Anchovy (No. 433.)
FORCEMEAT STUFFINGS. —(No. 373.)
Forcemeat is now considered an indispensable ac-
companiment to most Made Dishes, and when composed
with good taste, gives additional spirit and relish to
even that ''■ Sovereign of Savouriness," Turtle Soup.
It is also sent up in Patties, and for stuffing of Veal,
Game, Poultry, &c.
The ingredients should be so proportioned, that no
one flavour predominates ; — instead of giving the same
stuffing for Veal, HarC; &c., with a little contrivance,
you may make as great a variety as you have Dishes.
I have given Receipts for some of the most favourite
compositions, and a Table of Materials, a glance at
which will enable the ingenious Cook to make an
infinite variety of combinations : the first column con-
taining the spirit, the second the substance of them.
tJRAVIES AND SAUCES. 343
The poignancy of Forceineat should be proportioned
to the savouriness of the viands, to which it is intended
to give an additional Zest. Some dishes require a very
delicately flavoured forcemeat, — for others, it must be
full and high seasoned. What would be piquante in a
Turkey, — w^ould be insipid with Turtle.
Tastes are so different, — and the praise the Cook
receives, will depend so much on her pleasing the palate
of those she works for, that all her sagacity must be
on the alert, to produce the flavours to which her
employers are partial. See pages 59 and 60.
Most people have an acquired, and peculiar taste in
stuffings, &c., and what exactly pleases one, seldom
is precisely what another considers the most agreeable :
and after all the contrivance of a pains-taking pala-
tician, to combine her " htuf gouts'' in the most har-
monious proportions,
*' The very dish one likes Ihe best,
Is acid, or insipid, to the rest."
Custom is all in all, in matters of Taste, — it is not
that one person is naturally fond of this or that, and
another naturally averse to it, — but that one is used
to it, and another is not.
The consistency of Forcemeats is rather a difficult
thing to manage; they are almost always either too
light or too heavy.
Take c^re to pound it till perfect ly smooth, and that alt
the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated.
Forcemeat balls must not be larger than a small
nutmeg, — if they are for Broun Sauce, flour them and
fry them ; — if for Tfliite, put them into boiling water,
and boil them for three minutes ; the latter are by far
the most delicate.
N.B. If not of sufficient stiffness, it falls to pieces,
and makes Soup, &c. grouty and very unsightly.
Sweetbreads and Toxgues are the favourite ma-
terials for forcemeat.
344
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Materials used for Forcemeat, Stuffings, &c.
1- ^r
-= ^
a
SubstaT%ces.
rionr.
Crumbs of Bread.
Parsley. See K.B. to (No. «6l.)
Spinach.
Boiled Onion.
Mashed I'otatoes (No. 106.)
Yolks of hard Eggs (No. 574}
Motion.
Beef.
Veal Suet*, or Marrow.
Cairs Udder, or Brains.
Parboiled Swkktbrkau.
Veal minccii and pounded, and
Potted Meats, &c. (No. 503.)
Spirit.
Common Thyme. "~\
Lemon Thyme. '
Orange Thyme.
Sweet Marjoram.
Summer and
Winter Savory.
Sage.
Tarragon (No. 390.)
Chervil.
Burnet (No. 399.)
Basil (No. 397.)
Bay-leaf.
Trnffle* and
Morells.
Mushroom Powder (No. 439.)
Leeks.
Onions.
Fjhallot (No. 40?.)
Gariick.
Ixmon Peel, see (Nos. 407 and 4O8.)
Shrimps (No. 175.)
Prawns.
Crabs.
Lobsters (Nos, 176 aD<l 17«.)
Oysters.
Anchovy (No. 433.)
Dressed Tonouk. See N. B. to
(No. 373.)
Ham.
Bacou.
Black or White Pepper.
Allspice.
Mace.
Cinnamon.
Ginger.
Nutmegs.
Cloves.
Capers and Pickles, (minced or
pounded.;
Savoury Powder (No. 465.)
Soup Herb I'owder (No. -iOj.)
Curry Powder (No. 455.)
Cayenne (No. 404.)
Zeit (No. 253.)
For Liquids, you have Meat Gravy, Lemon Juice,
Syrup of Lemons (Nos. 391 and 477), Essence of An-
chovy, see (No. 433), the various Vegetable Essences,
see (No. 407), and Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), and
the whites and yolks of E^rgs, — Wines, — and the
Essence of Spices.
» If you have no Suet, — the best substitute for it is abont one-third part
the quantity of Butter.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 345
Stuffing for Veal, Roast Turkey, Fowl, ^-c — (No. 374.)
Mince a quarter of a pound of Beef Suet, (Beef
Marrow is better^, the same weight of Bread Crumbs,
two drachms of Parsley leaves, a drachm and a half of
sweet Marjoram (or Lemon-thyme), and the same of
grated Lemon-peel, and Onion or Eshallot, chopped
as fine as possible, a little grated Nutmeg, Pepper, and
Salt: — pound thoroughly together with the yolk and
white of two Eggs, and secure it in the Veal with a
skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread.
Make some of it into Balls or Sausages, flour them,
and boil, or fry them, and send them up as a garnish,
or in a side dish, with roast Poultry, Veal, or Cutlets,
&c.
N. B. This is about the quantity for a Turkey
PouLT ; a very large Turkey will take nearly twice as
much. To the above may be added an ounce of
dressed Ham, — or use equal parts of the above Stuff-
ing, and Pork Sausage Meat (No. 87), pounded icell
together.
Obs. — Good Stuffing has always been considered a
chef-d'oeuvre in Cookery; it has given immortality to
" Poor Roger Fowler, who'd a g-eiierous mind,
Jior would submit to have his hand confin'd.
But aimed at all, — yet never could excel
In any thing bat stuffing of his Veal."
King's Art of Cookery, p. lis.
Veal Forcemeat. — (No. 375.)
Of undressed lean Veal, (after you have scraped it
quite fine, and free from skin and sinews), two ounces,
the same quantity of (Beef or Veal) Suet, and the same
of Bread Crumbs, chop fine two drachms of Parsley,
one of Lemon-peel, one of Sweet Herbs, one of Onion,
and half a drachm of Mace, or Allspice, (beaten to fine
powder); pound all together in a mortar, break into it
the yolk and white of an Egg ; — rub it all up well
together, and season it with a little pepper and salt.
346 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Obs. — This may be made more savoury, by the
addition of cold boiled pickled Tongue, Anchovy,
Eshallot, Cayenne, or Curry powder, &c.
^^('iffingfor Boiled Turkei/. — (So. 377.)
Take the foregoing composition for the Roast Turkey,
— or add the soft part of a dozen Oysters to it, — an
Anchovy, — or a little grated Ham, or Tongue, if you
like it, is still more relishing.
Purk Sausage Men th sometimes used to stuft'Turkeys,
and Fowls, — or fried and sent up as a Garnish.
Goose or Duck S/iilIing. — {So. 378.)
Chop very fine about two ounces of Onion, — of
green Sage leaves about an ounce, (both unboiled),
four ounces of Bread Crumbs, the yolk and wl)ite of
an Egg, and a little pepper and salt ; some add to
this a minced Apple.
For another, sec Roasted Guose and Duck (Xos. 59
and 61), which latter we like as Forcemeat Brills for
Mock Turtle ; then add a little Lemon-peel, and warm
it with Cayenne.
Stuffing for Hare.- (So. 379.)
Two ounces of Beef Suet chopped fine, — three
ounces of fine Bread Crumbs, — Parsley, a drachm,
Shallot, half a drachm, — a drachm of Marjoram, Le-
mon-Thyme, or Winter Savory, — a drachm of grated
Lemon-peel, — half a drachm of Nutmeg, — and the
same of Pepper and Salt; — mix these with the white
and yolk of an Egg, — do not make it thin, — it
must be of cohesive consistence, — if your Stuffing is
not stift' enough, it will be good for nothing, — put it
in the hare, and sew it up.
*,* If the Liver is quite sound, you may parboil it,
and mince it leryfne, and add it to the above.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 347
Forcemeat Balls for Turtle, Mock Turtle, or Made'
Dis/ies.—(No. 380.) See also (No. 375.)
Pound some Veal in a marble mortar, rub it through
a sieve with as much of the udder as you have Veai,
or about a third the quantity of Butter ; — put some
Bread-crumbs into a stewpan, moisten them with milk,
add a little chopped Parsley and Shallot, rub them
well together in a mortar, till they form a smooth
paste; put it through a sieve, and when cold, pound,
and mix all together, with the yolks of three Eggs
boiled hard ; season it v;ith salt, pepper, and Curry
powder, or Cayenne, add to it the yolks of two raw
Eggs, rub it well together, and make small balls : ten
minutes before your Soup is ready, put them in.
Egg Balls. — (t^o. 381.)
Boil four Eggs for ten minutes, and put them into
cold water, — when they are quite cold, put the yolks
into a mortar with the yolk of a raw eg^, a teaspoonfiil
of flour, same of chopped parsley, as much salt as will
lie on a shilling, and a little black pepper, or Cayenne,
rub them well together, roll them into small Balls, (as
they swell in boiling), — boil them a couple of minutes.
Brain Balls.
See (No. 247), or beat up the brains of a Calf in the
way we have above directed the Egg.
Curri^ Balls, for Mock Turtle, Veal, Poultry, Made
Dishes, (^c — (No. 382.)
Are made with Bread-crumbs, the yolk of an Egg
boiled hard, and a bit of fresh Butter about half as big,
beaten together in a mortar, and seasoned with Curry
powder, see (No. 455) ; make and prepare small Balls,
as directed in (No. 381.)
Fish Forcemeat.— (No. 383.)
Take two ounces of either Turbot, Sole, Lobster,
348 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Shrimps, or Oysters, free from skin, put it in a mortar,
with two ounces of fresh Butter, one ounce of Bread
crumbs, the yolk of two Eggs boiled hard, and a
little Eshallot, grated Lemon-peel, and Parsley, minced
very fine ; then pound it well till it is thoroughly mixed
and quite smooth ; season it with salt and Cayenne to
your taste, break in the yolk and white of one Egg, rub
it well together, and it is ready for use. Oysters par-
boiled and minced fine, and an Anchovij, may be added.
Zest Balls. — (No. 386.) — See (No. 25.5.)
Prepared in the same way as (No. 381.)
Orange or Lemon Peel, to mix with Stuffing. — (No. 387.)
Peel a Seville Orange, or Lemon, very thin, taking
off only the fine i/clluie rind, (without any of the white,)
pound it in a mortar with a bit of lump sugar, rub it
well with the peel, — by degrees add a little of the
forcemeat it is to be mixed witli ; when it is well
ground and blended with this, mix it with the whole :
there is no other way of incorporating it so well.
Forcemeats, &c. are frequently spoiled by the insuf-
ficient mixing of the ingredients.
Clouted or Clotted Cream. ~{^o. 388.)
The milk which is put into the pans one morning
stands till the next; then set the pan on a hot hearth,
(or in a Copper Tray*, half full of water, — put this
over a stove); in from ten to twenty minutes, according
to the quantity of the milk and the size of the pan, it
will be enoug-h, — the sign of w^hich is, that bladders
rise on its surface; this denotes that it is near boiling,
which it must by no means do; and it must be in-
stantly removed from the fire, and placed in the dairy
till the next morning, when the fine cream is thrown
• A Bain-marie. See Note to (No, 485.)
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 349
Up, and is ready for the table, or for Butter, into which
it is soon converted by stirring it with the hand.
N.B. This Receipt we have not proved.
Raspberry Finegar. — (No. 390.)
The best way to make this, is to pour three pints of
the best white wine Vinegar on a pint and a half
of fresh- gathered Red Raspberries in a stone Jar, or
China bowl, (neither glazed earthe7iware, Jior any metaUic
vessel, mmt be used ;) the next day strain the liquor over
a like quantity of /resh Raspberries ; and the day fol-
lowing do the same. Then drain off the liquor without
pressing, and pass it through a Jelly Bag (previously
wetted with plain Vinegar) into a stone Jar, with a
pound of pounded lump Sugar to each pint. When
the Sugar is dissolved, stir it up, cover down the Jar,
and set it in a saucepan of water, and keep it boiling
for an hour, taking off the scum ; add to each pint a
glass of Brandy, and bottle it : mixed in about eight
parts of water, it is a very refreshing and delightful
Summer drink. An excellent cooling beverage to as-
suage thirst in ardent fevers, colds, and inflammatory
complaints, &c., and is agreeable to most palates.
See (No. 479*.)
N.B. We have not proved this Receipt.
Syrup of Lemons. — (No. 391.)
The best Season for Lemons, is from November to
March. — Put a pint of fresh Lemon juice to a pound
and three quarters of Lump Sugar; dissolve it by a
gentle heat, scum it till the surface is quite clear^ —
add an ounce of thin cut Lemon Peel ; let them simmer
(very gently) together for a few minutes, and run
it through a flannel. Vfheii cold, bottle and cork
it closely, and keep it in a cool place.
Or,
Dissolve a quarter of an ounce (Avoirdupois) of
350 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Citric, i.e. crystallized Lemon-acid, in a pint of
Clarified Syrup (No. 475), flavour it with the Peel,
with (No. 408), or dissolve the acid in equal parts of
Simple Syrup (No. 475), and Syrup of Lemon Peel,
made as (No. 393.)
T/ie Justice's Orange Si/nip, for 'Punch ur Puddi/ips,
(No. 392.)
Squeeze the Oranc:es, and strain the juice from the
pulp into a large pot: boil it up with a pound and a
half of fine Sugar to each pint of juice ; skim it well,
let it stand till cold, and then bottle it, and cork it well.
Ohs. — This makes a fine, soft, mellow-flavoured
Punch ; and, added to melted butter, is a good relisli
to Puddings.
Si/rup of Orange or Lemon Peel. — (No. 393.)
Of fresh outer rind of Seville orange or Lemon-peel,
three ounces, apothecaries' weight ; boiling water, a pint
and a half; infuse them for a night in a close vessel ;
then strain tiie liquor; let it stand to settle; and hav-
ing poured it ofl' clear from the sediment, dissolve in it
two pounds of double refined loaf sugar, and make it
into a syrup with a gentle heat.
Ohs. — In making this syrup, if the sugar be dis-
solved in the infusion with as gentle a heat as possible,
to prevent the exhalation of the volatile parts of the Peel,
this syrup will possess a great share of the fine fla-
vour of the orange, or lemon-peel.
Vinegar for Salads — (No. 395.)
Take of Tarragon, — Savory, — Chives, — Eshallots,
three ounces each, — a handful of the tops of Mint and
Balm, — all dry and pounded ; put into a wide-mouthed
Bottle, with a gallon of best Vinegar ; cork it close,
set it in the Sun, and in a fortnight strain oft", and
squeeze the herbs, let it stand a day to settle, and
then strain it through a filtering Bag. — Frotn Parmex-
tier's rjrt de Faircles Vinaigres, 8vo. 1805, p. 205.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 351
Tarragon Vinegar. — (No. 396.)
This is a very agreeable addition to Soups, Salad
Sauce (No. 455), and to mix Mustard (No. 370.) Fill
a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh-gathered Tarragon
leaves, i. e. between Midsummer and Michaelmas,
(which should be gathered on a dry day, just before
it flowers,) and pick the leaves off the stalks, and
dry them a little before the fire; cover them with the
best Vinegar, let them steep fourteen days, then strain
through a flannel Jelly Bag till it is fine, then pour
it into half-pint bottles; cork them carefully, and
keep them in a dry place.
Obs. — You may prepare Elder-fiowers and Herbs in
the same manner ; Elder and Tarragon are those in
most general use in this country.
Our neighbours, the French, prepare Vinegars fla-
voured with Celery, — Cucumbers, — Capsicums, — Gar-
lick, — Eshallot, — Onion, — Capers, — Chervil, — Cress-
seed, — Burnet, — Truffles, — Seville Orange Peel, —
Ginger, &c. ; in short, they impregnate them with
almost every Herb, — Fruit, — Flower, — and Spice
separa,tely, and in innumerable combinations.
Messrs. Maille et Acloque, Vinaigriers a Paris, sell
65 sorts of variously flavoured Vixegars, and 28 dif-
ferent sorts of Mustard.
Basil Vinegar or JVine. — Q^o. 397.)
Sweet Basil is in full perfection about the middle of
August. Fill a wide-m.outhed bottle with the fresh
green leaves of Basil, (these give much finer and more
flavour than the dried,) and cover them with Vinegar —
or Wine, — and let them steep for ten days ; if you wish
a very strong Essence, strain the liquor, put it on some
fresh leaves, and let them steep fourteen days more.
Obs. — This is a very agreeable addition to Sauces, —
'^oups, — and to the mixture usually made for Salads,
see (No. 372), and (No. 453.)
352 GRAVIES AND SAtCES.
It is a secret the makers of Mock Turtle may
thank us for telling; a tablespoonful put in when the
Soup is finished, will impregnate a tureen of soup, with
the Basil, and Acid flavours, at very small cost, when
fresh Basil and Lemons are extravag-antly dear.
The flavour of the other Sweet, and Savoury
Herbs, — Celery, &c. may be procured, and pre-
served in the same manner. See (No. 409), or (No.
417), by infusing them in wine — or vinegar.
Cress Vinegar.— {"So. 397*.)
Dry and and pound half an ounce of Cress Seed, (such
as is sown in the garden with Mustard,) pour upon it a
quart of the best Vinegar, let it steep ten days, shaking
it up every day.
Obs. — This is very strongly flavoured with Cress, —
and for Salads, and Cold Meats, &c. it is a great
favourite with many; — the Quart of Sauce costs only a
Half-penny more than the Vinegar.
Celery Vinegar is made in the same manner.
The Crystal Vinegar (No. 407*), which is, we be-
lieve, the Pyruligneons Acid, is the best for receiving
flavours, — having scarcely any of its own.
Green Mint Vinegar, — (No. 398.)
Is made precisely in the same manner, and w^th the
same proportions, as in (No. 397.)
Obs. — In the early season of Housed-Lamb, Green
Mint is sometimes not to be got; the above is then a
welcome substitute.
Burnet or Cucumber Vinegar. — (No. 399.)
This is made in precisely the same manner as di-
rected in (No. 397.) The flavour of Burnet resembles
Cucumber so exactly, that when infused in Vinegar,
the nicest palate would pronounce it to be Cucumber.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 353
Obs. — This is a very favourite relish with Cold Meat,
Salads, &c.
Burnet is in best season from Midsummer to Mi-
chaelmas.
Horseradish Vinegar. — ^No. 399*.)
Horseradish is in highest perfection about Novem-
ber.
Pour a quart of best Vinegar on three ounces of
scraped Horseradish, an ounce of minced Eshallot, and
one drachm of Cayenne ; let it stand a week, and
you will have an excellent relish for Cold Beef, Salads,
&c. costing scarcely any thing.
N. B. A portion of Black Pepper and Mustard,
Celery or Cress-seed, may be added to the above.
Obs. — Horseradish Powder (No. 458.*)
Garlick Vinegar. — (No. 400.)
Garlick is ready for this purpose from Midsummer
to Michaelmas.
Peel and chop two ounces of Garlick, pour on them
a quart of white-wine Vinegar, stop the jar close, and
let it steep ten days, shaking it well every day ; then
pour off the clear liquor into small bottles.
Obs. — The Cook must be careful not to use too
much of this: — a few drops of it will give a pint of
Gravy a sufficient smack of the Garlick: the flavour of
which, when shght, and well blended, is one of the
finest we have ; — when used in excess, it is the most
offensive.
The best way to use Garlick, is to send up some of
this Vinegar in a Cruet, and let the company flavour
their own Sauce as they like.
N. B. The most elegant preparation of the Onion
Tribe, is the Eshallot Wine, (No. 402.)
Eshallot Vinegar— (No. 401.)
Is made in the same manner, and the Cook should
354 GRAVIES Al^D SAUCES.
never be without one of these useful auxiharics ; they
cost scarcely any thing but the little trouble of makhig,
— and will save a great deal of trouble in flavouring-
Soups and Sauces with a taste of Onion.
N.B. Eshallots are in high perfection during July,
August, and September.
EsiiALLOT Wine. — (No. 402.)
Peel, mince, and pound in a mortar, three ounces of
Eshallots, and infuse them in a pint of Sherry for ten
•days, — then pour off the clear liquor on three ounces
tnore Shallots, and let the wine stand on them ten days
longer.
Obs. — This is rather the most expensive, but itiji-
nitelj/ the vwst elegant preparation of Esii allot, and
imparts the Onion flavour to Soups and Sauces, for
Chops, Steaks, or boiled Meats, Hashes, &c. more
agreeably than any : it does not leave any unpleasant
taste in the mouth, or to the breath, nor repeat, as
almost all the other preparations of Garlick, Onion*,
&c. do.
N. B. An ounce of scraped Horseradish may be
added to the above, and a little thin cut Lemon iPeel,
or a few drops of (No. 408.)
Camp Vinegar. — (No. 403.)
Cayenne Pepper, one drachm, avoirdupois weight.
Soy, two tablespoonsful.
"Walnut Catsup, four ditto.
Six Anchovies chopped.
A small clove of Garlick, minced fine.
Steep all for a month in a pint of best Vinegar,
frequently shaking the bottle : strain through a tammis,
• " If Lcekcs you like, but do their smell dis-leeke.
Eat Onyons, and you shall not smell the Leeke;
If you of Onyons would the scent expell,
Eat Gnrlicke, that shall drowne the Onyons' smell."
See page 5[) of the Philosopher's Banquet, l6rao. London, l633.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 355
and keep it in small bottles, corked as tightly as pos-
sible.
Cayenne Pepper. — (No. 404.)
Mr. Acciim has informed the Public, (see his book
on Adulterations,) that from some specimens that came
direct to him from India, and others obtained from
respectable Oil bhops in London, he has extracted
Lead !
" Foreign Cayenne Pepper is an indiscriminate mix-
ture of the powder of the dried pods of many species
of Capsicums, — especially of the Bird Pepper, which is
the hottest of all. As it comes to us from the West
Indies, it changes the infusion of Turnsole to a beau-
tiful Green, probably owing to the Salt v/hich is
always added to it, and the Red Oxide of Lead, with
which it is said to be adulterated.'' — Duncan's N'ew
Edinburgh Dispensatory, 1819, Article, Capsicum, ip. 81.
The Indian Cayenne is prepared in a very careless
manner, and often looks as if the pods had lain till
they were decayed, before they were dried ; — this ac-
counts for the dirty brown appearance it commonly
has. If properly dried as soon as gathered, it will be
of a clear red colour : to give it the complexion of that
made with good fresh-gathered Capsicums or Cliilies,
some Arnatto, or other Vegetable Red colouring matter,
is pounded with it ; this, Mr. A. assures us, is frequently
adulterated with Indian Red, i. e. " Red Lead T
When Cayenne is pounded, it is mixed with a con-
siderable portion of Salt, to prevent its flying up and
hurting the Eyes : this might be avoided, by grinding
it in a Mill, which may easily be made close enough,
especially if it be passed through a second time, and
then sifted through a fine drum-headed sieve, to pro-
duce as fine a powder as can be obtained by pounding ;
however, our English Chilies may be pounded in a
deep mortar without any danger.
356 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Capsicums and Chilies are ripe and red, and in
finest condition during: September and October; they
may be purchased at the Herb Shops in Covent-
Garden, the former for about five, the latter for two
shillings per hundred.
The flavour of the C/iilies is very superior to that of
the Capsicums, — and will be good in proportion as
they are dried as soon as possible, taking care they
are not burnt.
Take away the stalks, and put the pods into a
Cullender; set it before the Fire; they will take full
twelve hours to dry ; then put them into a mortar,
with one-fourth their weight of salt, and pound them
and rub them till they are ///ie as possible, and put them
into a well-stop])ed bottle.
N.B. We a(ivise those who arc fond of Cayenne,
not to think it too much trouble to make it of English
Chilies, — there is no other way of being sure it is
genuine, — and they will obtain a pepper of much
finer flavour, without half the heat of the Foreign.
A hundred large Chilies, costing only Two Sliillings,
will produce you about two ounces of Cayenne, — so
it is as cheap as the commonest Cayenne.
Essence of Cayenne.— (No. 405.)
Put half an ounce of Cayenne Pepper (No. 404),
into half a pint of Brandy, or Wine ; let it steep for a
fortnight, and then pour off the clear liquor.
This is nearly equal to fresh Chili juice.
Obs. — Is extremely convenient for the eitcrnpove
seasoning, and finishing of Soup, Sauces, &c., its^a-
Tour being instantly, and equally dijfused. Cayenne
Pepper varies so much in strength, that it is impos-
sible to season Soup any other way to the precise point
of piquance.
Chili Vinegar. — (No. 405*.)
This is commonly made with the Foreign Bird
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 357
Pepper, — but you will obtain a much finer flavour
from infusing fifty fresh Red English Chilies (cut in
half, or pounded,) in a pint of the best Vinegar for a
fortnight, or a quarter ounce of Cayenne Pepper, (No.
404.)
Obs. — Many people cannot eat Fish without the
addition of an Acid, and Cayenne Pepper ; to such
palates this will be an agreeable relish.
C/ii/i, or Cayenne Wine. — (No. 405**.)
Pound and steep fifty fresh Red Chilies, or a quarter
of an ounce of Cayenne Pepper, in half a pint of
Brandy, White Whie, or Claret, for fourteen days,
Obs. — This is a " Bonne Bouche' for the lovers of
Cayenne, of which it takes up a larger proportion of
its flavour, than of its fire : which being instantly dif-
fused, it is a very useful auxiliary to warm and finish
Soups and Sauces, &c.
Essence uf Lemon Peel. — (No. 407.)
Wash and brush clean the Lemons ; — let them get
perfectly dry: — take a lump of Loaf Sugar, and rub
them till all the yellow rind is taken up by the sugar;
— scrape off' the surface of the sugar into a preserving
pot, and press it hard down ; cover it very close, and
it will keep for some time.
In the same way you may get the essence of Seville
Orange Peel.
Ohs. — This method of procuring, and preserving
the flavour of Lemon Peel, by making an Oleosaccha-
rum, is far superior to the common practice of paring
off* the rind, or grating it, and pounding, or mixing
that with sugar: — by this process, you obtain the
whole of the fine, fragrant, essential Oil, in which is
contained the flavour.
Artificial Lemon Juice. — (No. 407*.)
If you add a drachm of Lump Sugar pounded, and
six drops of (No. 408), to three ounces of (Ball's,
358 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
No. 81, New Bond-Street, Crystal Finegar, which is
the name given to the Pyrohgneous Vinegar.) you will
have an excellent substitute for Lemon Juice — for
Fish Sauces and Soups, and many other Cuhnary
purposes. The flavour of the Lemon may also be
communicated to the Vinegar — by infusing some
Lemon Peel in it.
N.B. Tlie Pyroligneous Vinegar is perfectly free
from all flavour, save that of the pure Acid, — there-
fore, it is a very valuable menstruum for receiving
impregnations from various flavouring materials.
The Pyro-ligis'eous Acid seems likely to produce
.quite a revolution in the process of curing Hams, Her-
rings, &c. &c. — See TiLLOCii's Philosophical Magazine^
1821, No. 173, p. 12.
Quint-Essence of Lemon Peel. — (No. 408.)
Best oil of Lemon*, one drachm.
Strongest rectified spirit, two ounces,
introduced by degrees, till the spirit kills, and com-
pletely mixes with the oil. This elegant preparation
possesses all the delightful fragrance and flavour of the
freshest Lemon Peel.
Ohs. — A few drops on the Sugar you make Punch
with, will instantly impregnate it with as much flavour
as the troublesome and tedious method of grating the
rind, or rubbing the Sugar on it.
It will be found a super lat it e substitute for fresh
Lemon Peel, for every purpose that it is used for :
Blanc Mange, — Jellies, — Custards, — Ice, — Negus,
— Lemonade, — and Pies, Puddings, — Stuffings, —
Soup.s, — Sauces, — Ragouts, &c.
See also (No. 393.)
Tincture of Leinon Peel. — (No. 408*.)
A very easy, and economical way of obtaining, and
• This, and other Essential Oils, are sold in the purest state by Stewart,
Ko. 11, Old Broad Street, City.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 359
preserving the flavour of Lemon Peel, is to fill a wick-
mouthed pint bottle half full of Brandy, Rum, or
proof spirit; and when you use a Lemon, pare the
rind off very thin, and put it into the Brandy, &c. ; —
in a fortnight, it will impregnate the spirit with the
flavour very strongly.
Essence of Celery. — (No. 409.)
Brandy, or proof spirit, a quarter of a pint.
Celery seed bruised, half an ounce, avoirdupois
weight.
Let it steep for a fortnight.
06*. — A few drops will immediately flavour a pint of
Broth, and are an excellent addition to Pease, and
other Soups; and the salad mixture of Oil, Vinegar,
&c. (No. 392.)
N.B. To make Celery Sauce, see (No. 289.)
Essence of Gi?iger. — (No. 411.)
Three ounces of fresh-grated* Ginger, and an ounce
of thin cut Lemon Peel, into a quart of Brandy, or Proof
Spirit, (apothecaries' measure;) let it stand for ten
days, shaking it up each day.
Obs. — The proper title for this would be ^' Tincture
of Ginger:" however, as it has obtained the name of
" Essence," so let it be called.
N.B. If Ginger is taken to produce an immediate
effect, — to warm the Stomach, or dispel flatulence, —
this is the best preparation.
Essence of Allspice, — (No. 412.)
Oil of Pimento, a drachm, apothecaries' measure.
Strong Spirit of Wine, two ounces,
mixed by degrees : a few drops will give the flavour
• The fragrant aroma of Ginger is so extremely volatile, that it evaporates
almost as soon as it is poudered, — and the fine Lemon-peel gout — Hies off
presently.
360 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
of Allspice to a pint of Gravy, — or Mulled Wine, —
or to make a Bishop.
Tincture* of Allspice. — (No. 413.)
Of Allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries'
weig-ht.
Brandy, a quart.
Let it steep a fortnight, occasionally shaking it up ;
then pour off the clear liquor : it is a most grateful
addition in all cases where Allspice is used, for making
a Bishop, or to Mulled Wine Extempore, or in Gra-
vies, Arc. or to flavour and preserve Potted Meats,
(No. 503.)
Tincture of Nutmeg — (No. 413'.)
Is made with the same proportions of Nutmeg and
Brandy as ordered for Allspice. See Obs. to (No. 415.)
Essence of Cloie and Mace. — (No. 414.)
Strongest Spirit of \N ine, two ounces, apothecaries'
measure.
Oil of Nutmeg or Clove or Mace, a drachm, apo-
thecaries' measure.
Tincture of Clove. — (No. 415.)
Cloves bruised, three ounces, apothecaries' weight.
Brandy, one quart.
Let it steep ten days : strain it through a flannel
sieve.
Obs. — Excellent to flavour *' Bishop" or *• Mulled
ff'ine.'*
Essence of Cinnamon. — (No. 416.)
Strongest rectified Spirit of Wine, two ounces.
Oil of Cinnamon, one drachm, apothecaries' measure.
• TiDctures are mach finer flayoared than Eaiencei.
i
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 361
Tincture of Cinnamon. — (No. 416*.)
'I his exhilarating Cordial is made by pouring- a
bottle of genuine Cogniac (No. 471), on three ounces
of bruised Cinnamon — (Cassia will not do.)
This restorative was more in vogue formerly, than it
is now ; — a teaspoonful of it, and a lump of Sugar, in
a glass of good Sherry or Madeira, with the yolk of an
Egg beat up in it, — was called '' Bahamum Vifte."
" Cur morlatur homo, qui sumit de Cinnamomo ?" — " Cinnamoa is
vcrie cumfortable to the Stomacke, and the principall partes of the bodie."
" Fentriculum,Jecur,Lienem, Cerebrum, nervosque juvat et roborat.'
— • " I reckon it a great treasure for a student to have by him, ia his closet, to
take now and then a spoonful." — Coggan's Haven of Health, 4to. 1584.
p. 111.
Obs. — Two teaspoonsful in a wine glass of water —
are a present and pleasant remedy in Nervous Lan-
guors— and in relaxations of the Bowels; — in the
latter case, five drops of Laudanum may be added to
each dose.
Essence of Marjoram. — (No. 417.)
Strongest rectified Spirit, two ounces.
Oil of Origanum, one drachm, apothecaries' measure.
Vegetable Essences. — (No. 417*.)
The flavour of the various sweet and savoury
Herbs may be obtained, by combining their Essential
Oils with P^ectifed Spirit of Wine, in the proportion of
one drachm of the former to two ounces of the latter,
by picking the leaves, and laying them for a couple of
hours in a warm place to dry, and then filling a large-
mouthed bottle with them, and pouring on them Wine,
Brandy, Proof Spirit, or Vinegar, and letting them
steep for fourteen days.
Soup Herb* Spirit — (No. 420.)
Of Lemon Thyme,
Winter Savory,
• For the season, &c. when these Herbs, &c. come in perfection, and how
Ji) dry them, see (No. 461.)
11
§65
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Sweet Marjoram,
Sweet Basil, — half an ounce of each.
Lemon Peel grated, two drachms.
Eshallots, the same.
Celery Seed, a drachm, avoirdupois weight.
Prepare them as directed in (^No. 461); and infuse
them in a pint of Brandy, or proof Ji^pirit, for ten days ;
thcij mmi also be iufuicd in U ine, or Jlncgar, but neither
extract the flavour of the ingredients half so well as
the spirit.
Spiiif of Saxoury Spice. — - (No. 42 1 .)
Black Pepper, an ounce, — Allspice, half an ounce,
pounded tine.
Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce, avoirdupois
weight.
Infuse in a pint of Brandy, or Proof Spirit, for ten
days : — or, infuse the ingredients enumerated in (No.
4.57), in a quart of Brandy, cr Proof Spirit, for the like
time.
Souji-hcrb, and Saioury Spice Spirit. — (No. 422.)
Mix half a pint of Soup-herb spirit with a (juarter
pint of spirit of Savoury spice.
Obs. — IViese preparations are xaliiabic auxiliaries to
immediately heighten thcjlaiour, andjinish Soups, Sauces,
Ragouts, t^c. — uill save much time and trouble to the
Co'jk, and heep for tuenty years.
Relish for Chops, ^-c. — (No. 423.)
Pound fine an ounce of Black Pepper, and half an
ounce of Allspice, with an ounce of Salt, and half an
ounce of scraped Horseradish, and the same of Eshal-
lots peeled and quartered ; put these ingredients into
a pint of Mushroom Catsup, or Walnut Pickle, and
let them steep for a fortnight, and then strain it.
i
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 363
Obs. — A teaspoonful or two of this is generally an
acceptable addition, mixed with the Gravy usually sent
up for Chops, and Steaks ; see (No. 356), or added to
thick melted Butter.
Fish 6'«Mce.— (No. 425.)
Two wineglasses of Port, and two of Walnut pickle ;
four of Mushroom catsup; half a dozen Anchovies
pounded, the like number of Eshallots sliced and
pounded ; a tablespoonful of Soy, and half a drachm
of Cayenne pepper: let them simmer gently for ten
minutes, strain it, and when cold, put it into bottles ;
well corked and sealed over, it will keep for a consi-
derable time.
Ohs. — This is commonly called QuiiVs Sauce, and was
given to me by a very sagacious Saucemaker.
Keeping Mustard. — (No. 427.)
Dissolve three ounces of Salt in a quart of boilinj^
water, and pour it hot upon two ounces of scraped
Horseradish ; closely cover down the jar, and let it
stand twenty-four hours : — strain, and mix it by degrees
with the best Durham flour of mustard, beat well to-
gether till quite smooth and of the proper thickness ;
put into a wide mouthed bottle, and stop it closely.
See also (Nos. 369 and 370.)
SAUCE SUPERLATIVE*. — (No. 429.)
Claret, or Port wine, and Mushroom Catsup, see
(No. 439), a pint of each.
Half a pint of Walnut or other Pickle liquor.
Pounded Anchovies, four ounces.
* We hope this title will not offend those -who may quote against it the old
Adage, " that Good Appetite is the best Sauce." — Allowing this to be generally
true, (which is a more candid confession than could be expected from a
Cook), we dare say, the majority of our readers will vote witii us, that there
are ninny good things (Fish especially; that would be rather insipid, — without
a little Sauce of another kind.
R 2
364 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Fresh Lemon-peel pared very thin, an ounce.
Peeled and sliced Eshallots, the same.
Scraped Horseradish, ditto.
Allspice and
Black Pepper powdered, half an ounce each.
Cayenne, one drachm, or Curry powder, three
drachms.
Celery -seed bruised, a drachm. x4ll aroirdupois
Tx tight.
Put these into a wide mouth bottle, stop it close, shake
it up every day tor a fortnight, and strain it, (when
some think it improved by the addition of a quarter
pint of Soy, or thick Browning, see (No. 322), and you
will have a " dklicious double relish."
•«• This composition, is one of the '' chef-d'oeuvres"
of many experiments I have metde, for the purpose of
enabling the good Housewives of Great Britain to prepare
their unn !^auces: it is equally agreeable with fish, game,
poultry, or ragouts, c^c, and as a fair lady may make it
herself, its relish mil be not a little augmented, — by the
certainty that all the ingredients are good and wholesome.
Obs. — Under an intinity of circumstances, a Cook
may be in want of the substances necessary to make
Sauce ; the above composition of the several articles
from which the various gravies derive their flavour, will
be found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute.
By mixing a large tablespoonful with a quarter pint
of thickened melted butter, broth, or (No. 252), five
minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce, nearly
equal to drawn-gravy, and as likely to put your Lingual
nerves into good humour as any thing I know.
To make a boat of Sauce for Poultry, &c. put a
piece of butter about as big as an ^^^, into a stew-
pan, set it on the fire; when it is melted, put to it a
tablespoonful of flour ; stir it thoroughly together, and
add to it two tablespoonsful of Sauce, and by degrees,
about half a pint of broth or boiling water, let it simmer
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 365
gently over a slow fire for a few minutes, skim it and
strain it through a sieve, and it is ready.
QUINT-ESSENCE OF ANCHOVY*. —(No. 433.)
The goodness of this preparation depends almost
entirely on having fine mellow Fish, that have been in
pickle long enough (i. e. about twelve months) to dis-
solve easily, — yet are not at all rusty.
Choose those that are in the state they come over in,
not such as have been put into fresh pickle, mixed with
Red Paintf, which some add to improve the complexion
of the Fish, — it has been said, that others have a trick
of putting Anchovy liquor on pickled Sprats t: you
will easily discover this by washing one of them, and
tasting the flesh of it, which in the fine Anchovy, is
mellow, red, and high flavoured, and the bone moist
and oily. Make only as much as will soon be used,
the fresher it is the better.
Put ten or twelve Anchovies into a mortar, and pound
them to a pulp ; — put this into a very clean iron or
silver, or very well tinned § saucepan, then put a table-
spoonful of cold spring water into the mortar, shake it
round, and pour it to the pounded Anchovies, set them
by the side of a slow fire, very frequently stirring them
together^ till they are melted, which they will be in the
* The invention of this favourite Fish Sauce is claimed by Mr. Thos. Young,
see " the Epicure," Harding, London, 1815, page 12. He says, " there still
is a cabal between some of the makers of this sauce, which of them makes it
best. Though they do not pretend to the invention, all of them denominate
themselves the best makers. One is " the real maker ! P' aiiotlier " the
superior! ! !" another " the improved !! !" anotlier " the original stipe-
rityr .',!.' with cautions to guard against the " spuriotis makers."
Burgess, Ko. 107, next the Savoy Steps, in the Strand, has long been
famous for making this Sauce.
t " Several samples which we examined of this Fish Sauce, have been found
contaminated with Lead." — See AccuM on Adulteration, page 3t'8.
t They may do very well for common palates ; but to imitate the fine
flavour of the Gorgona fish, so as to impose upon a weIl-educatedGoMr/?/«/«/,
still remains in the catalogue of the Sauce maker's desiderata.
§ The best vessel for this purpose is the pint Bainmarie, sold by Lloyd,
Ironmonger, near Norfolk Street, Strand.
366 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
course of five minutes. — Now stir in a quarter of a
drachm of good Cayenne pepper (No. 404), and let it
remain by the side of the fire for a few minutes longer;
then, while it is warm, rub it through a hair sieve*,
with the back of a wooden spoon,
A roll of thin cut Lemon-peel infused with the An-
chovy, imparts a fine, fresh, delicate aromatic flavour,
which is very grateful ; this is only recommended when
you make Sauce for immediate use, — it will keep much
better without; if you wish to acidulate it, instead of
water make it with artificial Lemon juice (No. 407*),
or add a little of Coxwell's concrete acid to it.
Ohs. — The above is the proper way, to perfectly
dissolve Anchovy f, and incor])orate it with the water;
which, if completely saturated, will continue suspended.
To prevent the separation of Essence of Anchory^ and
give it the appearance of being fully saturated with
Fish, — various other expedients have been tried, such
as dissolving the fish in thin Water Gruel, or Barley
Water, or thickening it with Mucilage, Flour, &c., —
when any of these things are added, it does not keep
half so well as it does without them, and to preserve it,
they overload it with Cayenne Pepper.
Mem. You cannot itiake Essence of Anchovy half so cheap
as you can buy it. — Thirty prime Fish, weighing a pound
and a quarter, and costing 4^. 6r/., and two table-
spoonsful of water, made me only half a Pint of
Essence, — you may commonly buy that quantity ready
made for 2*., and we have seen an Advertisement
offering it for sale as low as 2s. 6d. per Quart.
It must be kept very closely stopped, — when you tap a
bottle of Sauce, throw away the old perforated Cork, and
• The Economist may take the thick remains that won't pass throngh the
sieve, and pound itwilli some flour, and make Anchovy Paste, or Powdkk.
See (Nos. 134 and 43j.)
t Epicure QuiN used to say, " Of all the Banns of Marriage I ever heard,
none gave me half such pleasure as the unioii of delicate ann-chovy with
COOd JOH.N-DORY,"
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 367
put in a new taper velvet cork ; — if the air gets to it, the
Fish takes the rust^, and it is spoiled directly.
Essence of Anchovy is sometimes coloured f vvith
bole Armeniac, Venice red, &c. ; but all these additions
deteriorate the flavour of the sauce, and the Palate and
stomach suffer for the gratification of the Eye, which,
in culinary concerns, will never be indulged by the
sagacious Gourmand at the expense of these two primum
mobiles of his pursuits.
*^* Essence of Anchovy is sometimes made with Sherry or
Madeira wine, or good Mushroom catsup (No. 439), instead
of water. If you like the acid flavour, add a little citric
acid, or dissolve them in good Vinegar.
N.B. This is infinitely the most convenient way of
using Aachovy, as each guest may mix sauce for himself,
and make it strong or weak, according to his own
taste.
It is also much more Economical, as plain melted
Butter (No. 256) serves for other purposes at table.
AxcHOVY Paste, or le Beurre d^Anchois.
(No. 434.)
Pound them in a mortar, then rub it through a fine
sieve; pot it; cover it with clarified butter, and keep
it in a cool place.
N. B. If you have Essence of Anchovy, you may make
Anchovy Paste Extempore, by rubbing the Essence with
as much Flour as will make a paste. Mem, This is
merely mentioned as the means of making it imme-
diately, — it will not keep.
Obs. — This is sometimes made stiffer and hotter by
the addition of a little Flour of Mustard, — a pickled
* " Rast in Anchovies, if I'm not mistaken,
Is as bad as Rust in Steel, or Rust in Bacon."
Young's Epictire, page 14.
+ If you are not contented with the natural colour, break some Lobsters'
Eggs into it, and you will not only heighten the Complexion of your Sauce,
but improve its tlavour. This is the only Rouge we can recommend. See
note to (No. 284.)
368 GHAVIES AND SAUCES.
Walnut, — Spice (No. 460), — Curry Powfler(No. 45.'>J,
— or Cayenne, and then becomes a rival to " hi it'ritahle
Suucc d" Rnfcr" (No. 538), — or Pate it la Dinb/t for
Deviling Biscuits (No. 574), — Grills (No. 538), &c.
It is an excellent p:arnish for Fish, put in pats round
the edge of the dish, or will make Anchovy Toast
(No. 573), — or Devil a Biscuit (No. 574), cVc.'in high
style.
Anchoxij Ponder. — (No. 435.)
Pound the fish in a mortar, rub them through a sieve,
and make them into a paste with dried Hour, roll it
into thin cakes, and dry them in a Dutch oven before a
slow fire ; pounded to a fine |>owdcr, and put into a
well-stopped bottle, it will keep for years; it is a very
savourv relish, sprinkled on bread and butter for a
sandwich, &c. b»ee Oyster powder (No. 280.)
Ohs. — To this may be added a small ])ortion of
Cayenne Pepper, grated Lemon Peel, and Citric Acid.
jral/iut Cat.sup.—(So. 438.)
Take six half sieves of green walnut shells, put them
into a tub, mix them up well with common salt, from
two to three pounds, let them stand for six days, fre-
quently beating and mashing them; by this time the
shells become soft and pulpy, then by banking it up on
one side of the tub, and at the same time by raising the
tub on that side, the liquor will drain clear off to the
other; then take that liquor out: the mashing and
banking up may be repeated as often as liquor is found.
The quantity will be about six quarts. When done, let
it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any scum
arises ; then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a
quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of long
pepper, two ounces of cloves, with the above ingredients,
let it slowly boil for half an hour . when bottled let an
equal quantity of the spice go into each bottle ; when
corked, let the bottles be filled quite up: cork them
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 369
tight, seal them over, and put into a cool and dry
place for one year before it is used.
N.B. For the above we are indebted to a respectable
Oilman, who has many years proved the Receipt.
MUSHROOM CATSUP. - (No. 439.^
If you love Good Catsup, gentle reader, make it
yourself*, after the following directions, and you will
have a delicious Relish for Made dishes. Ragouts,
Soups, Sauces or Hashes.
Mushroom gravy, approaches the nature and flavour
of Meat gravy, more than any vegetable juice; and is
the superlative substitute for it, in Meagre Soups, and
Extempore Gravies, the Chemistry of the Kitchen has
yet contrived to agreeably awaken the Palate, and
encourage the Appetite.
A couple of Quarts of Double Catsup, made accord-
ing to the following Receipt, will save you some score
pounds of Meat, besides a vast deal of time and
ti'ouble, as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good
Sauce as can be made for either Fish, Flesh, or Fowl.
See (No. 307.)
I believe the following is the best way of extracting
and preparing the Essence of Mushrooms, so as to
procure, and preserve their flavour for a considerable
length of time.
Look out for Mushrooms from the beginning of
September.
Take care they are the right sort, and/re.^/? gathered.
Full grown Flaps are to be preferred : put a layer of
these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle
them with Salt, then another layer of Mushrooms, and
some more salt on them, and so on alternately, salt and
mushrooms ; — let them remain two or three hours, by
• The Mushrooms employed for preparing readj' made Catsup, are generally
those which are in a putrefactive state. In a few days after those Fungi
have been gathered, they become the habitation of myriads of insects."
AcGUM 0}i Culinary Poisons, 12mo. 1820. p. 350.
R 5
870 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
wliich time the salt will have penetrated the mushroom!*,
and rendered them easy to break ; — then pound them
in a mortar, or mash them well with your hands, and
let them remain for a couple of days, not lono;er, stirriuii"
them up, and mashing them well each day; — then
pour them into a stone jar, and to each quart add an
ounce of whole Black Pepper; stop the jar very close,
and set it in a ste>v])an ofboilinn* water, and keep it
boiling for two hours at least. — Take out the jar, and
pour the juice clear from the settlings through a hair
sieve (without squeezing' the nuishrooms) into a clean
'itewpan; let it boil very gently for half an hour; those
who are for Superlative Catsup, will continue the
boiling till the Mushroom juice is reduced to half the
quantity, it mav then be called Double CV/^-sup or Doo-
sup.
There are several advantages attending this con-
centration ; it will keep much better, and only half the
(piantity be recpiired; — so you can flavour Sauce, &c.
witliout thinnine it : — neither is this an extravagant
wav of making it, for merely the aqueous part is eva-
porated ; skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar,
or jug; cover it close, and let it stand in a cool place
till next day, then pour it oft' as gently as possible, (so
as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the jug),
through a tammis, or thick flannel bag, till it is perfectly
clear ; add a tablespoonful of good Brandy to each pint
of Catsup, and let it stand as before ; — a fresh sediment
will be deposited, from which the Catsup is to be quietly
poured off, and bottled in pints or half pints, (which
liave been washed with Brandy or spirit); it is best to
kee]) it in such quantities as are soon used.
Take especial care that it is closely corked, and
sealed down, or dipped in Bottle Cement.
• The Squeezings are the perquisite of the Cook, to make Sance for tho
Second lable ; do not deprive her of it, it is the most profitable save-all yon
can give her, and ^^ ill enable hertomakeup a noorl Family Dinner, with
what wouUi otherwise be wasted. After the Mushrooms have been squeezed,
dry them in the Dutch oven, and make McsHROOM Powder.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 371
If kept in a cool, dry place, it may be preserved for
a long time ; but if it be badly corked, and kept in a
damp place, it will soon spoil.
Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong
light behind the neck of the bottle, and if any pellicle
appears about it, boil it up again with a few pepper-
corns.
We have ordered no more Spice, &c. than is abso-
lutely necessary to feed the Catsup, and keep it from
fermenting. Brandy is an excellent preservative to all
preparations of this sort. Pickles, &c. &c.
The compound, commonly called Catsup, is generally
an injudicious combination of so many different tastes,
that the flavour of the Mushroom is overpowered by a
farrago of Garlick, Shallot, Anchovy, Mustard, Horse-
radish, Lemon-peel, Beer, Wine, Spice, &c.
Obs. — A tablespoonful of Double Catsup will
impregnate half a pint of Sauce with the full flavour of
Mushroom, in much greater perfection than either
pickled, or powder of mushrooms.
JFe have bought good Mushroum Catsup at Butler's
herb and seed shop, opposite Henrietta Street, Coient-
Garde?i.
Quintessence of Mushrooms. — (No. 440.)
This delicate Relish, is made by sprinkling a little
salt over either flap or button Mushrooms ; — three
hours after, mash them, — next day, strain off the
liquor that will flow from them, put it into a stewpan
and boil it till it is reduced to half.
It will not keep long, but is preferable to any of the
Catsups, v/hich in order to preserve them, must have
Spice, &c. which overpowers the flavour of the Mush-
rooms.
An Artificial Mushroom Bed uill supply this all the year
round.
To make Sauce with this, see (No. 307.)
372 GRAVIES AND SALCES.
Ot/i,tcr Cutsuj). — (No. 44 1 .)
Take fine fresh Milton oysters; wash them in theii
own hcjuor, skim it, pound them in a marble mortar,
to a pint of Oysters add a pint of Sherry, boil them up,
and add an ounce of salt, two drachms of pounded
mace, and one of Cayenne, — let it just boil up aj^ain,
skim it, and rub through a sieve, and when cold, bottle
it, and cork it well, and seal it down.
Ohs. — See also (No. 280.) and Obs. to (No. 278.)
N.B. It is the best way to pound the Salt and Spic€8,
<S.c. with the Oysters.
0/fs. — This composition very ajz;reeably heightens
the flavour of white sauces, and white made dishes; and
if you add a ir,-lass of brandy to it, it will keep good for
a considerable time longer tlian Oysters are out of
season in Engl.uid.
Cockle and Mtticie Catsup — (No. 442.)
May be made by treating them in the same way as
tlie Oysters in the preceding Receipt.
Pufldmg Catsup.— (No, 446.)
Half u pint of Brandy, '* Es.seucc uf Puncir (No. 479),
or " Curacua' (No. 474), or '' Xuijcau,'' a pint of
Sherry,
An ounce of thin pared Lemon peel.
Half an ounce of Mace.
Steep them for fourteen days, then strain it, and add
a (juarter pint of CapilUiire, or (No. 47.'3.) This will
keep for years, and, mixed with melted butter, is a
delicious rehsh to Puddings, and Sweet dishes. See
Puddin^: Sauce (No. 269;, and the Justice's Orange
Syrup (No. 39-2.)
Vutatoe* Starch. — (^o. 448.)
Peel, and wash a pound of full grown Potatoes, grate
* '• lotaUit.-, in v\l.attver couilicion, whether spoiled by Frost, Oerniiuatioii,
GRAVIES A^D SAtJCES. 373
them on a bread grater into a deep dish, containing a
quart of clear water ; stir it well up, and then pour it
through a hair sieve, and leave it ten minutes to settle,
till the water is quite clear : then pour off the water,
and put a quart of fresh water to it, stir it up, let it
settle, and repeat this till the water is quite clear ; you
will at last find a fine white powder at the bottom of
the vessel. (The criterion of this process being com-
pleted, is the purity of the water that comes from it
after stirring it up ) Lay this on a sheet of paper in a
hair sieve to dry, either in the sun, or before the fire,
and it is ready for use, and in a well stopped bottle
will keep good for many months.
If this be well made, half an ounce {i. e. a table -
spoonful) of it mixed with two tablespoonsful of cold
water, and stirred into a Soup or Sauce, just before
you take it up, will thicken a pint of it to the consist-
ence of Cream.
Obs. — This preparation much resembles the " I71-
dian Arrow Rout," and is a good substitute for it;
it gives a fulness on the palate to Gravies and
Sauces at hardly any expense, and by some is used to
thicken Melted butter instead of Flour.
As it is perfectly tasteless, it v/ill not alter the flavour
of the most delicate Broth, &c.
Of the Flour of Potatoes.
" A patent has been recently obtained at Paris, a
gold medal bestowed, and other honorary distinction
granted, for the discovery and practice on a large .scale
of preparing from potatoes difuie flour; a sago, a flour
equal to ground rice, and a semolina or paste, of which
lib. is equal to l^lb. rice, l|lb. vermicelli, or, it is
asserted, 8 lbs. of raw potatoes.
" These preparations are found valuable to mix with
&c., provided they are raw, eonstantly afford Starch, diflfering only in qnality,
the round grey opes the most, a ponml producing about two ounces."
Parmektjer on Nutritive Vegetablts, bvo. p. 31.
374 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
wheaten fiour for bread, to make biscuits, pastry, pie-
crusts, and for all soups, g:ruels, and panada.
" Large engagements have been made for these pre-
parations with the French marine, and military and other
hospitals, with the approbation of the faculty.
" An excellent bread, it is said, can be made of this
flour, at half the cost of wheaten bread.
" Heat having been applied in these preparations,
the articles will keep unchanirid for vears, and on board
ship, to China and back; rats, mice, worms, and insects
do not infect or destroy this flour.
'* Simply mixed with cold water, they are in ten
minutes Ht for food, when fire and all other resource
may be wanted ; and twelve ounces are sufficient for a
day's sustenance, in case of necessity.
" The Physicians and Surircons in the Hospitals, in
case of great debihty of the stomach, have employed
these preparations with advantage.
" Tlie point of tliis discovery is, the cheapness of
preparation, and the conversion of a surplus growth
of ])(jtati)es into a keeping stock, in an elegant, portable
and salubrious form."
Salad, or Piquantc Sauce for Cold Meat, Fish, S^c. —
(No. 453.) See also (No. .'372.)
Pound together
An ounce of scraped Horseradish,
Half an ounce of Salt,
A tablespoonful of made Mustard (No. 370.)
Four drachms of minced Eshallots, see (No. 402.)
Half a drachm of Celery Seed, see (No. 409.)
And half ditto of Cayenne, see (No. 404.)
Adding gradually a pint of Burnet, see (No. 399), or,
Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396), and let it stand in a Jar a
week, and then pass it through a sieve.
Curry Powder. — (No. 455.)
Dry and reduce the following Spices, &c. to a fine
powder, in the same way as in the foregoing receipt.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. , 375
Coriander Seed, three ounces.
Turmeric, three ounces.
Black Pepper, Mustard, and Ginger, one ounce of
each.
Lesser Cardamoms, half an ounce.
Cayenne Pepper,
Cummin seed, a quarter ounce of each.
Thoroughly pound and mix together, and keep them
in a well-stopped bottle.
Those who are fond of Curry Sauces may steep three
ounces of the powder in a quart of Vinegar or White
Wine for ten days, and will get a liquor impregnated
with all the flavour of the Powder.
Obs. — This receipt, was an attempt to imitate some
of the Best India Curry Pozvder, selected for me, by a
friend at the India House : — the flavour approxi-
mates to the Indian Powder so exactly, the most pro-
found Palaticians have pronounced it a perfect copy
of the original Curry Stujf.
The following remark was sent to the Editor by an
East Indian frierid.
'* The ingredients which you have selected to form the
Curry Powder, are the same as are used in India, with
this difference only, that some of them are in a raw
green state, and are mashed together, and afterwards
dried and powdered and sifted." — For Curry Sauce ^
see (No. 348.)
N.B. Chickens, — Rabbits, — Sweetbreads, — Breasts
of Veal, — Veal Cutlets, — Mutton, — Lamb, — or Pork
Chops, — Lobster, — Turbot, — Soles, — Eels, — Oysters,
&c. are dressed Curry fashion, see (No. 497), or Stew
them in (No. 329 or 348), and flavouring it with
(No. 455.)
N.B. The common fault of Curry Pow^der is the
too great proportion of Cayenne, (to the milder Aromatics
from which its agreeable flavour is derived), preventing
a sufficient quantity of the Curry Powder being used.
376 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Saiou)y Ragout Puniltr. — (No. 457.)
Salt, an ounce,
Mustard, half an ounce,
•Allspice, a quarter of an ounce,
Black Pepper irround. and Lemon peel grated, or of
(No. 407.), pounded and sifted tine, half an ounce
each,
Ginger, and
NutmeiX grated, a quarter of an ounce each,
Cayenne Pepper, two draclims.
Pound them patiently, and pass them through a tine
hair sieve ; bottle them for use. The above articles
will pound easier, and finer, if they are dried first in a
IXitch event before a very gentle fire, at a good dis-
tiince froni it; — if you giic t/icm much heat ^ the fine
Jlavour of them uill be pre.sently evaporated, and they w ill
soon jret a strong rank, empyreumatic taste.
N.B. Infused in a quart of \'inegar or Wine, tl>ey
make a savoury relish for Soups, Sauces, <Jtc.
O/y.v. — The .Sj)ices in a Ragout are indispensable to
give it a flavour, but not a predominant one; — their
presence should be rather supposed than perceived ; —
Hiey are the invisible spirit of good Cookery : indeed,
a Cook without Spice, would be as much at a loss, as
a Confectioner without Sugar : — a happy mixture of
theiTi, and proportion to each other, and the other
ingredients, is the '* chef-d'ccuxrc" of a first-rate Cook.
The art of combining Spices, &c., which may be
tern-ted the " Ilarmuny of Flaiours" no one hitherto has
attempted to teach : and '* the rule of Thumbs' is the
only Guide that experienced Cooks have heretofore
• If yon like the flavour, and do not dislikt- the expense, ii stead of Alhpice
put in Mace and Cloves. 1 he above is very fimil:ir to the Pnudcr-Jort need
ID Kin? Richard the Second's Kitchen, A. D. 13yo. See" Pegge lorme </
i.ury," p. x\x.
+ i he back part of tlicse Ovens is so mnch hotter than that which k next
the Cre, that to dry things equally, their situation must be frequently changed,
or those at the back of lb* oven \sili be done too much, before those ui the
front are done er.oueh.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
377
given for the assistance of the Novice, — in the (till now,
in these pages explained, and rendered, we hope, per-
fectly intelligible to the humblest capacity,) Occult
Art of Cookery. — This is the fir d time Receipts in
Cooker i/ have been given accurately by weight or measure ! ! !
(See Obs. on '' the Education of a Cook's Tongue,''
pages 62 and 63.)
PEA POWDER. —(No. 458.)
Pound together in a marble mortar half an ounce each
of dried Mint and Sage, — a drachm of Celery Seed, —
and a quarter drachm of Cayenne Pepper ; rub them
through a fine sieve. This gives a very savoury relish
to Pea Soup, and to Watergruel, which, by its help,
if the eater of it has not the most lively imagination, he
may fancy he is sipping good Pease Soup.
Obs.— A drachm of i\llspice, or Black repper,maybe
pounded with the above, as an addition, or instead of
the Cayenne.
Horseradish Powder. — {"So. 458*.)
The time to make this, is during November and
December ; slice it the thickness of a shilling, and lay
it to dry very gradually in a Dutch oven, (a strong li^at
soon evaporates its flavour), when dry enough, pound
it and bottle it.
Ol^s, _ See Horseradish Vinegar (No. 399.*)
Soup-herb Powder, or Vegetable P\.elish. — (No. 459.)
Dried Parsley,
Winter Savory,
Sweet Marjoram,
Lemon-thyme, of each two ounces ;
Lemon-peel, cut very thin and dried, and
Sweet Basil, an ounce of each.
*^* Some add to the above. Bay-leaves and Celery Seed,
a drachm of each.
Dry them in a warm, but not too hot Dutch oren :
378 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
when quite dried, pound them in a mortar, and pass
them through a double hair sieve : put in a bottle
closely stopped, they will retain their tVagrance and
Havour for several montlis.
N.B. These Herbs are in full perfection in July and
August, see (No. 461.*) An infusion of the above in
Vinegar or Wine, makes a good relishing Sauce, but
the Havour is best when made witli fresh gathered
herbs, as directed in (No. 397.)
Obs. — This composition of the fine aromatic herbs,
is an invaluable acquisition to the Cook, at those seasons
or situations when fresh herbs cannot be had ; and \vc
prefer it to the Ragout powder (No. 457), it impregnates
sauce, soup, Arc. with as nnich relish, and renders it
agreeable to the palate, and refreshes the gustatory
nerves, without so much risk of oft'ending the Stomach,
ikQ.
Soup-herb and Savoury Pouder, or QuinfcjiJiCticc of
Ragout. — (No. 460.)
Take three parts of Soup-herb powder (No. 459), to
one part of Savoury powder (No. 457.)
Obs. — This agreeable combination of the aromatic
Spices and Herbs should be kept ready prepared; it
will save a great deal of time in cooking Ragouts,
Stuffings, Forcemeat balls, Soups, Sauces, &c. ; kept
dry and tightly corked down, its fragrance and strength
may be preserved undiminished for some time.
N.B. Three ounces of the above will impregnate a
quart of Vinegar or Wine with a very agreeable relish.
To Dry Sweet and Savoury Herbs. — (No. 461.)
For the following accurate and xaluablc Information
the Reader is indebted to Mr. Butler, Herbalist and
Seedsman, (opposite Henrietta Street), Covent Garden
Market, of whom the several articles may be obtained
of the best Quality, at the fair ]Market Price.
** It is very important to those who are not in the
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 379
constant habit of attending the markets, to know when
the various seasons commence for purchasing sweet
HERBS.
" All Vegetables are in the highest state of perfection,
and fullest of juice and flavour, just before they begin
to flower: — the first ana ast crop have neither the
fine flavour nor the perfume of those which are gathered
in the height of the season ; that is, when the greater
part of the crop of each species is ripe.
" Take care they are gathered on a dry day, by which
means they will have a better colour when dried.
Cleanse your herbs rvcll fro?n dirt and dust*, cut off" the
roots, separao^e the bunches into smaller ones, and dry
them by the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before
a common fire, in such quantities at a time, that the pro-
cess may be speedily finished, /. e. " Kill *em quick" says
a great Botanist; — by this means, their flavour will
be best preserved, — there can be no doubt of the pro-
priety of drying herbs, &c. hastily, by the aid of arti-
ficial heat rather than by the heat of the sun. In the
application of artificial heat, the only caution requisite
is to avoid burning ; and of this, a sufl&cient test is af-
forded by the preservation of the colour." — The common
custom is, when they are perfectly dried, to put them in
Bags, and lay them in a dry place, but the best way to
preserve the flavour of aromatic plants, is to pick oflP
the leaves as soon as they are dried, and to pound them
and put them through a hair sieve, and keep them
in well-stopped Bottles,! see (No. 459.)
Basil is in the best state for drying from the
* "fhis is sadly neglected by those vlio dry herbs for sale. If you buy
them ready dried, before you pound them, cleanse them from dirt and dnst,
by stripping the leaves from the stalks, and rub them between your hands
over a hair sieve, — put them into the sieve, and shake them well, and the
dust will go through.
+ The common custom is, to put them into paper bags, and lay them on a
?helf in the Kitchen, exposed to all the fumes, steam, aud smoke, &c. : thus
(hey soon lose their flavour.
380
GRAVIES AND SALCES.
middle of August, and three weeks after, see
(No. 397 )
Knotted Marjoram, from the beginning of July,
and during the same.
Winter Savory, the latter end of July, and
tliroughout August, see Obs. to (No. 397.)
Summer Savory, the latter end of July, and
tliroughout August.
Thyme,
Lemon-Thyme,
Orange-Thyme,* during June and July.
Mint, latter end of June, and duriui^ July, see
(No. 398.)
Sage, August and September.
Tarragon, June, July, August, see (No. 396.)
Chervil, May, June, July, see (No. 264.)
Burnet, June', July, August, see (No. 399.)
pARSLEv,May, June, and July, see N.B.to(No.'261.)
Fexnel, May, June, July.
Elder Flowers, May, June, July.
Orange Flowers, May, June, July.
N.B. Herbs nicely dried, are a very acceptable sub-
stitute when f res /i ones cannot be got, — but, however
carefully dried, th • flavour and fragance of the fresh
herbs is incomparably finer.
PICKLES. — (No. 462.)
Commencing the list with Walnuts, I must take
this opportunity of impressing the necessity of being
strictly particular in watching the due season ; for of
all the variety of articles in this department, to furnish
the well-regulated store-room, nothing is so precarious,
— for frequently after the first week that Walnuts come
• A delicious herb, Ihat deserves to be better known.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 381
in season, they become hard and shelled, particularly
if the season is a very hot one : therefore let the prudent
housekeeper consider it indispensably necessary they
should be purchased as soon as they first appear at
market ; — should they cost a trifle more, that is nothing
compared to the disappointment of finding six months
hence, when you go to your pickle jar expecting a fine
relish for your Chops, &c., to find the nuts incased in
a shell, which defies both teeth and steel : I there-
fore recommend you to look for Walnuts from the
twelfth of July ; that being, I may say, the earliest pos-
sible time.
Nastertiums are to be had by the middle of July.
Garlick, from Midsummer to Michaelmas.
EsiiALLOTs, ditto.
Onions, the various kinds for pickling, are to be
had by the middle of July, and for a month after.
Gherkins are to be had by the middle of July, and
for a month after.
Cucumbers are to be had by the middle of July, and
for a month after.
Melons and Mangoes are to be had by the middle
of July, and for a month after.
Capsicums, green, red, and yellow, the end of July,
and following month.
Chilies, the end of July, and following month.
See (Nos. 404 and 405* and No. 405*^)
Love Apples, or Tomatas, end of July, and
throughout August. See (No. 443.)
Cauliflower, for pickling, July and August.
Artichokes, for pickling, July and August.
Jerusalem Artichokes, for pickling, July and
August, and for three months after.
Radish Pods, for pickling, July.
French Beans, for pickling, July.
Mushrooms, for pickling and catsup, September.
See (No. 439.)
382
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Red Cabbage, August.
WjiiTE Cabbage, September and October.
Samphire, August.
Horseradish, November and December.
For Receipts lor Pickling, seethe Appendix,
THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE. -(No. 463.)
This is a convenient auxiliary to the Cook. —
It may be arranged as a pyramidical Epergnc for a
Dormant in the centre of the table, or as a Travelling
Store Chest.
The fi)llowing Sketch will enable any one to tit up
an assortment of Havourin^^ materials according to
their own fancy and palate, and we presume, will
furnish sufficient variety for the amusement of the
gustatory nerves of a thorough-bred Grand Gourmand
of the first magnitude, (if Cayenne and Garlick — have
not completely consumed the sensibility of his Palate,)
and consists of a " Sauce Box," containing four eight-
ounce bottles,* sixteen four ounce, and eight two-ounce-
bottles :
1 Pickles.
2 Brandy.
3 Curavoa (\o. 474.)
4 Syrup (Yio. 175-)
5 Salad Sauce (Noi. 372 and 453.)
6 Pudding Catsup (No. 446.)
7 Sauce Superlative, or double relish
(No. 429.)
8 Walnut pickle.
9 Mushroom Catsup (No. 439-)
10 Vinegar.
n Oil.
12 Mustard, see (Nos. 370, and 427.)
13 Salt, see (No. 371.)
14 Curry Powder (No. 435.)
15 Soy (No. 436.)
16 Lemon Juice.
17 L.'seuce of Anchovy (No. 433.)
18 Pepper.
19 Cayenne (Nog. 405, or 405»*.)
20 Soup-herb Powder (No. 459.)
CI Ragout Powder (No. 457.)
22 Pea Powder (No. 458.)
£3 Zest (No. 255.)
24 Essence of Celery (No, 409.)
25 Sweet Herbs (No. 419.)
26 Lemon Peel (No. 408.)
27 Eshallot Wine (No. 402.)
2» Powdered Mint.
• If the bottles are square, and marked to quarter ounces as Lyne's
graduated measures are, it will save trouble in compounding.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
383
In a drawer under.
Half a dozen one ounce bottles.
"Weights and scales.
A graduated glass measure, divided
into tea and table spoons.
Corkscrew.
Nutmeg grater.
Table and tea-spoon.
Knite and fork.
A steel, and a
Small mortar.
I
1
5
1.}
21
6
14
22
7
15
23
2
8
16
24
9
17
25
10
18
26
—
11
19
27
i
12
CO
28
N.B. The portable Magazine of Taste alluded
to in page 51, may be furnished with — a four-ounce
bottle for Cogniac (No. 471),~a ditto for Curagoa
(No. 474), an ounce bottle for Essence of Anchovy
(No. 433), — and one of like size for Cayenne Pepper
(No. 404, or 405.)
Toast and Water.— {^o. 463*.)
Cut a Crust of Bread off a stale loaf, about twice
the thickness toast is usually cut, toast it carefully
until it be completely browned all over, but not at all
blackened or burnt : put this in a jug, pour upon it as
much boiling water as you wish to make into drink,
cover the jug, and let it stand till it is quite cold : the
fresher it is the better.
Obs.—A roll of thin fresh cut Lemon or dried Orange
Peel, or some Currant Jelly (No. 475*), Apples shced
or roasted, &c. infused with the bread, are grateful
additions.
N. B. This is a refreshing Su7?imer Drink ; and when
the proportion of the fluids is destroyed by profuse
perspiration— may be drunk plentifully. Let a large
3^ GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
jug be made early in the day — it will then become
warmed by the heat of the air, and may be drunk
witliout danger — which water, Cold as it comes from
the well, cannot in Hot weather.
Or,
To make it more expeditiously, put the bread into a
muo-, and just cover it with boiling water ; let it stand
till cold, then fill it up with cold spring water, and
pour it through a fine sieve.
Obs. — The above is a pleasant and excellent beve-
rage, grateful to the Stomach, and deserves a con-
stant place by the Bedside.
Cool Tankard, or llccr Cup. — (No. 464.)
A quart of mild Ale, a glass of white Wine, one of
Brandy, one of Capillaire, the juice of a Lemon, a roll
of the Peel pared thin, Nutmeg grated at the top, (a
sprig of Borrage* or Kalm,) and a bit of toasted Bread.
Cider Cup— (So. 4G5.)
Is the same, — only substituting Cider for Beer.
r/ip, _ (\o. 466.)
Keep grated Ginger and Nutmeg with a little fine
dried Lemon Peel rubbed together in a mortar.
To make a quart of Flip: — Put the Ale on the fire
to warm, — and beat up three or four Eggs with four
ounces of moist Sugar, a teaspoonful of grated Nutmeg
or Ginger, and a quartern of good old Rum or Brandy.
• " lioRRAGK is oue of Ihe fonr Cordial f?owers;" it coinforts the heart,
chetrs melancholy, and revives the fHintiig «pii its, sa>s Salmon in the 45th
page of his " IJtmuhuld Comjiatiion," London, 1710. Aiu\ Evvl\n, in
pa^e 13 ui b\< Acetoria, say?," the sprigs, in nine, are of kno\vii viitue
to revive the Ilypoclondriac, and cheer the hard Sludtni."— Combimd with
the ingredients in tiie above Peceipt, we have Ireqnently observed it produce
all the Cardiac and Exhilarating effects ascribed to it.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 385
When the Ale is near to boil, put it into one pitcher,
and the Rum and Eggs, &c. into another ; — turn it from
one pitcher to another till it is as smooth as Cream.
N.B. This quantity I styled 0/ie Yard of Flannel.
Obs. — The above is given in the words of the Pub-
lican who gave us the Receipt.
Tewahdiddle, — (No. 467.)
A pint of Table Beer, (or Ale, if you intend it for a
supplement to your ** Night-Cap,") a tablespoonful of
Brandy, and a teaspoonful of brown Sugar, or clarified
Syrup (No. 475;) — a little grated Nutmeg or Ginger
may be added, and a roll of very thin cut Lemon Peel.
Obs. — Before our readers make any remarks on this
Composition, we beg of them to taste it; if the materials
are good, and their palate vibrates in unison with our
own, they will find it one of the pleasantest beverages
they ever put to their lips, — and, as Lord Rut kt en says,
" this is a right Gossip's Cup, that far exceeds all the
Ale tlmt ever Mothep. Bunch made in her life-time." —
See his Lordship's Experiments on Cookery, Syc. 18mo.
London, 1654, page 215.
Sir Fleetwood Shepherd's Sack Posset.
(No. 467*.)
" From fam'd Barbadoes on the western main
Fetch Sugar ounces fonr— fetch Sack from Spain,
A pint, — and from the Eastern Indian Coast
Kutmeg, the glory of our northern toast;
O'er flaming Coals let them together heat.
Till the all-conquering Sack dissolve the sweet ;
O'er such another fire, put Eggs jnst ten,
New-born from tread ot Cock and Rump of Hen:
Stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking
To see the untimely end often fine Chicken ;
From shining shelf take down the brazen skiiiet, —
A quart of milk from gentle Cow will fill ic.
When boil'd and cold, put milk and Sack to Eggs,
Unite them firmly like the triple league.
And on the fire let them together dwell
Till Miss sing twice — you must not kiss and tell —
Each lad and lass take up a silver spoon,
And fall on fiercely like a starved Dragoon,"
386 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
To bottle Beer.—{^o. 468.)
When the briskness and livehness of malt liquors In
the cask fail, and they become dead and vapid, which
they s^cnerally do soon after they are tilted, — let them
be Bottled.
Be careful to use clean and dried bottles ; leave them
unstopped for twelve hours, and then cork them as
closely as possible with good and sound new Corks ; put
a bit of lump sugar as big as a nutmeg into each
bottle : the Beer will be ripe, i. c. fine and sparkling,
in about four or five weeks ; if the ueathcr is cold, to
jnit it up, the day before it is to he drank, place it in a
room uhcrc there is a Fire.
Remember there is a sediment, S:c. at the bottom
of tlie Bottles, which you must carefully avoid dis-
turbing,— so pour it oft at once, leaving a wineglassfuj
at the botl(;ra.
*^' If Beer becomes Hard or Stale, a few grains of
Carbonate (f Potash, added to it at the time it is drank,
■will correct it, and make Draught Beer as briik as Bottled
Ale.
Rich Raspberry Jtlne or Brandy. — (No. 469.)
Bruise tlie finest ripe Raspberries v.'ith the back of a
spoon, strain them through a flannel bag into a stone
jar, allowing a Pound of fine powdered Loaf Sugar to
each quart of juice ; stir it well together, and cover it
down ; let it stand for three days, stirring it up each
day ; pour off' the clear, and put two quarts of Sherry,
or one of Cogniac Brandy, to each quart of juice ;
bottle it off": it will be fit for the glass in a fortnight.
N.B. Or make it with the Jelly (No. 479.)
Liqueurs. — (No. 47L)
We have very little to tell from our own experience,
and refer our Reader to " Nouvelle Chimie du
Gout et de l'Odorat, ou CArt du Distillatevr, du
Confi^eur, et du Parfumeur, mis (i la portee de tout le
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 387
iWofw/e,"— Paris, 2 torn. 8vo. 1819;— and to Jarrik's
Italian CGnfectioner, Lond. 1820.
Next to teaching how to make good things at home,
is the information where those things may be procured
ready made, of the best quality.
It is in rain, to attempt to imitate the best Foreign
Liqueurs, unless we can obtain the pure vinous
spirit with which they are made.
JoHxsoN and Co., Foreign Liqueur and Brandy
Merchants to his Majesty and the Royal Family ^ No. 2,
Colonnade, Pall Mall, are justly famous for importing
Brandy of the best quality, and selling it in a genuine
state, and 71 varieties of Foreign Liqueurs, &c.,
and that agreeable and excellent coup-d'apres, " Es-
sence OF Punch."
His " WiTTE CURA90A" is a Bonne Bovche for an
Emperor.
Curafoa. — (No. 474.)
Put five ounces of thin cut Seville Orange Peel, that
has been dried and pounded, into a quart of the finest
and cleanest Rectified Spirit, (sold by Rickards,
Distiller, Piccadilly), — after it has been infused a
fortnight, strain it, and add a quart of Syrup, and
filter ; see the following Receipt : —
To make a Quart ofCuracoa.
To a pint of the cleanest and strongest Rectified Spirit,
(sold by Rickards, Piccadilly), add two drachms and
a half of the Smet Oil of Orange Peel, (sold by Stewart,
No. 11, Old Broad Street, near the Bank), shake it up,
— dissolve a pound of good Lump Sugar in a pint of
cold water, make this into a Clarified Syrup (No. 475),
which add to the Spirit, shake it up, and let it stand
till the following day — then line a funnel with a piece
of muslin, and that with filtering paper, and filter it
two or three times till it is quite bright. This Liqueur
is an admirable cordial — and a teaspoonful in a
s2
388 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
Turabkr of water, is a very refreshing Summer Drink,
and a great improvement to Punch.
Obs. — We do not offer this Receipt as a Rival to
Mr. Johnson's Cura^oa — it is only proposed as an
humble substitute for that incomparable Liqueur.
Clarified S}/rup. — (No. 475.)
Break into l^its two Pounds (avoirdupois) of double
refined Lump Sugar, and put it into a clean stewpan
(that is well tinned), with a Pint of cold spring water ;
wlicn the Sugar is dissolved, set it over a moderate
fire : beat ?bout half the white of an Egg, put it to the
Sugar before it gets warm, and stir it well together.
Watch it, and when it boils take off the scum ; keep
it boiling till no scum rises, and it is perfectly clear,
then run it through a clean napkin : put it into a
close stopped bottle ; it will keep for months, and
is an Elegant Article on the Sideboard for Sweetening.
Obs. — The proportion of Sugar ordered in the above
Syrup, is a quarter pound more than that directed in
the Pharmacopaia of the London College of Physicians.
The quantity of Sugar must be as much as the liquor
is capable of keeping dissolved when cold, or it will
ferment, and quickly spoil ; if kept in a temperate
degree of heat, the above proportion of Sugar may be
considered the basis of all Syrups.
Capillaire.— (So. 476.)
To a pint of Clarified Syrup add a wineglass of
Cura^oa (No. 474), — or dissolve a drachm of Oil of
Keroli in two ounces of Rectified Spirit, and add a few
drops of it to Clarified Syrup.
Lemonade in a Minute, — (No. 477.)
Pound a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of Citric,
i. e. crystallized Lemon Acid *, with a few drops of
• Tartaric is ouly half the price of Citric Acid — bnt is very inferior in
flavour, &c. ; and those who prepare this Syrnp for Home Consumption, wiU
always use the Citric.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 389
quintessence of Lemon Peel (No. 408), and mix it by
degrees with a pint of Clarified Syrup (No. 475), or
Capillaire.
For Superlative S^rup of Lemons ^ see (No. 391.)
Obs. — The proportion of Acid to the Syrup, v/as
that selected (from several specimens) by the Com-
mittee OF Taste. We advise those who are dis-
posed to verify our Receipt, to mix only three-quarters
of a pint of Syrup first, and add the other quarter if
they find it too Acid.
If you have none of (No. 408), flavour your Syrup
with thin cut Lemon Peel, or use Svrup of Lemon Peel
(No. 393.)
A tablespoonful of this in a pint of v/ater will imme-
diately produce a very agreeable Sherbet ; the addition
of Rum and Brandy will convert this into
PUXCH DIRECTLY. — (No. 478.)
Slirub, or Essence of Punch. — (No. 479.)
Brandy or Rum, flavoured with (No. 477), will give
you very good Extempore " Essexce of Punch."
Obs. — The addition of a quart of Sherry or Madeira
makes " Punch Royal;" if, instead of wine, the
above quantity of water be added, it will make " Fundi
for Chambermaids f' according to Salmon's Cookery,
Svo. London, 1710: see page 405 ; and (No. 268), in
Nott's Cook's Dictionary, Svo. 1724.
White, Pud, or Black — Currant, — Grape, — JRaspberri',
4'c. Je//j/. — (No. 479*.)
Are all made precisely in the same manner. When
the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day ; — as soon
as it is nicely picked, put it into a Jar, and cover it
down very close.
Set the Jar in a Saucepan about three parts filled
with cold water; put it on a gentle fire, and let it
simmer for about half an hour. Take the pan from
390 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
the fire, and pour the contents of the Jar into a Jelly-
Bag: pass the juice through a second time; — (do not
squeeze the bag.)
To each Pint of juice add a pound and a half of
good Lump Sugar pounded ; when it is dissolved, put
it into a preserving pan, set it on the fire, and boil
gently, stirring and skimming it the whole time, (about
twenty minutes), i. c. till no more scum rises, — it will
be then perfectly clear and fine ; pour it while warm
into pots, — and when cold, cover them with paper
wetted in Brandy.
Haifa pint of this Jelly, dissolved in a pint of Brandy
or Vinegar, will give you excellent Currant or Rasp-
berry Brandy or Vinegar. To make Sweet Sauce,
(No' 346.)
Obs. — Jellies /rom other fruits are made in the
same u^ai/, — and cannot be preserved in perfection
without plenty of good Sugar.
The best way is the cheapest, — Jellies made with
too small a proportion of Sugar — require boiling so
long — there is much more waste of juice and flavour
by evaporation than the due quantity of Sugar costs ;
and they neither look nor taste half so delicate, as
when made with a proper proportion of Sugar, and
moderate boiling.
Mock Arrack. — (So. 480)
Dissolve two scruples of flowers of Benjamin in a
quart of good Rum, and it will immediately impart to
it the inviting fragrance of " Vauxhall Nectar."
Cakes -feet Jelli/. — (No. 481.)
Take four Calves' Feet, (not those which are sold at
Tripe-shops, which have been boiled till almost all the
Gelatine is extracted,— but buy them at the Butcher's ;)
slit them in two, take away the Fat from between
the claws, wash them well in lukewarm water, then
put them in a large stewpan, and cover them with
GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
391
Water; when the liquor boils, skim it well, and let
it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may be re-
duced to about two quarts, then strain it through a
sieve, and skim all the oily substance which is on the
surface of the liquor.
If you are not in a hurry, it is better to boil the
Calves' feet the day before you make the Jelly, as
when the liquor is cold, the oily part being at the top,
and the other being firm, with pieces of kitchen paper
applied to it, you may remove every particle of the
oily substance, without wasting any of the Liquor.
Put the Liquor in a stewpan to melt, with a pound
of Lump Sugar, the peel of two Lemons, the juice
of six, six whites of Eggs and shells beat together,
and a bottle of Sherry or Madeira ; whisk the whole
together until it is on the boil, then put it by the
side of the stove, and let it simmer a quarter of an
hour; strain it through a Jelly-bag; what is strained
first must be poured into the bag again, until it is as
bright and as clear as rock water; then put the Jelly
in moulds, to be cold and firm ; if the weather is too
warm, it requires some ice.
Ohs. — VVhen it is required to be very stiff, half an
ounce of Isinglass may be added when the Wine is
put in.
It may be flavoured by the juice of various Fruits,
&c. and Spices, &c. and coloured with Saffron, —
Cochineal, — Red Beet Juice, — Spinage Juice, —
Claret, &c. — and it is sometimes made with Cherry
Brandy, or Noi/eau Rouge, — or Curagoa (No. 474),
or Essetice of Punch (No. 479), instead of Wine.
N.B. Ten Shank Bones of Mutton, which may
be bought for 2if/., will give as much Jelly as a Calfs
foot, which costs a Shilling.— See the 20th and follow-
ing lines in page 296 of this work.
THE
COOK^S ORACLE
MADE DISHES, &c.
Receipts fur Economical Made Disiiks, uritten for
the Cook's Oh.aclk — b\/ an occowplislied Exglisii
Lady. — (No. 483.)
These Experiments have arisen from my aversion to
Cold Meat, and my preference of what are termed
French Dishes; with wliich (by a certain manas^c-
ment) 1 think I can furnish my table at far less ex-
pense — than is generally incurred in getting up a
Plain Dinner.
GuAVY OR Sour Meats I never buy, — and yet am
seldom without a good provision of what is technically
denominated Stock.
"^Vhen, as it frequently happens, we have Ha^i
dressed, if the Joint be above the weight of seven
pounds, I have it cut in half, and prepared in the
following manner: — First, ensure that it has been
properly soaked, scraped, and cleaned to a nicety, —
then, put it into an Earthen Vessel as near its own size
as possible, with just as much water as will cover it,
to which add four Onions, a clove of Garlick, half a
dozen Shallots, a Bay leaf, a bunch of Sweet herbs,
half a dozen Cloves, a few Peppercorns and Allspice :
this should be well closed, and kept simmering about
three hours. It is then served with Raspings or with
Glazing, the rind having first been taken off neatly. —
MADE DISHES, &C. 393
The liquor is strained, and kept till Poultry of any sort,
or Meat, is boiled, when the liquor in which they have
been dressed should be added to it, and boiled down
fa^t till reduced to about three pints : when cold, it
will be a highly flavoured, well coloured Jelly*, and
ready for Sauce for all kinds of R<igouts and Hashes,
&c. &c.
A Fillet of Veal, I divide into Three Parts; the
Meat, before it is skewered, will of itself indicate where
the partition is natural, and will pull asunder as you
would quarter an Orange; — the Largest Piece should
be stuffed with (No. 374, or 375), and rolled up, com-
pactly skewered, &c. and makes a veiy pi-etty small
Fillet — the square Jkit Piece will either €ut into Cutlets
(No. 90, or 521), or slice for a Pie — and the Thick
Piece must be well larded and dressed as a Fricaiukau
— which I do in the following manner: — Put the
larded Veal into a stev/pan just big enough to contain
it, with as much water as will cover it; when it has
simmered till delicately white, and so tender as to be
cut with a Spoon, it must be taken out of the water
and set apart, — and it will be ready to serve up
either with Sorrel, Tomata, Mushrooms (No, 305, or
439), or some of the above-mentioned Stock — the
Fricandeau being previously coloured with Glazing —
if with Mushrooms, they should be first parboiled in
Salt and Vinegar, and water, which gives them flavour,
and keeps them good colour.
The Sirloin of beef / likewise divide into Three
Parts ; I first have it nicely honed.
The Under part, or Fillet, as the French call it, will
dress (when cut into slices) excellently, either as plain
Steaks (No. 94), Curry (No. 497) ; or,' it may be larded
whole, and gently stev.'ed in two quarts of water (a Bay
leaf, two Onions, their skins roasted brown, four Cloves,
Allspice, &c. &c.) till tender, when it should be taken
♦ This may bestiil longer preserved — hy the process diiecled in (No. 252.)
s 5
394 MADE DISHES, Sec.
out, drained quite dry, and put away — it is then
ready to be used at any time in the following- manner:
— Season and dredge it well, then put it into a stew-
pan in which a piece of Butter has been previously
fried to a fine froth ; when the Meat is sufficiently
brown, take it out, and throw into the pan half a dozen
middle-sized Onions to do a fine Gold Colour; that
accomplished, (durinj:^ which the Dredger should be in
constant use,) add half a pint of Stock, and a tea-
spoonful of Tarragon Vinegar (No, 396), and let the
Onions stew gently till nearly tender; the Beef should
then be returned to the stewpan, and the whole suffered
to simmer till the meat is warm through: care must be
taken that the Onions do not break, and they should
be served round the Beef \vith as much Sauce as will
look graceful in the dish. The Fillet is likewise very
good without t/ie Jricd Onions; — in that case, you
should chop and mix up together, a Shallot, some
Parsley, a few Capers and the Yolk of a hard Egg,
and strew them lightly over the surface of the Beef,
Tin- Fat End of the Sirloin and Bones should be put
to simmer in the li(|Uor, in which the Fillet was first
stewed, and done till the Beef looks loose; it should
then be put away into a deep vessel, and the Soup
strained over it, which cooling with the Fat upon the
top (thereby excluding the air), will keep as long as
may be required; — when the Soup is to be used, the
fat 'must be cleared from it, — a Carrot, Parsnip, a
head of Celery, a Leek, and three Turnips, cleaned
and .scalded, should be added to it, and the whole
sufiered to simmer gently till the vegetables are quite
done, when they must be strained from the liquor, and
the Soup served up with large square thick pieces of
toa>^tcd bread.
Those who like a Plain Bouillt warm the Beef in the
Soup, and serve it up with the Turnips and Carrots
which had been strained before from the Soup. A
White Cabbage quartered, is no bad addition to the
MADE DISHES, 8vC. 395
(Garnish of the Bouilli, or to the flavour of the Soup.
If it is a Dressed Bouilli, sliced Carrots and Button
Onions should be stewed in thickened Stock, and
poured over the Meat
A Neck of Muftun,honed, sprinkled with dried Sage,
powdered fine, or (No. 378) seasoned and rolled and
roasted, is very good. T/ie Bones and Scrag make
excellent Gravy stewed down, and if done very gently,
the Meat is not bad eating. The same herbs should
be put to it, as to other Stocks, with the addition of a
Carrot; this will make very good Mutton Broth. In
short, wherever there are Bancs or Trinwiings to be got
out of any Meat that is dressed in my Kitchen, they
are made to contribute towards Soup or Gravy, or
(No. 252.)
Instead of roasting a Hare (which at best is but dry
food), stew it, if Young, Plain, — if an Old one, Lard it.
The Shoulders and Legs should be taken off, and the
Back cut into three pieces ; these, with a Bay leaf, half
a dozen Shallots, one Onion pierced with four Cloves,
should be laid with as much good vinegar as will cover
ihem, for twenty-four hours in a deep dish. In the
mean time, the Head, Neck, Ribs, Liver, Heart, &c. &c.
should be browned ia frothed Butter well seasoned —
add half a pound of lean Bacon cut into small pieces, a
large bunch of Herbs, a Carrot, and a few Allspice • —
simmer these in a quart of water till it be reduced to
about half the quantity, when it should be strained,
and those parts of the Hare which have been infused
in the vinegar, should (v.'ith the whole contents of the
dish) be added to it, and stewed till quite done. Those
who like Onions may brown half a dozen, stew them
in a part of the Gravy, and dish them round the
Hare.
When it comes from the table, supposing some to
be left, the Meat should be taken from the Bones, and
with a few Forcemeat balls, the remains of the Gravy,
and about a quarter of a pint of Red Wine aad a pro-
396 MADE DISHES, SCC.
portionable quantity of water, it will make a very pretty
Soup — to those who have no objection to Catsup,
(No. 439), a spoonful in the original Gravy is an im-
provement, as indeed it is in every made Dish where
the Mushroom itself is not at command.
Every Razout, in my opinion, should be dressed the
day before it is wanted, that any Faf which has escaped
the skimming spoon, may with case be taken off when
oold.
Calf's Head. — Take the half of one, with the
skin on, — put it into a larc^e stewpan with as much
water as will cover it, a knuckle of Ham, and the usual
accompaniments of Onions, Herbs, &:c. dv-c. and let it
simmer till the flesh may be separated from the bone
with a Spoon — do so, and while still hot cut it into as
large a sized sijuarc as the piece will admit of; — the
trimmings and half the liquor put by in a tureen; to
the rcmainiii2" half add a gill of White Wine, and reduce
the whole of that hy quick boi/ing till it is again half
consume^, when it should be ])Oured over the large
square piece in an Earthen Vessel surrounded ^vith
Mushrooms, white Button Onions, small pieces of
Pickled Pork (half an inch in breadth, and one and a
half in length), and the Tongue in slices, and simmered
till the whole is fit to serve up; some browned Force-
meat balls are a pretty addition. After this comes from
the Table, the remains should be cut into small pieces
and mixed up with the Trimmings and licpjor, which
(with a little more wine) properly thickened, will make
a very frofXi Mock Turtle Soup for a future occasion.
To Ha.^h Mutton, cSc — (No. 484.)
Cut the Meat into handsome slices, and trim off all
the sinews, skin and gristle, &c. — put in nothing but u-hat
is to be eaten, lay tliem on a plate, ready ; prepare your
Sauce as receipt (No. 360), or (No. 451), or (No. 486),
put in the Meat, and let it simmer gently till it h
MADE DISHES, &C. 397
thoroughly warm ; — do not let it Boil, as that will make
the Meat tough and hard*, and it will be, as Joax
Cromwell t has it, a Harsh.
Obs. — Select for your Hash, those parts of the joint
that are least done. It is a mode of Cookery by no
means suited to delicate stomachs ; unless the Meat,
&c, be considerably under-done the first time — a second
dressing must spoil it.
To WARM Hashes t' — Q^o. 485.)
Made Dishes, — Stews, — Ragouts,— Soups, &c. Put
what you have left, into a deep hash dish, or tureen :
when you w ant it, set this in a stewpan of boiling water ;
let it s*^tand till the contents are quite warm.
To Hash Beef, cSr. — (No. 486.)
Put a pint and a half of Broth, — or Water, with an
ounce of (No. 252), or a large tablespoonful of Mushroom
Catsup into a stewpan with the Gravy you have saved
that was left from the Beef, and put in a quarter ounce
of onion sliced very tine, and boil it about ten minutes ;
put a large tablespoonful of Flour into a basin, just wet
* Hashes and r.Ieats dressel a second time, should only simmer gently,
till just uarm through ; it is supposed they have beeu done very nearly, if
not quite tiiougb, alreatly : select those parts of the joint that have been least
done.
In making a Hash from a Leg of Mutton, do not destroy the Marrow-
bone to help the gravy of your h:ish, to 'svhich it "witl make no perceptible
addition; but saw it in two, twist writing paper round the ends, and send it
up on a plate as a side dish, garnished with sprr;4s of pai-sley : — if it is a
Roast leg, preserve the end bone, atid send it up between the marrow-
hones. This is a very preity Luncheon, or Supper dish.
t See " the Court and AltcAc7J o/" Elizabeth, commonly called Joa7i
Cromwell," l6mo., London, l664, page 10(j.
i The " Bain-Marie," or Watkr-b\th, see note to QSo. 529), is the best
utensil to warm up made dishes, and ihiiigs that have "been already sufficiently
dreised, as it neillier coiisnir.cs the sauce, nor hardens the meat : — if you have
iK>f a V>;Tter-Bath, a Dutch Oven will sometimes supply the place of it.
" Bain-]\Larie" is a flat vessel contaioing boiling water; you put all your
stewpans into the v«ater, and keep that v,'ater always very hot, but it must
not boil ; the effect of this Eain-Marie is to keep every thing warm ■withont
altering either the quantity or the quality, particalarly the quality. When I
had the honour of serving a Nobleman who kept a very extensive hunting
establishment, and the hour of dinner was consequently uncertain, I was in
the habit of irsing Bain-Marie, as a certain means of preserving tlie flavoor
of all my dishes. If you keep your sauce or broth or soup by the fireside, the
398 MADE DISHES, &.C.
it with a little water, mix it well tog;ether, and then stir
it into the broth, and give it a boil for five or ten
minutes, rub it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive
the Beef, &c., let it stand by the side of the fire, till
the Meat is warm.
N.B. A teaspoonful of Parsley chopped as fine as
possible, and put in five minutes before it is served up,
is a great addition ; — others like half a wines^lass of Port
wine, and a dessertspoonful of Currant Jelly.
Sec also (No. 3^0), wijich will show you every variety
of manner of making and flavouring the most highly
finished Hash Sauce, and (Nos. 484, 485, and 506.)
CoU Meat Broiled, uith Poached Eggs.— (So. 487.)
The inside of a Sirloin of Beef is best for this dish,
or a Leg of Mutton. Cut the slices of even and equal
tliickness, and broil and brown them carefully and
slightly over a clear smart fire, or in a Dutch oven, give
those slices most lire that are least done ; — lay them in
a dish before the lire to keep hot, while you poach the
Eggs, as directed in (No. 546), and mashed Potatoes
(No. 106.)
0/«. — This makes a savoury Luncheon or Supper, —
but is more relishing than nourishing, unless the Meat
was under-done the first time it was dressed.
No. 307 for Sauce, to which some add a few drops
of Shallot wine or vinegar. See (No. 402), or (No. 439),
or (No. 359), \varmed, — or Grill Sauce (No. 355.)
Mrs. Phillips's Iri.'>h Sfc-u:. — (No. 488.)
Take five thick Mutton Chops or two pounds off the
neck or loin ; four pounds of Potatoes ; peel them, and
cut them in halves ; six Onions, or half a pound of
onions, peel and slice them also; — first put a layer of
soap redaces and becomes too s»rong, and the sunce tliickeus as well as re-
duces. This is the best way of wanning Turtle, or Mock Turtle Soup, — as
the thick part is always at tlic bottom, and this method prevents it from
hurniug, and keeps it always good." — Ude's Cookery, page 18.
MADE DISHES, 8CC. 399
Potatoes at the bottom of your stewpan, then a couple
of Chops and some of the Onions ; then a^ain potatoes,
and so on till the pan is quite full, — a small spoonful
of white pepper, and about one and a half of salt, and
three gills of broth or gravy ; cover all very close in,
so as to prevent the steam from getting out, and let
them stew two hours on a very slow fire. A small slice
of ham is a great addition to this dish. The Cook will
be the best judge when it is done, as a great deal
depends on the fire you have.
N.B. Great Care must be taken not to let it burn,
and that it does not do too fast.
To make an Irish Stexv, or Hunter's Pie.
Take part of a Neck of Mutton, cut it into chops,
season it well, put it into a stewpan, let it brase for
half an hour, take two dozen of potatoes, boil them,
mash them, and season them, butter your mould, and
hne it with the potatoes, put in the Mutton, bake it for
half an hour, then it will be done, cut a hole in the top
and add some good gravy to it
N.B. The above is the contribution of Mr. Morrison
of the Leinster Hotel, Dublin.
A good Scotch Haggles. — (No, 488*.)
Make the haggies-bag perfectly clean ; parboil the
draught, boil the liver very well, so as it will grate ;
dry the meal before the fire ; mince the draught and a
pretty large piece of beef very small ; grate about half
of the hver ; mince plenty of the suet and some onions
small ; mix all these materials very well together, w^ith
a handful or two of the dried meal ; spread them on
the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed
spices; take any of the scraps of beef that is left from
mincing, and some of the water that boiled the draught,
and make a'jout a choppin {i. e. a quart) of good stock
of it; then put all the haggies meat into the bag, and
that broth in it; then sew up the bag; but be sure to
400 MADE DISHES, SCC.
put out all the wind before you sew it quite close. If
you thiuk the bag is tliin, you may put it in a cloth.
If it is a large haggies, it will take at least two hours
boiling.
N.B. The above we copied verbathn from Mrs.
Maciver, a cdtiratcd Cukdomun Professor of the Cu-
linary art, uho taught and published a book of Co<^kcrij at
Edinburgh, A.D. IISI.
Minced Collops.
" This is a favourite Scotch dUh, — few families are
without it, — it keeps well, and is always ready to make
an extra dish.
*' Take Beef, and chop and mince it very small ; to
which add some salt and pepper. Put this, in its raw
state, into small jars, and pour on the top some clarified
butter. When intended for use, \m\. the clarified butter
into a frvin^^pan, and slice some onions into tlie pan,
and frv them. Add a little water to it, and then put
in the minced meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes
it will be fit to serve up." — The Hon. Jon\ Cociirane's
Scatnans Guide, Svo. 1797. p. 4'2.
Harrico* Mutton, a la Moosi-Aye. — (Xo. 489.)
Cut the best end of a Neck or Loin of Mutton that
has been kept till tender, into Chops of equal thick-
ness, one rib to each ; (" Ics bons homines dc bouche dc
Paris" cut two chops to one bone, but it is more con-
venient to help when there is only one, two at a time is
too large a dose for John Bull,) trim off most of the Fat,
and the lower end of the chine bone, and scrape it
clean ; — flatten them with a cleaver, and lay them in
a Stewpan, with an ounce of Butter and a large Onion ;
--- set it over a amartfire : if your fire is not sharp, the
chops will be done before they are coloured : the inten-
tion of flying them is merely to give litem a bromiing.
* Probably a contractioii of " Ilaut Ragoiit."
MADE DISHES, &C. 401
While the Chops are browning, peel and boil a couple
of dozen of young button Onions in about three pints of
water for about 15 or 20 minutes, set them by, — and
pour off the liquor they were boiled in into the stewpan
with the chops, and add as much boiling water as will
cover them, remove the scum as it rises, and then put
in six ounces of Carrots, and eight ounces of Turnips
peeled and cut into shces, or shaped into balls about
as big as a nutmeg, put in the Carrots twenty minutes
before the Turnips, be careful they are not stewed toofiist
or too much, — so take out one of the Chops with a fish
slice, and try it : when they are tender, w^hich will be
in about an hour and a half, then pass the gravy through
a sieve into a basin, skim off the fat, and set the meat
and vegetables by the fire to keep hot, and pour some
boiling water over the button Onions to warm them,
and then put them round the Dish, the last thing.
Thicken the Gravy by putting an ounce of Butter
into a Stewpan ; vvhen it is melted, stir in as much
Flour as will stiffen it ; pour the gravy to it by degrees,
stir together till it boils ; strain it through a fine sieve
or tammis into a stewpan, and let it simmer gently
while you dish up the Meat and Vegetables ; lay the
chops round a dish, put the Vegetables in the middle,
and pour the thickened gravy over. Some put in
Capers, &c., minced Gherkins, &c.
Obs. — Rump steaks. Veal cutlets, and Beef
TAILS, make excellent dishes dressed in the like
manner.
Mutton Chops delicately Stexced, and good Mutton Broth.
(No. 490.)
Put the Chops into a stewpan with cold water enough
to cover them, and an Onion, — when it is coming to a
boil, skim it, cover the pan close, and set it over a very
slo-iV Fire till the Chops are tender, — if they have been
kept a proper time, they will take about three quarters
of an hour's very gentle simmering. Send up Turnips
402 MADE DISHES, 8CC.
with them, (No. 130), they may be boiled with the
chops, skim well, and then send all up in a deep dish,
with the Broth they were stewed in.
N.B. The Broth will make an Economist one, — and
the Meat another whcdesome and comfortable meal.
Shouldir of Lamb Grilled. — {^o. 491.)
Boil it, — score it in chequers about an inch square,
rub it over with the yolk of an c^j;, pepper and salt
it, strew it with bread-crumbs and dried parsley, or
sweet Herbs, or (No. 457 or 459), and Carbonado^ i. e.
Grill, i. e. Broil it over a clear fire, or put it in a Dutch
oven till it is a nice lijiht brown ; send up some
gravy with it, or make a sauce for it of flour and
water well mixed t();j;eth('r with an ounce of fresh but-
ter, a tablespf)onful of mushroom or walnut catsup,
and the juice of half a lemon. See also Grill Sauce
(No. 355.)
N.B. Breasts of Lamb are often done the same way,
and with Musliroom or Mutton sauce (No. 307.)
Lamb'.s Fry. — (No. 492.)
Fry it plain, or dip it in an egg well beaten on a
plate, and strew some fine stale bread crumbs over it ;
garnish with crisp parsley (No. 389.) For sauce
(No. 355;, or, (No. 356.)
Shin of Beef ' Stewed. — (No. 493.)
Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four
pieces, put it into a stewpan, and just cover it with
cold water, — when it simmers, skim it clean, — then
put iu a bundle of Sweet Herbs, a lar;^e Onion, a head
of Celery, a dozen berries of Black Pepper, and the
same of Allspice : — stew very gently over a slow fire
• The proveib says," Of all the Fowls of t lie Air, commeiirt me to the
Shin of Beek,— fur there's Marrow tor the master, — Meal for the mistress,
(iri«iie« for the Servants, and Boues for the Dogs."
MADE DISHES, &C. 403
till the Meat is tender, — this will take from about
Three hours and a half, to four and a half.
Take three Carrots, peel and cut them into small
squares; — peel and cut ready in small squares a couple
of Turnips, with a couple of dozen of small young round
silver Button Onions; boil them till tender, the Turnips
and Onions will be enough in about fifteen minutes, — -
the Carrots will require about twice as long — drain
them dry.
When the Beef is quite tender, take it out carefully
with a slice, and put it on a dish while you thicken a
pint and a half of the Gravy : to do this, mix three
tablespoonsful of flour with a teacupful of the beef
liquor; to make Soup of the rest of it, see (No. 238),
stir this thoroughly together till it boils, scum off the
Fat, strain it through a sieve, and put your vegetables in
to warm ; — Season with pepper, salt, and a wineglass of
Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), or Port wine, or both,
and pour it over the Beef.
Send up Wow Wow sauce (No. 328), in a boat,
N.B. Or, instead of sending up the Beef whole, cut
the meat into handsome pieces fit to help at table, and
lay it in the middle of the dish, with the Vegetables
and Sauce (which, if you flavour with (No. 455), you
may call " Beef Curry,") round it. A Leg of
Mutton is excellent dressed the same way, — equal to
" k Gigot de sept hcures^' so famous in the French kitchen.
Obs. — This Stew has every claim to the attention
of the Rational Epicure, being one of those in which
" Frugality," " Nourishment," '• and Pala-
TABLENESs," are most happily combined, — and you get
half a Gallon of excellent Broth into the bargain.
We advise the Mistress of the table, to call it " Ra-
gout Beef ;" this vrill ensure it being eaten with una-
nimous applause ; — the homely appellation of Shin of
Beef stewed J is enough to give your Genteel eater a
locked jaw.
" Remember, when the Judgment's weak, thu Prejudice is strong,"
404 MADE DISHES, &C.
Our Modem Epicures resemble the Ancient*, who
thoui^ht the dearest dish must be the most delicious :
" And think all Wisdom lies
" In being im pertinently iike."
Thus, they reckon Turtle and Punch, to be '* s/uTcnlif
fohe per shent" more inviting tlian Mock Turtle and
Good Malt Liquor, — however bad the fonner may be,
and however <jood the latter; — we wish these folks
could be made to understand, that the Sou[) for each,
and all the accompaniments, are precisely the same; —
there is this only diHerenee, the former is commonly
made with a •' STARRED TURTLE,'' (see Notes at the
foot of paire 288,) the latter with a " FATTED
CALF." ^^^ (Nos. 247, ;M3, and 343\)
Tile scarcity of tolerably good cooks, ceases to be
surprising, when we reflect how much more astonishing
is the ignorance of most of those who assume the
character of Scientific couUMANDSf, so extremely
ignorant of " the affairs of the Mouth," — they seem
hardly to " knon a Sheep s head from a Carrot,' and their
real pretensions to be profound Palaticians, are as
moderate, as the wine merchant's customer, whose
sagacity in the selection of Liquors, was only so ex-
quisite, that — he knew that Port wine was black, and
tiiat if he drank enough of it, it would make him
drunk.
• The remotest parts of the world were visited, and Earth, Air, and Occaa
ransacked to furnish the complicated delicacies of a Roman Supper.
" HuUlas tells us, that Pilyllus, who had a Hot tongue and a C'oW stomach,
in order to gr;ilify the latter without ofleuding the former, — made a bhcath for
Lis Tongue, so that he could swallow his potlii{:e scalding hot ; yea, I myself
have known a Shropshire GentleiHanof the like quality ! I"— See Dr. Moffbt
on Food, 4io. l655.
" In the refined extravagance of the tables of the great, where the Culinary
arts are pushed to excess, — Luxury becomes false to itself, and things arc
valued, n«jt as they are nutritious, or agreeable to the appetite, but in ])ro-
portion as they are rare, — out of season, — or costly." — Cadogan oiiGout,
avo. 1771, page 48.
1 " Cookery is an art, appreciated by only a very few individuals, and which
requires, in addition to a most studious and diligent application, no sinaHsbare
of iuiellecf, and the strictest sobriety and punctuality." — Preface to Uui's
Cookery, page vi.
MADE DISHES, &C. 405
Brisket of Beef Steiced. — (No. 494.)
This is prepared in exactly the same way as " Sovp
and BouilU:' See (Nos. 5, 238, or 493.)
Harrkot if Beef. — Q^o. 495.)
A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the
same Sauce of roots, &c., as we have directed for
harricot of mutton (No. 489), is a most excellent dish,
of very moderate expense.
Savoury Salt Beef Baked. — (^o. 496.)
The Tongue Side of a round of Beef is the best bit
for this purpose; if it weighs fifteen pounds let it hang
two or three days ; then take three ounces of Saltpetre,
one ounce of coarse Sugar, a quarter of an ounce of
Black pepper, and same of Allspice, (some add a quarter
of an ounce of Ginger, or (No. 457), and some minced
sweet and savoury Herbs (No. 459), and three quarters
of a pound of common Salt; incorporate these ingre-
dients by pounding them together in a mortar; then
take the bone out, and rub the Meat well with the
above mixture, turning it and rubbing it every day for
a fortnight.
When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of
water ; cover the meat with about three pounds of
mutton suet* shredded rather thick, and an onion or
two minced small ; cover the whole with a flour crust
to the top or brim of the pan, and let it be baked in a
moderate oven for about six hours, (or, just cover it
with water, and let it stew very gently for about five
hours, and when you send it to table, cover the top of
it with finely chopped Parsley.) If the Beef weighs
more, put a proportional addition of all the ingredients.
* This Suet is not to be wasted, — -when it comes from the oven, take *nt
the Beef, and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve, — let it stand till
it is cold,— then clarify the fat as directed in (No. 83), and it will do for
Frying, &c.
406 MADE PISHF.S, Sec.
The Gravy you will find a strons: Consomme excclfent
for Sauce or Soup, — or making Soy, or Browning, see
(No. 322), and being impregnated with Salt, will keep
several days.
This Joint should not be cut till it is Cold, — and than
with a sharp knife to prevent waste, and keep it even
and comely to the eye.
Obs. — I his is a most excellent way of preparing
and dressing Beef (No. 503), — and a savoury dish, for
Sandicic/ies, &c , — in moderate weather it will keep
good for a fortnight after it is dressed: it is one of the
most economical and elegant articles of ready dressed
keeping provisions ; deser\ing the particular attention
of those families who frequently have Accidental Cus-
tomers droppinc: in at Luncheon or Supper — to whom,
we recommend Morrison's Provisions, No. 3, Charlotte
Row, Mansion House. See Note at foot of page 288.
Ci'KKiF.s. — (No. 497.) see also (No. 249.)
Cut Fowls or Rabbits into joints ; put four ounces
of Butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, put in
the meat, and two Onions sliced ; let them be over a
smart fire till they are of a nice brown, then put in
half a pint of Broth ; let it simmer twenty minutes ;
put in a basin one tablespoonful of Curry Powder
(No. 455), one of Flour, and a teaspoonful of Salt ;
mix it smooth with a little cold water, put it in the
stewpan, and shake it well about till it boils ; let it
simmer twenty minutes longer; just before it is dished
up, squeeze in the juice of half a Lemon, add one good
tablespoonful of melted Butter, and it is ready.
Obs. — Curry is made also with Sueetbreads —
Breast of Veal — Veal Cutlets — Lamb — Mutton or Park-
Chaps — LoUter — Turbot — Soles — Eels — Oysters,
&c. prepared as above, or enveloped in (No. 348.)
Ols^ — This is a very savoury, nourishing, anel eco-
nomical dish, and a valuable variety at a moderate
table. See Wow Wow Sauce, (No. 328.)
MADE DISHES, Sec. 407
Ste-xed Rwvp Steak. — (No. 500.)
For two pounds of Steaks, if you fear they will not
eat tender, beat them well, — line the bottom of a three
quart Stewpan with slices of fattish Ham, or Bacon,
and on this lay the Steaks, (which should be nicely
trimmed and shaped ;) just cover them with water, a
dozen corns of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper,
the red part of a Carrot, a little bundle of Savory and
Parsley, a large Onion with half a dozen Cloves stuck
in it, and a head of Celery ; cover them close, and let
them simmer gently about an hour and a half, according
to their thickness ; if they are thin Steaks, an hour
may be enough. ; take care the Meat does not go to rags
by doing too f ant ^ or too much.
When the Steaks are tender, take them up, flour
them, and fry them, only just to brown them^ in an
ounce of Butter; make some thickening with an ounce
of Butter and two tablespoonsful of Flour; put it into
your sauce ; stir it well together with a wooden spoon,
adding thereto a tablespoonful of Claret, or Port wine,
the same of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), half a tea-
spoonful of Salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of
ground Black Pepper : dish your Steaks, and strain
your Sauce to them.
Veal Cutlets or Mutton Chops may be done
the same way, or as Veal Olives (No. 518.)
Obs, — This is generally a second course dish, and
is usually made too rich, — and only fit to re-excite
an Appetite already satiated. Our endeavour is to
combine agreeable savouriness with substantial nou-
rishment; those who wish to enrich our Receipt may
easily add Mushrooms, — Wine, — Anchovy, — Cay-
enne,— Bay leaves, &c.
Another xcay of Stewing Rujnp Steaks,
The Rump Steaks must be a little thicker than for
408 MADE DISHES, Sec.
broiling;, — but ht them be all the same thickness, or some
will be done too little, and others too much.
Put an ounce of Butter into a stewpan, with two
Onions ; when the Butter is melted, lay in the Rump
Steaks, let them stand over a slow fire for five minutes,
then turn them, and let the other side of them fry five
minutes longer. Have ready boiled a pint of Button
Onions ; they will take from half an hour to an hour ;
put the liquor they were boiled m to the Steaks; if
there is not enoup^h of it to cover them, add broth,
or boiling water, to make up enough for that purpose,
with a dozen corns of Black Pepper and a little Salt,
and let them simmer very genfli/ for about an hour and
a half, and then strain off as much of the liquor (about
a pint and a half) as you think will make the sauce.
Put two ounces of Butter into a stewpan ; when it is
melted, stir in as much Flour as will make it into a
stift' paste, add the liquor by degrees, let it boil up for
fifteen minutes; skim it, and strain it; serve up the
Steaks with the Onions round the dish, and pour the
Gravy over.
UIjs. — Rump Steaks are in best condition from
Michaelmas to Lady-day. To ensure their bekig tender,
give the Butcher thne or Jour dai/s' notice of j/our ivish
for them.
Broiled Rump Steak \iith Onion Graxy. — (No. 501.)
Sec also (No. 299.)
Peel and slice two large Onions ; put them into a
quart stewpan with two tablespoonsful of w^ater : cover
the stewpan close, and set it on a slow fire till the
water has boiled away, and the Onions have got a
little browned, — then add half a pint of good Broth*,
• If you have no Broth, — put in half a pint of water, tliickcn it as in the
above receipt, and just before you give it liie last boil up, add to it a large
spoonful of Mushroom Catsup, and, if you like, the same quantity of Port
MADE DISHES, &C. 409
•and boil the Onions till they are tender; strain the
Broth from them, and chop them very fine; thicken
the Broth with Flour and Butter, and season it with
Mushro^^m Catsup, and pepper and salt; put the
Onion i Uo it, and let it boil gently for five minutes,
and pour it over a Broiled Rump Steak. If, instead
of Brot ., you use good Beef Gravy, it will be super-
lative.
*** dtexved Cucumber (No. 135), is another agreeable
accompo'/ment to Ruynp Steaks.
ALAMODE BEEF, or VEAL. — (No. 502.)
In the hundred and eighty volumes on Cookery, (see
page 24 of this work,) we patiently pioneered through,
before we encountered the tremendous labour and ex-
pense Qi proving the Receipts of our predecessors, —
and set about recording these results of our own Expe-
riments, — we could not find one Receipt that approxi-
mated tc my thing like an accurate description of the
way in whioli this excellent dish is actually dressed in the
best Alain' :.de Beef Shops ; — from whence, of course,
it was iu'possible to obtain any information : — how-
ever, after ail, the whole of the secret seems to be the
thickenmg the gravy of Beef that has been very
doxuly* ste^'^ed, and flavouring it with Bay leaves and
Allspice.
Take about eleven pounds of the Mouse-Buttock, — or
Clod of Beef. — or a Blade Bone, — or the Sticking piece,
or the like weight of the Breast of Veal ; cut it into
pieces of three or four ounces each ; put two or three
ounces of B'l^ef drippings, and a couple of large Onions,
into a large deep stewpan ; as soon as it is quite hot,
* " It mast be allowed to muse gently for several boms, inaccessible to
tbe ambient air, and on the even and persevering heal of charcoal in the
furnace or stovt. After having lulled itself in its own exudations, and the
dissolution of its :.i xiliaries, it may appear at table with a powerful claim to
approbation."— XiuELLA Cibaria, p. 47.
T
410 MADE DISHES, &C.
flour the Meat, put it into the stewpan, keep stirring
it with a wooden spoon ; when it has been on about
ten minutes, dredge it with flour, and keep doing so
till you have stirred in as much as you think will
thicken it, then cover it with boiling- water, (it will
take about a gallon,) adding it by degrees and stirring
it together ; skim it when it boils, and then put in
one drachm of ground Black Pepper, two of Allspice,
and four Bay leaves ; set the pan by the side of the
tire, or at a distance over it, and let it stew lery alowly
for al)out three hours; when you find the meat suffi-
ciently tender, put it into a tureen, and it is ready
for table.
It is customary to send up with it a nice Sala^ ;
see (No. 372 )
*«• Tu the above nminj Cooks add Cn am pi onions ;
hut as these arc almost alicays decai/cd, and ojten of dele-
terious quality, they are better left out, — and indeed the
Bay Lr, aves det,erve the i>ame jirohihition.
Obs. — Here is a savoury and substantial meal,
almost as cheap as the Egg-Broth of the Miser, — who
fed his Valet with the water in which his Egg was
boiled, — or as the '* Potage a la I'ierre, a la Soldat*,'*
mentioned by Giles Rose in the 4th page of his dedi-
cation of the *' TEllFECT SCHOOL OF INSTRUCTION
FOR THE OFFICERS OF THE MOUTH," 1 8mO. LoudoU,
1682. " Two Soldiers were minded to have a Soup;
the first of them coming into a house, and asking for
all tilings necessary for the making of one, was as soon
told that he could have none of those things there,
whereupon he went away ; — the other, coming in
• '" C'lSf la Soupe,' says one of the best of proverbs, * qui fait le Soldat.'
' It is Iht Soup that makes the SoUlier.' I.xcellciU as om troops are in the
titid, iheie cannot be a more unqiKhtionable fact, than their immense infe-
riority to the French in the business of Cookeiy. J I.e En^lith soirlier lay*
his piece of ration beef at once on tiie coals, by wliicli means, the one and
the belter half is lost, — and the other burnt to a cinder. Whereas six
French troopers fling their messes into the same pot, and extract a delicioiii
Isoap, ten times moie nutritious than the simple l<bti could ever be." —
bLACKwoou's Ldinbur^h Magazine, vol. vii. p. 66a.
MADE DISHES, &C. 411
with a Stone in his knapsack, asked only for a Pot to
boil his stone in, that he might make a dish of broth
of it for his Supper, which was quickly granted him ;
when the Stone had boiled a little while, he asked for
a small piece of Meat or Bacon, and a few Herbs and
Roots, &c. just merely to give it a bit of a flavour; till,
by little and little, he got all things requisite, and so
made an excellent Pottage of his Stone." — See 0b6. to
(No. 493.)
s. d.
Onions, Pepper, Allspice, and Bay leaves. . . . 0 3
11 pounds of tiiick flanlc Beef 7 4
Made Seven Quarts .....7 7
i. e. Thirteen Pence per Quart.
To Pot Beef, — Veal, — Game, or Poultry, &c.
(No. 503.)
Take three pounds of lean Gravy Beef, rub it well
with an ounce of Saltpetre, and then a handful of
common Salt; let it lie in Salt about three days,
rubbing it well each day, then put it into an earthen
pan, or stone jar that will just hold it, cover it with
the skin and fat that you cut off, and pour in half a
pint of water; cover it close with paste, and set it in a
very slow oven for about four hours ; — or prepare it as
directed in (No. 496.)
When it comes from the Oven, drain the gravy from
it into a basin, pick out the gristles and the skins,
mince it fine, moisten it with a little of the Gravy you
poured from the Meat, which is a very strong Cunsommt
(but rather salt), and it will make excellent Pease
Soup, or Browning, see (No. 322), pound the meat
patiently and thoroughly in a mortar with some fresh
Butter*, till it is a fine paste, (to make Potted Meat
• Tlie less Gravy or Butter, and the more beating, the hetter wiil be
your Potted Beef, if you wish it to keep ; — if for immediate eating, you may
put in a larger proportion of gravy or butter, as the meat will pound easier,
3ud look and taste more mellow.
t2
412 MADE DlSrtES, &C.
smooth — there is nothin<^ equal to plenty of Elbow
grease) — seasoning it (by degrees as you are beating
it) with a little Black Pepper and Allspice, — or Cloves
pounded, — or Mace, — or grated Nutmeg.
Put it in pots, press it down as close as possible,
and cover it a quarter of an inch thick with Clarified
Butter; to prepare which, see receipt (No. 259.) Keep
it in a dry place.
Ohs. — You may mince a little Ham or Bacon, — or
an Anchovy, — Sweet or Savoury Herbs, — or a Shal-
lot, and a little Tarra2:on, — Chervil, — or Burnet, (!vc.,
and pound them with the Meat, with a glass of Wine,
or some Mustard, or Torcemeat (No. 37(), or 378, and
399*, &€.) ; if you wish to have it Dcvi/ish savoury,
add Ragout Pomlcr (No. 457), C///T// Ponder (No. 455),
or Zest (No. 255), and moisten it with Mushroom
Catsup (No. 439), or Essence of Anclioxy (No. 433), or
Tincture of Allspice (No. 413), or Essence of Turtle
(No. 343*")
Or, — (No. 503*.)
it is a very agreeable and economical way of using
the remains of Game, or Poultry, or a large joint of
fjither roasted or boiled Beef, Veal, Ham, or Tongue,
<l'c. to mince it, with some of the Fat, (or moisten it
with a little Butter, or (No. 439), &c.) and beat it
in a mortar with the seasoning, &c., as in the former
Receipt.
When either the Teeth or Stomach are extremely
feeble, especial care must be taken to keep Meat till it
is tender — before it is cooked — or call in the aid of
those excellent helps to bad teeth — the Pestle and
Mortar.— AnA sec (Nos. 10, 18, 87, 89, 175, 178;
from 185 to 250, 502, 542 — and especially 503.)
Or dress in the usual w^ay whatever is best liked —
mince it, put it into a mortar, and pound it with a little
Broth or melted Butter, — Vegetable, — Herb, — Spice,
MADE DISHES, &C. 413
— Zest, (No. 255), &c., according to the taste, &c. of
the Eater. The business of the Stomach is thus very
materially facilitated.
" Flesh in small quantities, bruised to a pulp^ may
be very advantageously used in fevers attended' with
debility." — Darwin's Zoonomia, vol. ii. p. 400.
" Mincing or Founding Meat — saveth the grinding of
the Teeth ; and therefore (no doubt) is more nourishing,
especially in Age, — or to them that have weak teeth ;
but butter is not proper for weak bodies, — and there-
fore, moisten it in pounding with a little Claret wine,
and a very little Cinnamon or Nutmeg." — Lord Bacon ;
Natural History, Century I. 54.
Obs. — Meat that has been boiled down for Gravies,
&c. see (No. 185*), and (No. 252), (which has here-
tofore been considered the perquisite of the Cat), and
is completely drained of all its succulence, beat in a
mortar with Salt, and a little ground Black Pepper
and Allspice, as directed in the foregoing Receipt,
and it will make as good Potted Beef, as Meat that
has been baked till its moisture is entirely extracted,
which it must be, or it will not keep two days.
Mem. — Meat that has not been previously salted,
will not keep so long as that which has.
Sandwiches, — (No. 504.)
Properly prepared, are an elegant and convenient
Luncheon or Supper, — but have got out of Fashion —
from the bad manner in which they are commonly
made : to cut the Bread neatly with a sharp knife,
seems to be considered the only essential, and the
lining is composed of any ofFal odds and ends — that
cannot be sent to table in any other form.
Whatever is used must be carefully trimmed from
every bit of Skin, Gristle, &c. — and nothing introduced
but what you are absolutely certain will be acceptable
to the Mouth.
414
MADE DISHES, &C.
Materials for making Sandwichf.s.
Cold Meal, or PoaUry.
Potted diiio (No. 503.)
Savoury ditto (No. 496.)
Ditto Lobster (No. 178), or Shrimp
(No. 175.)
Ditto Cheese ("No. 54C.)
Ditto, or grated Mam (No. 500.)
Ditto, or ;;raled I oiigue.
Anchovy (Ni^s. 434 and 435.)
German Sansafiie.
Cold Pork, ditto (No. 87.)
llaid Fi;s.s p.-iindcd with a lift!?
Butter and C hieoe
Gratfd n,«m. or lU.t.
\arioiis Forcemeats, &c. (No. .373.,
&c.
Curr> Powder, Zest, Mustard, Pepper
and S.ili, are a<ldcd occasioualiy.
Meat Cakes. — {"So. 504*.)
If you have any cold Meat, Game, or Poultry, (if
under-done all the better), mince it fine, with a little
fat bacon or ham, or an anchovy ; season it with a
little popper and salt; mix well, and make it into small
cakes three inches long-, half as wide, and half an inch
thick : fry these a lip;lit brown, and serve them with
good j^ravy ; or put it into a mould and boil or bake it.
N.B. Bread crumbs, hard yolks of F.ggs, Onions,
Sweet herbs. Savoury Spices, Zest, or Curry Powder,
or any of the Forcemeats, see (No. 373 to 382.)
Fish Cakes for Maigrc Days, may be made in like
manner.
Bubble and Squeak, or fried Beef and Cabbage .— (No. 505.
" When 'mid't the frying Pan. in accents savage.
The Beef so surly, quarrels with the Cabbage."
D V. Minor.
MADE DISHES, &C. 415
For this, as for a Hash, select those parts of the
Joint that have been least done; — it is generalU' made
with slices of cold boiled salted Beef, sprinkled with a
little Pepper, and just lightly browned with a bit of
Butter in a fryingpan : if it is fried too imich it will be
hard.
Boil a Cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it
small; take the Beef out of the frying-pan, and lay the
Cabbage in it ; sprinkle a little pepper and salt over
it ; keep the pan moving over the fire for a few minutes ;
lay the Cabbage in the middle of a dish, and the Meat
round it.
For Sauce, see (No. 356), or (No. 328.)
Hashed Beef and Roast Beef Bones Broiled. — (No. 506.)
To hash Beef, see Receipt (Nos. 484, 5, and 6),
<Nos. 360, 484, and 486.)
The best part to hash is the Fillet or Inside of the
Sirloin, and the good housewife will always endeavour
to preserve it entire for this purpose. See Obs. to
(No. 19), and Mock Hare (No. 67*.)
Roast Beef Bones furnish a very relishing Luncheon,
or Supper, prepared in the following manner, with
Poached Eggs (No. 546), or Fried Eggs (No. 545),
or Mashed Potatoes (No. 106), as accompaniments.
Divide the Bones, leaving good pickings of meat
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